Igor has spent months exploring every inch of Iceland over several years. He specializes in the Highlands, F-roads, hiking, hot springs, and less touristy places. He loves Iceland and keeps coming back.
Igor has spent months exploring every inch of Iceland over several years. He specializes in the Highlands, F-roads, hiking, hot springs, and less touristy places. He loves Iceland and keeps coming back.
We wrote a short list of most beautiful winter places in Eastfjords. East Iceland is much less visited compared to the most touristy south. The difference is even more pronounced in winter. You will be often totally alone at many beautiful spots in Eastfjords in winter.
The aim of this article is not to list all of the beautiful places. We rather want to show you how some of our most favorite places in Iceland look like in winter. You can then decide for yourself, whether you want to visit a specific place or not, or whether you want to visit the place in summer or in winter, or at both times.
This post is part of our Winter Iceland articles series:
If you catch a nice day without fog, stopping at Vestrahorn and even paying the entrance fee can be worth the nice picturesque views. Not on a foggy day, though. When we visited Vestrahorn at the end of February, the entire Vestrahorn was covered in fog. It didn’t make any sense to visit it in this case, so we rather stopped nearby and enjoyed the company of beautiful horses. This is how Vestrahorn looked on a sunny day in summer instead.
Skútafoss waterfall
Skútafoss in winter
One of the waterfalls accessible also in winter is Skútafoss. You have to hike for about 20 minutes from the little (in winter often frozen) car park to reach Skútafoss. The trail was unclear at times, especially when covered by snow, ice or both. Bear this in mind. And don’t step on the moss. It will die.
Djúpavogskörin hot spring
Djúpavogskörin hot spring in winter
One of our favorite hot springs to visit in winter is Djúpavogskörin. Why? Because in winter, Djúpavogskörin is hot just right. In summer, though, it was simply too hot to be pleasant. Oftentimes, you’re also gonna be alone at Djúpavogskörin. Going for hot springs makes also perfect sense during foggy weather, as you can see from our pictures 🙂
Djúpavogskörin in winter
Update: Djúpavogskörin was bit working from April 2022 until October 2022 but now it seems to be working again. Please check the signs onsite and beware of the potentially unstable water temperature.
Djúpivogur
Djúpivogur in winter
We usually do not recommend to visit Icelandic cities and villages much in summer, because this is often where the most tourists concentrate at, due to restaurants, infrastructure, etc. Winter is a bit different, however. Number of visitors is much lower and they mostly focus only on the south and on areas close to Reykjavik. The further you go away from Reykjavik, the more “alone” you will feel.
Some of the Icelandic villages and cities away from the south actually often look like they are deserted in winter. This was the case when we visited Djúpivogur in February. Almost nobody was there, just a few locals and us.
Djúpivogur is a cute little coastal town definitely worth making a short coffee or lunch stop. Just be prepared all the restaurants and cafes may be closed in winter 🙂 Don’t rely on opening hours from Google Maps. In winter everything is different in Iceland and many sites, including restaurants and cafes have different hours or are closed entirely.
Fáskrúðsfjörður
Winter Fáskrúðsfjörður
Fáskrúðsfjörður is our personal favorite when it comes to Eastfjords. It’s not so overhyped and touristy as Seyðisfjörður and it’s still so beautiful! We simply love the view of this fjord and always admire the reflection of nearby mountains in the fjord on a nice day. Don’t forget to visit Café Sumarlina for the (not very Icelandic) curry fish soup and book your night at the guesthouse Elinar and Helgu with the best views over the fjord!
Klifbrekufoss is often inaccessible in winter, due to too much snow on the road 943 leading there. Always watch carefully www.road.is, once the road turns grey/red/black, stay away from the road, unless you have a true monster super jeep, like Land Rover Super Defender. Even with such a car, we highly recommend having a local Icelandic company to help if any emergency occurs.
Seyðisfjörður
Winter road from Seyðisfjörður to Vestdalur hike trailhead
Seyðisfjörður is popular for a reason. Not only is it a harbor for large cruise ships, it’s also one of the most beautiful fjords in Iceland, if not the most beautiful one. We more than just recommend stopping in Seydsfjordur and spending a half-day, day or even more in here. You won’t regret it, trust me.
In winter, though, it’s sometimes difficult to get to Seyðisfjörður. It’s located down in the fjord, behind the mountain. This means you have to drive a pretty tricky, steep and zig-zagged mountain pass to get there. In summer it’s easy, but in winter, especially when there’s strong wind and a lot of snow, it may be an adventurous drive. The road to Seyðisfjörður is being ploughed several times a day. This, however, doesn’t stop snow from falling on the road when the plough isn’t there.
Road to Seyðisfjörður in winter
This is exactly what happened to us when we drove to Seyðisfjörður. Close to the highest point of the mountain pass, a strong wind started to blow and it made a huge pile of snow fall on the road from the nearby hill, right in front of our car. The road suddenly became impassable, because of 50cm / 20inches of snow, even for our “4wd” Dacia Duster. This was most likely the scariest moment of our trip, because we were simply stuck up at the mountain pass, with snow falling, wind blowing and no help nearby.
Luckily enough, an Icelander with a jeep paved the way into the snow wall from the other direction with his jeep. This way he created firmer tracks we could try to follow. That’s exactly what we did and with our hearts beating (and with some luck) we were able to pass the snow pile. This is just a little example of how tricky the road may get in Iceland, and all of a sudden.
Seyðisfjörður in winter
Nevertheless, once you finally get to Seyðisfjörður, you may quickly fall in love with this Icelandic city. On one hand, there are countless beautiful views everywhere around you and on the other hand there are many great restaurants and fancy accommodations. And also several beautiful hikes nearby!
Vestdalur hike
Vestdalur hike parking. Seydisfjordur in the background.
One of the most beautiful, yet not much known hikes is called Vestdalur. Vestdalur hike starts as a quiet, not well visible detour up the mountains located right behind Seyðisfjörður, next to northwestern part of the fjord. The name Vestdalur comes from the nearby river Vestdalsá and a lake Vestdalsvatn, where this hiking trail actually leads. Vestdalur is then a „Vestdal“ valley.
The trail to Vestdalur we wanted to take, but took just the very beginning.
While a hike to Vestdalur is an easy summer hike, things get different in winter, as is often the case in Iceland. Why? Because everything may be covered by a lot of snow and ice. Unsurprisingly, exactly this happened when we tried to hike Vestdalur in the beginning of March. Trail was hardly visible, very slippery and didn’t seem very safe to follow.
There are 2 different trailheads where you may begin the Vestdalur hike – the western and the eastern trailhead. The main advantage of an eastern trailhead is the little car park right next to it, and also a beautiful Vestdalsfossar waterfall along the way. That’s why we chose the eastern trail.
Views from the Vestdalur hike in winter
We left our car on a little car park right next to the fjord. There’s a little, hardly visible, signpost pointing to “Vestdalur” on a western side of the road. This is how we knew where to stop and where to leave our car. We (wrongly) didn’t have any spikes on our shoes, so we struggled basically from the beginning of the usually pretty easy hike. There were some stairs built for support, which definitely helped.
With every additional step leading upwards, though, the views over Seyðisfjörður get only better and better. Thus, no matter how far you get we definitely recommend at least taking a short walk by the beginning of Vestdalur trail to enjoy these beautiful views. We were alone on the hike. Just a few minutes into the hike, you will run into a picturesque Vestdalsfossar waterfall.
Friends next door at farm close to Vestdalur
That being said, soon after firstly seeing Vestdalsfossar we reached the point where the snow was simply too deep and the hill to climb too steep. Moreover, we couldn’t see the trail at all. This was the point where we simply admired the views a bit and rather turned back. We recommend you do the same at any hike where you don’t feel comfortable to continue, because Icelandic winter hikes may be very tricky and dangerous.
Vestdalur hike then actually continues a quite long way into the valley, along the Vestdalsá river, but views over Seyðisfjörður will soon disappear, because you will get more deeply into the valley. The final destination of the Vestdalur hike is the Vestdalsvatn lake, however we do not recommend hiking there in winter, because the trail is often inaccessible and may be dangerous to follow. We recommend doing what we did – start the hike, enjoy the views and continue until you feel comfortable to do so, and then turn back.
Vök baths
Vök Baths hot spa
After a day of exploring Eastfjords, we went for a relaxing evening at Vök baths. We were lucky to catch a beautiful sunset there. Vök baths are modern Icelandic hot spring SPAs with entrance fee, definitely worth visiting, though. At least in winter. We prefer going for SPAs more in winter, when it’s less comfortable and more difficult getting to wild hot springs.
Vök baths have several different hot pools. Large enough to accommodate 100+visitors. There were around 30 of them at the time of our visit in the beginning of March. There’s of course a pool bar and actually also a cold lake right next to hot pools. Those who dare may switch between hot pools and an ice-cold lake as often as they wish 😉
Hengifoss waterfall
Winter Hengifoss
A famous Hengifoss waterfall is accessible also in winter. There’s a huge car park where you may leave your car even in winter. Beware, though, the trail to Hengifoss may be covered with snow and ice in winter and thus be pretty slippery and not that easy to follow. On a windy and/or foggy they, the hike isn’t very pleasant.
Hengifoss also may or may not be frozen, this depends on the season. The same applies to its orange colors, which may not be visible when covered by snow and ice. This is usually the case anywhere from November to March. We rather recommend visiting Hengifoss outside of the winter months due to above mentioned reasons.
Borgarfjörður Eystri
Winter Borgarfjörður eystri
Borgarfjörður Eystri is accessible also in winter, because the road is being ploughed few times a day. To get to Borgarfjörður Eystri you have to drive through the mountain pass, similarly to Seyðisfjörður. The mountain pass leading to Borgarfjörður Eystri may become a bit scary and dangerous to drive during snow and wind, so try to avoid such times.
Borgarfjörður Eystri is a hikers’ and puffin lovers’ paradise in summer and is also a very popular place in Eastfjords to visit with many tourists heading there. In winter, this is very very different. Firstly, majority of hiking trails are inaccessible due to snow and ice (such as Stórurð for example). Secondly, there are no puffins in winter. Thirdly, most of the accommodations and restaurants are closed.
We visited Borgarfjörður Eystri in the beginning of March and the place resembled a ghost town to us. This is both good and bad, depends what you’re looking for 🙂 On one hand, you had the town all for yourself. On the other hand, there’s not much to do in Borgarfjörður Eystri in winter.
We wrote a short list of places we consider the most beautiful winter places in South Iceland.
South Iceland is undoubtedly the most touristy region, but for a reason. There are plenty of amazingly beautiful places, with most of them being well accessible also in winter. The aim of this article is not to list all of the beautiful places. We rather want to show you how some of our most favorite places in Iceland look like in winter. You can then decide for yourself, whether you want to visit a specific place or not, or whether you want to visit the place in summer or in winter, or at both times.
This post is part of our Winter Iceland articles series:
Reykjadalur in winter is accessible during good weather and with proper winter hiking gear, see below.
Views from the Reykjadalur hike in winter
Hike to Reykjadalur hot river is a very easy hike in summer. In winter it’s still easy, but snow and ice complicate it a little bit. I admit we had underestimated hiking Reykjadalur in winter, because we used just regular hiking shoes. And that was a mistake. Definitely bring at least little spikes for your shoes. Hiking trails to Reykjadalur in winter are all icy and slippery and thus may be even dangerous if you fall.
The most slippery part on the right with a steep fall to the left. In reality this was much more scary than in the picture.
Apart from the icy and slippery trails, hiking to Reykjadalur in winter is a nice and pleasant hike, with a hot river in the end as a reward. A winter hike to Reykjadalur is especially beautiful on a nice sunny day. In case of strong winds and/or stronger rain/snow, we don’t recommend doing the hike, nor any other hike longer than just a few minutes.
It took us roughly 3-4 hours to complete a winter Reykjadalur hot river hike, which is naturally considerably longer compared to summer. We’ve already explained in our Iceland in Winter – What you need to know article that you should prepare for considerably longer and tougher hikes in winter compared to summer.
Kerid crater in winter is a nice short stop, though we think it’s nicer in summer.
Hrunalaug hot spring
Hrunalaug in winter
Hrunalaug in winter is probably are most favorite winter hot spring in Iceland. Most of the time it’s easy to get to Hrunalaug by car even in winter and the surroundings of winter Hrunalaug are simply amazing! Moreover, there are usually considerably less visitors compared to summer. Water in Hrunalaug is pleasantly hot also in winter, which is not always the case with Icelandic hot springs in winter. We write more about Hrunalaug in our List of all Hot Springs in Iceland.
Seljalandsfoss in winter is touristy as well, but for a good reason. In spite of tourists, Seljalandsfoss is one of our favorite Icelandic waterfalls in winter. Pretty often, a rainbow appears over winter Seljalandsfoss and the waterfall itself is simply picturesque in winter.
If you are visiting Seljalandsfoss, definitely go see also Gljúfrabúi in winter, a “hidden” waterfall just a few minutes of walk from Seljalandsfoss. Gljúfrabúi in winter is easily accessible and comparably, if not more, beautiful compared to summer.
Nauthuságil waterfall in winter is unfortunately not accessible for most of the time, due to snow.
Hiking trail to Nauthuságil waterfall in winter
Nauthuságil waterfall is in our opinion one of the most amazing Icelandic waterfalls in summer. Especially if you include in the ranking also a little adventurous hike to reach Nauthuságil. That being said, we tried to visit Nauthuságil also in winter, but it wasn’t possible. Nauthuságil in winter is inaccessible, once the first real snow settles down. The gorge leading to Nauthuságil is just full of snow and impassable.
Skógafoss in winter is well accessible and totally worth the visit. Skógafoss definitely belongs to the most beautiful winter waterfalls in Iceland. We stopped at Skógafoss on a day with strong winds and clear skies. We were lucky to see the rainbow at Skógafoss, which occurs quite often on a sunny day, so be sure to go and see it too.
Skógafoss with tourists cut out of the picture
There are stairs leading above Skógafoss, which are very slippery when covered with snow. Many visitors were struggling when climbing up and down the stairs. Some of them even wore sneakers and jeans – totally inappropriate shoes and clothes for Iceland – see section of our article How to dress properly for Iceland in winter. These stairs are another example of a place where shoe spikes come pretty handy.
The waterfall way next to Skógafoss in a Fimmvörðuháls direction in winter
One of the most beautiful parts of the legendary Fimmvörðuháls hike (summer only) is called the waterfall way and begins exactly at Skógafoss. Is it possible to hike the waterfall way in winter? Yes, it is, on a nice day and with proper winter clothes and shoe spikes. The waterfall way in winter is accessible for visitors but much harder to visit compared to an easy summer hike.
We attempted to hike the waterfall way in February on a partially sunny day with some strong winds and we didn’t succeed. The wind was simply too strong making the hike too dangerous. We decided to stop and turn back after the first few hundreds if meters, because at times we felt like falling and not moving at all due to the strong wind. Additionally, we also made a mistake of not bringing shoe spikes, which made the waterfall way in winter impossible to pass.
Kvernufoss in winter is well accessible and we highly recommend a visit! Kvernufoss undoubtedly belongs to the most amazing winter waterfalls in Iceland. We were lucky enough to be alone at Kvernufoss and enjoyed Kvernufoss in winter actually even more than in summer! A roundtrip took us roughly 45 minutes.
Reynisfjara beach can easily get crowded also in winter. This is one of the most touristy places in Iceland.
Reynisfjara beach, or the black beach in winter is also easily accessible in winter. Please take special care about the unexpected waves there, which may be deadly. Stay only where you see the dry ground.
Reynisdrangar beach
Horses at Reynisdrangar beach in Vik in winter
Reynisdrangar cliffs in Vik are a beautiful stop during a winter trip in Iceland. We were lucky to witness a horse photo-shoot during sunset at Reynisdrangar, one of the most picturesque moments in the area.
Fjaðrárgljúfur canyon in winter is easily accessible to visitors. Although we prefer a lush green “summer” look of Icelandic canyons compared to a winter white one, Fjaðrárgljúfur is undoubtedly nice also in winter.
Svartifoss waterfall in winter is easily accessible to visitors and totally worth stopping by. Svartifoss proudly belongs to the list of the top places to see in Iceland in winter. A hike to Svartifoss in winter will take you slightly longer due to snow, but on a nice day is very beautiful and pretty different compared to a summer one. A roundtrip took us roughly 75 minutes.
Want to hike to a glacier in Iceland without a guided tour? There are a few possibilities to actually do this. Just remember, you should never walk ON the glacier without the guide, because you can die easily. But, you can still hike close enough to glacier to see the glacier and admire it.
One of the best spots to see a glacier in winter in Iceland is Svínafellsjökull glacier. Svínafellsjökull is located very close to the ring road, thus it doesn’t take much time to get there, whether by walking or by car. There’s a road leading pretty close to the Svínafellsjökull glacier, but this road is usually covered by snow. We were able to drive roughly into the half of the road with Dacia Duster. Then the snow started to be thicker and wetter, so we rather decided to park our car on the side of the road and continue by walking.
Svínafellsjökull glacier in winter
Why go and see glaciers in Iceland in winter rather than in summer? The trick is, glacier colors are much much more beautiful in winter, compared to summer. Due to cold and ice, glaciers will shine with azure blue colors in winter, making them an amazing target for all photographers.
Diamond Beach and Jökulsárlón are great winter stops. As I explain above, glaciers and ice look even more impressive in winter with their unbelievably blue colors. We recommend a short stop at these, usually rather touristy places, anyway.
Ice Cave and Glacier Hike
Crystal Blue Ice Cave near Jökulsárlón
Seeing an ice cave in winter is one of the most beautiful things you can experience in Iceland. Ice Cave tour combined with a glacier hike was undoubtedly our favorite winter tour in Iceland. We decided to do a Crystal Blue Ice cave tour combined with a Glacier hike and we were absolutely happy with the choice. A glacier suitable for hiking is actually right next to ice caves, so it makes perfect sense to combine these tours into one day full of amazing Icelandic adventure.
We can highly recommend Local Guide of Vatnajökull as a top-notch tour provider for Ice cave tours, Glacier hike tours and combo tours. They have amazing guides and even more amazing tours! The tours are fairly easy, even the full-day combo tour, and everyone, at least slightly fit should be totally able to make it.
Glacier lagoon picnic stop
We started our full day combo tour in Jökulsárlón, where we were picked up by an Icelandic monster super jeep. The super jeep drove with us close to an ice cave and glacier area. There we got off the jeep and headed towards glacier with our guide. A guide chose carefully the path so that we were the only group there, away from any crowds. The glacier hike led to a hidden fairy-tale like part of the Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon, where you can’t get in any other way than by hiking the glacier.
After the picnic at the glacier lagoon we continued towards ice caves. Yes, ice caves, not just one ice cave! We started with a “hidden” dark blue ice cave, where we were again the only visitors. Then we continued towards an amazingly beautiful ice tunnel, hidden unbelievably under the ground. At that moment it started snowing, which actually made the entire experience even more magical.
Secret ice cave
Finally, we headed to the most famous, most beautiful, but unfortunately also the most crowded, crystal blue ice cave. This is the ice cave where everyone goes, because colors of this ice cave are simply the most impressive with out-of-this world crystal blue tones. A typical ice cave tours would take you only to this ice cave, that’s why westrongly recommend to take a combo ice cave + glacier tour. This way you can visit not only popular crystal blue ice cave, but also much more remote glacier lagoon and smaller ice caves and ice tunnels.
Thórsmörk winter super jeep tour by www.midgardadventure.is, 10% discount code: EPICICELAND10
Is it possible to go for a super jeep tour in winter? Of course, it is! And it actually makes perfect sense! Why? Well, in summer, if you rent a right car and have enough experience, you can drive to almost all amazing remote places in the highlands yourself. However, in winter, forget about driving to highlands. Everywhere is snow, often several meters/feet deep, and it’s simply too dangerous to drive to highlands alone, regardless of the car. Even Icelandic monster trucks not always make it in winter!
A PROMO CODE EPICICELAND10 will get you a 10% discount with Midgard Adventure, (in our opinion) the best small-group Super Jeep tour company.
Where to go for a super jeep tour from Reykjavik or in the south? The most beautiful winter super jeep tours in Icelandic highlands are definitely Thórsmörk valley and Eyjafjallajökull glacier volcano. Which one to choose if you can go only for one? Well, we rather recommend a Thórsmörk winter super jeep tour. Thórsmörk has slightly more versatile landscapes in winter, so if we had to choose just one, it would be Thórsmörk.
Eyjafjallajökull Winter super jeep tour by www.midgardadventure.is, 10% discount code: EPICICELAND10
There are several super jeep tour providers and we researched all of them. In our opinion the best value-to-price super jeep tour company is called Midgard Adventure. They are actually a small family company and they give their full hearts into their tours. They also operate small groups (usually max 10-14 people). That’s why we decided to partner with Midgard Adventure and we can offer our readers a 10% discount on all their tours with the discount code: EPICICELAND10
We wrote a short list of places we consider most beautiful winter places in Snæfellsnes peninsula.
The aim of this article is not to list all of the beautiful places. We rather want to show you how some of our most favorite places in Iceland look like in winter. You can then decide for yourself, whether you want to visit a specific place or not, or whether you want to visit the place in summer or in winter, or at both times.
This post is part of our Winter Iceland articles series:
Guðrúnarlaug hot spring is accessible also in winter, just take special care where you leave your car. You can’t park in the middle of the road and neither on a private property. And everywhere else is usually a lot of snow.
Bathing in Guðrúnarlaug in winter
When we visited Guðrúnarlaug in the beginning of March, we were there alone. Water was considerably less hot compared to summer, but still warm. Surroundings of Guðrúnarlaug were even more quiet and peaceful than in summer.
Selvallavatn viewpoint is a nice short stop to take a quick look over nearby hills and also to see a nice little waterfall Selvallafoss, which looks like a miniature of famous Seljalandsfoss in the south. Selvallavatn is a nice introduction to Snæfellsnes peninsula.
Stykkishólmur
Stykkishólmur in winter
Stykkishólmur is a nice coastal town worth a short stop if you want to go for a coffee, buy some groceries, refill gas or just chill a bit in a cozy village. There’s nothing special to visit in winter, though, other than soaking up some winter Icelandic atmosphere.
Wind playing with horses’ hair. One of our favorite shots.
We’ve caught not only a fairy-tale like weather on our way to Stykkishólmur, but also a group of amazingly beautiful Icelandic horses. These two factors combined resulted in one of our favorite series of horse pictures we’ve made in Iceland.
Helgafell is one of the easiest and most beautiful hikes we’ve done in Iceland in winter. And a pretty underrated one. We’ve actually discovered Helgafell hill only thanks to our accommodation, which was located just around the corner. Almost no foreign visitors know about Helgafell. Hike to the peak of Helgafell takes only about 10 minutes and on a nice day guarantees beautiful views all around the area. Helgafell is accessible also in winter and with some effort almost everyone can climb a few hundreds of meters up to the summit.
Kirkjufell, the most photographed mountain in Iceland, is of course well accessible also in winter. And very touristy too. Kirkjufell is undoubtedly one of the most touristy places in Iceland. Nevertheless, if you haven’t been there yet (at all, or just not in winter), it’s totally worth a visit, because it’s beautiful regardless of the crowds.
Búðakirkja is well accessible also in winter, if roads on Snæfellsnes are, of course, accessible too. Once again, check www.road.is for that. Búðakirkja is one of the most picturesque churches in Iceland, and probably also in the world. Its black colors contrasting with white snow are a perfect setup for an amazing winter picture.
Arnarstapi cliffs
Arnarstapi cliffs in winter
Arnarstapi is a beautiful coastal village and cliff area well accessible also in winter. A stroll around Arnarstapi coast was one of our most favorite easy walks in winter Iceland. We were lucky to catch a day with nice weather so we could enjoy the cliffs fighting with the winter sea waves to the fullest. It took us around 30 minutes to walk around entire Arnarstapi.
Lóndrangar cliffs are well accessible also in winter. Lóndrangar is definitely the most famous cliff in Snæfellsnes peninsula and most likely also the most picturesque one. There’s a viewing deck both east and west of the cliffs. The best view of Lóndrangar cliffs is in our opinion from the eastern deck, ideally before lunch, when the sun is shining to the west, not from the west (into your face).
We visited Djúpalónssandur beach only in winter and the beach is well accessible in winter. We think Djúpalónssandur is a bit overrated, it’s just a nice black sand beach – as are many other beaches (or here, or here) in Iceland. Just this one is usually accompanied with many visitors.
Rauðfeldsgjá gorge
Rauðfeldsgjá gorge is the most popular gorge in Snæfellsnes and one of the most popular gorges in Iceland too. Rauðfeldsgjá gorge is mostly not accessible in winter, due to narrow trail often covered by snow, which can be dangerously slippery.
Lýsuhólslaug Geothermal Baths
Lýsuhólslaug hot spring
Lýsuhólslaug is open regularly only during summer. Lýsuhólslaug is open in winter only on selected weekends, announced on the facebook page of the baths.
Sturlungalaug hot spring
Sturlungalaug hot spring is a wild hot spring working, of course, all-year-round. The main issue about getting to Sturlungalaug is the road, though. Or, better said, a track. The only way to get to Sturlungalaug (other than hiking for about an hour) is by driving a Sturlungalaug dirt track. And this dirt track is most of the time unmaintained in winter. This means, Sturlungalaug is not accessible in winter for regular 4wd cars, only for big jeeps or for hikers.
This is our winter itinerary for Iceland we’ve completed during the last week of February and the first week of March. It’s a 2-week winter itinerary for Iceland and we hope it may help you set your expectation right for your upcoming Icelandic winter trip.
This article just briefly summarizes our 14-day winter itinerary with beautiful spots and times. We write in detail about each part of our trip in the following articles:
No itinerary is universal and suitable for everyone. We actually believe that exactly the opposite is true. Everyone should create their own itinerary according to their own priorities. That’s why we usually don’t write any specific itineraries and write only about specific places to inspire you for your visit.
Drive ourselves, book tours only for activities we can’t do ourselves
Glacier lagoon picnic stop
We have built our February/March trip around these priorities. What does this mean? We drove quite a lot, because we wanted to see quite a lot. We didn’t spend a lot of time in restaurants, because this was not our priority. We booked simple cabin, hotels or guesthouse accommodations, because fancy hotels were not our priority.
If you’ve read some of our articles before, you may probably know we try to avoid crowded and touristy places as much as possible. We totally recommend this in summer, when it’s pretty safe. In winter, it’s a bit different. You don’t want to be stuck in a snow storm somewhere alone, trust me. Warm “civilization” is also much more welcome in winter, when you will be much happier coming somewhere for a coffee or a hot dog to warm up.
What I wanted to explain by this is, that we didn’t focus that much to avoid touristy places in winter, because “touristy” places with all the infrastructure are actually much more comfortable and safer to visit in winter. Without any more words, see below what we’ve done.
DAY 1 – Arrival
Gljúfrabúi waterfall in winter
Our flight was supposed to land in Keflavik at round noon. Due to a combination of orange and red weather alerts, however, the flight was postponed by 8 hours. This sounds like a bummer, but we were actually pretty lucky our flight was not cancelled, as were many flights from the US around the same time.
That being said, our flight finally landed at 8PM. We picked our rental car at around 9PM, only thanks to the car rental lot being located right next to the airport hall (saying hi to Go Car Rental, by the way here you can find discount codes on Best icelandic Car rental companies only).
Lóndrangar cliffs in winter
Even a drive to our accommodation in Hveragerði wasn’t easy, nor ordinary. Due to the weather alerts, some of the roads remained closed, including the part of the ring road from Reykjavik to Hveragerði. That meant, we had to drive a longer southern route via Þorlákshöfn, all that already by full dark and still snowing (see short video) quite a lot. Definitely an adventurous and also a little bit scary drive, that took us almost double the expected time. We got to our accommodation at midnight. This is a nice example of a need for being flexible in winter in Iceland.
This is how you may end up driving in a weather alert. Source: www.ruv.is
The plan for this day was to take an amazing Super Jeep tour to Thórsmörk by Glaciers and Waterfalls. However, weather was against it. This is when we encountered our second weather alert, this time an orange one. This meant very strong winds and lots of rain. The tour obviously got cancelled and we didn’t have to pay anything.
Originally, we planned to leave our cabin early in the morning for the tour. Instead, we remained “locked” in the cabin for an almost entire day until 4PM. Our cabin host was kind enough to let us stay in the cabin for that long without any surcharge, despite the checkout time being at 11AM. Take a short look how the orange weather alert looked like:
Nevertheless, we enjoyed the full day in the cabin anyway and didn’t let the weather disappoint us. Imagine being locked up in a nice, warm cabin with wind and rain shaking the cabin and blowing all around you. It definitely has some romantic touch. This is another nice example of a need for being flexible in winter in Iceland.
The only thing we managed during this day was to relax, observe the weather and complete a 3 hour drive to our next accommodation.
When to visit Iceland to see Northern Lights? What is the best month for Northern Lights in Iceland? How to maximize your chances of seeing Aurora in Iceland? These are some of the most asked questions when it comes to Northern Lights in Iceland.
Many websites write something about Northern Lights, but we haven’t seen any website with all necessary information combined in one article. That’s what we attempt to do today 🙂 Of course, you can write a scientific thesis on how to see Northern Lights in Iceland, also known as Aurora. But, we will try to keep our guide to Northern Lights brief, yet still give you all the details you need to know.
This post is part of our Winter Iceland articles series:
The shortest answer is between September and April. You need to balance good weather with dark skies. The best balance seems to be somewhere around September/October and then March/April. No guarantees, due to unpredictable weather. Also, I suggest you read our entire article to understand what are your chances to see Northern Lights.
While dark days are quite easy to predict, clear skies are a bit harder to predict, but still possible. The most complicated thing to forecast is the aurora activity, a.k.a. solar activity. These are the most important factors that determine the quality of your Northern Lights show in Iceland. Besides these, there are also some smaller factors like time of the day, location and looking into right direction. Let’s dig deeper into all of these.
Northern Lights next to Kirkjufell
3.1. Dark days
Dark days in Iceland are the easiest thing to predict. You know these with certainty. The shortest daylight hours are in December, with only 4 hours of daylight and the longest daylight hours are in June, with 21 hours of daylight.
It’s impossible to observe Aurora during the brightest season in May, June or July with a bare eye. This does not mean there’s no Aurora at that time. There is. You just can’t see it, because the skies are just too bright. On the other hand, in December you have almost a 20-hour long window to catch a glimpse of Northern Lights, which is pretty long. If it was only about dark days, the easy answer would be – come in December. But it’s also about weather and clear skies.
Daylight hours in Iceland by month
Secondly, skies are the darkest between 10PM and 12PM. These are the hours with biggest chances of seeing Northern Lights. This is also when most of the Northern Lights tours go out for the hunt.
Last but not least, dark skies also mean no light pollution. Stay away from cities, settlements or any substantial light sources and you will see a much stronger aurora, once it happens. This is where it’s useful to have a 4×4 car also in winter, so that you can reach more remote places with better (darker) light conditions also in winter.
3.2. Clear skies
Clear skies are a bit harder to forecast, because they all depend on weather. And as you have probably heard, weather changes quickly in Iceland and is quite unpredictable. That being said, the most stable weather outside of summer in Iceland is usually during early autumn – September, October and early spring – March, April. Not always though, for example October often has some nasty storms and weather alerts.
Can you see Northern Lights on a cloudy day? Either not at all, or just weak Northern Lights. Clear skies are very important for a beautiful, high-quality aurora show. There are 3 types of clouds – low level clouds, medium level clouds and high-level clouds. Ideally, you want none of these. You can easily observe the cloud forecast at en.vedur.is. Just bear in mind, the most reliable forecast is for the next 1 or 2 days.
Comparison of a good cloud forecast and a bad cloud forecast for Northern Lights from en.vedur.is
How is it possible then that Northern Lights tours go out every day? Well, the guides will try to find a spot with as little clouds as possible, based on both the forecast and recommendation of locals. With some skill and practice you can actually find some northern lights pretty often, at least the weaker ones, though not always.
3.3. Solar activity
The third very important factor is the solar activity, sometimes called aurora activity. Solar activity actually produces Northern Lights as sun gases. If there is no solar activity, there are no Northern Lights. If there is a strong solar activity, there may be a beautiful aurora on a clear and dark day.
Now how do you know if there’s a strong solar activity? Look at the solar activity forecast, measured by KP index, on en.vedur.is and/or in Northern Lights apps. Official Icelandic Meteorological forecast is, however, usually the most reliable one. KP index is the summary number for the solar activity. It’s a simplification. Of course, you can go much deeper than just KP index, just read below.
Pictures from a guided Northern Lights tour from Reykjavik by Glaciers and Waterfalls, 10% discount code: EPICICELAND
3.3.1. KP Index
KP index basically measures the strength of the solar activity in a single number, combining several factors. It’s not perfect, nor universal, but often helps a lot.
KP 0-1 usually means you can’t observe aurora with bare eye, only with your camera.
KP 2-3 usually means weak, but already present Northern Lights, usually green only
KP 4-5 is already pretty good, with higher chances to see even colorful Aurora
KP 6-9 means strong Northern Lights of various colors, with KP of 8-9 happening only very rarely
Once again – there’s no guarantee you will see northern lights even if the KP index shines at 5. The KP index is just a forecast, changes frequently and locally in a matter of hours and it’s impossible to exactly predict. The same however applies to low KP index – sometimes you can see amazing Northern Lights even if the index is low.
KP index as stated on en.vedur.is
3.3.2. Long-term sun cycle (11 years)
Now you know you need dark days, clear skies and high solar activity. But is there any pattern in aurora activity? Actually, there are several notable patterns.
There’s a long-term sun cycle lasting approximately 11 years which has a strong influence on quality of Northern Lights. The most solar storms and the strongest solar winds (i.e. the highest solar activity) occur around the so-called “solar maximums”. The nearest solar maximum is predicted to happen around 2024-2025. Year 2020 was actually a year of a “solar minimum”.
This means, the chances for seeing spectacular Northern Lights in 2023, 2024 and in 2025 are pretty high!
Long term sun cycle that strongly determines the Northern Lights activity. Source: SWPC NOAA
3.3.3. Yearly equinox cycle (1 year)
On a yearly basis, solar activity often peaks during autumn and spring equinoxes, i.e. in September and in March. These are the months when (usually) chances of seeing the most beautiful Northern Lights rise considerably. Once again – no guarantees, because the overall aurora show depends on all of the other aspects mentioned in this article.
3.3.4. Short-term moon cycle (29 days)
Not many know, that moon cycle also affects your chances of seeing Northern Lights in Iceland. Specifically, a full moon makes the sky much brighter and, thus, lowers your chances of clearly seeing vibrant aurora.
On the other hand, skies are darkest during new moon phases. We recommend to come to Iceland a few days before new moon, or just center your visit around new moon to maximize your chances of seeing Northern Lights.
Apart from long-term sun cycles and short-term moon cycles, the so-called solar storms (or “substorms”) may occur every now and then. Solar storms are great for Northern Lights. They mean that strong solar winds will be hitting the earth’s magnetic field and this implies strong aurora. How to detect solar storms? Once again, the simplest way is to watch out for KP index, which already includes solar storm forecast.
If you insist of digging deeper, then you can watch out for so-called Coronal Mass Ejections (solar flares) of the sun. They indicate a potentially strong aurora in the upcoming hours.
Aurora forecast for Iceland from https://auroraforecast.is/
3.3.6. Interplanetary Magnetic Field
Want to go even deeper? Interplanetary Magnetic Field activity (or IMF), is an important component of the KP index. Sometimes KP can be low, and IMF can still be favorable. Many “aurora hunters” often claim that KP index is not everything, and you should rather be looking at IMF and the so-called BZ index (which is just the direction of IMF). You can read more about IMF here or here. To simplify it as much as possible, you need to be looking for:
Negative BZ index / IMF direction – the more negative, the better; this means solar winds going towards earth, not elsewhere
Strong IMF – the stronger, the brighter and more visible aurora
Fast Solar Wind – the faster, the better
Aurora forecast for Iceland by https://hello-aurora.com/
3.4. Location
Guess why Northern Lights are called “northern”? Because most of the time they really appear in the north and in the northern direction of the sky. So, what does this mean for you? Look at the northern direction. And try to avoid any bigger obstacles (like mountains) in that direction. There are not many of them in Iceland, but just in case 🙂
Does it make sense to travel to the Northern Iceland to see Aurora rather than staying in the South? Not really, the difference between the North and the South will most likely be only minor. However, it makes huge sense to travel to spots where there are no clouds and which are away from lights and cities. Regardless of the direction.
A picture from a guided aurora tour from Mývatn by Star Travel, 10% discount code: EPICICELAND
4. What is the best month to see Aurora in Iceland?
Best months to see Northern Lights in Iceland are September, October, March and April. This is just a very simplified recap of everything written above. If we take into consideration stability of weather, dark skies and sun activity, we will arrive at these 4 months to most likely have the best chances. Does it guarantee you to see Aurora? Not really, this is just about odds of seeing them.
What about November, December, January and February? You can surely experience a spectacular Northern Lights show also during these months. Just bear in mind that weather may be more cloudy and solar activity slightly lower.
Can I see Northern Lights in August? Yes, you can! Especially in the second half of August aurora already starts to appear. Although chances for a huge vibrant show are lower compared to winter, autumn and spring months, it’s still possible to see it.
Are May, June and July totally off the table? Yes, most of the time they are. Especially in June and July the skies are simply too bright for Aurora to be seen with the bare eye.
A picture from a guided aurora tour from Mývatn by Star Travel, 10% discount code: EPICICELAND
Advantages and Disadvantages of a specific month to see Aurora in Iceland:
June, July – impossible by bare eye, too light days
May – hardly possible by bare eye, too light days
August – sometimes possible in the second half; usually weaker show (not so dark days); but very good weather; no snow
September – pretty possible; medium show (still not very dark days); stable weather; yearly equinox peaks
April – same as September, just weather is a bit less stable and there may still be snow
October, March – high chances; good show; usually more storms and clouds (less stable weather); often also snow; yearly equinox peaks
November, February – similar to October and March, just more snow, less daylight, and weather may again be less stable
December, January – darkest days; a lot of snow; storms and weather alerts; no yearly equinox; if skies are clear and solar activity is high, show may be great
5. Is Iceland the best country to see Northern Lights?
Iceland is a great country to go for a Northern Lights hunt. It probably isn’t the best, though. I suggest you look at the map below, which shows with green/orange/red the areas with the highest likelihood of seeing a big Northern Lights show.
Global aurora forecast
6. Why does everyone have amazing Northern Lights pictures?
The trick is, Aurora often looks much better on camera than in real life. This is due to the fact that you can set up your phone or camera’s settings in such a way, that they can capture presence of Northern Lights even if you can’t see them yourself. Specifically, you need a long shutter speed (20 seconds). Try googling “how to shoot northern lights”, you will get tons of results.
Our first-ever northern lights picture, near Höfn, 3rd September
6.1. Real life example of hunting for Northern Lights
A positive example to begin with. Once, we visited Iceland on September 3rd , in a year of a solar minimum. Despite all of these, our neighbors from the apartment next to us woke us up around midnight, all staring at the sky. Northern Lights were there! Not very strong, with green colors only, but they were there. We didn’t even try to chase Aurora at this time of the year, yet aurora turned out to be chasing us.
Next time, we spent 2 weeks in Iceland during the last week of February and the first week of March, and, unfortunately, we’ve clearly seen Northern Lights on one evening only. Moreover, the sight was very similar to the one experienced in September. Not very strong and green colors only. We were watching forecast every day, chasing the spots with clear skies and we didn’t see any major show over entire 2 weeks of this winter trip.
Our first winter Aurora “show” in Seyðisfjörður. Shot by simple cell phone. 28th February.
Our advice is simple, though. Don’t visit Iceland only because of Northern Lights. Don’t make Aurora the ultimate purpose of your trip. Go and explore the beautiful winter Iceland, and when the conditions are right for Northern Lights, they will be an amazing bonus to experience. Don’t let not seeing them ruin your holiday, because it’s perfectly possible you may not see them even after reading this guide.
7. Useful Northern Lights websites and apps
The most reliable aurora forecast in Iceland is always done by Icelandic Meteorological Office – En.vedur.is
There are many other websites, for example www.auroraforecast.is, in our experience, though, Vedur was always the best
For a global aurora forecast watch SWPC NOAA website, it forecasts with a 45min lead time
What are the best Northern Lights Apps? We are getting the best feedback on on App called Hello Aurora; nevertheless, we prefer Icelandic Meteo Office website
8. Best Northern Lights guided tours
Does it make sense to book a guided tour for Northern Lights? Yes and no. On one hand, you are definitely able to observe Northern Lights in Iceland on your own.
On the other hand, a tour guide will surely maximize your chances of seeing the Aurora. The guides have the best weather forecast available and they can ask locals about the current Northern Lights conditions all around Iceland. This is the huge advantage. If you don’t want to bother about forecasts yourself, then go for the Aurora tour in Iceland.
We have hand-picked the best Northern Lights tours, all with 5* reviews only, and amazing and knowledgeable guides.
The only difference between the tours below is the number of participants and the vehicle used for transport.
8.1.1. Cheapest tour by Minibus
This is the most popular Northern Lights tour by minibus. It’s the cheapest, with the biggest number of participants, departs from Reykjavik, and is operated by a minibus.
You can use a 5% discount code for the tour: EPICICELAND23
This is an amazing semi-private Northern Lights tour operated by family-owned company called Glaciers and Waterfalls. You will be transported by a super jeep and the maximum number of participants will be limited to 6. You can have a 10% discount on all Glaciers and Waterfalls tours with the discount code: EPICICELAND
8.1.3. Private tour by Super Jeep
Want to go for a private Northern Lights tour with a super jeep from Reykjavik? Private Aurora tour by Glaciers and Waterfalls is most likely the best tour for you. You can have a 10% discount on all Glaciers and Waterfalls tours with the discount code: EPICICELAND
A picture from a guided Northern Lights tour from Reykjavik by Glaciers and Waterfalls, 10% discount code: EPICICELAND
8.1.4. A 3-Day Northern Lights Hunt by Jeep
Planning a Northern Lights tour for just one day is almost always a hit or miss. You can never be sure the show will be going on your day. That’s why we also recommend trying an amazing 3-day Aurora Hunting tour by Jeep.
This Aurora tour is run by the legendary Icelandic super jeep company – Midgard Adventure. You will never make a mistake by booking their tours. They are the stars in what they do in Iceland!
Our readers can also enjoy an exclusive 5% discount code for the Midgard Adventure northern lights tour: EPICICELAND5
Picture from a fantastic 3-day Northern Light tour by www.midgardadventure.is, 5% discount code: EPICICELAND5
8.2. Aurora Tours in the North
The only difference between the tours below is the number of participants and a vehicle used for transport.
8.2.1. Cheapest tour by Minibus
Start Travel is an amazing family-owned tour company with only 5* reviews, conducting tours for more than 10 years already. Star Travel offers 3 variants of the Northern Lights tour. The first one is operated by minibus, it’s the cheapest and with the biggest number of participants. Here is the cheapest minibus Aurora tour from Mývatn. You can have a 10% discount on all Star Travel tours with the discount code: EPICICELAND
A picture from a guided aurora tour from Mývatn by Star Travel, 10% discount code: EPICICELAND
8.2.2. Semi-private tour by Super Jeep
This Super Jeep Northern Lights tour by Star Travel is operated by a jeep and limited to 8 people. If you want a semi private Aurora tour from Mývatn or Akureyri with your own guide, then this is in our opinion the best tour you can take. You can have a 10% discount on all Star Travel tours with the discount code: EPICICELAND
Iceland in winter is very specific and you need to both prepare well and set your expectations right. We’ve put together a list of all important nuances you should prepare for when visiting Iceland in winter.
This post is part of our Winter Iceland articles series:
Be flexible.Weather may entirely change your plans for the day. Tours may get cancelled. Roads can get closed. Flight schedules can change pretty often too. Be mentally ready for that.
Plan shorter days. It will take you longer to hike. It will take you longer to drive. It will take you longer to change the clothes. Weather alert may even squeeze your day into 2 hours only.
Drive carefully. And choose a proper car. Driving on icy roads is no joke. But it’s doable if you drive with respect, caution and practice gradually. Watch www.road.is daily.
Don’t underestimate. Wind, ice, driving, weather alerts, dark days. It may not end up well.
Dress accordingly. It’s not that cold, but it’s very windy, it may rain and snow. No jeans.
Bring shoe spikes. Or buy them once you arrive. It’s very icy on every hike. It’s Iceland.
Set your expectations right. Read this article for many more tips 🙂
Enjoy Iceland!! No matter the weather or your plans, Iceland will be amazing!
Winter in Iceland
2. Winter weather in Iceland
Want a real life example of what the weather in Iceland is like in winter? Last time we visited Iceland for 2 weeks at the end of February / beginning of March, we experienced the following weather:
3 days with weather alerts (strong winds and rain) – two of them on the days of our flights (yes, flights were postponed)
2 days with sun, clear skies and no wind
2 days with sun, clear skies and very strong wind
2 cloudy and windy days
1 rainy and foggy day
4-5 days with the mixture of all of the above in one day
Road to Seyðisfjörður in winter
2.1. Winter temperatures in Iceland
It’s actually not so cold in Iceland in winter as you might expect. In February, we had days ranging from -5°C (i.e. 23°F) to +8°C (i.e. 46°F). The ocean warms up the coastal areas (i.e. basically almost the entire ring road), so it’s never -20°C in here. It can be that cold in the highlands, though. But you probably aren’t going to Icelandic highlands in winter, unless on a tour or unless you have some Icelandic friends with super jeeps 🙂
2.2. What is the weather like in Iceland in winter?
Expect a wild and unpredictable mixture of sunny days with blue skies, rainy days (yes, rainy!), cloudy days, windy days, snowy days and a mixture of those and anything in between and all of that sometimes changing even several times during the day.
Wind blowing famous Skógafoss to the left
2.3. Wind in winter
Expect wind. A lot of it. Expect it to be strong, usually stronger than you are used to. It is not the cold, nor the rain/snow that may interrupt your plans, most of the time it is the strong wind, that, simply occurs every now and then during the winter. And it often causes weather alerts. Both our inbound and outbound flights in February/March were postponed due to strong winds by 8 hours and 2 hours respectively. Some airlines rather cancel the flights, see section on flights below.
2.4. Weather alerts
Related to the wind are the so called weather alerts. This usually means a very strong wind, sometimes combined with rain and/or snow. Wind may reach a hurricane force speed. No, you don’t want to drive or hike, or even walk outside when this kind of wind blows! There are three types of weather alerts – yellow, orange and red.
This is how you may end up driving in a weather alert. Source: www.ruv.is
Red is the worst, as you probably suspected. Stay in a safe, indoor place under all circumstances
Orange is the next, don’t drive in the orange alert. It may be possible to drive some really short distances but expect strong wind blows and usually wet and slippery roads. An ideal recipe for an accident. So, better don’t drive at all.
Yellow alert is the least bad, but still pretty uncomfortable. And dangerous. Drive only when necessary and only short distances. Expect strong wind blows and usually also wet and slippery roads, just not that much as with the orange alert. Don’t drive through mountain passes at all (e.g. to Seyðisfjörður). Don’t plan any hikes. You can try walking outside but it won’t be very comfortable.
An ugly storm may make streets look like this for a while. Source: www.ruv.is
All alerts are much more bearable in cities. So, if you are staying in Reykjavik or Akureyri, you may try having a walk in yellow or even orange alert and see how it goes. Never in a red alert. Usually, you will want to avoid areas with any kind of alert, because neither driving, nor staying outside is very pleasant, and may actually even be dangerous. Things may be flying in the air during orange and red alerts.
This is what roads during weather alert in Iceland may look like
3. What to check before heading out
Every day, before heading out, check the:
Official Icelandic Meteorological website en.vedur.is for weather and weather alerts.
Official Icelandic Road Administration website www.road.is for current road conditions. Roads may easily get closed or impassable in winter in Iceland. See the section about roads below.
www.safetravel.is just to be sure you haven’t missed any alert or warning
Wind playing with horses’ hair. One of our favorite shots.
4. What month is the best to visit in winter?
Everybody has different priorities. You, and only you need to choose based on your priorities. You will never get everything 🙂 Every month in Iceland has some advantages and some disadvantages.
When it comes to daylight hours, the closer you get to December, the shorter the daylight hours. This, on one hand, means much shorter days for any tours, hikes or sightseeing. On the other hand, this means higher chances for observing Northern Lights. Moreover, if you want to experience a fairy-tale-like Iceland full of snow, your chances are again higher the closer you get to December.
Daylight hours in Iceland by month
A good compromise may be months like October, February, or March, when there’s still enough daylight, but also dark enough skies for northern lights and most likely also snowy surroundings.
4.2. Best month in Iceland weather-wise
Weather-wise – you cannot predict it. It’s different each year. It’s impossible to say whether March has better weather compared to December or anything like that. The same applies to weather alerts. There are years and months when they don’t happen at all and then you have a week with 3 weather alerts. Get used to it. It’s part of traveling to Iceland in winter.
Clear skies in Iceland in March, next to Kirkjufell
Generally, weather is slightly more stable around September, March, or April. But, these are already kind of autumn/spring months, not exactly winter ones like November, December, January and February. October is often a good balance of chances for northern lights, still warm enough weather, less tourists and cheap prices, however there are often storms and weather alerts.
4.3. Best month in Iceland northern lights-wise
The shortest answer is between September and April. You need to balance good weather with dark skies. The best balance seems to be somewhere around September/October and then March/April. No guarantees, due to unpredictable weather. The drawback of these months may be less snow. Also, I suggest you read our Detailed Guide to Northern Lights to understand what are your chances to see Northern Lights and how to maximize them.
Our first Aurora “show” in Seyðisfjörður. Shot by simple cell phone.
4.4. Best month in Iceland snow-wise
Many visitors come to Iceland to experience a winter full of snow. If you come between November and February, you will most likely have a lot of snow everywhere. As we mentioned above, the more you head into central Iceland, away from the coast, the more snow you will see. Pretty often, you will experience snow also anytime from October until April, though not always. For example, on one occasion we visited Iceland at the end of February/beginning of March and there was almost no snow at the coastal areas. Temperatures reached up to +8°C (i.e. 46°F) and it rained, instead of snow.
Kirkjufell in winter covered by snow
4.5. Best month in Iceland for Ice Caves
Oh and Ice caves! They are usually open from sometimes in October until sometimes in April. They change in shape and accessibility as the ice freezes or melts, with the peak ranging from November to March. These are the months when all of the ice caves are usually fully accessible. The most beautiful ice cave is usually the “crystal blue ice cave” near Jökulsárlón. You can visit ice caves only with guided tours, because it’s dangerous to go there alone. Once too much of snow and ice melts around end of April, most of the ice caves become too dangerous to visit and only some less (but still) beautiful ice caves stay open, like Katla ice cave.
5. Planning the accommodations in winter in Iceland
Accommodations very rarely get fully booked in winter in Iceland. By fully booked I mean all of the accommodations in some area. Yes, if you really want to stay in this particular hotel or cabin, that particular one may easily get fully booked, of course. But chances are, you will find a different accommodation option pretty easily, just not such a great one, maybe.
5.1. Last minute bookings
As I pointed out above, one of the options is to book accommodations “last minute”. This is pretty doable in winter. Worst case, you will need to drive an hour (or less) to reach the next free accommodation.
Yes, 4×4 car may be very useful in winter in Iceland
5.2. Flexible bookings in advance
The second option involves booking everything in advance, with 3 (or less) days cancellation option. This is what we prefer. 3 days upfront you are often able to tell whether you will be able to reach your accommodation or not. But it takes time to manage it, of course.
5.3. Fixed bookings in advance
The third option is to book everything without the cancellation option. In this case, I do recommend not booking the places too far from each other. For example, not farther than a 2-3 hour drive, or the drive you can make even in bad weather, worst case in the yellow alert. In case of a weather alert, you can always call your accommodation and try to arrange for an adjustment. Trust me, Icelanders are used to weather alerts.
Picturesque houses in Hali
5.4. Campervans and Camping
The fourth option is booking a campervan, motorhome or for the most adventurous ones camping in tents. This is the least comfortable option, because Iceland can be pretty harsh in winter. But it’s definitely adventurous and often also cheaper. The important thing is – it is mandatory to stay in the designated campsites only, especially in winter. And only some campsites are opened in winter, check it before going!
5.5. Which campsites in Iceland are open in Winter?
To make it more challenging for you, there is no accurate, up to date list of Icelandic campsitesthat are open in winter. Campsites themselves make it harder for visitors, because every now and then some of them close and some of them open in winter. I highly suggest you call/write the campsite in advance to check whether the campsite is open around the time of your visit. Below are some useful sources that have tried to list campsites opened in winter in Iceland:
Secondly, bear in mind that even if the campsite is open, not all amenities may be in operation in winter. Some campsites operate as normally, while other ones close their kitchen areas and/or even showers and offer only a space for a tent. Check this by contacting the campsite.
Hauganes hot pots in winter
6. Essential clothes for winter Iceland
What I brought and it was fully sufficient for a 2-week trip in February:
pair of waterproof hiking boots with ankle support and anti-slippery rubber outsoles (like Vibram); ideally also insulated/winter ones
2 lower layers – base one (wool or synthetic), and the outer one (water and windproof pants)
3 upper layers – base one (wool or synthetic), middle one (fleece), and the outer one (water and windproof jacket with a hood)
1 pair of waterproof gloves, 1 woolen hat, 1 thicker balaclava, sunglasses and shoe covers to not let the snow get into your shoes from above
My winter “gear” for Iceland
My wife brought the same clothes, just one additional lower layer. What we wish we had brought were the shoe spikes. You don’t need real crampons for majority of normal hikes in Iceland. But you definitely need spikes, if you plan to do hikes longer than 15 minutes. We’ve done 4-5 such hikes and were struggling a lot with hiking shoes only. Everywhere is snow and ice. Be prepared for it and get yourself some spikes. You can also buy them easily in Iceland.
However, if you don’t plan any regular hikes and you want to only stop at typical touristy places like waterfalls, hot springs, ring road spots etc., majority of them are accessible within 10 minutes of walk even without spikes. That being said, spikes are always an advantage, so it’s always better to bring them or to buy them on arrival. Tour companies often rent them to their clients for free.
7. Icelandic Roads in winter
Always use www.road.is for checking the roads. Every day. They often get closed or impassable in Iceland in winter. What does impassable mean? It means an Icelander with a big jeep may be able to pass, but not you. Secondly, closed means closed – any drive is strictly forbidden! Thirdly, “no winter service” is very similar to “impassable”, see details in our article explaining the difference between impassable road and no winter service road.
We drove a basic 4wd car, Dacia Duster in February and all colors except red (impassable) and black ones (difficult driving) were pretty much easily passable. Yes, even all these orange, blue or purple roads were OK to drive on. BUT. This depends a lot on your driving experience. We come from regions where we are used to driving in winter, even in 2wd cars. If you have driven your entire life in Florida and not seen the snow, then this may be harder for you and take special care.
Generally, all these different colors mean there will be some ice and some snow on the roads. Practically this means, you have to drive slowly and be careful, not jump on breaks, not make quick turns. Otherwise, the roads are usually passable also with a 2wd car (yes, even the orange, blue, purple, white marked roads). A 4wd car is always an advantage, though! But don’t drive the black and the red roads. These are for super jeeps with experienced drivers only. Sometimes even they get stuck.
This is a well-maintained winter road without snow
What, however, can change the situation dramatically, is weather. If it rains, snows or there’s a strong wind, it is much more dangerous to drive on an icy or snowy road. You need to be more careful and experienced if this is the case. The only way how to be sure about this, is to slowly try all these conditions yourself. Observe very carefully and gradually what you are and what you are not capable to drive through. Most importantly, if feeling unsecure, better stop, wait or find a different road.
7.3. Driving times in winter
In summer, you can more or less rely on time estimates produced by Google Maps, or any similar GPS software. In winter, this is not the case at all. In fact, the opposite is the case. It always takes us longer to complete the drive in winter. For obvious reasons – snow, rain, wind. I suggest counting with roughly double the summer/normal times – if you insist on any estimates.
A typical winter road condition in Iceland – a little bit of ice, a little bit of snow
8. Car rental in winter
Do you need a 4wd car in winter in Iceland? Well, I always recommend taking at least a cheap 4wd car like Dacia Duster when traveling to Iceland in winter. You never know where and when you can get stuck in the snow. It may even be just at the car park. Here’s where 4wd comes handy. The longer you plan to stay in Iceland and the more you plan to go away just from the ring road, the more you need a 4wd car.
For majority of beautiful and accessible places in Iceland a simple 4wd car would be enough. If you plan to drive the less driven roads (e.g. the 3-digit roads or mountain passes, or the roads marked with black) the bigger 4wd car like Toyota Land Cruiser comes really handy. And as always – the bigger car you rent, the bigger the chance you will not get stuck!
Road to Svínafellsjökull in winter
What about highlands, super jeeps and all these roads marked as “no winter service” or “impassable”? Technically, it’s not forbidden to drive them, we explain more about Icelandic roads being impassable here. BUT. You need a huge vehicle for it, let’s call it a super jeep, and a good local knowledge of the roads. This means – either team up with someone local or better book a super jeep tour.
8.1. Our winter car rental experience
We have already had a great experience with Go Car rental in summer, so we rented with them again in winter. We rented a 4wd Dacia Duster, the best price to value car for any ring road trips in my opinion. Our trip was scheduled for the last week of February and the first week of March. Dacia Duster is a great choice for simple F-roads in summer, for the entire ring road, and also for the majority of winter trips, because it is a 4wd car for a very affordable price. We write more about it in our guide on How to choose the best car for Iceland.
Go Car rental already includes super collision damage waiver, gravel protection and theft protection in their rental prices. These are the insurances you’re gonna need the most in winter in Iceland. In most of the cases, you basically don’t have to do anything additional with the insurance anymore. If you want to fully understand how Icelandic car rental insurance works, we wrote a guide on Icelandic car rental insurance.
We strongly suggest to rent a 4wd car, at least a simple one.
Once again, we had a great and smooth experience with the rental from Go Car. They have an office located just a 5-minutes walk from the airport hall (right next to the Aurora airport hotel). No need to take expensive taxis or wait hours for a shuttle. We collected our car within 15 minutes, not waiting in their office at all. The staff just quickly explained to us some basic car rental rules and we were good to go. The (great) experience is very similar also with Lotus car rental and MyCar rental.
A PROMO CODE epicicelandd5 will get you a 5% discount with Lotus and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.
The car itself was a great choice. We didn’t have a single problem with our Duster. We got everywhere we needed and everything worked just as it should have. We had a huge luggage suitcase which fit right into the car trunk and all our backpacks and food could easily be stored on back seats. For 3 or more people I would recommend bigger car, though. Duster is the most popular choice in Iceland and for a reason.
A RARE PROMO CODE EPICICELAND will get you a 5% discount with MyCar and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.
Go Car Rental is not the only great car rental company in Iceland. We have used several times in the past also Lotus Car Rental and MyCar Rental. We can more than just recommend all these 3 companies. Lotus is special in Iceland, because they offer a full platinum insurance that insures absolutely everything, even F-roads and river crossings (in summer). MyCar offers the best customer service and rents brand new Toyota cars for affordable prices.
For Campervans we can more than just recommend two amazing companies with amazing service and reliable Campervans. Probably the most famous Icelandic Campervan company is Happy Campers. They have a base at Keflavik airport. Slightly less known, but equally great company are Go Campers. They have a base in Reykjavik city.
Dacia Duster is a very good 4wd price/value. It will not get you everywhere, though!
9. Flights to Iceland in winter
Flights to and from Iceland often get delayed in winter and sometimes even cancelled. All delays and cancellations are due to weather. For example, both of our February flights (inbound and outbound) were delayed. First one by 8 hours due to orange weather alert. Second one by 3 hours due to strong winds. Flight cancellations most of the time happen on intercontinental flights (flights from the US or Asia). Flights inside the Europe most of the time get just delayed.
10. Northern lights
How to see northern lights in Iceland? Where to see aurora in Iceland? When to see northern lights in Iceland? These are some pretty often googled questions. Yet, your googling may often bring confusing results. So, let’s get Northern Lights in Iceland straight. If you want to maximize your chances of seeing aurora in Iceland, I suggest you read our Detailed Guide on Northern Lights in Iceland, where we dive deeper into the topic. If you insist on a short answer then to see Northern Lights in Iceland, you need “only” 3 things:
10.1. What are the best months to see Northern Lights in Iceland?
The shortest answer is between September and April. You need to balance good weather with dark skies. The best balance seems to be somewhere around September/October and then March/April. No guarantees, due to unpredictable weather. Also, I suggest you read our Full Northern Lights Guide article to understand what are your chances to see Northern Lights. A very very short summary is below:
Firstly, expect majority of tougher hikes (like Fimmvörðuháls, or hikes in Landmannalaugar, Kerlingarfjöll, or Þakgil) to be impassable and closed to general public. This is true once the first real snow settles in the highlands, which usually happens beginning of October. The snow then remains in the highlands until May, June, or sometimes (2022) even July. These tougher hikes then re-open to visitors once the major snow-packs melt, i.e. usually sometimes in June. If you are unsure about a specific hike, please contact safetravel.is for reliable information.
Secondly, don’t worry, of course you can hike also in winter in Iceland. Just try to pick a shorter hike, an easier hike, and a day with good weather (no strong wind, rain, snow or fog). While we often recommend going “off the beaten path” in summer, we recommend totally the opposite in winter. Remote places in winter mean no traces of footsteps, deep snow and no help anywhere – avoid them.
An easy hike to Kvernufoss in winter
Thirdly, buy spikes and wear them on your shoes! Spikes are totally invaluable for almost all winter hikes in Iceland. Winter hiking trails in Iceland are very often frozen, icy and slippery – you need a good grip and no winter shoes will guarantee that. Finally, similarly to driving times, expect your hiking times to roughly double. You will be hiking on an icy terrain and/or through snow and pretty often against wind. Such hikes are also much more strenuous, count on that.
12. Tourists
There are less tourists in Iceland in winter compared to summer (June, July, August and September). BUT. Winter is still a pretty popular time to visit Iceland, so don’t expect to be alone there. The typical touristy sights like a golden circle, silver circle and south coast can get pretty packed even in winter. That’s why we prefer visiting mostly places where tour buses don’t go, or where they go only seldom.
Visitors in Iceland by months
The busiest winter month is March, because the daylight is longer, Iceland still looks like a winter fairytale and there’s still a good chance to see northern lights. Prices are highest in March out of all winter months. March is then followed by February, January and November. The least visited winter month is December.
We prefer to visit Iceland in winter at the end of February, because the chances for northern lights are pretty good, the country is still covered in snow, the number of tourists is bearable and the daylight hours are sufficient. And as always, we try to avoid the most touristy places like Golden Circle. That being said, in winter it makes much more sense to visit also touristy places in Iceland. Why?
Reynisfjara beach can easily get crowded also in winter. This is one of the most touristy places in Iceland.
First of all, there will be less tourists compared to summer. Secondly, imagine hiking in a strong wind, sometimes rain and snow and a cold weather. You will more than just welcome all these “touristy infrastructure” places, where you may warm up a little bit, eat or drink something hot and just relax inside for a while.
Last but not least, it’s much safer to stay around more touristy spots in winter. Believe me, you don’t want to get stuck in snow somewhere alone, be it a road, a hike, or a remote accommodation. In summer, this is not much of an issue, but in winter it may be. That’s why we are strong advocates of remote places in summer, not that much in winter, though.
Iceland, often referred to as the “Land of Fire and Ice,” is a photographer’s paradise. With its otherworldly landscapes, dramatic weather conditions, and stunning natural beauty, this Nordic island country offers a plethora of photo opportunities that will leave you in awe. From the rugged highlands to the coastal wonders, here are the ten best photo spots in Iceland that should be on every photographer’s bucket list.
The Valley of Thor, or Þórsmörk in Icelandic, is a picturesque valley nestled between three glaciers: Eyjafjallajökull, Mýrdalsjökull, and Tindfjallajökull. It is named after the Norse god Thor, known for his fierce protection of the world against giants. The rugged beauty of this location certainly does justice to its namesake.
Why go
This enchanting location offers a unique blend of greenery, glacial rivers, and dramatic mountainous terrain, making it a captivating destination for nature photographers. It is also a popular hiking area. You can go on countless trails here. For example, the famous Laugavegur long-distance trail, which leads to the Landmannalaugar Nature Reserve, starts in Thórsmörk. Or the very famous Fimmvörðuháls hike.
How to get there
To reach Thórsmörk, you’ll need a 4×4 vehicle, as the roads can be challenging. Thórsmörk lies about 140 km east of Reykjavík, but the last 20 km is on a dirt road with several fords, which is passable only by off-road vehicles.
The final part of the Fimmvorduhals hike near Thorsmork
The journey typically begins from the small town of Hvolsvöllur, taking you through river crossings and rugged tracks. Guided tours are also available for those who prefer a hassle-free experience.
Tips on visiting
If you don’t feel like taking a car, you can also use the tourist buses from Reykjavik or Hella. Return tickets cost around 14,500 ISK, and you can use companies such as Reykjavík Excursions or Trex. These special four-wheel-drive mountain buses run around three times per day during summer.
Plan your trip during the summer period from June to September. During winter, the road to Thórsmörk is impassable and closed as crossing the rivers gets very dangerous. Even during summer, only experienced drivers should drive there as the weather conditions can change within minutes.
At the bottom of the valley, you can stay in the beautiful rural guesthouse Volcano Huts Þórsmörk or camp at Thórsmörk campsite.
Askja
Our visit of the Askja volcano area, one of the best places for photography in Iceland
Askja is a 4 km-long volcanic crater located in the remote and desolate highlands of Iceland. Photographers are drawn to this otherworldly destination for its lunar-like landscapes, including the Viti crater, filled with a striking turquoise geothermal lake. It’s an ideal location for capturing the raw power of Iceland’s geological forces.
Why go
The area around Askja is one of the most remote parts of Iceland. The barren, monotonous landscape with only shades of grey, brown, and black resembles more than any other place the landscape on the moon. The monotonous yet extremely beautiful landscape takes you to an exotic nature like you won’t find on the European continent. That was one of the reasons why NASA chose the Askja area for the geological training of its astronauts before going to the Moon.
How to get there
Getting to Askja is an adventure itself. You’ll need a sturdy 4×4 vehicle and a sense of adventure, as the F-roads leading to Askja can be challenging. The journey usually begins from the Dettifoss area in the northeast.
Directly below Askja is the F910 road, which leads off the F88 road. It then connects to the main Ring Road number 1.
F905 to Askja on a gorgeous sunny summer day
The distance from Reykjavik is 603 km. The roads are only passable for jeeps for a few months of the year, from early June to mid-September, when they disappear under a layer of snow and ice. The weather is unpredictable in this area, so it is vital to plan your journey well and check the current weather conditions.
From the car park at the end of the road, a hiking trail about 2.5 km long leads to the crater rim and Lake Öskjuvatn.
Tips on visiting
Pack a swimsuit for the trip! You can even swim in the Askja Crater. Thanks to the geothermal springs, the water temperature is very pleasantly warm (around 28 °C) and can come in handy in colder weather.
The whole area of the Icelandic highlands is breathtaking. Plan your trip and enjoy your time in this area. However, always check the current safety conditions. Hiking can be fun and enjoyable in good weather, but you don’t want to experience bad weather in this area.
Maelifell
Maelifell volcano is one of the most picturesque places in Iceland away from the crowds.
The green, cone-shaped mountain rising above black sand. That’s Maelifell Volcano, located in the Iceland Highlands, just northeast of the massive Mýrdalsjökull Glacier Park.
Why go
Maelifell is a mesmerizing natural wonder featuring a perfectly cone-shaped volcano covered in vibrant green moss. This surreal landscape creates a captivating contrast with the surrounding black sand desert, making it a fantastic spot for photography.
The vibrant green moss that blankets Maelifell is a type of moss called Racomitrium lanuginosum, and it’s an essential part of Iceland’s delicate ecosystem.
Interesting fact: Maelifell has been featured in films such as Noah and television series such as Game of Thrones because of its beauty.
How to get there
F210 Fjallabaksleid Sydri east to Maelifell
From Reykjavik, you take the Ring Road to the south. In Hvolsvöllur, turn left onto Route 261, which will become F261. Continue this road until turning on F210, which leads you to Maelifell after approximately three and a half hours of driving. You can access the site also from the east, starting on F208 and continuing on F210.
A 4×4 vehicle is essential, and it’s best to visit during the summer months when the roads are more accessible. During winter, the roads leading to the highlands are closed due to snow. Attempting to cross them is dangerous.
Tips on visiting
Even during summer, the terrain of the roads is very challenging, bumpy, and involves crossing rivers, so prepare to challenge your driving skills. Always check road conditions beforehand.
Enjoy the view on the black sands to Maelifell from the summit of Rauðibotn, a colorful volcano that lies near the F210 from the east.
Westman Islands
Eldfell volcano hike is one of the easiest and most beautiful ones
The Westman Islands, or Vestmannaeyjar, is a group of islands located about 12 kilometers off the south coast. Heimaey is the only inhabited place on Vestmannaeyjar.
The area is known for its remarkable history, including the eruption of the Eldfell volcano in 1973, which led to the evacuation of the entire population of Heimaey, the largest island in the archipelago. The town has since been rebuilt, and the eruption created new and unique landscapes worth photographing.
Why go
Heimaey is a bit of a hidden gem of Iceland. It offers a unique blend of natural beauty and wildlife photography opportunities. With dramatic cliffs, puffin colonies, and breathtaking coastal vistas, this place is heaven for photographers looking to capture the beauty of Iceland’s coastal landscapes.
Interesting fact: Westman Islands are considered the largest Atlantic puffin colony in the world.
Views from Heimaklettur on Heimaey island
How to get there
You can reach the Westman Islands by taking a ferry from the mainland, departing from the town of Landeyjahöfn in the south of Iceland. The ferry ride itself offers scenic views. The main island is not very big, so it can be explored on foot, or you can try to hitchhike. Taking a car is not necessary, but it is more convenient, especially if you want to save time.
Tips on visiting
Visiting the Westman Islands is a perfect one-day trip from the mainland. If you really want to enjoy the beauty and landscapes of the island, plan a trip at least two days long. That way, you will have time to experience a unique atmosphere.
Heimaey offers many hiking routes with amazing scenic views of the ocean and surrounding islands.
Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon
Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon
One of the most famous tourist spots in Iceland attracts travelers from all over the world. The overturning and cracking glaciers of Jökulsárlón create an incredible atmosphere. You might see the area as a backdrop for numerous movies, including James Bond’s “Die Another Day” and “Batman Begins.”
Why go
Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon is a surreal and ethereal location where massive icebergs break off from the Breiðamerkurjökull glacier and float serenely on the lagoon’s icy blue waters. This icy wonderland is a dream come true for photographers seeking to capture the magic of glacial landscapes.
Not very far away from the lagoon, glacial fragments of various sizes enter the ocean. They are either carried by the waves or remain trapped on the black sand beach, creating such a unique and magical spectacle. No wonder the beach was named Diamond Beach.
Jökulsárlón
How to get there
Jökulsárlón is easily accessible from the Ring Road (Route 1) in the southeast of Iceland. It’s a popular stop for travelers exploring the South Coast.
Tips on visiting
Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon is a popular tourist destination. The place might be crowded, especially during summer. There is a big car park with a parking fee to access the lagoon area.
Not enough to admire the glaciers from the coast? Take one of the boat tours that will take you closer to the icy pieces. You might see some seals as well.
Plan the visit during sunset to get different light for your photos.
Landmannalaugar
Landmannalaugar is an iconic photo spot
Landmannalaugar is a must-see place located in the heart of Iceland’s highlands. You can go there for a one-day trip or challenge yourself and set out a multi-day hiking route. There is a starting point of the Laugavegur Trail that takes you closely through some of Iceland’s most diverse landscapes, including colorful mountains, black deserts, and lush valleys.
Why go
It is a geothermal wonderland filled with vibrant rhyolite mountains, hot springs, and bubbling mud pots. The kaleidoscope of colors and unique geological features make it an enticing destination for photographers and hikers.
How to get there
To reach Landmannalaugar, you’ll need a 4×4 vehicle, and it’s usually accessible during the summer months via the F-roads. You can also join guided tours that depart from Reykjavik.
Rainbow hills on a Grænihryggur hike are some of the most beautiful ones in Landmannalaugar
There are three main roads leading to the campsite:
From Reykjavik on the F32 and the gravel road, F208.
From the west of the Hekla volcano, the gravel dirt road F26 and then F225 leads, which is passable only by off-road vehicles, among other things, because of several fords.
From the east along the F208, a dirt road in good condition. However, you must cross about 15-20 fords on the way and, therefore, it is passable only by 4×4 off-road vehicles.
Tips on visiting
All marked trails start at the large Landmannalaugar campsite, where you will also find public toilets, a small shop, and parking. There are six main trails leading from here, but you can combine them freely. They are marked with low-colored stakes, but you may not come across any signs for miles. The trails include both easy and short ones and long and challenging ones.
Before visiting, check the road conditions and river level. The road is only opened in the summer, starting mid-June to mid-September.
Seljalandsfoss
Seljalandsfoss at 7pm
Seljalandsfoss is one of Iceland’s most iconic waterfalls located in the south of Iceland. You can see it from a distance while driving the Ring Road, which makes it accessible all year around.
Why go
Seljalandsfoss is popular because of its location and its unique feature: you can walk behind the cascading water curtain, providing a rare and awe-inspiring perspective for photographers. Capturing the waterfall from behind, with the Icelandic landscape in the background, creates stunning and memorable images.
How to get there
Seljalandsfoss is conveniently located along the Ring Road (Route 1) by the South Coast. It’s easily accessible by car. From Reykjavik, it is 1 hour 45 minutes long drive.
Tips on visiting
Seljalandsfoss is one of the most visited places in Iceland. Plan the trip outside the season, early in the morning, or enjoy long summer nights and visit it during the night to avoid crowds.
It’s probably no secret nowadays, yet many people skip it in their haste. We’re talking about the neighboring Gljufrabui waterfall. It is cleverly hidden in the rock just a few hundred metres further along the path to the north. Waterfalls are usually magical places, but cave waterfalls are even more magical, offering unique photo-shooting opportunities.
There is a car park next to Seljalandsfoss for a small fee. You’ll find public toilets and souvenirs as well.
Kirkjufell
Kirkjufell in winter makes for an epic place for photography
Kirkjufell, also known as “Church Mountain,” is an iconic mountain lying on Snæfellsnes Peninsula in western Iceland.
Why go
Kirkjufell Mountain is perhaps one of the most photographed landmarks in Iceland. Its distinctive shape, paired with the nearby Kirkjufellsfoss waterfall, creates a stunning composition, which is perfect for photographers looking for that iconic shot.
How to get there
The area is easily accessible by car. It is around 180 kilometers from Reykjavik, which is about 2.5 hours long drive. Both the mountain and waterfall are located next to the main road 54. Right next to the mountain, you will find a small paid parking lot.
Tips on visiting
You can climb the 463-metre-high mountain on a very steep trail.
Snæfellsnes Peninsula is a gem bit forgotten by tourists. Not many people include the peninsula to their travel itinerary, but you should. It is full of natural beauty, iconic churches, waterfalls, glaciers, and picturesque lighthouses.
Goðafoss
Godafoss before sunset
Goðafoss is a waterfall in the north of Iceland between the Akureyri and Mývatn area, often referred to as the “Waterfall of the Gods. The nickname originates from an ancient tale when Iceland converted to Christianity, and the local chieftain Thorgeir Ljosvetningagodi threw his statues of Norse gods into the waterfall, symbolizing the shift in the nation’s beliefs.
Why go
With a width of over 30 meters and a wide horseshoe shape reminiscent of Niagara Falls, it is one of the most beautiful Icelandic waterfalls. It is also easy accessibility to both sides of the waterfall; you can practically walk right to the water and enjoy the monumental water spectacle up close.
How to get there
Goðafoss is easily accessible by car and is located along the Ring Road (Route 1) in northern Iceland, making it a convenient stop for travelers exploring this part of the country. The waterfall is visible from the road, and a short walk leads you to various viewpoints for photographing its splendor.
Tips on visiting
The waterfall can produce a lot of mist, so protect your camera gear.
There are a lot of different paths around the waterfall, allowing you to enjoy it from all angles. One path leads down to the water, and the view of the waterfall from below in all its glory makes it even more monumental.
Vestrahorn
Vestrahorn in Stokksnes proudly belongs to Iceland’s top photo spots
Vestrahorn is a striking mountain located on the Stokksnes Peninsula in southeastern Iceland.
Why go
Vestrahorn is a favorite spot of photographers for its dramatic, almost surreal appearance. With its jagged peaks, black sand dunes, and reflective lagoon, Vestrahorn offers a diverse range of photographic opportunities, making it a must-visit destination for landscape enthusiasts.
How to get there
Vestrahorn is easily accessible by car from the town of Höfn in southeast Iceland. The mountain is visible from the main road (Route 1), and you can drive to the base of the mountain. The Stokksnes Peninsula is private land, so there’s an entrance fee to access the area, which also includes a café and facilities.
Tips on visiting
If you want to capture the iconic reflection of Vestrahorn in the lagoon, visit during high tide when the water creates a beautiful mirror effect.
A few metres from the car park, there is a man-made Viking village, which was built as a prop for a film that was never finished.
Due to the close proximity to the sea, the mountains are very steep, and there are no official trails leading to them. However, you can hike up to the heights on beaten paths, which offer spectacular views of the black and grey slopes and the ocean.
New volcano is erupting again in Iceland! Well, it’s actually an old volcano, but who cares? The eruption which started in August 2022 takes place in Geldingadalir, Meradalir area and is supposed to be 5 to 10 times stronger than 2021 Fagradalsfjall eruption! The volcano and lava flow changes every day, so it’s very important to adhere to all rules set by Icelandic Civil Protection office and follow all the advice on https://safetravel.is/eruption-in-reykjanes. Hike to new Icelandic volcano is longer and tougher this year, and trails change constantly.
Many visitors, rather than going alone, prefer to take a guided tour to Meradalir eruption. We prepared the selection of best available 2022 volcano tours. We will do our best to update the list and broaden this article, and apologize for any discrepancies, which may occur because everything changes really quickly these days.
New Volcano eruption in Iceland, Geldingadalir, Meradalir
Geldingadalir volcano tours general information
New Volcano hike – time
A hike from the closest parking spot takes from 1 to2 hours one way, depending on your physical condition. If you are going on your own, definitely add up some time for finding a parking spot and walking from there to the start of the trail. Also, don’t forget to add a time to enjoy the volcano itself 🙂
2022 tours – price
As of August 2022, prices range around 300-700 USD per private group, i.e. the more of you the lower the price. If you go solo, i.e. you will be part of a bigger organized tour, do expect a price of around 100 USD per person. Of course, you may find cheaper and more expensive tours. Always check the current price with the provider, as these may change quickly.
2022 tours – what’s included
A typical volcano tour includes the following:
Reykjavik pickup with a driver
An experienced guide
Free cancellation up to 24 hours before the trip
A typical volcano tour does NOT include the following:
Shoes, clothes or any gear (no special is required, though)
Food, water, snacks
There are exceptions, though, and almost always there is an option to buy or hire anything you need, so don’t be afraid 🙂
Glaciers and Waterfalls is an amazingly friendly, funny and down-to-earth Super Jeep and Tour company in Iceland. Not only they have great and passionate guides, they also have wonderful reviews – 5/5 on Google, 5/5 on Tripadvisor and #3 of 342 tour providers in Iceland! Hard to find better 🙂 They’ve added a Meradalir volcano tour as one of the first and we really do recommend taking this one! Moreover – it costs less than 100 USD!
Guide to Iceland is a huge Icelandic tour company with many good references. They’ve recently added a helicopter Geldingadalir volcano tour and based on their reviews we can also recommend you to take this one. Obviously, a helicopter tour is pricier. BUT. Seeing a volcano from a helicopter is simply once in a lifetime experience 🙂 So you have to decide for yourself whether it’s worth it for you. Don’t take too long though, they sell out quickly. All conditions and price are clearly stated on their website and you can easily book via their system.
New eruption in Iceland, Geldingadalir, Meradalir – helicopter tour
Troll expeditions is a renowned Icelandic company with a long history and thousands of 5/5 reviews. They’ve recently added a Geldingadalir volcano tour and we really do recommend taking this one! All conditions and prices are clearly stated on their website and you can easily book via their system. And we also have a 5% discount for you! 🙂
A great and cheaper alternative to a helicopter flight is a flight by small, private airplane. You can book a volcano flight here. The advantages of a plane flight are clear – cheaper, a bit safer and more stable, possibility to go even if you are a bigger group. And, most importantly, most of the helicopter tours are already sold off! So an airplane may be a good alternative! CircleAir is a reliable local company with great reviews, so we can definitely recommend also this tour.
Flight to Geldingadalur, Meradalur volcano by airplane from Reykjavik
Another option for a helicopter tour is a volcano heli tour by GlacierHeli. This tour is slightly more expensive than the two tours above, but not much. In case all other tours are fully booked, we would definitely go for this one. Professional and reliable pilots and good history of the company make for a great trip.
Guide to Iceland serves also an affordable and well reviewed hiking tour. They’ve recently added this hiking tour to Geldingadalir volcano and based on their reviews we can also recommend you to take this one. All conditions and price are clearly stated on their website and you can easily book via their system.
What about a tour to volcano with and Icelandic geologist? Who else can be more proficient with explaining you all the nuances and context of the eruption? Well, in our opinion it definitely pays off to pay a few tens of dollars more for this experience which also comes in a small group only.
New Volcano eruption in Iceland, Geldingadalir, Meradalir
In case you prefer a totally private tour, at your own pace, with a private guide, then this tour is one of the best. It’s on a more affordable side and it has amazing reviews!
F839, Leirdalsheiðarvegur and F899, Flateyjardalsvegur combined with Husavik whale watching and Asbyrgi canyon. For this day of our highlands trip we once again planned a more relaxing day without hikes and with more driving. Firstly, I wanted to drive the two F-roads leading to the sea – F839 and F899. Then we had whale watching in Husavik scheduled for the afternoon. Afterwards we simply wanted to head towards our accommodation in Grímsstaðir and if we had time and energy, make a stop or two along the road.
F839 is one of the two F-roads leading to the shore from where you may reach Flatey island. It’s a beautiful F-road leading along the green valley, in between mountains on both sides. The road has many curves and you have to drive it slowly, not because of it being dangerous but because of narrow curves everywhere. It took us longer to complete than Google had suggested, because of this.
F839 – Leirdalsheiðarvegur
I don’t remember any bigger river crossings on the road. There were some streams, puddles and smaller rivers but nothing major. That being said, any 4wd car should be able to complete the road in summer. The main challenge of the road is the curved, slightly mountainous drive with some ascents and descents. Otherwise the road is fine to drive.
F839 Leirdalsheidarvegur
F839 or F899? If I had to choose again, I would go only for F899. The roads are pretty similar and I liked F899 – Flateyjardalsvegur more. The views around F899 were slightly more beautiful in my opinion and the road was more exciting – both because of the terrain and the medium river crossings. There’s also a nice beach at the end of Flateyjardalsvegur.
F899 – Flateyjardalsvegur
Flateyjardalsvegur
The roads F899 and F839 are pretty similar in terrain and surroundings. F899 is the second of the two F-roads leading to the shore from where you may reach Flatey island. It’s also a beautiful F-road leading along the green valley, in between mountains on both sides. F899, Flateyjardalsvegur, too has many curves and you have to drive it slowly, not because of it being dangerous but because of narrow curves everywhere. F899 also took us longer to complete than Google had suggested, because of its curvature.
F899 – Flateyjardalsvegur
F899 contains several river crossings. At the time of our visit, in the end of August, the biggest river crossing at F899 could be classified as a medium-sized river crossing. There are multiple streams and small river crossing at the road. The biggest river crossing is located almost at the end of the road, close to the beach. So, you may still drive the road up to this point and if feeling unsafe, simply turn back.
In good conditions in summer, you can drive F899 with any 4wd vehicle – up to the last river crossing. The last river crossing really depends on whether it rained during past days/weeks, i.e. what is the actual water level in the river at the time of the crossing. In good conditions and dry weather, it’s doable by any 4wd car, in medium conditions Dacia Duster would be a minimum and in worse conditions it’s better to opt at least for a Land Cruiser (as we did).
F899 near Flatey island
After the last river crossing of F899 you will spot the sea and the beach in front of you. This part of F899 actually leads literally “through the beach”, because you will be driving in a deeper sand. This is also the spot where bigger 4×4 may come handy. You wouldn’t want to get stuck in the sand with some small Subaru or Suzuki in here, trust me. We didn’t have much time to enjoy the beach and the coast, but I definitely do recommend you do it. Especially on a beautiful day. It’s a very picturesque place.
Whale watching
Although I’m personally not a big fan of organized tours, we decided to go for a whale watching in Husavik. Why? Because you probably won’t find a better place in Europe to see whales. And that’s a once in a lifetime experience.
Whale watching overalls
Whale watching tours we recommend
When it comes to whale watching by wooden boats, we definitely do recommend North Sailing whale watching. North sailing is one of the oldest Icelandic whale watching companies with almost 30 years history. They run their tours from Husavik, Hauganes as well as from Hjalteyri – so you may choose which spot works better for you. North Sailing is also very covid-friendly, because they rapidly reduced their boat capacities due to Covid. North Sailing is also one of the cheapest companies out there.
Whale watching by North Sailing
Because of the reasons above we decided to partner with North Sailing and can offer our readers a free 10% discount code for North Sailing: EPICICELAND
If you prefer whale watching by speed boat, our favorite company for this is Gentle Giants. They have long history and experienced crew. You won’t make a mistake by going with them.
Our whale watching experience
We wanted to try whale watching by speed boat, because we were short on time and wanted to maximize our chances to see the whales. When it comes to speed boats there’s a simple number one company – Gentle Giants. They are both the most famous speed boat whale watching company in Iceland and also the most professional.
Husavik whale watching by RIB boat
We arrived at the base of Gentle Giants in Husavik and everything started on time exactly according to schedule. English speaking guides, warm overalls, whale watching stories and vycerpavajuce information are a certainty. Our guide was a marine biology student from Italy, so she knew every bit of information when it comes to whales.
Meeting the whale
She also explained to us this summer was especially hot, which meant lower number of whale spottings. There were 10 passengers on the board of our speed boat. The captain sailed the boat for roughly 20 minutes when the first humpback whale appeared. As we were told later, we were lucky to meet this whale, because during past 3 days there were no sightings at all.
Humpback whale taking a dip
Once you meet a whale, it has a special ritual which can be predicted. Firstly, it comes above the sea level to get some air for a few minutes – this is when you spot a whale. Secondly it dives back into the sea, leaving a “diving circle” mark behind itself. Thirdly, after roughly 3-5 minutes a whale comes above the sea again. This cycle usually repeats for a few times, meaning that once you find a whale you should stick to it and enjoy a show several tens of minutes long.
While we were lucky to see the beautiful humpback whale, we weren’t that lucky with anything else. Other than humpback whale, we’ve seen one seal sunbathing near the rock and that was it. The boat sailed around for another hour but didn’t find any other whales nor dolphins or anything else. Probably due to warm waters as mentioned before.
Ásbyrgi canyon
Alone in August at Ásbyrgi canyon
Our next and the last stop for the day was Ásbyrgi canyon. Every Icelander we met recommended us Ásbyrgi as one of the most beautiful places in Iceland. On the other hand, if I read reviews online, Ásbyrgi sounded like nothing special. That’s also why we hadn’t visited it before, only now. From what I’d read, Ásbyrgi also seemed to be a pretty touristy place and I had expected it to be really crowded.
We arrived at Ásbyrgi pretty late, at half past 7 PM. For a short while, we thought we made a mistake and chose a wrong path, because there were no cars, nor buses, nor tourists both along the road and at the car parks. In late August. We left our car at a huge, well maintained, paved car park and went for the short exploration of Ásbyrgi on foot.
On a trail to Ásbyrgi canyon
There are many hiking trails in Ásbyrgi, and if you are into it, you may easily spend here an entire day, or even several days. To have an idea, here is the map of Ásbyrgi hiking trails:
Ásbyrgi hiking trails map
We took the shortest (and probably most efficient) visitor’s trail (A1 on the map above). The Ásbyrgi visitor’s trail will take you to the main viewpoint for the canyon, from below, in about 10-15 minutes. You will reach the nice spot near little lakes located at the bottom of the canyon. From there you may observe the “U-shaped” canyon embracing you from several sides. There are also several short detours from the visitor’s trail which end up at viewpoints of the same canyon, but from different angles.
Icelandic midges
Ásbyrgi is also the place where we really had a chance to get seriously attacked by midges. I didn’t understand everyone asking about the midges in Iceland. We travelled around Iceland several times and met almost no midges. But the Mývatn area is different. In a good weather, i.e. when it gets hotter in summer, you may meet unpleasant midges, especially in the Mývatn area. They are not dangerous, just unpleasant. Imagine 1000 midges fighting to get as close to your face as possible. That being said, if you plan to spend longer time around Myvatn, headnets may be a useful tool for you. You may buy them e.g. at gas stations.
Lake Mývatn is a place with the highest concentration of Icelandic midges
Ásbyrgi canyon – is it worth visiting?
Yes, Asbyrgi canyon is beautiful. Is it one of the most beautiful places in Iceland? Definitely no in our opinion. Having seen hundreds of out-of-this-world amazing places in Iceland, Ásbyrgi wasn’t that great in our opinion. It’s a nice stop if you have a way around, but you also won’t make a mistake skipping it. Hiking trails and surroundings of Borgarfjörður Eystri, Landmannalaugar or Skógar were much more stunning in our opinion.
Hljóðaklettar
Hljóðaklettar
Another interesting place we wanted to go look at is called Hljodaklettar. Hljóðaklettar is supposed to be a nice area for short hiked we beautifully colored hills and rocks. You will for example find a “red hill” there and several other interesting spots. Although Hljóðaklettar looked interesting from the photos, we decided to skip it due to lack of time. Hljodaklettar also didn’t seem to be that super interesting compared to many other amazing places in Iceland (similarly as Asbyrgi).
On this day we wanted to explore south-eastern highlands. Once again, we planned to stay away from typical touristy places and rather explore lesser known hikes and F-roads. Our accommodation base was a picturesque fjord town of Faskrudsfjordur. We’ve never been in the hot spring near Djúpivogur, called Djupavogskorin, so we definitely had to try it out. On a way there, though, I didn’t want to take an easy route and rather planned a drive via an old mountain F-road, former F936.
As a next stop we wanted to try a hike in Hvannagil valley, a place not many visitors know about. Then we planned to drive a part of the road F980 to Lonsoraefi, until the big river crossing and then turn back. As the only (massively) touristy spot we went to see Vestrahorn and Stokksnes with their black beach. Weather was unbelievably beautiful, so it simply screamed for taking some pictures there 🙂 If we had enough time, I also wanted to drive F985 towards glacier an back. A long day ahead!
What you can see on a sunny day in Fáskrúðsfjörður
We woke up on an amazingly beautiful sunny morning with the view over the fjord. Mountains were mirroring themselves in the sea. What can be better? Faskrudsfjordur was a real positive surprise of our trip. The whole summer has enjoyed spectacular weather in the north and in the east, while pretty bad one in the touristy south. Our time in Fáskrúðsfjörður only confirmed this. We admired the views and the scenery for quite some time and then moved forward towards our next stop.
F936 – Þórdalsheiðarvegur
Road 936, Þórdalsheiðarvegur, is the road you won’t find much about on the internet. Some maps mark it as F936, there’s even a sign “F936” right before the road. However, official Icelandic road map says it’s now road 936. So be it. An ideal target for exploration on our own then 🙂
Road 936 (F936), Þórdalsheiðarvegur
Thórdalsheidarvegur is an old mountain road which leads along the power lines in the mountains of Eastfjords, west of Faskrudsfjordur and connects the ring road with the road 95. Compared to road F338, that also leads along the power lines, the F936 is much more eventful, interesting and worth a drive. That being said, there’s probably no reason one would want to drive 936 other than just having an adventurous drive. There are several better quality road alternatives nearby.
What makes 936 unique is a zig-zagged mountain drive through green valley. It sort of resembles F821 in the north in some ways, though 936 is much less driven. There are no river crossings on 936 (hence it’s no F-road anymore). The road is steep and narrow at times, though. I definitely recommend driving a 4wd car on the road, ideally a medium-sized one or bigger. I enjoyed the drive and recommend it to any 4×4 enthusiast.
Djúpavogskörin hot spring
Djúpavogskörin hot spring, Djúpivogur
In short – the only hot spring I couldn’t bathe in. But not because it was dirty or anything, but because it was too hot in summer! In winter it was, however, just right 🙂 So we’ve already given you a spoiler ahead and now let’s talk a bit more about Djúpavogskörin hot spring.
Djupavogskorin is located right next to both the ring road and Djúpivogur. Thus, Djúpavogskörin is pretty well accessible and might get crowded in full season. On the other hand, Djúpavogskörin is not totally easy to find. We tried to follow Google Maps, that at least helped us locate the turn from the ring road. The turn will lead you onto a field track that simply ends at some point soon. That’s probably supposed to be a little “parking spot”. Please take care to not damage anything green with your car.
Djúpavogskörin hot spring
The next step was to found the actual Djúpavogskörin hotpot itself. The path leading to the hot spring is not marked. That being said, you don’t have many options, only to follow the only slightly trodden trail you can observe with your eyes. The path will soon bring you to a small steel pool called Djupavogskorin.
There’s no changing room, but there’s a wooden platform right next to the hotpot, where you can leave your towels and change your clothes at. Djúpavogskörin is the hottest hot spring we’ve bathed in. Or at least tried to bathe in. We weren’t able to fully soak in, because the water was simply too hot in the end of August. Djupavogskorin hot spring is free of charge and it’s a nice short stop along the ring road. We were lucky to be alone there, though I do not expect this to happen in the future again in summer.
Hvannagil golden valley
Hvannagil golden valley hike – views from the top
If I had to name one of the “hidden gem hikes in Iceland”, hike to Hvannagil valley would be one of them. Almost nobody knows about this hike, yet it is beautiful. Hvannagil valley is located next to the settlement called Staffafell. Hvannagil is also pretty close to Lonsoraefi nature reserve, just on the opposite side of the river.
Hvannagil hike map
You may get to the start of the Hvannagil hike trail by any car in summer. The road leading to Hvannagil valley is semi-paved and narrow but without any river crossings. There’s no designated car park, but you can safely park your car at the huge pebbles area located here. This is a good starting point for the hikes in the area. There are two main hikes of Hvannagil valley – shorter clockwise Hvannagil round trip and longer clockwise Hvannagil-Raftagil round trip.
Hvannagil valley hiking trail
Beginning of the Hvannagil golden valley hike
We picked the shorter hike to Hvannagil valley. Hvannagil hike took us 2 hours to complete as a round trip. Hike is not marked at all and most of the time you just have to follow the (sometimes well, sometimes not) trodden trail. The maps like Alltrails or Mapcarta helped a lot. Hvannagil hike starts by walking on pebbles in the direction of the Hvannagil canyon. You will basically be walking through the dry river bed. Hike then continues steeply up the hill on your right via a bit slippery and a bit steep ascent. You should be able to spot this either as a trodden path or on your maps.
Hvannagil golden valley hike
Both the views of the canyon and the views you will get when you reach the top of the ascent are amazing. And, most likely, you will not meet many fellow visitors in here. So the feeling of remoteness only intensifies the entire experience. Be sure to pick a nice day, i.e. not too foggy or too rainy, otherwise you won’t see much during the hike and the ascent may become a bit dangerous.
Hvannagil golden valley hike – the ascent
If you continue for 5 minutes from the highest point of the hike in a clockwise direction you will have two options for your descent. Either do a longer hike, which continues as a more gradual descent to the left, or descend quickly via a steeper gravel trail on your right. Firstly, we couldn’t even find this second alternative. Luckily, we met one other couple and together we figured out, also thanks to our maps, how to descend back towards our car.
The descent
This steeper descent leads via gravel trail pointed directly towards a lake in Hvannagil valley. You should clearly see this lake, so this will be your lead. Try finding a path leading to the right (not left) edge of the lake. It’s useful to have hiking poles at hand for this section, it can get slippery and a bit steep. Otherwise it’s pretty doable in good weather and in normal health conditions and fitness.
Hvannagil valley hike – the descent
After this descent, you can walk around the lake, or just have a picnic there, or both. At this point, you are already back down at the lowest altitude point of the trail. The only thing left, is to find the way back towards your car. This again took us a few moments, because the trail is not marked. That being said, you don’t have many options, so you will surely find your way. We made a mistake and turned too much to the right, where we got surrounded by a private property soon.
Instead, after passing the lake, we should have gone more to the left (straight ahead from the lake) and not turn right that soon. That way, we soon reached the huge pebbles area where our car was parked in roughly 10 minutes.
Hvannagil track
Hvannagil dirt track
After reaching Hvannagil valley car park, it’s possible to continue further following the dirt road, or better said a dirt track, along the river, deeper into highlands. We drove the track for a few more kilometers with our Land Cruiser and you definitely need a 4wd car for this first part of the track. Maybe even a super jeep for latter parts (which we haven’t driven yet).
Hvannagil golden valley track – views from the top
The first part of the track, right next to pebble “car park” of Hvannagil valley, is a narrow and a bit steep ascent on leading on the nearby orange hill. There are steep falls on your sides. Luckily, the ascent is not that long. Once you reach the top, amazing 360° views will open up all around you. It’s definitely worth doing this climb to see these views in good weather.
The track continues further along the river, more into the highlands, but we didn’t follow it anymore, due to the lack of time. There are some huts and settlements in the area, so the track should definitely be accessible in summer, I’m just not sure about the quality of the road, or whether there are any river crossings or not.
F980 – the road to Lónsöræfi
Views halfway into F980 Kollumulavegur
A long day has continued. Our next planned destination was a treacherous F-road called Kollumúlavegur, in other words F980, leading to a huge Lonsoraefi hiking area. F980 itself is not treacherous, however, there is one spot on F980 which makes this road one of the hardest-to-pass F-roads in Iceland. This spot is the huge river crossing right in the middle of Kollumúlavegur.
F980 Kollúmulavegur to lonsoraefi
But let’s start from the beginning. We had an amazingly beautiful weather when driving F980 and the surrounding views were simply magnificent. The road starts as a drive through lush, green valley. There’s a small river crossing somewhere around the first quarter of F980. The highlight of the drive came after driving for around 20 minutes, after the first (small) river crossing. We passed a pretty narrow part of the road with a steep fall on our right and then the most beautiful view of the day popped out.
Views at Jökulsá river from F980
On a beautiful day, you can observe endless arms of the river Jökulsá on your right. Some of them are drier, some of them heavier with more water. In the background, mountains of the Hvannagil area stand proudly. This makes for a really unique and picturesque scenery. We’ve even met two local photographs who were taking advantage of this amazingly beautiful day and making their photoshoot of river Jökulsá as well. We’ve taken some pictures of this unforgettable scenery, enjoyed the views and continued towards the biggest threat of the road F980.
Skyndidalsá river crossing
F980 – Kollumúlavegur to Lónsöræfi
This threat is the river crossing of the river Skyndidalsá. And this river crossing is huge. In terms of width and depth Skyndidalsá may be bigger than infamous Krossá in Thórsmörk. On our way to the river crossing we’ve met one local on an older, but bigger car than our Land Cruiser. I asked the driver whether he attempted to cross Skyndidalsá and he just replied “no, I didn’t have the guts, it’s just too big”. Nevertheless, we arrived at the river crossing anyway and made our own assessment.
D980 Kollumúlavegur Skyndidalsá river crossing
Our assessment was in line with that of the local guy. The crossing simply looked too big and dangerous to do, despite the road F980 being marked as “green”, i.e. open and passable on www.road.is. Even this mark is not everything, it’s better to turn back than to get your car drowned. We’ve seen several videos of cars getting entirely drown in Skyndidalsá on this river crossing of F980 (see below) and didn’t want to end up in a same way. That being said, we’ve admired the power of the river for a few moments, turned back and drove all the way back to ring road.
In a beautiful weather, F980 is definitely worth a drive at least up to the river Skyndidalsá , especially due to amazing views over river Jökulsá and Hvannagil in the background.
Vestrahorn
Vestrahorn, a.k.a. Stokksnes on an amazingly beautiful day
For our next stop we headed to the famous and popular Vestrahorn mountain. For the first time. Yes, we always rather avoided this touristy place, in the same way as we up to today still avoid trips like golden circle, because they are just too crowded for us. Anyway, let’s come back to Vestrahorn. Is Vestrahorn worth all its hype and is then Vestrahorn and Stokksnes worth visiting? Well, if you get a nice weather then we have to admit, it really is.
We were lucky to have almost completely clear skies. And that’s exactly one of the settings when we definitely recommend you should visit Vestrahorn. When, on the other hand, we do not recommend the visit, is a too foggy weather. If Vestrahorn is covered in mist, the entire scene loses most of its charm. This luckily wasn’t our case this time.
Vestrahorn black beach
We firstly bought 2 tickets for the area at the Viking café (yes, this is private property and you have to pay for the visit). We parked our car roughly on a halfway between Viking café and the Lighthouse. Then we simply walked and enjoyed a picturesque black sand beach. Although sunny, it was still pretty windy, but hey, that’s Iceland, right?
Next, we headed towards the artificial “Viking village” next to a Viking café. We decided to take a walk through the beach to reach the village from the east. And this was not a good idea. The beach soon started to be wet and there was no clear path leading to the Viking village. We spent more than half an hour just figuring out how to find a path to the Viking village without getting our feet wet.
Vestrahorn beach pic
We finally figured that out by zig-zagging in-between all of the puddles. But it took us ages. And the path was much longer than we originally expected. That being said, I recommend you don’t walk to the Viking village through beach but rather drive there and leave your car at the car park.
F985 – Jökulvegur
Amazingly beautiful sunset at the peak of F985, Jökulvegur, next to the Skalafellsjökull glacier
As the last adventure of the day, I planned an F-road drive and this time I was determined to finish the road until the end. My target was the road F985 – Jökulvegur, F-road leading to Skálafellsjökull glacier, branch of the biggest Icelandic glacier – Vatnajökull. I already knew that F985 doesn’t contain any river crossing so I expected just a mountain drive, which was exactly the case. But, as usually in Iceland, F985 is no ordinary mountain drive at all.
F985 Jökulvegur
F985 has probably the biggest number of zig-zag bends out of all roads I’ve driven in Iceland. F985 will lead you to a pretty high altitude through steep gravel road. F985 seems to be short on the map, but in reality, it felt to be quite a long drive. And the drive is not for those afraid of heights 🙂 Several parts of the road will test your guts.
F985 – Jökulvegur, views at Skalafellsjökull glacier
F985 mostly serves as an access road to the glacier. Tour companies take their jeeps with snowmobiles and transport tourists together with snowmobiles directly to the glacier via this road. Once you reach the final bits of F985 in the highest altitude, you will understand what I’m talking about. Hint: you will be really close to the glacier! The downside: F985 gets rougher and harder to drive. At one point, F985 was just too rough and steep even for our Land Cruiser. At that point, already being really close to Skalafellsjökull glacier, I decided to stop, take pictures and turn back.
F985 Vatnajokull glacier
F985 is a pretty adventurous, exciting and also a bit dangerous drive. The main “attraction” of the road is the glacier in the end. Is F985 worth driving for someone who is in Iceland for the first time? Probably not, and it might also be dangerous without prior experience in driving roads like this. For me, F985 was definitely worth a drive for another out-of-this-planet driving experience in Iceland.
Northern lights in Rauðaberg
We finally headed to our accommodation, which was located on a remote farm of Raudaberg. This is a great spot for hunting down the northern lights, if they are present. We stayed at Rauðaberg on a first day of September and we were lucky enough to already see the northern lights, although weak! We had totally clear skies and some aurora activity, so we simply headed out towards midnight and in a few minutes, we were able to take this picture:
Northern lights in Rauðaberg, 1st September
Beware, though, that in reality aurora at the time of our visit was not as green as the picture shows. It was more like white or faint-green. The entire magic was then performed by the camera of my phone. Nevertheless, it was a beautiful experience anyway.
About Us Dear Iceland lovers! We are Igor, Katka (+family), and love Iceland with all our hearts. We've spent 3000+ hours hiking, driving, and studying Iceland. Highlands, F-roads, epic Hikes, and wild Hot Springs are our favorites. We share everything we know about Iceland on this blog. Read our references.
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