Guide

How to Visit Langisjór lake: Full Guide

How to Visit Langisjór lake: Full Guide

Lake Langisjór is one of our favorite areas in Icelandic highlands. Langisjór may not be the most beautiful place in Iceland, but its vibe is very special to us. A crystal clear, giant lake in the middle of a moon-like desert surrounded by somewhat scary silence has earned a place in our hearts.

Visiting Langisjór is actually not that hard. It belongs to the more accessible parts of the highland. There are many ways to reach Langisjór, and each one is a bit different and exciting.

We have visited the lake many times, and we believe it is a bit underrated. That’s one of the reasons why we write this Langisjór guide, where we sum up all our experiences about the roads, hikes, and beautiful spots around Langisjór.

Langisjór Map

How to get to Langisjór

In short, the easiest way to get to Langisjór is by taking the mountain roads F208 and F235. You can reach it only in summer when the roads are open for visitors, and you have to drive a 4×4 car. No buses, no guided tours and also no super jeep tours visit Langisjór. Well, unless you take our private super jeep tour.

In more detail, Lake Langisjór is well hidden on the edge of the southern and central Icelandic Highlands. The only way to reach the lake is by the so-called F-roads or highland roads. Besides F-roads, there are also several dirt tracks leading to Langisjór, but these are even harsher and tougher to drive than F-roads.

F235 to Langisjor

Out-of-this-world landscapes surrounding the F235 road towards Langisjór lake

The easy way – F235

The least problematic access road to Langisjór is the F-road F235. It’s a beautiful road that never gets boring for us, and it’s also one of the easiest F-roads in Iceland.

There are only small river crossings and streams or puddles on F235, so it doesn’t require an extensive river crossing experience. The road quality is very good, with no huge potholes or any other traps. Any 4WD car is fine for F235.

However, you first need to get to F235 somehow. The only connecting road to F235 is a bit more difficult F-road F208. Now, F208 is a long highland road connecting the south coast with central Iceland, leading east of Landmannalaugar. F235 is located exactly in the middle of F208.

langisjor from sveinstindur hike

Views over Langisjór lake from the Sveinstindur hike

This means you have two options:

Both of these F208 route options require crossing small to medium-sized rivers and hence also some river crossing experience and adhering to river crossing rules.

It’s best you drive at least a medium-sized 4×4 car, like the Dacia Duster, and not the smallest 4WD cars, like the Toyota Yaris Cross or Kia Sportage. In good weather conditions, you may pass in any car, when driving well. However, when it rains a lot, you may have problems. Thus, our recommendation is at least a medium-sized 4WD car.

langisjor hikes iceland

Langisjór lake offers amazing hiking trails for any hiking enthusiast

The hard way – other roads

Besides the relatively smooth F235 road, there are also other ways to reach Langisjór. None of them is easy, though. They all require former 4×4 driving experience, crossing medium-sized rivers, and are more for 4×4 enthusiasts rather than someone who wants to get quickly to Langisjór.

All of these alternative routes are actually not even F-roads. They are just dirt tracks. This means they are harder to drive, and your car rental insurance may not apply. So either consult your rental company before driving them, or you have to take the risk if something happens, paying for it yourself. We‘ve driven all of these tracks, and as 4×4 enthusiasts, we love them!

Skælingar Blautulón track

Skaelingar Blautulón track is the only track leading to Langisjór from the southeast. There’s one significant river crossing right in the beginning, close to Hólaskjól highland center. Afterward, Skælingar gets a bit rough, with some steeper inclines and declines. We even encountered snowfields on the track a few times in July!

The main highlight and, at the same time, an obstacle of Skælingar Blautulón track is the picturesque lake Blautulón. Spoiler alert – you have to cross the lake with your car! How? Read further below, and you will get to know it 🙂

You have to drive at least a large 4×4 car on this road, ideally a super jeep.

Faxasund track

Faxasund track is a challenging dirt road leading to Langisjór from the northwest. It’s a beautiful and versatile track, great for 4×4 lovers. You will have to overcome small to medium-sized river crossings, and there are several steeper hillside sections.

The most difficult part is close to the junction with F208. It consists of millions of sharp stones, and you need to take special care not to damage both your tires and undercarriage. When we drove the track in July, part of it close to Langisjór was also severely damaged.

You have to drive at least a large 4×4 car on Faxasund, ideally a super jeep.

Botnlangalón track

By far, the most difficult track that will get you to Langisjór is Botnlangalón, named after the lake that it leads to in the first place. It’s the northernmost and westernmost track. This is the track only for super jeeps. We drove it in a 33” modified Land Cruiser and barely made it!

Botnlangalón track crosses harsh, moon-like landscapes and is mostly unmaintained with tons of bigger holes, bumps, very steep ascents and declines, and, of course, river crossings as well. It took us a long time to finish the track, and I’m not sure I would drive it again.

However, there’s one fantastic highlight right at the end of this track. Which one? Read about our experience below, and you will get to know 🙂

When to visit Langisjór

Sveinstindur hiking trail

Sveinstindur hiking trail, somewhere around half towards the peak. Fog and rain are typical for this area.

You can visit Langisjór only in summer, when the roads F208 and F235 leading to the lake are open, i.e. marked green or dashed green on Icelandic Road Map. The roads typically open sometime between mid-June and mid-July, and they become impassable during the course of September.

To have the highest chances of open roads, it’s best to visit Langisjór between mid-July and early September. This period coincides with the peak of Icelandic summer and dryness of the highland roads.

Things to do at Langisjór

The area around the lake is no Disneyland. It’s a remote part of the highlands with no special attractions, however, with countless remarkable natural sceneries. Those who enjoy isolated places and untouched desolate landscapes will fall in love with Langisjór.

Hike

langisjor hiking iceland

Hiking is the best way to enjoy a visit to Langisjór to the fullest

There’s no wonder the main attraction in the area is hiking. Langisjór is also close to other popular hiking areas of the highlands, like Eldgjá or Laki craters. Most likely, the most beautiful hike here is a trek to the peak of Sveinstindur.

Drive rough roads

Off-road and 4×4 enthusiasts will love the area around Langisjór, which has many wonderful and difficult roads to try. Be careful, though, what you mean by a word “off-road”. It’s illegal and strictly punished to drive off any road in Iceland.

It has to be an official road or track with a name you plan to drive on. So, if we use the term “off-road” for driving on Icelandic tracks like Blautulón, because they are rough, it’s OK. But never drive off the road in Iceland, it damages the soil, often even forever, and it’s strictly prohibited!

In other words, off-road driving is forbidden in Iceland, but off-road lovers will enjoy countless Icelandic F-roads and dirt tracks due to their versatile terrain and surroundings!

Lake Langisjór

What else could possibly be the main highlight than the lake itself? Lake Langisjór is beautiful and fascinating. When we saw the lake for the first time, we were surprised by the absolute silence in the area. The word tranquil is weak to use. If we talk about Langisjór, it’s even calmer than that.

The lake itself is also quite well accessible. You could drive pretty close to the lake and leave your car at the adjacent designated car parks. Then, you can either walk around the lake, climb a nearby hill to get a view of the lake, or take one of the longer Langisjór hiking trails to admire it from more angles and viewpoints.

Langisjór lake

Lake just next to the Langisjór campsite mark on the map. Langisjór is a fishing paradise.

Fishing

On our first visit to Langisjór, we quickly realized this is a sought-after area also due to its incredible fishing opportunities. Crystal clear water of the lake is not only mesmerizing to look at, but it also seems to be loved by the lake’s inhabitants – some tasty fish.

Be sure to study the Icelandic fishing rules well and get all the necessary permits before fishing in Iceland.

Camping

Langisjór campsite

This was supposed to be Langisjór campsite according to maps. It just turned out to be a remote place with nobody being there.

Langisjór campsite is not huge in size but fits nicely in the simple and harsh surroundings of the lake. It’s great mainly for those who plan on embarking on some of the multi-day hikes around the lake.

There’s a car park, a warden’s hut, typically occupied only in summer, and also two standard, modern flush toilets 🙂

Langisjór hiking trails

langisjor hiking trails map

Lake Langisjór hiking trails map (click to enlarge)

There are three main Langisjór hiking trails:

  • the Sveinstindur trail
  • the trail around Langisjór lake
  • the trail leading around Uxatindar mountains to Eldgjá.

Sveinstindur

Length: 4km
Time: 2 hours
Difficulty: moderate
Hiking trail map: Sveinstindur trail

Sveinstindur is the tallest peak right next to the Langisjór lake. It offers the most spectacular views of Langisjór as well as the entire moon-like area. It’s more than just worth a short but intense, roughly 1 hour long climb up the narrow and rocky path. This shortest trail to Sveinstindur is a well-marked out-and-back hike.

Sveinstindur is an Icelandic hidden gem almost nobody writes about, and we highly recommend hiking it if you are in good physical shape. The summit of Sveinstindur is one of the most magical places in Iceland. Make sure you visit it on a clear day, though otherwise you won’t see a thing.

Around Sveinstindur

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Sveinstindur peak in the distance

Length: 11km
Time:  4 hours
Difficulty: difficult
Hiking trail map: Around Sveinstindur trail

If you want to spend more time around Sveinstindur and Langisjór, you can take a Sveinstindur loop trail. This circular trail copies the southern edge of the lake and then turns south as an ascent to Sveinstindur.

This part of the trail is not well marked, and it’s best hiked later in the season when you can see at least some steps you can follow. It’s only for seasoned hikers who are not afraid to trek off the beaten path.

Around Langisjór lake

hiking around langisjor lake

Hiking around the entire Langisjór lake isn’t easy and should be prepared well in advance

Length: 50km
Time:  2 to 3 days
Difficulty: very difficult
Hiking trail map: Around Langisjor trail

If you are looking for a totally deserted multi-day hike in a scenic area, you can hike around the entire lake! The trail is not well marked, and you should have some experience with multi-day hikes in cold climate countries before taking it.

You may also encounter lake and river crossings, so it’s crucial you’ve already done some before. Ideally, you don’t want to be alone on this hike as well. We’ve also heard that online maps like Alltrails or Wikiloc are not precise in this area, so please be aware of that!

Uxatindar – Eldgjá

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Bird’s eye view over the Eldgjá Canyon when hiking to Gjátindur

Length: 30-40km
Time:  2 to 3 days
Difficulty: very difficult
Hiking trail map: Uxatindar Eldgja trail

The last hiking option is to traverse all the way to Eldgjá. This is a multi-day hike that requires sleeping over in a mountain hut. The nearest huts are located at Sveinstindur, in Stóragil at Skælingar, or at Hólaskjól. You have to reserve the accommodation in advance at either Útivist or Hólaskjól.

The hike follows the Skaftá river along Skælingar and ends up in Eldgjá. It’s an excellent option for those who want to experience the wild surroundings of the Skælingar track, plus the scenic Uxatindar mountains on top of it, but don’t want to drive this rough road.

Our Tips

sveinstindur peak selfie

Sveinstindur peak selfie

  • Plan the trip to Langisjór outside of heavy fog. If it’s too foggy, you will not see a thing, and it will not make much sense to drive all the way here.
  • Take hiking poles if you plan to try any of the regular hikes, like Sveinstindur. They are pretty useful basically for any longer hike in Iceland.
  • If it’s your first time in the Icelandic Highlands, take the easiest route, F235, both on your way to and from Langisjór.
  • If you are in good shape and you catch a clear day, be sure to hike to the top of Sveinstindur! It’s a once-in-a-lifetime experience!
  • If you have enough time and like to pack a lot of things into one day, you can combine a trip to Langisjór with visiting Eldgjá. Go and see Ófærufoss, at least; it’s gorgeous!

Our Langisjór experience

We’ve been to Langisjór many times. Below we chose our three most memorable experiences you may find helpful.

First trip: F235 to Lake and 1st Sveinstindur Attempt

We visited Langisjór for the first time during the summer of 2020. Yes, exactly during huge Covid lockdowns. And it was magical. Enchanting. Otherworldly. Tourism in Iceland was down by 90%, and we were basically the only ones driving the roads on that day. And we were a bit scared, to be honest.

F235 towards Langisjór

Surreal landscapes on road F235 towards Langisjór lake

This was the first time we’d driven an F-road. And we weren’t sure what to do. We followed all the theoretical river crossing advice to the last point but were scared anyway. That being said, we gained a lot of helpful experience throughout the trip. You can read in detail about our first trip to Langisjór and the Icelandic Highlands.

Long story short, we took an F208 south from Vik and then an F235 to reach Langisjór. F235 is the easiest and pretty harmless way to get to Langisjór, as it contains only small to medium-sized river crossings and no other real obstacles. Still, we remained in awe throughout the entire day. The surrounding landscapes were simply amazing.

Sveinstindur near Langisjor

The upper part of the hike on Sveinstindur near Langisjor lake on a foggy day with slight rain

Proposing on Sveinstindur

Our (or better said, mine) ultimate aim was to hike the tallest peak of the Langisjor area called Sveinstindur, where I wanted to propose to my then fiancé, now wife, Katka. The hike started well. However, as is often the case in Iceland, the weather changed rapidly and turned into a pouring rain. This, combined with a rather steep ascent seemed a bit dangerous and very uncomfortable.

langisjor sveinstindur proposal

A few seconds after the (successful) marriage proposal on the way to Sveinstindur

At some point, Katka had enough and turned back. My plan to propose at the top went to pieces, so I had to improvise. Hence, I proposed right there on the ridge. And yes, you can guess, she definitely didn’t expect that 🙂 And a sour hike quickly evolved into one of the happiest memories of our lives. If you are interested in more details of our first-time Langisjór itinerary feel free to read our detailed article on it.

Second trip: Rough Roads and 2nd Sveinstindur Attempt

This time we wanted to try even more remote places and roads. Langisjór, Skælingar track, Blautulón track and Sveinstindur hike. That was our schedule for our last day in the highlands of southern Iceland.

I really wanted to drive the scarcely visited Skælingar dirt track to Langisjór 🙂 Thus, we went for Langisjór!

Beware, the Skaelingar and Blautulon tracks we drove are just dirt tracks. Not even F-roads. This means they are even harder to drive than F-roads. Always check with your rental company to see if it allows for such roads, choose your car wisely, and study the roads in advance. Mostly, only super jeeps are permitted to drive the dirt tracks.

langisjor blue river valley

Langisjór Blue River Valley Viewpoint

The weather was merciful to us, and the day turned out to be pretty nice along our road despite the mixed forecast. We didn’t experience any rain, and the fog was present only at some spots (like Sveinstindur once again…). That night, we were based near Hekla, so it didn’t make sense to drive to Langisjór from the south (F208 south), so we drove from the north.

F225 and F208

I was sure I didn’t want to drive the boring, bumpy, and full of tourists Road 208 (F208 north). We turned to F225, Landmannaleið, which is an “F-road highway” —a very good quality F-road and a bit underrated road—at least compared to 208, which is much worse in both the views and the quality. Landmannaleid is also shorter than 208 north, so we soon reached the Landmannalaugar area.

The weather at Landmannalaugar was amazing. It actually seemed like the only place with clear blue skies and the sun shining everywhere. The views from our drive around the Landmannalaugar mountains were amazing. And, we faced a tough dilemma – whether to go for an unknown (and probably worse) weather at Langisjór or whether to hike again at Landmannalaugar. We’d been there already and done the hikes, though not in such great weather. Finally, I decided to risk it and go for Langisjór.

f208 landmannalaugar iceland

Amazingly beautiful roads around Landmannalaugar

Instead of the harmless F-road of F235, I wanted to try more adventurous tracks this time. The track I chose is called the Skaelingar track and it’s located north of Holaskjól highlands centre, just next to the river crossing (and the ranger’s hut). Skælingar track is a not much-known detour from F208 south that not many travelers pursue due to it not being well-known. Great highlands destination 🙂

The visibility got much worse 10 minutes south of Landmannalaugar already, much sooner than expected. We drove in a giant fog and couldn’t see more than a few meters ahead of us. However, we knew that all of the river crossings on F208 should be harmless – we’d done them a year before in Dacia Duster, and this year, the water level was even lower. This was exactly the case – no problems at all with the fords at F208 and really shallow rivers.

Skælingar dirt track

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Skælingar track before Skælingar hut

After some foggy driving, we first arrived at the junction of F208 and F235. We continued driving the F208 and drove by another hidden detour – Faxasund track – which is actually a third track (along F235 and Skaelingar) leading to Langisjór. Faxasund is, however, said to be the most difficult out of these three paths, so this time, we chose the second one – the Skælingar track. Lastly, we crossed the first river at F208 south, next to the ranger’s hut and north of Holaskjól, and finally arrived at the hidden detour towards the Skælingar track.

skælingar track river crossing

Skælingar track river crossing

There’s an exciting medium to big river crossing (more medium at the time of our visit) right at the beginning of the track. So, if you don’t feel like doing it, you may turn back right at the beginning. For this kind of river crossing, you should have past experience with river crossings and take the proper car, i.e., at least a Land Cruiser size or some kind of super jeep. Of course, it may be doable with Dacia Duster if you are lucky, but you may also fly with Dacia Duster if you are lucky – this doesn’t mean it’s recommended, nor responsible!

Skælingar track iceland

Skælingar track

The first river crossing on the Skaelingar track is also the only river crossing. To arrive at the other bank, you have to actually drive tens of meters IN the river bed (similarly to e.g. F210 river crossing or Strútur track river crossing). This is always a fascinating and memorable experience. With our 33” Land Cruiser with snorkel, we didn’t have any problems with completing the ford.

The Skælingar track then continued in the form of the narrow dirt tracks in green surroundings of grass and moss. We passed along the big Mercedes Unimog, which was struggling a bit driving these very narrow tracks, but the driver looked to be really enjoying the drive anyway 🙂 He was kind enough to let us overtake him at the earliest convenience.

Skælingar blautulon track langisjor iceland

Between Skælingar track and Blautulón track to Langisjór

The landscapes were picturesque, almost along the entire road. After some 30 minutes of driving we arrived at the Skaelingar hut situated remotely in beautiful surroundings. It’s possible to take 2 different paths towards Langisjór from here. I already knew I wanted to take the longer, but much more exciting and picturesque route leading not next to the, but THROUGH Blautulón lake. Yes, through. More about that soon.

Blautulón lake track

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Blautulón track shortly before the Blautulón lake

The dirt track towards Blautulón lake led in between little hills and was a track consisting of both the gravel and the volcanic ash without any major obstacles nor river crossings. It was steeper at times but definitely manageable. The most exciting part of the Blautulón track was about to come. Once you arrive at the lake, the road suddenly disappears. Where it leads, I already knew because I had studied it and was really looking forward to it 🙂

blautulón lake drive iceland

Unforgettable drive on the edge of the Blautulón lake.

We were lucky to have amazingly beautiful weather at Blautulón with partially blue skies, little fog, no wind at all, and an occasional sun. We were even able to have a picnic at Blautulón wearing just T-shirts! God bless this kind of Icelandic summer. And all of that in between stunningly beautiful mountains and the blue lake just in front of us. And us being entirely alone there. A once-in-a-lifetime moments for us.

As I already hinted, after we moved on from the front of the Blautulón lake, the road didn’t just continue in an ordinary way. The Blautulón track leads through the edge of the lake itself. You have to drive inside the lake, at the bank of the lake, for several hundreds of meters. For me, as a road enthusiast, this was an amazingly unique drive. After passing Blautulón, the track soon connects to the final part of F235.

Sveinstindur hike attempt No. 2

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Hiking to Sveinstindur peak next to Langisjór lake

Sveinstindur is the highest accessible peak in the Langisjór area with amazing views around the surrounding landscapes in every direction. When the visibility is good. And this was the catch once again for us. A year ago, I had a plan to propose to my (at that time) girlfriend after climbing up the Sveinstindur. However, the weather had different plans 🙂 There was no visibility at all, and it started to rain a lot roughly around midway towards Sveinstindur. Hence, we decided to turn back. Hence, I proposed (just) on the hiking trail.

sveinstindur hike trail

Sveinstindur hiking trail ridge

A year later, our weather was much better. Blue skies with occasional clouds and even a shining sun. However, the peak of Sveinstindur, as the only one, was covered in fog for the entire time we drove and hiked around. We gave it a try anyway and climbed a few meters further than last time, but we still arrived at the point where everything above this point was entirely covered in fog. And it wasn’t getting any better. The trail from this point above is also pretty exposed, with massive falls on both sides. Thus, for the second time, we gave up on our plans to reach the top.

langisjor lake view from sveinstindur

View over the Langisjór lake from Sveinstindur trail

Nevertheless, the views around the area were still stunningly beautiful. Judge it yourself, here are the pictures 🙂 This time we were lucky enough to see almost the entire Langisjór lake.

Sitting in the car for almost the entire day, we were still hungry for a nice hike. However, the weather at Sveinstindur started to worsen. The fog was falling down, and the clouds were coming. We hiked back to our car when it started to rain. We decided to drive back towards Landmannalaugar to see if the situation was still as good there weather-wise as was the case in the morning. On our way there, it started to rain considerably, and an entire area was covered by fog. Luckily, we had already seen an amazing F235 a year before.

Third trip: The Roughest Tracks and Sveinstindur hike

This time, we wanted to take adrenaline one step further and decided to drive the most difficult road combinations to Langisjór. We drove via the Botnlangalón track and Faxasund track.

Botnlangalón track

botnlangalon rough track iceland

Botnlangalón track – can you see the road? We often had to stop and search for it for quite some time.

Botnlangalón track is one of the most demanding tracks I’ve driven in Iceland, maybe even the most difficult one. Yes, there are some notoriously known dangerous river crossings, like Krossá on F249 to Thórsmörk or Skyndidalsá river on F980. These are undeniably both treacherous and impassable, even for large cars like Land Cruiser. However, none of these roads have such rugged terrain as the Botnlangalón track has.

Botnlangalón track is very scarcely maintained, and the road quality, pardon me, sucks. The track begins roughly 10km northwest of F235 and connects southern F208 with the lake Botnlangalón. Firstly, you will also encounter another lake along the way, which is called Grænalón.

Once you reach the Botnlangalón lake with the tiny (and usually closed) mountain hut, you have two options. You can either turn back and drive the same road again, or you can traverse east and connect to Faxasund track (another “pearl” road). From Faxasund, you can take it even more to the east and arrive at Langisjór, which we did in the first place.

What makes it so difficult

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Here it is – the Botnlangalón lake with a private hut

But let’s come back to the Botnlangalón track. Why do I consider it one of the most difficult tracks in Iceland? Well, first and foremost, there are countless huge potholes and uneven road parts, often a 1 foot deep or even deeper (20-40 centimeters). This means you need to have a ground clearance corresponding to this height to pass the road. Or, an infinite patience to drive around these spots at 3km/h (2mph) speed. I’m not exaggerating. This is the speed at which you will be driving most of the time so as not to damage your car.

We drove the Botnlangalón track with our 33” modified Land Cruiser, and I’m more than sure we’ve hit the limit of our car on this road. We made it only so-so and luckily managed not to scrap anything on the car, nor hit any obstacle.

That being said, the road was both magical and annoying. Magical, because the remote surroundings, valleys with river crossings, steep uphill followed by steep downhill every once in a while, all made it totally unique and unforgettable. Annoying because it felt like a never-ending road when driving on average at 5-10km/h (3-6mph). Pictures don’t do this track justice. It looks easy in the photos, but it is not!

River crossings

Here we were searching for where the road actually was supposed to be. Not an easy search:

Besides tough terrain, there are also several river crossings, most of them with medium-sized rivers. The main problem with Botnlangalón river crossings, though, is not the depth of the rivers, but the unclear path/road.

Often, we had a problem identifying where the road actually leads because there were no marks indicating that. We had to get out of the car and study where the road was about to continue almost every time we encountered some river crossing. This only added to both the adventure and also the time needed to finish the track.

It finally took us more than 1.5 hours to finish this 22km (13 miles) long piece of s… track. I would say, it was definitely worth the adventure. On the other hand, I wouldn’t drive this road again. Botnlangalón track is, as Icelanders used to say, one of these roads you drive only once in your life.

Driving in the river bank

Once we reached the Botnlangalón lake, we stopped for a lunch break, entirely alone with no one in the radius of tens of kilometers. This is both great but also a bit terrifying, in case any problem occurs. We borrowed a satellite device, just in case any emergency happens in places like this. After our lunch, we headed towards lake Langisjór. This meant we had to traverse east, firstly to reach the Faxasund track and secondly to reach Langisjór itself. And the first traverse is a very special one!

The part of the track from Botnlangalón Lake to Faxasund track actually leads through the canyon, which is full of water! The track leads in the river bank, and you will be driving at the bottom of the river canyon. Once again, nothing is impossible in Iceland when it comes to weirdly beautiful roads right? Driving through this river bank was again a once-in-a-lifetime experience for us we totally enjoyed.

Traverse track to Langisjór

botnlangalon hardest f road iceland

Botnlangalón is one of the hardest F-roads in Iceland (it’s actually not even an F-road, just a dirt track)

After finishing the incredible river drive, the traverse track towards Langisjór continues via harsh, deserted, stony roads with frequent uphill and downhill drives. We remember 1 or 2 more river crossings, none of them being that deep, though, with at maximum medium-sized river crossings. This part of the drive was the easiest one, though also very remote and rough.

To drive the Botnlangalón track, you need to have a modified jeep, a.k.a. super jeep. Our 33” Land Cruiser from MyCar was a minimum, and we’ve almost hit the limits of our car. Other examples of vehicles being capable of this road are Land Rover Super Defender, and, maybe with a lot of caution also a good old 31’’ Land Rover Defender with snorkel. Other than these cars, go only for tires of size 35” and bigger.

Sveinstindur hike experience

On a third attempt, we finally managed to reach Sveinstindur without it being completely covered in fog. The weather wasn’t ideal, with a lot of clouds and also a mixed weather forecast, i.e. definitely not a forecast of a sunny day with clear skies.

Nevertheless, once we arrived at the bottom of the trailhead to Sveinstindur, we could see the summit clearly, indicating good chances of no fog at least for some while. Having said that, we immediately got out of the car and hurried up to hike Sveinstindur for the 3rd time.

sveinstindur hiking trail iceland

Sveinstindur hiking trail on a clear day

We had no rain and no strong winds, so when it comes to Iceland, almost an ideal weather. The ascent all the way to Sveinstindur took us, with a pretty quick pace, only around 45 minutes. The trail to Sveinstindur is well marked and the ascent is steep and demanding, but not very long.

The first part of the hike is easier, while the second half becomes narrower and steeper. I can’t imagine hiking it in strong winds or during strong rain. I recommend the hike only to those fit enough. But, it’s not technical, no chains, no sharp ridges, just steep ascent. We highly recommend you use hiking poles.

Views got better and better with every additional meter climbed. Once we reached the top, we were finally able to admire one of the most beautiful views of Iceland, views from the peak of Sveinstindur. On a day with good visibility, you can enjoy the sight of the entire colossal lake of Langisjór together with all of the surrounding areas. If you zoom well enough, you can also spot many of the unbelievable tracks and roads like Faxasund, F235, or Blautulón track.

sveinstindur hike langisjor near the top

Near the top of the Sveinstindur hike, overlooking the Langisjór lake

The entire hike took us 2 hours as a roundtrip, including a 30-minute stop at the summit. Remember to dress well, even on a nice and seemingly warm day. It’s much colder up at the top, and you can easily get sick when a cold wind blows at you being sweat after the climb. It was only around 7°C / 45°F up at Sveinstindur, with the wind making the cold feeling even stronger.

The descent from Sveinstindur was in my opinion even nicer than ascent, because we had all these amazing views right in front of us, along the entire trail. I would definitely come back to Sveinstindur again on a sunny day. It’s more than just worth a long drive and a quite short hike.

Faxasund track

On our way back, we still hadn’t had enough of the difficult dirt tracks, so we took even the last one we hadn’t yet, the Faxasund track.

Faxasund track is a beautiful alternative to F235 to Langisjór. Just a lot rougher, tougher, and longer. It’s the third track in the series of more difficult roads leading to Langisjór. The first one is the Skælingar Blautulón track, the Botnlangalón track comes second, and the Faxasund track is the third. Faxasund connects southern F208, about 8km (5mi) northwest of F235, with lake Langisjór.

faxasund track langisjor iceland

Damaged Faxasund track with a lot of deep holes. Pictures don’t do it justice.

Faxasund is a very rough track with a lot of sharp stones and small to medium-sized river crossings. I’ve read on other websites that Faxasund has treacherous river crossings – this definitely isn’t true, and only illustrates the point that other websites often just simplify too much.

River crossings are not the main problem of this track. The biggest obstacle is the part of the track close to F208 with many sharp stones. There, you have to drive very carefully and take huge care of your tires.

Faxasund combines all kinds of different terrains and sceneries. Starting from the south, you will first encounter some steep ascents and descents on a very rough terrain consisting of billions of pieces of broken stones. This is the most challenging part of the Faxasund track – you need to have huge tires with lower air pressure and high ground clearance to pass without damaging your car. The views at this part of the track are one of the most beautiful ones – with many remote and lonely hills and valleys all around you.

faxasund iceland sharp stones

Navigating through sharp stones of Faxasund track at 5mp/h

To drive Faxasund, we highly recommend driving at least a Hilux/Land Cruiser style jeep, ideally an even bigger/modified super jeep with tires 31” and bigger. Never with Dacia Duster, Subaru Forester, or any similar small to medium 4wd city SUVs.

What follows are some small to medium-sized river crossings, definitely doable with a large 4WD car. When it comes to scenery, even more hills and valleys appear everywhere, and you have to drive through many of them. In our case, in the second half of July, we even witnessed a lot of snow on nearby hills. The winter before our visit was a very hard one, though, leaving many snowfields everywhere in the highlands, even in August.

Thirdly, the terrain will change into driving in volcanic ash and on clay/mud tracks. Nearby mountains slowly start to resemble the Langisjór area – black ash hills with green tops. Driving on Mars? Almost. Definitely some out-of-this-world landscapes. Finally, you’re gonna drive on several hills composed of little stones, so this will be yet another different surface to drive on. Faxasund is a very versatile track.

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Posted by Igor in Guide, Highlands, 3 comments
How to visit Hornstrandir: Full Hiking Guide 2025

How to visit Hornstrandir: Full Hiking Guide 2025

Hornstrandir is one of the last places on earth where you can still safely hike in untouched nature and enjoy full remoteness without the internet, cell phone, and any other fellow tourists.

We decided to write this guide on how to visit the Hornstrandir Nature Reserve because hiking in Hornstrandir is neither easy nor well accessible. To explore this northernmost corner of Iceland, you need to plan everything well in advance and pray for good weather.

For those willing to put up all the effort to conquer Hornstrandir, the reward is huge, though! This secluded peninsula offers endless hiking opportunities, many picturesque fjords, arctic foxes playing with your tent, and lots of moments to clear your mind and contemplate your life.

In this guide, we compile all the information we have about Hornstrandir from locals, our friends, and visitors who have hiked here recently, as well as numerous hard-to-find Icelandic online sources.

Hornstrandir Map

Our interactive Hornstrandir map displays all the campsites in Hornstrandir, ferry stops, 26 hiking trails, accommodations, all emergency shelters, and many interesting places to see:

Beware!!! Use only main hiking trails if you don’t have enough previous experience with Hornstrandir! The secondary trails may be very dangerous. Several visitors have almost died there. They should be taken only with a local guide or if you are highly experienced in the area!

How to visit Hornstrandir

The only way to reach Hornstrandir is by using a ferry from Ísafjörður or Bolungarvik or by hiking for multiple days from the mainland in Westfjords. There are no roads in Hornstrandir. Once there, your only way of transportation is hiking.

It’s important to say that visiting Hornstrandir is not easy. If you are looking for a laid-back trip without much effort, stay away from this part of Iceland. Just getting to Hornstrandir requires careful planning, and if you want to hike it, you have to prepare even more thoroughly.

Hornstrandir is also no place for those with a fear of heights or mobility issues. This is a hiking-only region and the hiking is not the easiest, although not the most hardcore one as well.

Ferry

There are currently three ferry companies running boat transfers to Hornstrandir from Westfjords:

  • Sjóferðir – departs from Ísafjörður
  • Borea Adventures – departs from Ísafjörður
  • Hornstrandir Tours – departs from Bolungarvík

They typically operate the boats from early June until early September. See all the current Hornstrandir ferry schedules here:

hornstrandir ferry schedule 2025

Hornstrandir ferry schedule for 2025 – a boat run by Borea Adventures, 5% coupon code: EPICICELAND

Borea Adventures ferry stops at six different stops – Aðalvík, Grunnavík, Hesteyri, Hornvik, and Veidileysufjörður.

The ferry by Sjóferðir also stops at Fljótavík and Hrafnfjörður upon request.

The Hornstrandir Tours ferry leaving from Bolungarvík stops at all stops above and also at Slétta, Hlöðuvík, Lónafjörður, and Flæðareyri.

You have to book the ferry in advance. The boat may be either full or may not depart at all if there are not enough passengers.

Guided tours

hornstrandir guided tour

Multi-day Hornstrandir guided tour by Borea Adventures

The easiest and safest way to visit Hornstrandir is to attend a guided tour. All the planning is handled by a guide. The main downside of a guided tour is that you will not see as much as you possibly can when hiking alone. Additionally, you won’t be alone, which means a part of Hornstrandir’s magic will be gone.

There are two main tour companies operating guided trips to Hornstradir – Borea Adventures and West Tours. Both companies are running their tours from Ísafjörður in Westfjords. Apart from tours, Borea also runs a ferry, as mentioned above.

5% discount code on all Hornstrandir Tours and Ferries by Borea Adventures: EPICICELAND

Both tour providers offer day hikes as well as multi-day treks across Hornstrandir, all with experienced local guides.

All tours have to be booked in advance and can be canceled due to unfavorable weather with a refund or a new proposed date.

When to visit Hornstrandir

when to visit hornstrandir

When to visit Hornstrandir? Only in summer. Even then, snowfields can be present. Photo by Rob Oo, CC BY 2.0

In short, you can visit Hornstrandir only in summer and only when the weather is favorable. This means no strong wind, no heavy rain, and definitely no weather alerts.

Planning is crucial when it comes to visiting Hornstrandir. The same applies to weather. I know it’s hard, but it’s essential to plan your trip to happen over a nice weather period. Otherwise, it may just turn into suffering rather than joy.

Discount codes on Icelandic Guided tours and Car rentals.

Season

You can visit Hornstrandir from early June until early September when the ferries are running. The main season also coincides with the time when Hornstrandir is partially or mostly snow-free. This is also when the weather is the mildest, with the lowest number of storms and weather alerts.

Hiking trails in Hornstrandir are typically best accessible between mid-July and the end of August when there’s only a little snow and temperatures reach their peaks.

Weather

hornstrandir arctic fox

Hornstrandir has by far the highest chances of spotting arctic foxes in Iceland!

Weather in Hornstrandir can be your biggest friend and also the biggest enemy. Simply said, it’s extreme. On a bad day, wind can reach hurricane-force strength and on a nice day, you can even sunbathe easily. That’s Hornstrandir, be ready for it!

In an ideal case, you should wait for a week or two of a stable and mild weather forecast. This is a good time to visit Hornstrandir. In reality, however, this is easier said than done. How are you supposed to know what the weather will be like at the time of your visit? Well, you can’t know. This basically leaves you with two options:

  1. Plan for fixed dates. In this case, be ready to cancel everything when the weather gets really bad. Or be ready to experience fog, rain, and wind throughout your entire trip. This can easily happen.
  2. Be flexible. Very flexible. Be ready to reschedule, postpone, shorten your trip, or whatever is needed to avoid harsh weather and maximize the time spent under favorable weather.

Always check the weather only on the official Icelandic meteorological office website. This is the most precise forecast. The longer it forecasts, the less precise it is, but it’s still the best one available.

25 hidden gems in Iceland nobody writes about.

Most Beautiful Spots in Hornstrandir

Below is the list of seven spots many consider to be the most beautiful places in Hornstrandir.

1. Skálarkambur pass views

most beautiful place hornstrandir skalarkambur

Skálarkambur pass offers one-of-its-kind views over Hloðuvík fjord. Picture by Reinhold Seiz.

Skálarkambur Pass is one of the most beautiful places in Hornstrandir, offering breathtaking views of Hloðuvík fjord. You will reach it on the hiking trail between Hornvík and Hlöðuvík.

2. Hafnarskarð pass views

hafnarskard best place hornstrandir

Views from the top of Hafnarskarð mountain pass are one of Hornstrandir’s highlights. Picture by Reinhold Seiz.

Hafnarskarð pass is another spot where you will be rewarded with picturesque views of the gorgeous fjords of Hornstrandir. Hafnarskarð overlooks both the Hornvík fjord and Veiðileysufjörður fjord. You will find this viewpoint on the Veiðileysufjörður-Hornvík hiking trail.

3. Hornbjarg cliffs

hornbjarg cliffs hornstrandir iceland

Hornbjarg Horn cliffs are by many considered the most beautiful spot in Hornstrandir. Photo by Evgeniy Metyolkin, CC BY-SA 3.0

The cliffs of Horn and Hornbjarg are undoubtedly the most iconic place in Hornstrandir. The sharp and steep cliffs full of birds entice thousands of photographers a year.

4. Hornbjargsvíti lighthouse

hornbjargsviti lighthouse hornstrandir iceland

The scenery around Hornbjargsvíti Lighthouse is one of the most beautiful places in Hornstrandir

The views from above the Hornbjargsvíti lighthouse are simply incredible on a nice day. The vibrant colors of the lighthouse create a unique photography contrast against the backdrop of a green, rocky coast.

5. Kirfi cliffs

Hælavíkurbjarg kirfi cliffs hvannadalur

Hælavíkurbjarg bird cliffs at Kirfi in Hvannadalur are one of the most scenic spots of Hornstrandir, still unconquered by crowds. Picture by Náttúrustofa Norðausturlands

Hælavíkurbjarg cliffs in Hvannadalur, sometimes also called Kirfi cliffs, are one of Hornstrandir’s hidden gems. You can reach them the easiest on a hike to Kirfi from Rekavík. It’s not a hike for the faint of heart, though.

6. Fljótsvatn lake

fljotsvatn floodplain top hornstrandir views

One of the top views you can experience in Hornstrandir is a view over Lake’s Fljótsvatn floodplain. Picture by Reinhold Seiz.

Fljótsvatn Lake is the biggest and most beautiful lake in Hornstrandir. You will find the best views over Fljótsvatn on a hike between Hlöðuvík and Fljótavík or on the Fljótavík-Látrar hiking trail.

7. Aðalvík fjord

best hornstrandir view latrar adalvik

Bird’s eye view over Aðalvík fjord on one of the nearby hikes is one of Hornstrandir’s highlights. Picture by Reinhold Seiz.

You can experience wonderful views over Aðalvík fjord on either the Fljótavík-Látrar hiking trail or on the hike between Látrar and Hesteyri.

Hornstrandir Accommodation

The only available accommodation in Hornstrandir is 14 campsites and three very simple guest houses with sleeping bag accommodation. Expect all three guesthouses to be fully booked in advance for the majority of summer:

Best Places in the Highlands of Iceland.

Remember, Hornstrandir is NOT a typical touristy destination. There is no comfortable lodging, and there are no normal services you are used to in a developed world. There’s wilderness and that’s it.

“No problem, I’m used to camping!” Well, are you? Have you camped in Hornstrandir? A friend of mine lost her top-class, well-pitched tent in Hornstrandir in August due to massive hurricane-force winds. She was lucky to be accommodated by one of the three guesthouses at the time. Is it always like this? No, it is not. But it can be. And you need to be ready for that!

hornvik campsite hornstrandir iceland

Hornvík campsite, the biggest camping in Hornstrandir. Picture by Reinhold Seiz.

A note of caution! You may encounter a house from time to time. All houses in Hornstrandir are private properties! Don’t invade the privacy of the owners. These may be their holiday houses or a family heritage.

Campsites in Hornstrandir

There are 14 different campsites in Hornstrandir. Six of them also offer an emergency shelter. Here is the list of all Hornstrandir campsites:

  • Hornvík Höfn campsite (+emergency shelter)
  • Hesteyri campsite
  • Hornbjargsvíti campsite
  • Látrar campsite (+emergency shelter)
  • Sæból campsite
  • Atlastaðir Fljotavik campsite (+emergency shelter)
  • Smiðjuvík campsite
  • Bjarnanes campsite
  • Hrafnfjörður campsite (+emergency shelter)
  • Glúmsstaðir Fljótavatn campsite
  • Veiðileysufjörður campsite
  • Við Hlöðuvíkurós campsite (+emergency shelter)
  • Horn or Hornsá campsite
  • Lónhorn campsite
  • Furufjörður campsite (+emergency shelter)
hornvik campsite emergency shelter

Emergency shelter in Hornvík campsite. Picture by Reinhold Seiz.

Most campsites are equipped with running water and dry toilets. Travelers must camp at campsites if there is one on the ground or in its immediate vicinity.

The biggest campsite is in Hornvík in Höfn. It’s large and well set up.  There is a ranger’s cabin, flush toilets, running water, and sinks in the Hornvík campsite.

Meals in Hornstrandir

There are no supermarkets or restaurants in Hornstrandir. You have to bring all the food by yourself or arrange for a food delivery. The basic food delivery can be ordered with any of the ferry companies, just discuss it with them in advance.

In summer, the three guesthouses typically offer snacks, hot beverages, canned drinks, and even soups or hot meals. This heavily depends on availability and their inventory at the time, though, so don’t rely on it!

It’s best you bring a calorie-heavy, lightweight food to Hornstrandir. The longer you stay, the calorie-heavier and more lightweight it should be. Nuts, biscuits, chocolate, and dried meat are some examples of such meals.

steep drops hornstrandir trails

Steep drops on unstable terrain are one of the main Hornstrandir hiking challenges, especially with a heavy backpack. Picture by Reinhold Seiz.

What to Pack for Hornstrandir

The equipment you need to hike in Hornstrandir highly depends on how many days you plan to spend here. Is it just a day trip? Or do you intend to do a 2-week-long expedition? This makes a night and a day difference.

Remember you have to buy everything in mainland Iceland or/and in Isafjordur. There are no shops in Hornstrandir! You may be able to buy some essentials in Læknishúsið in Hesteyri or in Hornvík or Hornbjargsvíti, but don’t rely on that. It’s subject to availability.

Multi-Day Hiking Expedition

Recommended Hornstrandir hiking gear:

  • Backpack, fully waterproof, with a rain cover
  • Hiking poles
  • Map, GPS, compass, and a satellite device or Garmin InReach in case of emergency
  • Sleeping bag, high-quality, light, warm
  • Tent, high-quality, light, water and windproof
  • Mattress, light, small, inflatable
  • Cooking equipment, stove, gas, pot, matches, dish, cup
  • Thermos, water bottle, pocket knife
  • Sun protection
  • Painkillers and emergency medication
  • Band-aid and elastic bandages
  • Food, light, dry, long-lasting, and high calories, e.g. biscuits, chocolate, dried meat, fruits
  • Hot drinks, tea, coffee, cocoa
  • Reserve batteries and/or power banks
  • Towel, shampoo, toilet paper
  • Headlight, lighter
hornstrandir what to pack

What to pack for Hornstrandir multi-day trek (click to enlarge). Picture by Reinhold Seiz.

Recommended clothes:

  • Hiking shoes, waterproof and sturdy
  • Wading shoes, to ford rivers, or neoprene socks
  • Jacket, waterproof
  • Sweater, wool, or thermal
  • Trousers, thermal
  • Trousers, waterproof
  • Gloves
  • Hat, windproof
  • Wool is the material you want to wear as much as possible to stay dry and warm

Pay special attention to your hiking shoes and the water and wind durability of your clothes. Gore Tex is highly recommended if you are looking for clothes that are really waterproof.

Hornstrandir is wet in many places, rocky, and hiking through wet grass makes most of the shoes leak. Bring shoes that have high ankle support, that are new, and wax leather shoes with fat before your trip. Don’t wear trail shoes.

Here’s an example 2-week trek Hornstrandir packing list, including item weights. Thanks to Reinhold Seiz for providing this:

hornstrandir packing list

Day Trip

If you are visiting Hornstrandir as a day trip only, you can skip the following items from the list above:

  • Sleeping bag, Tent, Mattress, Cooking equipment, Knife, Medication, Hot drinks, Batteries, Towel, Headlight

If you are visiting Hornstrandir as a part of the guided tour, apart from the items above, you can also skip:

  • Map, GPS, compass, satellite device (a guide has these)
  • A guide will also inform you about your planned route and clothes requirements as well as any other requirements. Chances are, you won’t be fording rivers, and if yes, you will be informed about it

Hiking Tips from a Local

hornstrandir official hiking map

Official Hornstrandir hiking map (click to enlarge). Only the main hiking trails are displayed here. Source: www.ust.is

  1. Always check the Icelandic Safe Travel website and the local weather forecast before going.
  2. Submit your travel plan here before visiting and also provide it to all ferry companies you will be using.
  3. Consult your plan with an information center in Hornvik or Hesteyri, with a ranger if he/she is present at your point of arrival, and possibly also with a ferry company.
  4. Practice at home! Practice a multi-day hike in rain, wind, with a heavy backpack (20kg / 44lbs), wet shoes, etc. Practice pitching a tent in these conditions.
  5. Trails can often get swampy and boggy. Get ready for that with your gear.
  6. Sometimes, especially over the mountain passes, you can get a limited cell and internet signal. Use it to get the most recent weather info.
  7. Print the most recent weather forecast at Isafjordur and update it with a pen/pencil every time you receive any internet signal when hiking, and take screenshots of the forecast.
  8. If there’s a visible path, your best chances are to follow it. If there’s no visible path, use cairns, GPS, compass, and maps.
  9. Check tidal times here. Or tide times here. You may need to cross tricky parts through beaches.
  10. Let the boat company you booked a ferry with know of any changes to your plans! The best is to send them an SMS because it may get through even if you think you don’t have any cell coverage.
  11. The ferry will not be waiting for you. Better wait for a ferry yourself with enough time in advance.
  12. Take only the main hiking trails displayed above if you don’t have enough previous experience with Hornstrandir! Some of the secondary hiking trails displayed below may be deadly dangerous!

Hornstrandir Hiking Trails

all hornstrandir hiking trails map

Map of all Hornstrandir hiking trails (click to enlarge). Beware, some may not be passable or only very hard! Source: https://vefsja.iskort.is/

We describe below the fourteen main Hornstrandir hiking trails and twelve secondary trails. The secondary trails are usually less visited, often unmarked and can be very difficult, not always, though.

Bear in mind that the map of each trail may not be exactly precise, and the correct and easiest hiking trail may vary year by year and day by day. Especially the river and water crossing spots change based on the tide and conditions at the time.

The hiking trails in Hornstrandir range from almost invisible and unmarked to partially visible with sticks in the ground or boot prints to very clear when marked with stone cairns.

There can often be snowfields on trails, especially early in the season. If you are unsure of where to go, your best guess is to follow the shoe steps made by others.

Veiðileysufjörður – Hornvík

Length: 11km (7mi)
Time: 4-5 hours
Elevation hiked: 550m (1600 ft)
Difficulty: moderate
Hiking Trail: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/hornvik-hafnarskard-veidileysufjordur-5199072
veidileysufjordur hiking trail hornstrandir iceland

View over Veiðileysufjörður on a hiking trail to Hornvík in Hornstrandir. Picture by Reinhold Seiz.

The hiking trail from Veiðileysufjörður to Hornvík via Hafnarskarð pass is the trail multi-day hikers often choose as their starting route. It’s a good warm-up trek, not too long, not too short, giving you a glimpse of what you can expect in Hornstrandir.

The highlight of the trails is definitely the spectacular view from the top of Hafnarskarð pass into both Veiðileysufjörður in the back and Hornvik in the front.

The trail near Veiðileysufjörður is often very swampy and wet, but it becomes drier the higher you go up. The route is clear and easy to follow, thanks to the big cairns that mark the way.

The most difficult spot of the trail is the Hafnarskarð pass. It’s steep and may be covered with snow all year round. Be prepared for steep snow slopes in this area, the bigger the earlier in the season you come.

There are typically no big rivers to cross, just small streams, and you shouldn’t even take your shoes off under standard, not-too-wet conditions.

Hornvík – Horn – Hornvík loop

Length: 16km (10mi)
Time: 6-7 hours
Elevation hiked: 600m (2500 ft)
Difficulty: moderate
Hiking Trail: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/hornvik-midfell-hornbjarg-140087904
horn cliffs hornstrandir iceland

Hornvík – Horn hiking trail in Hornstrandir, photo by Rob Oo, CC BY 2.0

The hiking trail from Hornvík in Höfn, leading to the famous Horn and Hornbjarg cliffs, is by far the single most popular trail in Hornstrandir. What makes it so much sought-after is that the cliffs are strikingly beautiful, and the path is relatively safe to visit. Secondly, the biggest campsite in Hornstrandir, Hornvík in Höfn, is close by.

Roughly one mile east of Hornvik, you have to cross the Hafnarós river. The river is, on average, knee-deep, and the official river crossing spot is higher up the river, marked by two yellow markers. However, sometimes it makes sense to search for even shallower spots.

You can often find the shallowest spot near the shore, where the river meets the sea, especially during low tide. If you want to minimize the part of your body underwater, take note of tidal times beforehand. Beware, though, here the riverbed may be more sandy.

horn hornbjarg hiking trail river crossing

A river crossing at sea level during low tide near Hornvík on the way to Horn and Hornbjarg. Picture by Reinhold Seiz.

The main highlight of this trek is the otherworldly view that you will get in the Horn and Hornbjarg area, where cliffs as high as 500 meters meet the sea. This is also where puffins and various birds often nest!

From Horn, you can walk in a loop along the cliffs and reach the mountain Miðfell. Please beware that the trail to Miðfell is steep and can be difficult to walk, especially in wet conditions.

The most difficult section of the trail besides the river crossing is the sheer drops right next to the trails. Take special care in the strong wind!

Hornvík – Hlöðuvík

Length: 10km (6mi)
Time: 4-5 hours
Elevation hiked: 500m (1600 ft)
Difficulty: moderate
Hiking Trail: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/hloduvik-to-hornvik-107093344
hornvik hloduvik hiking trail trollakambur

A sketchy spot over Tröllakambur cliffs on a Hornvík – Hlöðuvík hiking trail in Hornstrandir. Picture by Reinhold Seiz.

This trail connects two fjords – Hornvík and Hlöðuvík. Starting at Hornvík, the first part of the trail is a bit sketchy and leads along the edge of Tröllakambur cliffs. You have to watch your steps on the smooth stones, and there’s also a rope to help you pass.

After that, you will get to the bay of Rekavík Bak Höfn. At this junction, you can either continue to Hlöðuvík via Atlaskarð pass or do a detour to Kirfi cliffs in Hvannadalur. We describe the fascinating Kirfi/Hvannadalur trail below, under secondary trails.

The most gorgeous spot of the Hornvík – Hlöðuvík trail is the view from Skálarkambur pass all the way to Hlöðuvík. To reach Skálarkambur, though, you first have to hike up the Atlaskarð pass.

The hiking path to the Atlaskarð pass is well-marked with cairns. From Skálarkambur, you will take a very steep descent down to Hlöðuvík. This section of the trek can be quite dangerous earlier in the season when there’s still a lot of snow.

Hlöðuvík – Fljótsvatn

Length: 12km (7.5mi)
Time: 6 hours
Elevation hiked: 550m (1800 ft)
Difficulty: moderate
Hiking Trail: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/fljotavik-reida-hloduvik-budir-1120730
hloduvik fljotsvatn hiking trail

Steep rockslides and boulders on the Þorleifsskarð pass on a hiking trail from Hlöðuvík to Fljótsvatn.Picture by Reinhold Seiz.

The hiking trail from Hlöðuvík to Fljótsvatn is versatile but also demanding. The highlight of this trail is the view from the Þorleifsskarð pass down into the floodplain at Fljótavatn lake.

Some sections of the trail are marked with wooden sticks, however, you can easily lose your way in a fog. In that case, this will be a difficult and slow hike.

Fog is not the only threat of this trek. There are several sections with steep rockslides and boulders around Almenningar and Þorleifsskarð. Hiking poles will be priceless. And pray for no strong winds!

Apart from the steep parts and some unforgettable views, you will also encounter a seemingly endless stone desert.

Fljótsvatn – Látrar

Length: 11.5km (7mi)
Time: 5 hours
Elevation hiked: 500m (1600 ft)
Difficulty: moderate
Hiking Trail: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/latrar-fljotvik-reida-1120718
fljotstvatn latrar trail start

Beginning of the Fljótsvatn – Látrar trail. Picture by Reinhold Seiz.

The considerable part of the hiking trail from Fljótsvatn campsite to Látrar in Aðalvík leads through the swampy floodplains of Fljótsvatn lake. How wet you get varies strongly based on the current conditions around the lake.

Except for the swamps and pesky flies, this part of the trails is rather easy to walk. Later in the season, you may also be lucky to find a lot of blueberries in this area.

The prettiest part of the Fljótsvatn – Látrar hiking trail is most likely the magnificent view of Látravík after overcoming the Tunguheiði mountain pass southwest of Fljótavatn. This section is marked with cairns, and the initial hike up from Tungudalur is pretty steep.

Fljótavík – Látrar

Length: 12.5km (7.5mi)
Time: 5 hours
Elevation hiked: 500m (1600 ft)
Difficulty: moderate
Hiking Trail: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/fljotavik-latrar-1817356
fljotavik latrar tunguheidi hornstrandir

Steep Tunguheiði mountain pass on a Fljótavík – Látrar hiking trail in Hornstrandir. Picture by Reinhold Seiz.

The first real challenge of this trail is the Fljótsvatn Lake crossing next to Fljótavík. The water can be as high as your upper hips. The fording spot by the lake is marked opposite to Langanes.

Then there’s a steep ascent from Tungudalur all the way to Tunguheiði pass. After the pass, you can either continue southwest to Látrar in Aðalvík or choose one of the two detours – Rekavík and/or the Straumnes US Navy base.

By further following the main trail, you will then reach Látrar campsite by hiking alongside the mountain Látrafjall.

Látrar – Hesteyri

Length: 11km (7mi)
Time: 4 hours
Elevation hiked: 300m (1000 ft)
Difficulty: easy to moderate
Hiking Trail: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/hornstrandir-day-7-latravik-hesteyri-4986488
latravik view from stakkadalur

View over Látravík from the Stakkadalur pass on a hiking trail to Hesteyri. Picture by Reinhold Seiz.

The trek from Látrar to Hesteyri (or the other way round) is one of the easiest main hiking trails you can take in Hornstrandir. With Hesteyri being one of the main hubs of civilization in Hornstrandir, it’s also a well-trodden path.

While this trail is probably not as breathtaking as the others, the most beautiful section is a wonderful view down to Látravik once you climb up Stakkadalur. You will also meet a nice waterfall along the way.

When climbing up from Stakkadalur, you have to cross the river Stakkadalsós with a sandy bottom. This may be the most difficult spot of this hike. The section between Stakkadalur and Hesteyrarskarð mountain pass is marked with distant cairns. The final part of the trail between Hesteyrarskarð and Hesteyri is an old but well-visible road.

Hesteyri – Sæból

Length: 13.5km (8.5mi)
Time: 5 hours
Elevation hiked: 400m (1000 ft)
Difficulty: moderate
Hiking Trail: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/iceland-j5-boat-124098641
hesteyri saebol trail hornstrandir

On a start to hiking trail from Hesteyri to Sæból in Hornstrandir. Picture by Reinhold Seiz.

The hike from Hesteyri to Sæból again belongs to the easier ones when it comes to hiking trails in Hornstrandir. From Sæból, you can take two side hikes – one to a British Military Base in Darri and one to Rytur mountain.

On your way from Hesteyrarfjörður, you will first overcome the mountain Nóngilsfjall and head towards Sléttuheiði. This part of the trail is well visible and marked with cairns.  Then you have to cross the river Sléttuá.

The following part of the hike to Staður church is barely marked with a hard-to-see trail. However, the navigation is not too bad because you just have to keep right of the lake. This is also where the trail often gets wet.

During this trek, you may also make a detour to Slétta, which will extend your hiking time by about 1 to 2 hours. The most difficult part of the hike is the descent to Staður church, or the climb from the church, if you hike the other way round. It’s not any critical, though.

Hesteyri – Hlöðuvík

Length: 16km (10mi)
Time: 6-7 hours
Elevation hiked: 600m (2000 ft)
Difficulty: moderate to difficult
Hiking Trail: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/d3-hloduvik-hesteyri-52917311
doctors house laeknishusid hesteyri

Doctor’s House, or Læknishúsið, in Hesteyri. Picture by Reinhold Seiz.

The hiking trail from Hesteyri to Hlöðuvík is more difficult, yet pretty popular because it’s one of the two shortest trails connecting southern and northern Hornstrandir.

The most difficult sections of the trail include hiking up and down the steep snowfields with an invisible path underneath. The sooner in season you go, the bigger and more dangerous the snowdrifts.

Nevertheless, the trail is marked well with plenty of stone cairns. Just sometimes, the path simply disappears, because of stony terrain or snow where footprints often can’t be seen.

Coming from Hesteyri, the first main challenge is the Kjaransvíkurskarð mountain pass. This is the place where snowdrifts occur often. However, it’s also most likely the prettiest spot of the trail, with a picturesque view back over Hesteyri fjord.

The rest of the trail is rather boring, though, with lots of rocks, cairns, and bogs. Despite cairns, it may be hard to find a trail due to difficult navigation on stones and occasional snowfields. On snowdrifts, your best guess should be the footprints of others, if there are any.

The final challenge of the hike is a crossing of river Kjaransvíkurá, which is most of the time best crossed at the shore.

Horn – Hornbjargsvíti

Length: 9.5km (6mi)
Time: 4 hours
Elevation hiked: 850m (1800 ft)
Difficulty: moderate
Hiking Trail: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/vestfirdir-hornstrandir-hornbjargsviti-hornbjarg-22-juni-2012-10524338
horn hornbjargsviti trail hornstrandir

Horn – Hornbjargsvíti trail map

Getting to Hornbjargsvíti is not easy nor comfortable, regardless of the trail you choose. But it’s well worth the effort! Your first alternative is the Horn – Hornbjargsvíti trek along the eastern shore.

The trail from Horn to Hornbjargsvíti is versatile but quite sketchy, especially around the Múli area, if you plan to continue along the eastern shore all the way to Hornbjargsvíti.

The hardest spot is said to be the climb up to Múli and back down to the shore. It’s particularly challenging with a huge backpack. The trails in this area are also not well visible and can be quite a daunting task to follow if it’s too foggy.

On a positive note, though, once at Hornbjargsvíti, you will be rewarded with one of its kind views and a surreal, remote atmosphere. Hornbjargsvíti lighthouse, with its surroundings, is one of the most scenic places in Hornstrandir.

Hornvík – Hornbjargsvíti

Length: 7km (4.5mi)
Time: 4 hours
Elevation hiked: 300m (1000 ft)
Difficulty: moderate to difficult
Hiking Trail: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/hornbjargsviti-veidileysufjordur-3008189
hornbjargsviti lighthouse hornstrandir iceland

A scenic view from over the Hornbjargsvíti Lighthouse in Hornstrandir, the destination of this trek.

The second way to reach Hornbjargsvíti leads south through the Kýrskarð pass. Although seemingly short, the trail is no easier than the second hiking trail. If you get lost, it may take you an entire day to pass.

There are rocky sections where you may even need to climb a bit. Then, there may be steep snow patches where both navigating and not falling would pose a challenge.

Moreover, the track is not that well-trodden and, at times, barely visible. You won’t welcome this in a fog. The only thing helping you not get lost are the wooden sticks along the trail. GPS should help you a lot on this trek.

And if it all wasn’t enough, the trek is not super eventful either and the path can become pretty muddy. Finally, you have to cross the river at the beginning, right next to Hornvík. And this needs to be examined for the best crossing spot, see the Hornvík – Horn – Hornvík loop trail above.

Hornsá – Hornbjargsvíti – Bjarnanes – Smiðjuvík

Length: 15km (9mi)
Time: 7 hours
Elevation hiked: 800m (1600 ft)
Difficulty: moderate to difficult
Hiking Trail: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/horn-i-hornvik-bardsvik-09-08-18-28278945
bjarnanes hiking trail hornstrandir

Views from the Hornbjargsvíti – Bjarnanes – Smiðjuvík hiking trail. Source: www.ust.is

This is a longer hike that can be divided into more days if necessary and ends up in Smiðjuvík. The first part of the hiking trail leads through the Innstidalur valley. Then, the section towards Hornbjargsvíti follows. Next, you have to overcome the Axarfjall mountain pass.

The highlight of this trail is the most beautiful and probably also the biggest waterfall in Hornstrandir, called Drifandisfoss. The waterfall is located halfway between Bjarnanes and Smiðjuvík and protrudes from majestic cliffs.

Smidjuvík – Furufjörður

Length: 14km (8.5mi)
Time: 7 hours
Elevation hiked: 750m (1700 ft)
Difficulty: moderate
Hiking Trail: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/furufjordur-to-smidjuvik-140422221
smidjuvik hornstrandir iceland

Smidjuvík – Furufjörður Hornstrandir hiking trail. Source: www.ust.is

The hiking trail from Smidjuvík to Furufjörður is long and remote. Privacy and no crowds guaranteed. Unfortunately, also almost no marks as well.

From time to time, you will find wooden sticks of various colors but don’t rely on this hike to be marked. Often, you just have to follow your GPS, and there’s no other option.

Your first checkpoint will be the fjord of Barðsvík on your east, and from there, you have to climb over the Göngumannaskörð mountain pass. To reach your next stop, Bolungarvík, you first have to cross the river Bolungarvíkurófæra. Watch out for a low tide time, though! Otherwise, you most likely won’t pass this river.

Finally, an almost never-ending, 7km long stretch of unmarked coastal hiking past tons of stones and driftwood will bring you to Furufjörður.

Furufjörður – Hrafnfjörður south

Length: 8.5km (5mi)
Time: 3 hours
Elevation hiked: 250m (600 ft)
Difficulty:
Hiking Trail: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/bardsvik-furufjordur-hrafnfjordur-10-08-18-28279062
furufjordur hrafnfjordur hiking path hornstrandir

Furufjörður – Hrafnfjörður hiking trail. Source: www.ust.is

The hiking trail between Furufjörður and Hrafnfjörður is not long, but it’s very isolated. Hikers often extend this trek with other stops or detours, like Svartaskarð to Þarlátursfjörður or the direction of Reykjafjörður, Ófeigsfjörður and Ingólfsfjörður.

One of the main challenges of this hike is the almost non-existent track east of Skorarvatn Lake. Your only chance there is to follow the cairns. GPS often doesn’t help either.

Coming from the east, after passing the lake, the trail improves and eventually turns into a mountain road between Skorarheiði and Hrafnfjörður.

Secondary Hiking Trails

Látrar – Sæból

Length: 7km (4.5mi)
Time: 2-3 hours
Elevation hiked: 100m (300 ft)
Difficulty: moderate
Hiking Trail: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/latrar-i-adalvik-saebol-i-adalvik-dagur-3-107615860
latrar saebol hiking trail hornstrandir

A beach hike with a steep cliff climb on a direct hiking trail between Látrar and Sæból. Source: https://is.nat.is/

You will not find the trail from Látrar to Sæból on the main hiking maps of Hornstrandir. However, this trail exists and hikers do take it every now and then.

This is mostly a coastal trail leading along the beaches of Aðalvík fjord. On a nice day it resembles a summer vacation, just a lot colder one.

The main obstacle and by far the hardest spot of this trail is a 100m high climb up the cliffs with the help of chains. This section is definitely not for the faint-hearted and it’s difficult to carry the bag on your back. After that, it’s easy to get to the campsite of Sæból.

Veiðileysufjörður – Tafla – Veiðileysufjörður

Length: 9km (5.5mi)
Time: 3 hours
Elevation hiked: 550m (1800 ft)
Difficulty: moderate
Hiking Trail: https://www.strava.com/activities/5793034662

From Veiðileysufjörður, you can take a short hike up to Tafla mountain. On a nice day, you will be rewarded with a spectacular view over Veiðileysufjörður fjord.

Rekavík – Kirfi – Rekavík

Length: 5km (3mi)
Time: 2 hours
Elevation hiked: 200m (600 ft)
Difficulty: moderate to difficult
Hiking Trail: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/rekavik-bak-hofn-hvannadalur-rekavik-bak-hofn-8251036
Hælavíkurbjarg kirfi cliffs hvannadalur

Hælavíkurbjarg bird cliffs at Kirfi in Hvannadalur, Hornstrandir, Iceland. Picture by Náttúrustofa Norðausturlands.

The hike to Kirfi Hill, also called the Hvannadalur hike, is a popular detour locals often take on their way from Hornvík towards Hlöðuvík.

Since this is an out-and-back hike, it’s best to leave your big backpack on a wooden platform around Rekavík bak Höfn, where the hike starts.

The most difficult spot of the hiking trail is a very narrow section leading on the side of the cliff with pretty scary drops all the way to the ocean below. The beginning of the trail can also be swampy at times, so be prepared for that.

The highlight of the trail is a scenic view of Hælavíkurbjarg cliffs, considered by many to be one of the best views in Hornstrandir. These are huge, vertical cliffs you won’t see anywhere else.

Látrar – Straumnesfjall – Látrar

Length: 17km (10.5mi)
Time: 5 hours
Elevation hiked: 500m (1600 ft)
Difficulty: moderate
Hiking Trail: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/hornstrandir-straumnesfjall-78884503
Straumnesfjall military base hornstrandir

Straumnes or Straumnesfjall US military base in Hornstrandir. Picture by www.ust.is.

Straumnesfjall US military base is a popular day trip hikers take from Látrar in Aðalvík. There are two trails leading to Straumnes – the western one and the eastern one. The western trail is actually a road Americans built in the 50s, and it’s therefore considerably easier.

The highlights of this trail include a view over Aðalvík and, of course, an exploration of the abandoned radar station.

Thanks to the eastern path, you can turn this into a loop hike. This path down from Straumnesfjall leads through the Öldudalur valley in Rekavík. The trail here is almost invisible, but you can sometimes see cairns or pieces of cairns.

For those who still haven’t had enough, you can also hike around the Rekavíkurvatn lake.

Sæból – Darri – Sæból

Length: 8km (5mi)
Time: 3 hours
Elevation hiked: 500m (1600 ft)
Difficulty: ?moderate?
Hiking Trail: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/darri-107666880
darri saebol hike hornstrandir

A hike to the former UK radar station in Darri from Sæból in Hornstrandir.Source: Borea Adventures tour.

Straumnes is not the only military station in Hornstrandir. There’s also a British radar station in Darri. You can reach Darri on a day hike from Sæból.

Coming from the campsite in Sæból, you first have to cross the river Traðará. A well-visible path then follows up to the valley of Garðadalur. The ascent up the mountain is steep and challenging.

On top of the hill, there is a road that will take you to the ruins of the British military base on mountain Darri.

Hornvík – Sópandi

Length: 16km (10mi)
Time: 7-10 hours
Elevation hiked: 600m (2000 ft)
Difficulty: very difficult
Hiking Trail: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/hornvik-to-sopandi-via-rangalaskard-14011721
typical driftwood hornstrandir iceland

A typical driftwood on almost every coastal hiking path in Hornstrandir. Picture by Reinhold Seiz.

You can hike all the way from Hornvík to Sópandi in Lónafjörður fjord via one of the most challenging trails in Hornstrandir. The trek leads through the highest mountain pass in Hornstrandir called Rangalaskarð.

You should only take this hike with a local or if you are already highly experienced in the area. There are several dangerous sections, and the trail as such is hard to navigate through.

Some of the threats you may expect are no marks, boggy terrain, river crossings, and high tides. You need to plan for a low tide between Miðkjós and Sópandi, otherwise, you most likely won’t pass.

Fljótsvatn – Fljótavík east

Length: 9km (5.7mi)
Time: 3 hours
Elevation hiked: 130m (440 ft)
Difficulty: easy
Hiking Trail: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/atlastadir-reida-10469987

This is the trail leading along the eastern bank of the Fljótsvatn Lake to Fljótavík. By taking this path you should be able to avoid the crossing of the lake Fljótavatn.

It’s almost impossible to find any info about this trail, so if you know anything about it, please contact us, and we will give you credit for all the info you provide.

Fljótavík – Kögur

Length: 7km (4.5mi)
Time: 4 hours
Elevation hiked: 600m (2000 ft)
Difficulty: difficult
Hiking Trail: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/hornstrandir-krossadalur-sandvikurvatn-og-kogur-upp-af-fljotavik-78884836
kogur hike fljotavik hornstrandir

The map of a day hike to Kögur from Fljótavík.

Kögur is a mountain near Fljótavík that can be explored on a challenging day trip. You may also add the areas of Krossadalur and Sandvíkurvatn to extend this hike.

Veiðileysufjörður – Kvíar

Length: 17km (10.5mi)
Time: 7-9 hours
Elevation hiked: 500m (1600 ft)
Difficulty: moderate to difficult
Hiking Trail: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/veidileysufjordur-kviar-8-juni-2014-7101103

The only way to get to the Kvíar lodge, one of the very few non-camping lodgings in Hornstrandir, is to take a private boat on a guided tour or to hike to it via challenging and unmarked trails.

One such trail leads to Kvíar from Veiðileysufjörður, and you should take it only if you are already well experienced in navigating throughout Hornstrandir.

Veiðileysufjörður – Hlöðuvík

Length: 9km (6mi)
Time: 4 hours
Elevation hiked: 500m (1600 ft)
Difficulty: moderate to difficult
Hiking Trail: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/hornstrandir-j6-28131682
veidileysufjordur hiking trail hornstrandir

Veiðileysufjörður. Picture by Reinhold Seiz.

It’s possible to get to Hlöðuvík also directly from Veiðileysufjörður and vice versa. However, the hiking trail is unmarked and quite challenging.

There are sections west of Veiðileysufjörður campsite where you basically have to hike in the sea around cliffs for hundreds of meters. Better pick a sunny day and low tide for this activity!

Furufjörður – Hrafnfjörður north

Length: 18km (11mi)
Time: 6 hours
Elevation hiked: 700m (1500 ft)
Difficulty: ???
Hiking Trail: ???

It’s almost impossible to find any info about this trail, so if you know anything about it, please contact us, and we will give you credit for all the info you provide.

FAQ

Is Hornstrandir worth it?

If you are a nature lover and hiking enthusiast, Hornstrandir is totally worth the time and money spent on planning. It’s one of the last pieces of remote hiking heaven on the planet, with no dangerous animals or insects. Just with a very harsh weather.

Can I see Arctic foxes in Hornstrandir?

Yes, you can, and the chances are high! Hornstrandir is by far the best place in Iceland to see an Arctic fox. It’s highly likely they may even start playing with your tent!

How many days do you need for Hornstrandir?

This highly depends on your hiking ambitions. As short as one day is enough to explore some of the most beautiful areas in Hornstrandir as a day trip. On the other hand, as long as two weeks may not be enough to fully explore all the beauty Hornstrandir has to offer.

Is Hornstrandir safe to visit?

Hornstrandir is 100% safe when it comes to:

  • Animals – there are no dangerous species,
  • Insects – none of them are dangerous,
  • Water – it’s fully safe to drink.

However, Hornstrandir can also be dangerous because:

  • Weather can get very harsh with strong wind, rain, and fog
  • There’s no network or cell coverage
  • Hiking trails may be steep and not well visible at times
  • If anything happens to you, help is far away
amazing views hornstrandir fjords

Hornstrandir fjords offer some of the most amazing views in Europe. Picture by Reinhold Seiz.

How to prepare for Hornstrandir?

Plan and study the area in advance. Dress well. Practice long hikes at home. Expect extreme weather conditions. Don’t overestimate your hiking skills.

After reading this article, you should already have a good idea of what to expect in Hornstrandir.

Hornstrandir hiking rules

  • Don’t leave any rubbish behind you, take it all with yourself
  • Don’t move stones or driftwood in any way
  • Follow the trodden path as much as possible
  • You can camp only in designated campgrounds
  • Most campsites have toilets, use them whenever possible
  • Campfires are forbidden
  • Do not disturb animals, keep a safe distance of at least 40 meters whenever possible
  • It’s strictly forbidden to feed animals
  • Drones are forbidden unless you have a special permit
  • Don’t pick any flowers, you can pick up berries, though
  • You can find detailed Hornstrandir visitors’ rules here
  • All the houses are private, don’t disturb anyone’s property!

In the end, I would like to say a huge thank you to Mr. Reinhold Seiz, who contributed sizeably to this article with his stunning photos of Hornstrandir! Here is also his amazing video:

Please, if you have any additional info you believe would be useful to place in this article, or if you believe something should be corrected, contact us, and we will give you all the credit for this info and a bottle of wine when we meet in Iceland 🙂

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Posted by Igor in Guide, 22 comments
How to Visit Maelifell Volcano

How to Visit Maelifell Volcano

Maelifell is an epic green volcano hidden in the black Icelandic desert in the southern Highlands of Iceland.

Did you know that there is not just one Maelifell in Iceland? There are about 20 of them. Maelifell means “measuring mountain” in Icelandic, or an “orientational hill”. And Icelanders in the past were not very original in naming their mountains. So, yes, there are many Maelifells in Iceland.

Below we explain in deep detail how to reach Maelifell. Information in this article is based on our multiple visits to the volcano over several years. There’s no guarantee the conditions will be the same at the time of your visit, though! More on this below.

Maelifell Video Guide

Maelifell Map

How to get to Maelifell

You have three options:

  1. Drive to Maelifell yourself
  2. Take a public super jeep tour (10% discount code: EPICICELAND10)
  3. Or take our Epic Private Super Jeep tour

There are no buses or bigger group tours.

Driving to Maelifell

You have three options to reach Maelifell:

  • From the West – the most scenic route
  • From the South – the easiest route
  • From the East – route with the biggest river crossing

how to visit maelifell volcano

How to visit Maelifell volcano in Iceland

First of all – it is NOT EASY to get to Maelifell. It’s not a trip for beginners.

You need to drive a big 4wd car AND you have to cross the unpredictable rivers.

Maelifell is disguised deep in the southern Icelandic Highlands. To reach it, you need to take the difficult Highland roads, which are also called the F-roads.

For all of this, you HAVE TO prepare in advance.

Western route

You can reach Maelifell from the west by either

  • Road F210 only, or
  • Roads F261 and F210

Both of these roads are incredibly scenic and rough highland roads. You have to cross medium-sized rivers on both.

F210 only

F210 west near Keldur

F210 west near Keldur

My favorite option is to take the F-road F210 from the west only. It’s one of the most beautiful roads in Iceland. Views on a nice day are simply amazing.

You will have to cross several small to medium rivers on F210. Moreover, you will also drive in a river bank for about 100 meters (yards).

The most significant river crossing is located near the crossroads with F261, and the river is called Kladaklofskvisl:

There are no more river crossings after Kaldaklofskvisl, but the road gets rougher and rougher.

You will, for example, encounter huge volcanic boulders that require a high ground clearance and cautious driving.

What Car do you need for F210?

f-roads maelifell iceland

F-roads around Maelifell

To pass F210 safely, you must drive at least a Toyota Land Cruiser, Toyota Hilux, or Jeep Wrangler.

The best option is to drive a super jeep. Super Jeep is a modified vehicle with big tires and a snorkel. Some examples include Land Rover Defender, Land Rover Super Defender or a modified Land Cruiser.

You can rent all of these in Iceland. Check out our article on How to Rent a Super Jeep in Iceland.

F261 and F210

The second option from the west is to use the combination of the roads F261 and F210.

F261 is a bumpy road with one medium-sized river crossing at the end. The river is called Blafjallakvisl and requires just about the same cars to pass as F210.

F261 is also beautiful and worth the drive.

Southern route

f232 blafjallafoss waterfall

F232 Bláfjallafoss waterfall

F232 from the south is the easiest road.

It is the least bumpy road and there is just one medium-sized river crossing. Or better said – a waterfall crossing.

There are huge stones at the bottom of the river and the crossing is very bumpy.

f232 road iceland

F232 south of Maelifell

This one particular spot – the waterfall crossing of Blafjállafoss – is great for drone lovers, and it’s very picturesque.

Other than that, there’s nothing super highly interesting along the road, just one more cute waterfall called Holmsarfoss.

To pass F232, we again recommend ideally a Land Cruiser or something bigger.

On a dry day, you may be able to pass with Dacia Duster, Suzuki Jimny, Nissan Qashqai, or something similar. BUT you need to drive well without mistakes. To be sure not to damage your car, it’s better to rent something bigger.

Eastern route

The final option is to take F210 from the east. Eastern F210 is not difficult, but there is one major obstacle on the road.

f210 iceland east

F210 East of Maelifell

A big river crossing of Holmsa river. This river crossing is located east of Maelifell, right next to the Raudibotn craters area.

To pass this ford safely, it’s best to drive a super jeep. On a dry day you may be able to pass with Land Cruiser or Hilux or something similar.

Please never cross Holmsa in a Duster, Jimny or anything similar!

When to visit Maelifell

In short, you can visit Maelifell only in summer AND only when the roads to Maelifell are open.

maelifell iceland our visit

Our first visit of Maelifell in August

The roads to Maelifell typically open in the beginning of July and usually become impassable around mid-September.

Always check this upfront on www.road.is or www.trafficinfo.is, that is the same website of Icelandic Road Administration.

You can drive to Maelifell only if the road is marked green or dashed green.

What to do around

Our favorite hidden gems near Maelifell are Raudibotn craters, Strútslaug hot spring, Markarfljotsgljufur canyon, and Hungurfit dirt track.

Raudibotn craters

Rauðibotn waterfalls

Raudibotn waterfalls

Raudibotn craters are an out-of-this-world secluded area full of waterfalls, rivers, and craters. Beware, though, to reach Raudibotn from Maelifell, you must cross the more giant Holmsa river.

Or you need to go all the way back to the ring road and access Raudibotn by F210 from the south.

You can read more about our Raudibotn experience here.

Strutslaug hot spring

strutslaug hot spring iceland

Strútslaug hot spring deep in the Fjallabak highlands of Iceland

Strútslaug is most likely the least visited hot spring in Iceland. This is a truly wild hot pot, unlike many other touristy ones in Iceland.

To reach Strútslaug, you have to cross one medium-sized river several times and then hike for about 1.5 hours.

You can read more about our Strútslaug experience here.

Markarfljotsgljufur canyon

markarfljotsgljufur east viewpoint

East viewpoint of Markarfljótsgljúfur Canyon

Markarfljótsgljúfur Canyon is one of our favorite canyons in Iceland. You are almost guaranteed to be alone when you reach it.

That being said, Markarfljótsgljúfur belongs to some of the most difficult-to-access canyons in Iceland.

You can get to Markarfljótsgljúfur either from the west or from the east. We describe in detail both of these options in the article about our Markarfljótsgljúfur experience.

Hungurfit dirt track

We will finish our list of the most secluded and fascinating spots in Iceland by Hungurfit track. This is one of our favorite deserted and totally remote dirt tracks in Iceland.

Driving the Hungurfit track involves steep ascents and descents, driving next to the deep ravines, as well as crossing numerous rivers and streams.

The most sought-for spots on Hungurfit, even for locals, is one of the tightest boulder-passes in Iceland – see video thumbnail above.

Tips and Safety

How do you prepare for a trip like this?

  1. Watch road videos and read blog posts to know what to expect
  2. Rent a proper car – Land Cruiser, Hilux, or a super jeep
  3. Practice on easier roads first
  4. Don’t go alone, ideally, go with more than just one car
  5. Go only when the weather is good, and the roads are open for tourists
  6. Check road and weather conditions on road.is or trafficinfo.is and en.vedur.is in advance
  7. Check with your car rental company if you are allowed to drive the roads to Maelifell
  8. Read our Highlands road trip guide

FAQ

maelifell iceland drive

Driving around Maelifell

Is there any accommodation near Maelifell?

There is no hotel or hostel anywhere nearby. Only mountain huts with sleeping bag accommodation.

The closest ones are Hvanngil hut, Strútur hut, Alftavatn hut, Alftavotn hut and Emstrur-Botnar hut.

Can I get to Maelifell in Dacia Duster or Suzuki Jimny?

Long story short – we do not recommend it.

It is theoretically possible on a nice and dry day. And only if you use the easiest southern route F232. But you are risking damaging your car.

Can I take small children to Maelifell?

Well, like generally? NO. Only if you already have experience with the highlands, otherwise not.

Maelifell highlands Iceland

Maelifell in the highlands of Iceland. Photo credit to: snorrithorphotography.com

How much time do I need?

It takes roughly 2 hours to reach Maelifell from the town of Vik and roughly 2.5hours from Hella.

If you want to see just Maelifell and nothing else, the roundtrip will take you around 6 hours.

Is it worth going in a fog?

Unfortunately not really. But this depends on how heavy the fog is and if it’s persistent or not. This is impossible to predict. So you just need to take your chances!

Why can I visit Maelifell only in summer?

Because there is snow or mud on the roads. You would get stuck or you could damage the fragile soil.

Can I hike Maelifell?

Yes you can, BUT it is a very hard hike on an unmarked trail. It’s very steep and only for highly experienced hikers.

Our Experience

maelifell highlands iceland

The gem on the highlands of Iceland

Our first trip to Maelifell started in Hella via F210 from the west.

Most of the F210 is without bigger river crossings, so in case of good weather, even if you don’t feel like doing bigger river crossings, you may try to drive it in a proper 4×4 (ideally Land Cruiser or bigger, see our guide on how to choose a proper car for Iceland) – up to Alftavatn mountain hut.

F210 west of Alftavatn

Up to Alftavatn hut, the road is just bumpy, with potholes and some steep sections, but really picturesque and one of my favorite Icelandic roads. You will get amazing views in each direction – seeing Landmannalaugar from the distance and a big part of Fjallabak Park.

Even until Alftavatn, you will still have to cross several smaller streams, and even drive in the riverbed for around 100 meters! This is really one of the “once in a lifetime” experiences, for anyone not used to it (yes, maybe not for Icelanders ;).

f210 iceland west

F210 west of Alftavatn

As I mentioned, the road leads through multiple mountainous areas, so if you are unsure about driving in such an environment, please don’t go. Once you pass Alftavatn, the first real obstacle gets into your path – crossing the Kaldaklofskvisl river.

F210 to Alftavatn

Hence, we drove F210 all the way to Alftavatn lake. The road was admiringly beautiful. The part I liked the most was the highest spot just before Alftavatn, where you could see all the surrounding land, including Landmannalaugar in the distance, almost from the “bird’s eye” point of view.

We took a short break at Alftavatn lake, which is a very nice, calm, and quiet spot to stop at and have a picnic or short stay during nice weather. We were lucky enough that exactly after our arrival at Alftavatn the sun started to fight its way between the clouds and we could even walk in the T-shirt outside.

F210 Fjallabaksleið Syðri

F210 Fjallabaksleið Syðri to Alftavatn

F210 after Alftavatn then continues in two directions – south towards F261 and east towards Maelifell and Holmsa river. Since our journey went smoothly up to this point, we definitely wanted to take a detour toward Maelifell and so we did. We turned left on the eastern part of F210. Here’s where the truly lunar landscapes have begun to emerge.

Kaldaklofskvisl river crossing

Kaldaklofskvisl crossing on F210 can get tricky at times because there are some large boulders in the river that you are unable to see beforehand. Secondly, the water level in the river may get too high to allow for safe crossing in vehicles not big enough.

It’s always necessary to strictly adhere to all the river crossing rules, watch someone cross before you, wade the river yourself if feeling unsure, and if still feeling unsure better turn back.

F210 kaldaklofskvisl river crossing

Kaldaklofskvísl river crossing F210

We had nice partially cloudy/partially sunny weather, luckily with no fog and no rain. We already knew from our friends and from the day before, that the water level in rivers is favorably low and rivers are shallower than usual. These are practically one of the best conditions possible.

F210 to Maelifell

F210 towards Maelifell is definitely one of the most unique Icelandic roads. Firstly, the weather almost always changes when driving on this road. F210 towards Maelifellsandur literally feels like a gateway towards another world, thanks to this. Secondly, the road itself is very specific – it starts with huge boulders and continues as a black sand road.

And it’s almost always covered with some kind of mist – either light or heavy. Huge boulders are the most difficult part of F210 towards Maelifell. The road doesn’t have a clearly visible track, and if you don’t take enough care, you may damage the underside of your car.

F210 Fjallabaksleid Sydri east to Maelifell

F210 Fjallabaksleid Sydri east to Maelifell

After basically driving on huge stone plates rather than an ordinary road, the route turns into tracks in the black sand. Oftentimes expect it to be wet and muddy because this is the area where it may rain occasionally. This part of the road doesn’t have any huge obstacles, or rivers, so it looks like a giant moon highway.

There are no more river crossings going from Kaldaklofskvisl to Maelifell. If you are the only car on the road (which is frequently the case, as with us) then your only guides are the tracks in the sand and yellow sticks marking the side of the road.

Maelifell

After a drive in the middle of “black sand nowhere”, you will be able to spot majestic Maelifellsandur in the distance. If you are lucky enough, and Mr. Maelifell is not covered in fog – which he likes to do – your view will be truly amazing. As I already mentioned, the weather usually changes to worse after turning towards Maelifell. This was exactly our case (multiple times). This time it, however, only changed to cloudy with occasional little rain – which is still considered good weather.

maelifell iceland

Maelifell in Fjallabak nature reserve

Finally, after an adventurous drive – there it stood – Maelifell volcano. It’s a view as if you were on a deserted planet. A huge green volcano in front of you, surrounded by black sand fields, with occasional little lakes created by past rain and absolute silence in the air.

It’s even possible to climb the Maelifell, but we don’t recommend doing that unless you are really experienced in performing steep, unmarked hikes unless there’s ideal weather and ideally only with a guide. We didn’t go for the hike as it may be really dangerous (and the view from above wouldn’t be great in partially foggy weather).

Holmsa river crossing

We still had enough time at that point of the day, because everything went pretty smoothly. Thus, we decided to take a look at the Holmsa river crossing with an aim of seeing Raudibotn – the beautiful hidden (from a typical tourist) area with a crater, river, and amazing landscapes all around.

holmsa river crossing iceland

Me crossing bigger Hólmsá river by Land Cruiser on F210 near Maelifell

After reaching Maelifell, we continued east and we soon arrived at the Holmsá river crossing. According to a friend of mine, the crossing was supposed to be doable, without problems, at this time of the year (especially due to low water levels). Beware, this is the river crossing which may get pretty nasty. Always check both beforehand and on-site.

The crossing looked exactly like my friend Haraldur described it – this time harmless. I examined the river anyway and it looked calm and shallow. Because of this, we decided to go for a ford even without wading the river on foot. And the crossing went smoothly. There’s a small hill with the road, usually easy to spot on your left after the Holmsa crossing.

Raudibotn, Markarfljostgljufur and Hungurfit

After crossing Holmsa we went hiking all the way to Raudibotn craters. Highly recommended and totally worth a tiring day!

hungurfit track river crossings

Many small to medium river crossings are an amazing part of the Hungurfit track

After Raudibotn, we didn’t have enough and explored also Markarfljotsgljufur canyon and drove Hungurfit track. You can read in detail about our Fjallabak highlands day involving all these activities.

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Posted by Igor in Guide, Highlands, 4 comments
Grænihryggur hike: Guide to the hidden Green Ridge

Grænihryggur hike: Guide to the hidden Green Ridge

Graenihryggur hike is one of the most beautiful hikes in Landmannalaugar with stunning views full of spectacular colors. Grænihryggur is also one of Iceland’s best-kept secrets with almost no visitors even during the peak season! It’s a longer and more difficult hike but well worth the effort, making it a once-in-a-lifetime hiking experience.

So what is Graenihryggur? The literal translation would be a „green ridge“. And this is precisely what makes Grænihryggur special. Out-of-this-world blue-greenish color. It’s a ridge well hidden deep in the Landmannalaugar mountains. It can’t be seen from typical touristy hikes in Landmannalaugar, like Bláhnúkur or Brennisteinsalda.

Icelandic locals know well about Grænihryggur and they are usually the only visitors you will meet on a trail. Besides locals, guided tours also head to Graenihryggur, because this is one of those places in Iceland that can still be considered a true „hidden gem“.

Hike in a nutshell

Graenihryggur hike is an 8km long out-and-back hike that takes about 8 hours to complete. It is moderately difficult with some steeper and slippery parts and is accessible only in summer. It is one of the most beautiful hikes in Iceland, still not known to many visitors.

Location: 7km south of Landmannalaugar campsite detour
Length: 8km (5mi) one way, 4 hours one way
Difficulty: moderate to difficult
Season: typically from July to September
Gear: hiking shoes, hiking poles, rain-proof, and wind-proof clothes
Hiking trail: coordinates of the hiking trail

How to get to the Graenihryggur hike

Graenihryggur is located in Landmannalaugar, close to the campsite. There are several different ways to reach Graenihryggur hiking trails and none of them is trivial. Firstly, you need to reach the famous Landmannalaugar area. For that, you have the 3 options below.

f208 landmannalaugar iceland

Amazingly beautiful roads around Landmannalaugar

Getting to Landmannalaugar

You can get to Landmannalaugar via three different roads:

We explained in detail the differences between these three roads in our Guide to Landmannalaugar. You need to have a 4wd car when heading to Icelandic Highlands and Landmannalaugar. A medium-sized 4×4 car is the best for this type of trip.

Getting to Grænihryggur trailhead

There are two main trailheads leading to Graenihryggur from Landmannalaugar. The first, shortest, and most popular trailhead is located right next to road F208, close to Landmannalaugar campsite, 8 kilometers (5 miles) south of road F224. It is depicted on the map above and also zoomed in the picture below.

Grænihryggur trailhead map

Grænihryggur trailhead map. Source: Wikiloc

The second trailhead is located at the Landmannalaugar campsite itself, where all famous Landmannalaugar hikes start. For our hike, we chose the first option – the so-called Halldórsgil trail. Halldórsgil is the most popular and also the shortest and safest trail leading to Grænihryggur. It leads via Halldórsgil canyon. The other trails are difficult, dangerous, and barely marked, see below.

Grænihryggur hiking trails

Graenihryggur is located in the heart of Landmannalaugar, between Brennisteinsalda campsite and Hrafntinnusker hut. This means you can get to Graenihryggur by many different trails, none of them being short, nor easy, though. Several of these trails are not even marked, that’s why many choose a guided tour instead of a self-hike.

Map of the Grænihryggur hiking trails:

graenihryggur hiking trails map

Map of the Grænihryggur hiking trails

There are three known hiking trails to Grænihryggur:

  1. The main Halldórsgil trail. It starts as a hike through the canyon of Halldórsgil. Halldórsgil trail is a well-marked trail (red sticks). This is the shortest, easiest, and also most popular trail. The only disadvantage of the Halldórsgil trail is that it’s an out-and-back trail. Landscapes around the trail are more than just amazing. We took this trail and describe it in detail below. It took us roughly 6 hours to complete a round-trip.
  2. The Landmannalaugar trail. The second, significantly longer, more difficult, and unmarked trail is a loop trail from Halldórsgil, via Grænihryggur to Landmannalaugar campsite and back (or the other way around). After reaching Graenihryggur you have to climb up and down several steep and unmarked ridges and also ford the fast-flowing and wide Jökulgilskvísl river. We highly recommend doing this hike only as a guided tour, or only if you are a very experienced hiker and you are in luck with a great weather forecast (no fog, rain, or strong winds). The Graenihryggur Landmannalaugar loop takes about 10-12 hours to complete.
  3. The Hrafntinnusker trail. Apart from the two main Grænihryggur trails mentioned above, you may also hike to Graenihryggur by several different combinations of various trails in the area. Most of them are longer and more difficult than those we mentioned above. Hikers usually hike them as a part of multi-day Landmannalaugar hikes. In addition, the majority of them are unmarked.

Map of the Graenihryggur hike

Below is the detailed map of the main Grænihryggur hike, the Halldórsgil hike. There are the exact coordinates of the hike as we’ve done it in late July. All necessary info such as altitude, hiking times, and the trail we took are included in the interactive map below:

Powered by Wikiloc

Hiking difficulty

  • The hike is considered to be a moderately difficult hike.
  • The main danger of the hike lies in unpredictable weather, a very remote area with no network coverage and slippery trails
  • It is a full-day hike, it takes 7 to 9 hours to complete it as a round trip.
  • There are no chains, nor very exposed parts, yet some of them are steep
  • Many steeper parts are made of small gravel or dirt and the grip is not the best, especially if it rains
  • There is one river crossing, a wide Jökulgilskvísl river, not very deep; it is possible to cross it on dry feet in dry weather, however, you may need to wade it when there’s more water in the river;
  • It’s a great hike for anyone with hiking experience, even for families experienced in hiking;
  • It’s NOT a hike for the elderly or small children, or anyone used to just hiking for 1 hour and no more
  • Take special care early in the season (June/July), there may be snow bridges with dangerous rivers under them!

landmannalaugar Grænihryggur hike iceland

Unbelievable Grænihryggur hike views

When to hike Graenihryggur

Typically, you can go for the hike any time between the beginning of July and mid-September. Similarly to when F-roads are open, the hike is accessible when there’s no considerable snow on the trails. This usually starts in July, once most of the winter snow has melted, and ends at the end of September when the new snow arrives.

Of course, there are exceptions to the general rules mentioned above. After mild winters, you may be able to hike Graenihryggur even in June and maybe even until October. On the other hand, after very tough winters, you may encounter huge amounts of snow on trails even in July or August. This is exactly what happened to us in late July. The amount of snow was bearable, though, so we could just hike over it and not get stuck in it.

If you are unsure about the current conditions of the trails, it’s always best to contact SafeTravel.is by email, or to ask a local. One last important thing – even in summer, always check the weather forecast before the hike. Don’t hike during strong rain or strong wind, it can be very dangerous. Skies don’t have to be clear, but at least aim for no heavy rain or wind. We also wrote a handy guide on How to find nice weather in Iceland.

Grænihryggur hiking trail iceland

Grænihryggur hiking trail

How to prepare for the hike

  • Wear proper hiking shoes, wind-proof, and water-proof clothes (not just repellent!)
  • Have a winter hat and gloves ready if it’s too chilly
  • Hiking poles are a big plus, although it’s possible to hike also without them (not recommended)
  • Check the local weather forecast, and read tricks on how to manage weather; Go only if it doesn’t rain or blow too much; Ideally no rain at all
  • Check road conditions; you are looking for the green color
  • Better rent a satellite location device if you are not in a big group or not with a local
  • Bring wading shoes and a little towel for river crossing
  • Crampons are not necessary during the main season (July to September) and they won’t help either outside of the season (just don’t go)

graenihryggur hike view

One of the countless picturesque spots during the hike

The main hike – our experience

We drove by the Graenihryggur Halldórsgil trailhead on a cloudy, rainy, and foggy day. Definitely not an ideal day for a hike. We were indecisive about whether to go for the hike or not until the very last minute. Finally, my cousin co-hiker persuaded me to give it a try. And I’m now glad he did because the weather actually improved and the hike was amazing even without sun and clear skies!

We reached the starting point of the trail by our modified Land Cruiser around lunchtime, so pretty late. That was also the reason why we didn’t speculate with longer, unmarked trails, and rather stuck to the classic marked Grænihryggur trail from Halldórsgil canyon. The Halldórsgil trailhead is located just a few minutes of a drive south from the crossroads of F224 and F208.

There’s no car park, but we recognized the trailhead thanks to around 6 local Icelandic cars being parked at the edge of the road. These were apparently no tourists, but locals. We parked our car as the last one in the row, packed our backpacks, and headed out into moody weather.

graenihryggur trailhead

Graenihryggur hike trailhead -the beginning of the hike via Halldórsgil

Halldórsgil canyon trail

The first part of the trail to Graenihryggur is the easiest and also the most boring part of the hike. It leads via Halldórsgil canyon, which is one of the less magnificent Icelandic canyons, yet definitely a peaceful one. You won’t meet many fellow tourists here, as I already mentioned.

We hiked to Grænihryggur in July, in a year of a very strong Icelandic winter. This means we encountered a lot of snow on the trail, even in the second half of July. Soon into the hike, we reached smaller snowfields that got bigger and bigger the further we proceeded with the hike. Some of these snowfields were a bit scary. At one moment we could see a flowing river right under the melting snowfield and we had to walk through this snowfield, hoping not to fall down through it.

Halldórsgil canyon trail Grænihryggur

Snowfields in July on the Halldórsgil canyon trail to Grænihryggur

The ascent was gradual and there were no technical parts in this section of the hike. There was just a lot of walking in the snow, which is naturally more tiring compared to firm terrain. After about an hour of hiking, we stumbled upon the first of many amazing viewpoints. We finally got high enough to be able to observe the monumental Halldórsgil valley from the bird’s eye viewpoint. This is the typical Grænihryggur hike moment – Landmannnalaugar, but different, more remote, and even more magical, everywhere around you.

Crossing Jökulgilskvísl river

After reaching the highest point of the trail, what follows is at times steep and slippery descent all the way down to Jökulgilskvísl river. And yes, you have to cross the Jökulgilskvísl river. Luckily, at the time of our visit in July, it was possible to cross the river with dry feet. The reason is, this is not the main riverbed, it’s just an arm of Jökulgilskvísl. Or better said, many small arms.

graenihryggur river crossing

Graenihryggur river crossing of the river Jökulgilskvísl on our way back

We were able to either hop over some of the river arms or we found some shallower spots where our shoes didn’t get wet, or we managed to find some stones suitable for hopping through. This fun can actually take some time. At least we were able to cross it with dry feet, unlike the river in Vonarskarð.

Now maybe you can guess what follows after this descent? Yes, you’re right, another ascent! And once again slippery and at times steep. This is one of the reasons we don’t recommend hiking Grænihryggur during/after a strong rain. Trails can get wet and even more slippery, and trust me, you don’t want to hike steep trails with mud all over the trails.

Rainbow hills

rainbow hills graenihryggur hike

Rainbow hills on a Grænihryggur hike are some of the most beautiful ones in Landmannalaugar

Despite being a bit more difficult, the hike to Grænihryggur is strikingly beautiful! Most of the time you’re gonna be surrounded by various types and tones of rainbow mountains, feeling totally like in a fairy tale. The weather was far from clear skies during our hike, we nevertheless felt like on another planet anyway.

Shortly before the final ascent of the hike we met the local Icelandic hiking group, which seemed to be just a huge group of friends. At that moment we saw who came with all these local cars 🙂 The group was apparently enjoying their summer hike and making a little picnic with some amazing views over nearby rainbow hills.

graenihryggur green ridge hike iceland

The first glimpse of the green ridge in the distance

Nevertheless, we continued with our hike and eventually reached the plateau, where we could finally see the famous Grænihryggur in the distance! Visibility wasn’t ideal, and Grænihryggur definitely looked much better in reality compared to the pale colors in the pictures. But that’s Iceland! We were happy we caught only a slight drizzle and weak fog and conditions were otherwise nice.

From this point we could already see Graenihryggur in the distance, so we could have easily ended at this spot and turned back, but we wanted to arrive right next to this famous green ridge. That being said we continued further along the trail.

green ridge hike iceland

The final descent towards the green ridge of Grænihryggur

Grænihryggur

The plateau leads to a ridge that can get you all the way right next to Graenihryggur. At this part of the trail, we were able to observe Graenihryggur getting nearer and nearer in front of us with every additional step.

From this ridge, we had to again descend down into the valley and finally reached Graenihryggur with its out-of-this-world colors itself. It’s forbidden to walk over the green ridge, because of the very fragile soil that can be damaged easily. Nevertheless, you can stand by Graenihryggur for as long as you wish and for example take a little picnic, as we did.

This is where the easiest and the most popular “Halldórsgil to Grænihryggur” hiking trail ends. You can then either turn back and follow the same trail back, as we did. Or you can continue with unmarked trails to follow different ways back and/or get to Jökulgil canyon or Landmannalaugar campsite. These trails are more difficult though, and we do not recommend hiking them without extensive hiking skills and/or a local knowledge of the area.

Grænihryggur green ridge

Admiring the famous Grænihryggur green ridge!

Quick hiking Tips

  • Choose a nice day. I know it’s easier to be said than done, we’ve been there. But try to choose a nice day. This at least means no stronger rain and no strong fog. We had a light fog and light rain and the hike was nice anyway. Of course, ideally, you aim for clear skies and no fog, but that may be hard to achieve.
  • Come with a proper 4×4 car. You’re gonna need it to reach the trail.
  • Study beforehand where the trailhead, i.e. the beginning of the trail is located. It may be harder to find, there’s no big sign, nor a car park.
  • Bring hiking poles and good physical health. This hike is not for small children, nor for the elderly.
  • Some climbs are pretty steep but if you are in a good shape they are definitely doable, no chains, no sharp ridges, just typical slippery Icelandic hiking 🙂
  • Enjoy the hike, views, and surroundings are very versatile, Graenihryggur is one of the most beautiful hikes in an entire Iceland in my honest opinion.

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Posted by Igor in Guide, Hikes, 6 comments
Þakgil – Full Guide + Best Hiking Trails

Þakgil – Full Guide + Best Hiking Trails

Þakgil is an amazingly beautiful hiking area, yet there was no detailed guide to Thakgil, nor any detailed description of the best hiking trails in Þakgil. We want to fill this gap and will be writing in deep detail about all the hiking trails, the Thakgil campsite, how to get to Þakgil, what to see, and when to go.

Hikes in Thakgil definitely belong to the best hikes in Iceland. Some people incorrectly spell the Icelandic name Þakgil as “Pakgil”, but it’s not “P”, it’s “TH” as Thór. And Thakgil is a hiking paradise full of canyons, ravines, waterfalls and even melting glaciers! Þakgil is located pretty close to Vik, a very popular city in southern Iceland, very well accessible to all tourists. There are three main hiking trails and several possible detours.

Most of the other blogs out there describe only one of the Þakgil hikes in detail – the purple one – the Remundargil ravine hike. Probably, because it’s the easiest and the quickest one. However, definitely not the most rewarding one 🙂

That being said, we will do the opposite. We will describe in detail our day hike which included hiking a yellow trail and a red trail in Thakgil. These hikes are called the Austurafréttur hike and the Mælifell hike. We also added an amazing hidden bonus – a hike to Huldujökull glacier.

When to visit Þakgil

Same as for all parts of the Highland of Iceland, you can visit Thakgil only in summer when the hiking trails are open. When do hiking trails in Þakgil open? The trails open once there is no snow on the trails. This usually happens any time between the beginning of June and the first half of July.

When do the Thakgil hiking trails close? The trails close after the first heavier snowfall. The first heavier snowfall typically reaches Þakgil at any time between the first half of September and the end of October.

canyon red Mælifell trail Þakgil iceland

Magnificent canyon next to the red Maelifell trail, Þakgil

So, when should you visit Thakgil? To be sure to have clear and dry trails, visit Þakgil between the first half of July and the second half of September. This period also coincides with the mildest and warmest weather, which you will definitely need. For 100% accurate info on the current state of the trails, please contact the campsite or safetravel.is.

Can I visit Þakgil in winter? Outside of the main season? Only in theory. First of all, the road leading to Thakgil is full of snow at that time. Secondly, the trails are full of snow too. This means both the road as well as the trails are very dangerous to navigate and you should never do that without a professional guide. Even with their help, Þakgil is typically inaccessible between October and May.

Tips on the most beautiful places in Icelandic Highlands.

How to get to Þakgil

The only way to get to Thakgil is to use the gravel Road 214, Kerlingardalvegur. Since the road is 16 kilometers (10 miles) long, you have to rent a car or hitchhike. There’s no bus service to Þakgil. You may probably be able to arrange some expensive private transport, but in that case, better rent a car.

road to thakgil iceland

Beginning of the road to Þakgil. This was the easiest part.

Road to Þakgil

Kerlingardalvegur, or Road 214, leading to Thakgil is a pretty bumpy gravel road. Road to Thakgil is officially a normal 3-digit road, however, it could quickly be classified as an F-road. I could easily name several F-roads that are easier (and more comfortable) to drive on than Road 214. The thing is, the road to Þakgil doesn’t contain any river crossings, so they decided to classify it as a normal road.

The road is open to normal vehicles only in summer. In winter there’s usually “no winter service”. What does it mean? Feel free to read our article about Icelandic Roads to find out more. Long story short, expect a very bumpy and slow drive with many potholes and in summer also many fellow tourists.

road 214 Kerlingardalvegur thakgil iceland

Road 214 Kerlingardalvegur to Þakgil on a beautiful sunny day.

Do you need a 4×4 to get to Thakgil? The road to Thakgil is definitely passable also in a 2wd car, but you will feel much safer in a 4×4 car. I’m glad we had our Land Cruiser. This way we didn’t need to worry about any damages to the car’s undercarriage / chassis. Or you can rent with Lotus, the only car rental company in Iceland which insures undercarriage / chassis). If you are interested in details of how car rental insurance works in Iceland, we wrote a detailed guide on that.

All that being said, if you are lucky enough with the weather, the road to Þakgil is amazingly beautiful on a sunny day. A scenic drive through a valley full of river streams, black ash, and green moss hills everywhere around you with a lush green Thakgil valley slowly coming closer to you in the background. Totally worth the bumpy drive.

Parking in Thakgil

The only actual sort of “official” car park in Þakgil is located at the campsite. This is probably the best spot to leave your car and it’s free unless you stay overnight. That would be camping already and you need to pay for that. Not all the hikes in Thakgil begin at the Thakgil campsite, though – see the map of Thakgil hiking trails below.

parking Þakgil iceland

We left our car on the gravel, next to the road, close to the purple hiking trail.

If you want to park your car as close to the beginning of your chosen hiking trail as possible, you may also park the car next to a road, close to the start of the hiking trail (as we did). However, please keep strictly in mind, that you can NOT park on the moss or grass. You have to find a gravel spot or a spot where there’s nothing you may potentially destroy and evidently other cars have already parked there before. Additionally, never leave your car parked on the road itself! Park NEXT to the road. If you are unsure about where to park, better leave your car at the campsite, it’s pretty close to all the trails anyway.

A detailed guide on How to choose the best Car for Iceland.

Thakgil campsite

Þakgil campsite is probably one of the most beautiful campsites in Iceland. Thakgil camping is located directly in the heart of Þakgil. In summer you will be surrounded by magnificent lush green hills and ravines. There’s also a much more expensive possibility to book your private hut. Take a look at the website of the campsite for an up to date info. The website may be a bit outdated from time to time (seems like locals are not much of web admins, understandably) but the phone number is working, so I suggest you call them if you need anything. They do speak (simple) English 🙂

Þakgil campsite iceland

Þakgil campsite

If you want to book a hut or accommodation nearby, we highly suggest you do so enough in advance. Huts in Thakgil are in very high demand in summer. With simple camping, you don’t need to book in advance. It’s a first come, first serve system and I don’t remember the campsite being full at any time. There’s also a possibility to ask for the current trail conditions at the campsite. Sometimes you may also get an accurate answer. Don’t rely on that, though – see our hiking story below :).

Hiking trails in Þakgil

  • Ravine walk from the campsite, 1km, 15-20 minutes
  • Remundargil ravine (purple trail), 13km, 3-5 hours
  • Austurafréttur range (yellow trail), 17km, 6-8 hours
  • Maelifell (red trail), 14km, 4-5 hours
  • Huldujökull glacier detour (white trail), 3km, 1-3 hours
  • Austurafréttur + Maelifell + Huldujökull loop (yellow + red +white trail), 20km, 6-9 hours

Map of the hiking trails in Þakgil

There are 3 main hiking trails in Þakgil – the red trail, the yellow trail, and the purple trail. Then there are several “side” trails. See the hiking map of Thakgil below. This map is accurate and you can rely on it. The original map, however, didn’t mark any dangerous parts, or river crossings. That’s why we added our notes to the map and we suggest you read our entire article if you plan on going hiking in Thakgil.

Map Þakgil hiking trails

Map of Þakgil hiking trails with our notes (click to enlarge)

If I had to rank the main trails by difficulty, the order would be as follows:

  • Common red/yellow trail (the easiest)
  • Yellow and purple trails (medium)
  • Red trail (more difficult)
thakgil all hiking trails map

Local map of all the hiking trails, roads and tracks in Thakgil (click to enlarge)

The alternative map above depicts all these trails (including the detour) and distinguishes between hiking trails only (yellow/green dashed line) and buggy/jeep tracks (brown) which also serve as hiking trails.

Myths and Facts about hiking in Thakgil

The lack of factual information about hiking trails in Thakgil gives rise to many weird myths about Thakgil. Below we answer all questions we’ve heard about Þakgil.

What is the best hiking trail in Thakgil?

The most beautiful trails are the eastern part of the Yellow trail and the western part of the Red trail, in our opinion. They are also the most difficult trail segments. Views from these parts of the trails are simply stunning, see our trip report below. Probably the most beautiful unmarked detour from these trails is a detour to Huldujökull glacier.

Þakgil canyon iceland

The red Mælifell trail is very green, full of spectacular canyons and ravines.

Is one day in Thakgil enough?

If you catch the nice weather, one day is definitely enough to see the best of Þakgil. If you want to hike all the trails, it would take you 2 days if you are a quick hiker, and 3 days if you are a slow hiker. Just bear in mind, the trails and the surrounding landscapes are somewhat similar, so it doesn’t entirely make sense to hike every single inch of all of them.

The yellow and the red trail may be done in 1 day as a huge loop. This is exactly what we’ve done and couldn’t be happier! Totally worth every mile! The yellow and the red trail are pretty diverse and quite different from each other – it felt like hiking at two different places. The entire loop took us 9 hours to finish, including many photo pauses, a longer lunch break, and losing almost an hour by finding the proper route when crossing the river. See our trip report below.

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How difficult are the hiking trails in Thakgil?

The hiking trails in Þakgil are of medium difficulty. They are definitely not easy hikes for families with little children or for the elderly. They are also not any mountaineering expeditions. No special equipment is required in summer. We recommend taking hiking poles and if you plan to hike the red trail, then also water shoes for the river crossing.

maelifell red hiking trail thakgil iceland

Steep descent from the red hiking trail in Þakgil

Can you get to Thakgil with a 2wd car?

Yes, you can, but you will have to drive slowly and there’s a chance you may damage your car because the road to Thakgil is very bumpy. We recommend taking any 4wd car and driving carefully.

Is the yellow trail the most beautiful one?

We think that the eastern part of the yellow trail and the western part of the red trail are the most beautiful trails. If we had to choose just one, it would be a hard decision. The yellow trail is definitely an easier one, though, with no river crossings.

The least exciting trail is the common red/yellow trail because it leads via old jeep tracks. This part of the trail is, on the other hand, also the easiest part to hike. If you aim for a worry-free hike, or you are simply hiking in unfavorable weather, then go for this trail.

yellow trail Þakgil iceland

Amazing views from the yellow hiking trail in Þakgil

Should you do the Þakgil hikes only in the nice weather?

Yes, definitely. Aim for clear skies and no strong winds. The hikes are doable in light rain and slightly windy weather, but if it gets worse, they may be pretty dangerous. There are some steep ridges and slippery parts, so please, choose your day wisely and better turn back when feeling unsafe.

Especially the western part of the red trail and the eastern part of the yellow trail are pretty dangerous if it strongly rains/snows/wind blows, regardless of your hiking experience. The common red/yellow trail should be fine because it leads through the old road/track. However, consider also the views – if it’s foggy, you will see nothing despite doing a pretty demanding hike.

Is the yellow trail dangerous?

I’ve read that the yellow trail is pretty demanding, steep, and dangerous at some points and you should better do it starting from the east (counter-clockwise).

Well, I don’t think this is true. From our experience, the route is doable in both directions in good weather and if you are used to longer hikes. If you are not used to hiking, then yes, this trail is demanding and possibly dangerous.

rainy red trail thakgil iceland

Rainy picture from the middle of the red hiking trail in Þakgil. Still amazing views.

All trails are dangerous during bad weather, like strong rain, strong wind, snow, or bad visibility due to fog. In the nice weather, the yellow trail is not more dangerous than the other trails of Thakgil in any way. In fact, the most dangerous trail is the red trail in our opinion, due to the sharp ridge part and river crossings.

Do you have to cross the river during the hikes?

Only when hiking the red Maelifell trail. There are 3 river crossings located close to the campsite. The river is pretty fast flowing and it’s no joke to ford it, see our experience below. Take water shoes, adhere to river fording principles, and always hike at minimum in a group of 2.

Is the purple trail and the common red/yellow trail worth hiking?

Of course, they are worth hiking 🙂 The entire Þakgil area is totally beautiful and all the hikes are nice. We are just cherry-picking here the best out of the already beautiful options.

Hiking the Yellow and Red trail loop – our experience

view top maelifell thakgil iceland

Our rainy and a bit foggy view from top of Mælifell red trail in Thakgil

Yellow hiking trail in Thakgil, also known as Austurafréttur, is one of the two hikes we consider the most amazing in Thakgil and also the most difficult. The second one is the red trail to Maelifell. Here is a link to our Wikiloc hiking trail in Þakgil.

The yellow trail is probably slightly easier than the red one, though. You may form your own opinion after reading our report. As you can see on the map, there are several options for how to hike the yellow trail. We chose the counter-clockwise direction, i.e. an ascent from the east and a hike towards the Austurafréttur range. It took us 3 hours one way to hike the eastern part of the yellow trail and to reach the Huldujökull glacier.

Map yellow red trail loop Thakgil

Map of the yellow-red loop hiking trail in Þakgil we took

There are several different starting points for the yellow trail available. We aimed to choose the “most efficient” starting point to minimize walking on the road and maximize hiking the trail itself. That being said, we parked our car at the intersection of the road to Þakgil and the purple hiking trail, see above.

We had first crossed the little stream next to the road, then ascended up via the purple trail, and then continued to the north via the yellow trail.

The ascent towards the Remundargil ravine

We started our hike by first crossing the river. It was possible to cross the river by jumping and we didn’t have to take our shoes off. Hiking poles definitely helped. The river is pretty narrow, though, and it was also possible to find some “jumping stones” to cross the river through. Afterward, the hike began with a pretty steep, but safe, climb on the purple trail. The climb led to the intersection with the yellow trail, up on the ridge.

remundargil ravine Þakgil iceland

First ascent via the purple Remundargil ravine trail crossing our yellow trail. Our car is in the distance.

Technically, we haven’t done the “entire“ yellow trail, because we made a shortcut via the purple trail, and the yellow trail continues further toward the southeast. Nevertheless, we made this decision on purpose, because we wanted to save some time for a hike towards Huldujökull. Moreover, the southernmost part of the yellow trail (which we skipped) is said to be the least interesting one.

A pretty steep, but short ascent via the purple trail led us up towards an intersection with a yellow trail, where we continued left on the yellow trail. After finishing the ascent, you will be rewarded with amazingly beautiful 360 degrees views. Only 15 minutes into the hike and you may already admire the stunning beauty of Þakgil from this viewpoint. Our car already looked so tiny in the distance after the climb.

Austurafréttur trail

I’ve read on some blogs that the yellow trail is unmarked. This is not true at all. The yellow trail is well-marked. After an intersection of a purple and a yellow trail, the yellow trail then continues to the north as a gravel path. This part of the trail is slightly boring but doesn’t last very long. No worries, many nice views are yet to come.

yellow hiking trail austurafrettur Þakgil iceland

View after the first ascent towards Austurafréttur range – the yellow hiking trail

You will soon reach a point where you have to perform one additional steep ascent. This ascent leads via the old moss field and can be very tricky if it’s wet because it can become pretty slippery. We had perfect weather with blue skies, therefore also no problems with the ascent at all, just burning some calories. After this last ascent, the trail mostly continues as a gravel path along the eastern edge of the pretty wide Austurafréttur ridge.

Another picturesque viewpoint will soon pop up on your right – a view over a gigantic Kötlujökull glacier. This viewpoint may serve as one of the great picnic spots as well. The yellow trail then continues further north along the edge of the ridge and several little waterfalls and canyons can be observed in the distance, right next to the Kötlujökull glacier.

Kotlujökull glacier Þakgil iceland

Views over the Kotlujökull glacier from the yellow Austurafréttur range trail

You will then reach the point where the yellow trail (and marks) start turning left and lead to the dirt tracks probably used by jeeps or ATVs/quad bikes. This is where the marked yellow trail connects to the dirt road and continues back west to the intersection with the red trail. On top of the yellow trail to the left, however, you have the option to continue further north towards Huldujökull glacier. This is exactly what we’ve done and what I highly recommend on a nice day!

Hike to Huldujökull glacier

After hiking the eastern part of the yellow trail, you will reach an intersection of yellow marks (continuing to the left) and white marks (continuing straight ahead in the northern direction). We followed the white marks and made a detour away from the yellow trail towards the melting Huldujökull glacier (which our friend Dace kindly pointed out to us, thank you!). An ideal time to hike this trail is summer – because this is when the glacier melting may actually be observed and witnessed in real time!

Huldujökull glacier hike Þakgil iceland

Amazing views at the melting Huldujökull glacier in Þakgil

White Trail

You won’t find a white hiking trail to Huldujökull on a classical hiking map, only on a local Icelandic map. It leads via a pretty dull stony/gravel path on the eastern edge of this Thakgil ridge. However, the trail itself is not your main aim here. Instead, you aim for reaching the Huldujökull Glacier, which will slowly start to reveal itself in front of you (on a nice day with good visibility). Hiking the white/unmarked trail to the glacier and back took us roughly 2.5 hours including a lunch break and many pauses for photos.

thakgil huldujokull glacier white trail

Scarce white marks on the white “bonus” trail leading to amazing Huldujökull melting glacier in Þakgil

If I remember correctly, at some point even white marks disappeared. Nevertheless, the orientation is not that hard, because you more or less hike pretty close to the eastern edge of the wide ridge all the time. After the marks had disappeared, we simply followed the edge until the edge basically ended. This included a few little ascents and descents on stony terrain. Although being unmarked, a walk like this is perfectly fine, unless you don’t damage anything “alive” (like moss, please don’t step on any!).

Huldujökull Glacier Views

There are many different viewpoints of Huldujökull, just have in mind where it’s located and you can definitely get there. I don’t recommend going in foggy or (strongly) rainy weather though. Not only you will not see a thing but you may also get lost.

thakgil iceland melting glacier trail

Final, unmarked part of the trail leading to the melting Huldujökull glacier

After reaching the northern edge of this Thakgil ridge a monumental view over almost the entire Huldujökull Glacier opened directly in front of us. And not only that! We had a chance to witness a bit sad but amazingly beautiful phenomenon of a melting glacier! Right in front of us. We were even lucky enough to observe and hear a massive fall of part of the glacier into the ravine below, due to thawing. I’ve caught one of these falls on camera (see the video below, to be added later). Power of nature as a live broadcast.

We made a little picnic with views over a thawing glacier and soaked up the sunrays on this heavenly beautiful day. We then admired the glacier from many viewpoints, hiking a bit to the west. Subsequently, we hiked back via an unmarked trail to reach the yellow, marked one. We’ve first seen the yellow marks and then reached the intersection of a red and a yellow trail.

Huldujökull glacier Þakgil iceland

The end of the partially unmarked white hiking trail in Þakgil

Hiking the Red trail to Mælifell

The red trail in Thakgil is full of lush green valleys and peaks, amazing canyons, and green river valley views. We totally recommend it, just please go only if you are a more experienced hiker. There are 2-3 pretty exposed and steep parts towards the southern part of the trail. It took us 4-5 hours one way to complete the western part of the red trail, including a 1-hour search for the correct river crossing route.

thakgil red hiking trail maelifell

Beginning of the red hiking trail, near the top, near the intersection with the yellow trail. Mælifell on the right.

Originally, we had planned on doing only the yellow trail, i.e. we had wanted to descend back via the common yellow/red trail (western part of the yellow trail / eastern part of the red trail). However, once we reached the intersection of a yellow and a red trail, we realized that this “common yellow and red trail” is simply a rough track for jeeps/ATVs. And, we rather prefer driving the tracks than hiking on them. That being said, we rather wanted to descend back via a pure hiking trail – which is exactly what a western part of the red trail is.

At that point I texted our friend Dace, asking whether the common red/yellow trail is worth the hike. She responded that this was the only option, because a map at the campsite showed some “X” marks on the red trail, indicating that the red trail may have some obstacles or impassable spots. Therefore, I decided to call the campsite directly and ask about the red trail. After a few minutes of trying hard to explain that we want to ask about the conditions of the red trail, I didn’t get any answer. The other side didn’t understand what we were asking about.

red trail thakgil iceland

Hiking near the top of the red Mælifell trail in Þakgil

Finally, we made a decision to try the red trail and in case we reach any impassable point, we still had enough time to turn back and hike down via the easier trail/track. Unfortunately, as is often the case in Iceland, the weather turned from clear blue skies to quite annoying rain. Still not strong enough to change our plans, though.

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Ascent to Mælifell

The northernmost part of the red trail (where we began our hike) leads to a mountain called Mælifell. Beware, this is not the same Maelifell as this one. Probably the most famous “Maelifell” is instead located next to the road F210, Fjallabaksleið Syðri. Did you know that there are actually more than 10 Mælifells in Iceland? Just to make it easier for a foreign visitor 🙂 Nevertheless. This Maelifell was nice too and more so were the views from the top of it!

This part of the red trail to Mælifell in Þakgil is quite easy and even in normal rain, it wasn’t complicated to hike it. Contrary to the gravel/glacier scenery of the yellow trail, the surroundings of the red trail are much much greener. The final ascent to Mælifell is a bit steeper but fairly short.

peak view red trail thakgil iceland

Foggy and rainy view from the peak of Mælifell on the red trail in Þakgil

After reaching the peak, you will be rewarded with some of the best views over the entire Thakgil! I definitely recommend this detour (even if you then turn back to the yellow route) on a nice day! Unfortunately, this was the point when it rained the most during our trip and also Mrs. Fog came to visit us, so the view was a bit blurred but amazing anyway.

Green canyons and ravines

What follows next during the middle part of the red trail is a pretty easy walk on the western edge of a Thakgil ridge. Stunning views over huge canyons on your right will be your company all along this part of the red trail. There are several scenic photo spots worth stopping at. One of these spots is a view over a gigantic green canyon, multiple times more spectacular compared to, for example, a very touristy Fjaðrárgljúfur canyon. And guess what, you will have it all for yourself! The chances that you will meet someone here are close to zero. We met exactly ZERO people on this trail! Besides that, a lot of friendly trail-following sheep will be your guides.

canyon red trail Þakgil Iceland

Me in front of the huge canyon on the red trail in Thakgil (better then Fjadrargljufur!)

Slippery ridges and descent to a hut

The trickiest part of the red trail is located in the southwestern part of the trail, roughly more than halfway into the hike (halfway of the western part of the red trail). It’s near a spot marked on maps as “Barð”. This tricky part is a pretty exposed ridge followed by a steep and slippery descent. By an exposed ridge I mean a narrow hiking trail with steep falls both to your left and to your right. Definitely not for anyone with a fear of heights. This is where the hiking poles were priceless to maintain our balance. I don’t want to even imagine doing this in a strong wind, or strong rain. Stay away from this part in unfavorable weather!

After a short walk via the exposed ridge, a steep, slippery, and again exposed ridge descent continues for about 50 meters. This was the worst part of the hike for me because personally I just hate terrain where I don’t have any firm ground to walk on available. I have to admit I had to step inch by inch because I felt like slipping and falling with each step. Thus, these 50 meters took me about 15 minutes to finish. My cousin finished this quite quickly, though, so maybe it’s just my problem with these steep and slippery trails ^^.

steep red hiking trail Þakgil iceland

The most exposed part of the red hiking trail in Þakgil. It’s much scarier in reality.

Nevertheless, despite this part of the red trail being dangerous, it is amazingly beautiful too! View over the entire valley and all of the river arms was spectacular and we totally enjoyed it. The descent soon turned into a much safer one, and ended all the way down in the river valley, right next to an empty mountain hut. There’s also a track for jeeps leading to the hut, including several interesting (and not that small) river crossings. The track was easy to be observed from above when descending.

River crossings

There’s a big and fast-flowing river right next to the hut. This is also where the well-trodden path ends. We were able to spot the next red trail mark far in the distance on the other side of the river. Well, this meant, we had to cross the river. But the question was – where? Right next to the hut, the crossing simply looked too wide and the river too fast-flowing to be safe. Moreover, we left our water shoes in the car, so we aimed for crossing without getting our feet wet. And this finally turned out to be an unachievable task.

maelifell red trail Þakgil steepest part

The steepest and most slippery ridge a) from above, b) from below. Much worse in reality than in the picture.

Long story short, we first hiked along the eastern bank of the river only to realize there was no way to continue. Firstly, we climbed a little hill on the left (where we saw human steps) and continued, but the river looked nothing like anything you wanted to cross. A fast stream and very wide even at this spot. We tried for about an hour to find a spot where to cross but unsuccessfully. Turning back was not an option at this point, we were already about half an hour of walking away from our car.

At this point, I finally remembered reading about the red trail before our trip. I forgot that one of the route descriptions mentioned “you may have to cross a river; several times”. Well, the hell they were right. My cousin resigned a bit at that time, rather wanting to hike his own way via huge hills to our right. This wasn’t an option for me because it was both dangerous and illegal, creating your new own route in an unknown place. Luckily, we met a local glacier guide hiking this trail for the first time too, struggling to find a spot to continue and ford the rivers as well.

Þakgil iceland red trail river crossings

The best spot where to cross the first river arm on the red Maelifell trail. Don’t have pics of the other 2 fords :-/ (click to enlarge)

After a little brainstorming, the glacier guide approved my idea, that we should cross the river where cars cross. My reasoning was that Icelanders probably know why they cross the river there with their cars. The spot where cars cross should (generally) be shallow enough also for people to cross. Some of us took our shoes off, some crossed in their shoes. We held each other’s arms and crossed slightly upstream – exactly according to river wading guidelines. A river reached our knees at the worst point and was flowing pretty fast, but we made it without major problems to the other bank.

We followed the car tracks afterward, which, however, soon disappeared. And the river appeared again. Another river crossing. At that point, I remembered again what the description said: “you may have to cross a river; several times”. I see now. Several times. To make it shorter – we crossed again, the same technique, only this time the current was much stronger. At one point I felt like the current might drag me down, but this is where holding each other’s arms totally helped and we crossed successfully.

There was one last crossing (the smallest one) before we reached road 214 to Thakgil. After 9 hours of hiking, we happily got into our cars again, thanking god for all – a beautiful day, views, making it safely back, and successfully finishing all these adventures! What a day!

huldujokull glacier thakgil iceland

Enjoying out-of-this-world views over Huldujökull Glacier in Þakgil

Tips for hiking in Thakgil

  1. Pick a day with good weather. I know it’s not that easy, but at least try. We wrote a handy guide on How to find nice weather in Iceland. Nice weather, at minimum, means no strong wind and no strong rain. Some trails are pretty dangerous to hike in bad weather. Secondly, I more than just recommend going in clear weather, i.e. no fog or very little fog. You may have good weather but with poor visibility, all the spectacular views may be gone. But fog is still a better alternative compared to rain and wind, which, when being strong, are dangerous.
  2. Wear proper clothes and gear. Good hiking shoes, layers, and one waterproof (not water-repellent) layer for both trousers and jacket are a must. I highly advise taking hiking poles as well, they are amazing support on all kinds of slippery terrain. Take a GPS with trail coordinates at least in your phone as well. If you are a novice hiker, you better rent a Location Device or a satellite phone.
  3. Don’t go alone and bring water shoes and a little towel, if you plan to hike a red trail. There will be river crossings. Cross them where cars cross and slightly upstream, holding arms of each other as support.
  4. Try both the yellow and the red trails, they are amazing! Of course, only if you already have an experience with all-day hikes. You can hike the yellow and the red trail both in one day or as separate day hikes.
  5. Don’t be shy to change your plans and/or turn back if the weather worsens or if you get lost. You don’t want to get injured or die in here.

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Westman Islands – Full Guide + Top Things to Do [our experience]

Westman Islands – Full Guide + Top Things to Do [our experience]

We wrote this detailed guide to Westman islands, including top things to do in Westman islands, to help you with our practical, in-depth experience, unlike other often very shallow blogs out there. We include detailed info about what to see in Westman Islands, a ferry to Heimaey island, the need to have a car, the best hikes, our favorite spots, puffins and many more.

Map of Westman Islands

Below you may find the handy map of Heimaey, the biggest of all Westman islands. Heimaey map depicts all interesting spots on the Westman Islands and should help you orientate much better. Here is also the detailed map of Vestmannaeyjar town.

westmann islands map

Local map of the Westman islands (click to enlarge)

Westman Islands, or in Icelandic Vestmannaeyjar, is an amazingly picturesque group of islands very close to and well accessible from the touristy south coast of Iceland. Are Westman islands worth visiting? The answer depends, but most of the time it’s definitely yes.

What are the top places in the Westman islands? And how much time should you devote to a visit to Vestmannaeyjar? We answer all of these questions in our new guide to the Westman islands below. We also include a lot of our own experience with visiting the islands.

The main, the most diverse, and the most visited Westman island with all the infrastructure is called Heimaey. In the entire text below, we will be referring to Heimaey only, if not stated otherwise.

Vestmannaeyjar heimaey town

Vestmannaeyjar Heimaey town

How to get to Westman islands?

First and foremost, the only way to get to Westman islands is by ferry, a private boat, or by plane. Undoubtedly the most comfortable and also the most widely used option is by taking a ferry. Alternatively, you may book a boat tour to or around Westman islands, see below. There’s also a small airport for small airplanes, though this option is usually not used much, because it’s definitely the most expensive one and also not that flexible.

A detailed guide on How to choose the best Car for Iceland.

Westman Islands Ferry

The most used, most flexible, most affordable, and in our opinion also the best option to visit Westman islands is by taking a ferry. You can check all the current information about the ferry on the official Icelandic website of the Westman islands ferry company called Herjólfur.

Vestmannaeyjar ferry

Ferry heading from Landeyjahöfn to Vestmannaeyjar

Westman Islands ferry schedule

In summer AND when the weather is fine, the ferry departs from the closest possible harbor, the harbor in Landeyjahöfn. How long is the ferry? The sailing time is about 40 minutes and in summer there are 7 different time slots available each day. In case the weather is NOT favorable, the ferry has to take the longer route and it departs from Þorlákshöfn instead and just twice a day. The journey from Þorlákshöfn to the Westman islands takes about 3 hours and can be very bumpy.

Landeyjahöfn ferry schedule:

  • Departures from Landeyjahöfn daily at 8:15, 10:45, 13:15, 15:45, 18:15, 20:45 and 23:15
  • Departures from Vestmannaeyjar daily at 7:00, 9:30, 12:00, 14:30, 17:00, 19:30 and 22:00

Þorlákshöfn ferry schedule:

  • Departures from Þorlákshöfn at 10:45 and 20:45
  • Departures from Vestmannaeyjar at 7:00 and 17:00
westman islands ferry

Westman islands ferry. Source: https://herjolfur.is/

How to book a ferry to the Westman islands?

Book only and only via the official Icelandic ferry company called Herjólfur. Although this name is not very user-friendly, this is the ONLY OFFICIAL ferry website! All the other websites (for example www.visitwestmanislands.com) are just re-sellers or other tour operators. This means they will take a commission to book on Herjólfur on your behalf. We always book directly with Herjólfur, because booking with someone else is an unnecessary complication.

To book a ferry, simply visit www.herjolfur.is and make a booking for the desired time. There’s a full refund policy up to 24 hours before the departure for all payments made by a debit/credit card. You’re gonna pay 500ISK (about 4 USD) for each change/cancellation. If your sail is canceled, you will be offered an alternative time. If there’s a chance a ferry may be full, you will be put on a waiting list – see below.

ferry to westman islands

Ferry to Westman islands, passenger deck

How far in advance should you buy a ferry ticket to the Westman islands?

To have a 100% certainty to get a spot (especially if you take your car), of course, you need to book in advance. Is there a chance you will get a spot even if you don’t book in advance? Yes, most of the time you can get the spot, even in summer. What we’ve done and what we also suggest is booking a few days in advance. This way you can book only on a day with nice weather and you have a high chance to get the spot as well.

The alternative with even bigger certainty, just a little bit more work, is booking further in advance and then rescheduling a few days before your trip. Yes, it will cost you a few dollars but it will leave you full peace of mind.

The ferry is usually fully booked on Icelandic summer holidays and also during summer festivities and festivals. Check those carefully, because if you plan to visit Westman islands on these dates, you really need to book very far in advance (months). You can find the list of all events happening on the Westman Islands here.

Moreover, if you are visiting without a car, the chances for a free slot are very high most of the time. Because there are naturally much more spots available for pedestrians compared to cars.

heimaey harbor Vestmannaeyjar

Heimaey harbor, Vestmannaeyjar

We wanted to visit Westman islands with our car in July, i.e. in full season, but only on a nice day (see weather section below). In Facebook groups, everybody was scaring people out that they should book the ferry months in advance. We didn’t follow this advice. Instead, I checked every day the availability on www.herjolfur.is for our planned days of visit and what I observed was that the availability was always there even for all the time slots. Hence, I booked the ferry just 3 days in advance, to be sure about the nice weather.

I recommend you the same strategy as we conducted above. Just beware of the Icelandic holidays and festivals. And, secondly, I don’t recommend booking totally last minute (like on the same day). This is a bit too late in my opinion.

We actually even had a pretty good “last minute” booking and rescheduling experience with the ferry. We booked a ferry from Landeyjahöfn for 20th July for 2 people and also for 1 normal car for 8:30 in the morning and back from Westman islands at 22:00. Finally, we finished our day quite soon, around 16:00, so we decided to try our luck and catch a ferry back at 17:00. I asked at the ticket office at 16:30 and they told me that they need to first put us on the waiting list to see whether there’s any spot left. The ferry had first boarded everyone else and in the end, they shouted our names to indicate there was still some space. This way we got back 5 hours earlier, even at the last minute without re-booking in advance.

elephant rock westman islands

The famous Elephant rock on the western coast of Vestmannaeyjar

How often does the ferry to Westman Islands get Canceled?

Cancellations happen only when the weather or seas are too harsh to sail. This almost never happens in summer, i.e. between June and September. From October until May cancellations happen from time to time, usually during weather alerts, i.e. on average around twice a month.

The ferry is only very rarely canceled completely, instead, it sails from the bigger harbor called Þorlákshöfn instead. The sail in this case, however, takes a very long time, usually around 3 hours. It Is also often pretty unpleasant due to huge waves. If the ferry gets canceled last minute, you will be always offered an alternative time slot, just bear in mind your trip schedule will change in this case. But hey, that’s Iceland, get used to it!

best hikes heimaey westman islands

Eldfell volcano hike is one of the easiest and most beautiful ones

How much time do you need on the Westman Islands?

You can easily see the best spots of the Westman Islands in 1 day. The main Heimaey island is pretty small and if you have a car, 1 day is more than enough to explore it. If you enjoy traveling slowly, you can go for 2 days, but not more.

So how should you decide? We managed to see everything we wanted in under 7 hours, including the two most beautiful hikes of the Westman islands. We had a car, which helped a lot with cutting down the transportation times. To sum up – for us – 1 day was more than enough. If you have nice weather. And if you have a car.

Tips on the most beautiful places in Icelandic Highlands.

If you really want to take it slowly and/or you simply have to arrive late, and/or the weather is not that nice, in that case, I recommend you go for 2 days, but not more. Heimaey is not that big and, unless you just want to sit and chill, you will not have much to do there after some time.

heimaklettur hike westman islands

Heimaklettur hike is our favorite hike of the Westman islands

Do you need a car on the Westman islands?

You don’t need a car, but we recommend you bring one. A car will make your visit to the Westman islands much more comfortable and flexible. Why? Well, yes, everything is within “walking distance” on Westman islands. BUT. This walking distance sometimes means walking 40-60 minutes just on an ordinary road for cars. And that’s not very pleasant. We’ve actually met several walking-only visitors who tried to hitchhike with us, unfortunately, our car was totally packed up with stuff.

Not to mention if the weather worsens. Trust me, you don’t want to stay outside in bad weather on the Westman islands 😉 That being said, if you have a lot of time and you really need to save money, then yes, you can definitely visit Westman islands also without a car. However, if you are either short on time or if you prefer more comfort, I totally recommend rather bringing a car, the cost of doing so is not that horrible.

westman islands western coast puffins

The western coast of Heimaey, popular puffin watching area

Can you walk around Vestmannaeyjar?

Yes, everything on the main Heimaey island is within a walking distance. Just bear in mind weather may often be uncomfortable for walking. Secondly, if you plan to see puffins in the southern part of the island, the walk there from the harbor is a pretty long one and takes around 40-60 minutes. Thirdly, there are no pedestrian roads, so you will need to walk on normal roads for cars.

When to visit Westman islands

Long story short, in good weather 🙂 I know this is easier to be said than done, but it is especially true for Vestmannaeyjar. In our opinion visiting the islands in foggy weather is simply not worth it. Westman islands are all about amazingly beautiful views and you will get none of these in a fog or mist. The same applies to heavy rain or heavy wind.

heimaklettur hiking trail westman islands

Sun shining in July during the Heimaklettur hike

Westman islands are sometimes called the windiest place in Europe. For some reason. Weather can get pretty ugly here from time to time, especially the wind. That being said, do what you can to try and pick a nice day for a visit – we wrote a guide on that. Now, what is a nice day? Well, ideally no heavy rain, no heavy wind, and no fog. Light rain is OK, the medium wind is OK, and a light fog is OK.

Westman islands in Summer

Logically, summer is the most popular time to visit Vestmannaeyjar. Seas are calm, the weather is at its best and naturally also the number of visitors skyrockets. We carefully waited for a day with blue skies in July to visit Westman islands and we didn’t regret it, not even for a second. Crowds were bearable and nice weather was more than just worth waiting for it.

Judge yourself from our pictures taken just by our phones. To conclude – we totally recommend a visit in summer, i.e. from June to September. An alternative to visiting islands in the main season is a near-summer shoulder season when the old snow has already melted and the new one hasn’t arrived yet. This period usually lasts during a warm April or May, and October.

eldfell volcano hiking trail

Eldfell hiking trail is best enjoyed in summer

When visiting Heimaey, definitely consider also a puffin-watching season! Puffins typically arrive at Westman islands in late April, or in May and leave in the second half of August, when they begin to migrate south for the winter.

Westman islands in Winter

It’s definitely possible to visit Westman islands also in winter. The ferry runs all year long. One of the things you will be rewarded with in winter is you will probably be there alone with locals only. Very few visitors come to Vestmannaeyjar in winter. Why? It’s much harder to catch a day with nice weather, plus islands may be covered with snow. And Westman islands are at their most beautiful in lush green colors.

westman islands in winter

Westman islands in winter

Moreover, you will often need to take a much longer ferry ride from Þorlákshöfn, due to harsh weather or rough seas, which may cost you not only time but probably also several unpleasant moments of sea sickness. Is it then worth it to visit Westman islands in winter? We recommend a winter visit only if you have a lot of time and if you can be flexible and reschedule your trip based on nice weather. We think Vestmannaeyjar is much nicer in summer, with melted snow.

Should I visit Westman islands if …?

I have 7 days to do the ring road

Personally, I would visit Westman islands only if I had enough time for a time-flexible, stress-free visit in nice weather. 7 days for the ring road doesn’t sound like enough time at all. Therefore, the answer is no, I would not visit Vestmannaeyjar in this case.

I have 14 days in Iceland

Well in this case it depends on what your priorities are. Is it a ring road at a relaxed pace? Do you want to do a lot of highlands? All of these are definitely manageable also along a visit to Westman islands, but you need to set your priorities. If you are able to wait for nice weather to visit the islands and this will not ruin your plan, then definitely go for Westman islands.

heimaklettur peak

Chilling at the peak of Heimaklettur on a beautiful July day

I stay just 4 days in Reykjavik

If you stay in Reykjavik only, this probably means you will be taking some day trips only and probably by tour companies only. So, a better question would be – should I book a day tour to Westman islands (10% discount code: EPICICELAND24)? My answer would be – on a nice day, why not? It would be an amazingly beautiful, but long day.

I will be in Iceland for a month

Totally go also for the Westman islands. Totally worth it. And wait for nice weather, please 🙂

Many useful discounts on Icelandic car rentals and Guided tours.

Parking, Accommodation, and Food

All of the above, parking, food, and accommodation are easy to get on Heimaey. Just with accommodation be sure to book enough in advance.

Where to park on Westman islands?

Parking is free at Westman islands and there are enough car parks. Just adhere to basic parking rules. For example, don’t block the roads, someone’s private property, or anything similar. You can park for free also at Landeyjahöfn harbor when waiting for a ferry and also at Heimaey island harbor.

westman islands eldfell volcano hike

Views from Eldfell volcano, the most popular Westmann islands hike

Where to stay?

There are several cozy accommodation options. We recommend you take a look yourself and pick the one you like.

Should you book accommodation on Westman islands in advance? Totally. With lodgings, we recommend booking them several months in advance, when coming in summer. Hotels and guesthouses (excluding dorm rooms) tend to get fully booked. Dorm rooms are usually available even last minute.

Where to eat?

There are several restaurants, don’t worry, you will definitely find something which suits your taste buds. Just look at Google Maps. We dined at a gas station, which is the cheapest option. Food definitely isn’t our priority when coming to Iceland 🙂

How to see puffins on the Westman Islands

Heimaey is home to the largest puffin colony in the world, with over a million puffins nesting on the island each year. That’s why many visitors come to the Westman islands specifically to see the puffins. Your chances of seeing puffins at Vestmannaeyjar from May until August along the southwestern coast will be pretty high.

Vestmannaeyjar puffins

Vestmannaeyjar puffins, Stórhöfði puffin lookout

To see the puffins, you can also take a boat tour from the town of Vestmannaeyjar on Heimaey. These tours depart from the harbor and take you to several locations around the islands where you can observe the puffins in their natural habitat nesting and hunting near the cliffs.

Are Westman islands the best place in Iceland to see puffins?

There are many great spots to observe puffins in Iceland. Vestmannaeyjar is just one of many. Other popular puffin-watching spots include Dyrhólaey in the south, Borgarfjörður eystri in the east, Grimsey island in the north, Látrabjarg cliffs in Westfjords or Lóndrangar cliffs on Snæfellsnes. Westman islands are not superior to any of these spots, so just pick the place which suits you.

Where to see puffins on the Westman Islands?

The puffins can be observed at several locations on the island, including Stórhöfði, a rocky headland on the southern coast of Heimaey, or the entire western coast all the way up to the famous Elephant rock in the northwest.

The best spot to see puffins on Vestmannaeyjar is in our opinion the puffin lookout located right before the final ascent to Stórhöfði. The easiest way to get to the puffin lookout at Stórhöfði is by car or by minibus tour.

Stórhöfði puffin lookout Vestmannaeyjar

Stórhöfði puffin lookout

When to see puffins on the Westman Islands?

The highest chances of observing puffins are from the second half of May until the end of July. Puffins typically come back to the Westman islands in late April, or in early May and leave in the second half of August, when they begin to migrate south for the winter.

Is there any specific time of the day when puffins are the most active? Puffins are most active early in the morning and late in the evening, as they spend much of the day out at sea feeding. Late afternoons are also favorable because the puffins are more likely to return to their nests or leave to go to sea. That being said, there are almost always some puffins during the main season, throughout the day. The specific time of the day is just about their quantity and their specific behavior rather than seeing them at all.

How to see the best of the Westman Islands in 1 day – our itinerary

  • Arrive by a morning ferry from Landeyjahöfn at 8:55 or 11:20
  • Take a car to have maximum flexibility
  • Hike the Eldfell volcano from the western car park
  • Go see puffins at the Stórhöfði lookout
  • Visit Elephant rock via the golf course
  • Hike the steep Heimaklettur hill
  • Pay a short visit to the Urðaviti Lighthouse
  • Bonus places: Herjólfsdalur hike, Beluga whale sanctuary, Eldheimar museum, Vikin black beach, Guided boat tours
  • Take a ferry back to Landeyjahöfn in the evening

Are Westman islands worth it for a day?

Westman islands are definitely worth a 1-day visit. In fact, 1 day is more than enough to see the best of Vestmannaeyjar, when the weather is favorable. Heimaey island is pretty small and with the help of a car, you can easily see everything in one day. We don’t recommend a visit in bad weather, including huge fog, strong rain, or very strong winds. In that case, either reschedule your trip or book for more days to wait for a clear day.

heimaklettur hike steep trailhead

Heimaklettur hike steep trailhead (click to enlarge)

Top things to do on the Westman islands – our experience

We wanted to visit Westman islands sometime between 19th and 23rd July, waiting for nice weather. We had accommodation within a 2-hour drive from Landeyjahöfn. I finally made a booking for a ferry 3 days in advance and booked for 2 people plus a car. Roundtrip at 8:15 from Landeyjahöfn and back at 22:00. This should have been more than enough and it actually even was. We returned earlier, already seeing everything we wanted (including the 2 most beautiful hikes) in roughly 7 hours, at a relatively quick pace.

What are the best hikes on the Westman islands?

There are basically only 4 main hikes which you may all easily complete even in one day. Our favorite hikes were an easy hike to the Eldfell volcano and a technically difficult hike to Heimaklettur with amazingly beautiful views over the islands.

heimaklettur views westman islands

Views from the Heimaklettur hike on the Westman islands

The number one activity we more than just recommend in Westman islands is hiking. There are several amazingly beautiful hikes, each one a bit different and you should totally do at least two of them. These hikes were an absolute highlight of our trip to Vestmannaeyjar. Here is the list of all Westman islands’ hiking trails.

Hike to Heimaklettur

If I had to pick one most amazing and beautiful place on Westman islands, it would be Heimaklettur. The hike to Heimaklettur starts as a bit scary ascent with ladders, ropes, and chains, but soon turns into one of the most beautiful views I’ve ever seen. If you are fit enough and have nice weather, then go and hike Heimaklettur in the Westman islands!

heimaklettur hiking trail

Heimaklettur hiking trail map (click to enlarge)

We started our hike with a very steep ascent, which soon leads into two series of steep ladders and follows by ropes and chains to help you climb off the ladders. This part is definitely not for anyone afraid of heights and/or someone not physically fit and/or not to be done in stronger rain or wind. Otherwise, this hike was a truly unforgettable adventure. We brought our hiking poles with us but then regretted it because they only slowed us down when climbing all these ladders.

After finishing the steepest section, the part with the ladders, chains, and ropes ends and the trail continues as a typical Icelandic hiking trail of medium difficulty. After a few tens of minutes of ascending the marked trail leading via grass fields, you will soon reach one of the most spectacular views Westman islands have to offer. It took us less than 1 hour of quick hiking to reach the top.

heimaklettur ropes chains ladders

Heimaklettur hiking trail – ropes, chains and ladders

From the top of Heimaklettur, you will be rewarded with the best views of Westman islands available out there. The views stretch to all sides and you really do feel like a master of the universe when standing here and admiring the surroundings. It’s an amazing place for a picnic as well.

heimaklettur hiking trail Vestmannaeyjar

Heimaklettur hiking trail

Hike to Eldfell volcano

A hike to Eldfell is the easiest and most touristy hike on the Westman islands. Eldfell volcano also offers the best “price-to-value” views, because it only takes a few minutes to reach the top and the views are spectacular on a nice day. There are a few small car parks next to Eldfell – several in the northern direction and one main car park in the west. The main western car park is located next to the shortest hiking trail. The northern car parks are located a bit farther, but it’s probably only some 10 additional minutes of hiking.

westmann islands top things to do

Eldfell volcano hiking trail

Hiking Eldfell is a must if you are visiting Vestmannaeyjar. The view from the summit of the volcano is the most famous and photographed view of the Westman islands. And you’ll quickly understand why, once you get there. It’s totally worth seeing it, even though you most probably won’t be alone there. We took a western trail to Eldfell from the western car park and it took us around 10 to 15 minutes to get to the top. A very easy walk for virtually anyone. We met several guys with either jeans or shorts or sandals along the way.

eldfell hike map

Eldfell volcano hiking map (click to enlarge)

The peak of Eldfell offers magnificent photo opportunities in all directions. Even if you share this hike with other tourists, you are almost guaranteed to take a picture without them, there are more than enough spots for that. Once again – judge for yourself from some of our pictures taken by our phones.

Hike to Herjólfsdalur

Right next to the popular Elephant rock there lies a hidden and not much-known hike called Herjólfsdalur. It starts from the side of the golf course and leads steeply up the nearby hills. We haven’t done the hike to Herjólfsdalur ourselves, because we rather opted for hiking the nearby Heimaklettur. However, given the altitude of Herjólfsdalur hills, great views will be guaranteed once you get to the top on a nice day. See also the map of a hike to Herjólfsdalur below:

herjolfsdalur hiking trail

Herjolfsdalur hiking trail, sometimes called also Dalfjall hike (click to enlarge)

Hike to Stórhöfði

storhofdi hiking trail westman islands

Stórhöfði hiking trail

Stórhöfði is the southernmost area of Westman islands, visited primarily due to the presence of puffins. Except for puffins, there are also easy hiking trails at Stórhöfði offering sea views and views of the neighboring smaller islands with cute and lonely houses. Stórhöfði hikes lead via grass fields and are fairly easy. Views are less spectacular compared to Eldfell or Heimaklettur, though, simply because there’s no ascent anywhere.

Stórhöfði hiking trail

Stórhöfði hiking trails map (click to enlarge)

Puffins of Westman islands

Many visitors come to Westman islands because there’s one of the largest puffin colonies in Europe residing in Westman islands. Puffins are present in Westman islands usually from May until August/September.

There are two main puffin lookouts in Vestmannaeyjar. The first one is located in Stórhöfði. There’s a little car park right in front of it and the wooden shelter has been built there as an observatory. The second series of viewpoints is along the western coast of Heimaey all the way from Stórhöfði to Elephant rock, on the coast.

westman islands puffins storhofdi

Westman islands puffins at Stórhöfði

Elephant rock

Halldórsskora in Icelandic, or Elephant rock in English, is a popular photo spot on the westernmost part of Westman islands. As the name suggests, Elephant rock is an interestingly shaped rock in a way that resembles a head of an elephant. You can observe elephant rock either from the west coast or arrive close to it by a walking path leading via a golf course. Please take care and don’t get hit by a golf ball. This is surprisingly a pretty popular golf course.

elephant rock Vestmannaeyjar

Elephant rock as seen from the car

Black beach Vikin

Only a few hundred meters north of Stórhöfði, there’s a cute little black sand beach. There’s also a picnic table and Vikin black beach makes it a nice little spot for a short pause. Not overwhelming, though.

black sand beach vikin westman islands

Black sand beach Vikin

Urðaviti Lighthouse

Another place worth visiting for someone who would like to tick off visiting all the sightseeing spots in Westman islands. We didn’t spend much time visiting Urðaviti lighthouse, though. I think there are many more interesting lighthouses all over Iceland.

Eldheimar museum

For those interested in museums or simply if the weather worsens, there’s a most popular museum of Westman islands called Eldheimar. Not our cup of tea, though. Here is the website of the museum.

Beluga whale sanctuary

The Sea Life Trust Beluga Whale Sanctuary is a famous aquarium located on Vestmannaeyjar. Once again, it makes for a nice stop during bad weather, when visiting for more days, or with children. We wouldn’t come here specifically to see the aquarium, though. There are more interesting aquariums around the world than the Beluga whale sanctuary. Here is the website of the Beluga whale sanctuary.

sudurey island westman islands

Suðurey island, one of the small Westman islands

Smaller islands of Vestmannaeyjar

Heimaey is not the only island of Westman, despite being the biggest and the most versatile. There are several smaller islands nearby and many of them are actually settled! You will generally find just one lonely house located in the flattest area of these islands. And yes, it’s possible to get to these houses! But only by boat (or helicopter). One of these tiny Westman islands actually even offers accommodation, with somewhat scary reviews. If you wonder how people get up to these houses when getting off their boat, the answer is there are usually either some hidden stairs or a path leading to these houses.

Westman islands summer festival

There’s a huge festival taking place every summer on the Westman islands. It’s called Þjóðhátíð and of course, you can visit it too. You can find all the necessary info about the festival here.

Just bear in mind, cars are banned from the festival. Secondly, we highly recommend not coming for hiking or any peaceful sightseeing during the festival. Heimaey is just totally full at that time. This is one of the biggest Icelandic festivals, often with tens of thousands of visitors.

westman islands summer festival

Westman islands summer festival, source: https://www.dalurinn.is/en

Guided tours to Westman islands

There are several guided group tours that will take you to Westman islands from Reykjavik, operated by several tour providers. And then, we can take you on our Epic Private Tour of the Westman Islands! Fully tailored to you, no other tourists and any departure point! So your options are:

There are two main advantages of taking a guided tour to Westman islands. Firstly, as with any other tour, you simply don’t have to take care of anything. The guide will take care of it. Secondly, you don’t have to rent a car, the guide will pick you up from your hotel in Reykjavik.

Best guided tours on Westman islands

So, you’re already on Heimaey, and you don’t only want to explore the island on your own? Well, there are plenty of great tour choices. We picked a few of our favorites below.

puffin boat tour westman islands

Combo hiking + puffin watching boat tour

Seeing islands from the boat is definitely an adventure. A Westman Islands boat tour will also give you an entirely different perspective of the islands. Some spots are definitely nicer for a photo shoot from the perspective of a boat. Some are even accessible exclusively by boat. These are the three boat tours we think are the best:

Coming without a car and want to see most of Heimaey in 1 day? Our ultimately favorite tour for those without a car on Westman islands is a 2-hour bus tour of the main Heimaey island.

What about an ATV volcano tour on the Westman islands? Our favorite is this Vestmannaeyjar ATV tour.

Don’t have enough time for a guided tour? No worries, in our opinion, you will not miss out much by not taking a boat tour. Instead, when going on your own, you will gain a lot of flexibility and you may have all the places for yourself, not sharing them with your tour group. But that’s just us, someone else may prefer the comfort of a tour.

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List of all Hot Springs

List of all Hot Springs

Enjoy our unique and detailed list of all Icelandic hot springs! Currently 59 hotpots. If you think some info should be updated, feel free to contact us! Also, please, if you know of any hot springs not listed here, let us know and we will give you all the credit for that one! 🙂

We’ve spent months exploring all the different hot springs in Iceland and have visited almost all of them. Some of them are right next to the ring road, while some are almost impossible to find. Please remember, these are all very delicate and sensitive areas where you should never leave any trace or litter!

Looking for more amazing hidden spots? Check out our Map of 2000+ Best Places in Iceland.

Below we list all the wild hot springs, man-made hot springs, hot pools, and mountain hot tubes. We only list all the hot springs you are allowed to bathe in unless otherwise stated. We exclude hot caves like Stóragjá because it’s forbidden to bathe there. We also exclude classical public pools. The borderline is sometimes pretty thin in Iceland, so it’s impossible to create a perfect classification 🙂 Below is our map of hot pots in Iceland:

Map of all hot springs in Iceland


All the GPS points on this map are under strict copyright and are being tracked for an illegal use. You can’t copy any content without our consent.

Yes, there is Laugafell, there is Laugarfell, and there is also Laugavallalaug! All of these are different hotpots at different locations, each one differently amazing! And that is not all. There are actually two different hot springs with the same name – Krosslaug, located completely elsewhere! And then that’s also Krosnesslaug to make it easier to remember. That being said, hopefully, this list will help you to find your favorite one.

Askja hot spring

swimming in askja crater

Me swimming in 25°C sulphuric water of Víti crater in Askja

Askja definitely isn’t a typical hot spring. It’s a big warm crater lake. It’s often known as Askja caldera. The road leading to Askja is long and challenging but really worth it. We wrote an entire guide about how to visit Askja.

Askja hot spring type

Askja warm lake is a completely natural and wild crater where warm sulfur water created this unique “blue hot spring lake”. There are no changing rooms at all, you are in central highlands here. Bathing is free of charge and requires a hike down the crater, which can be challenging. Water is not especially hot, actually much colder compared to typical hot springs, but still warm, with around 28°C / 82°F.

How to get to Askja hot spring

We wrote a detailed guide on getting to Askja. Roads to Askja are open only during full summer (July and August) and require at least a medium-sized 4wd car. The bigger, the better. “Can we do it in a Suzuki Jimny?”, yes you can try and you may succeed, but you may also not. Jimny is considered to be a small-sized SUV, which, when driven in the right way and in good weather may be enough. It may also not be enough if the opposite is the case.

In short, You can either come from the north via F88 or from the east by F905. You will then connect to F910 and lastly to F894. After parking your car, you will still have to hike/walk for another 30 minutes one way. If you don’t feel like driving to Askja, you can take an epic Askja tour (10% discount code: EPICICELAND)!

Not sure what type of car to choose? Feel free to read how to choose a proper car or how to pick the best Icelandic car rental insurance. We also collaborate with Icelandic car rental companies to give you a discount and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Video of Askja hot spring

Tips about Askja hot spring

Pick a day with good weather, or take a guided tour (10% discount code: EPICICELAND). A drive in rain and fog will usually bring you no joy and no views just stress. If you decide to drive to Askja, read carefully both our Askja guide and Askja F-roads descriptions. Last but not least, please choose a proper car, so that you don’t have to call 112 for rescue.

Once you reach Askja, to get down to the warm lake, you need to take a short but steep descent. In bad weather, this may get dangerous. We recommend taking the descent to Askja only in good weather. Better also use hiking poles for stability. Moreover, it’s not allowed to bathe in all parts of the lake. There are signs that you cannot cross, please watch out for them or you may get yourself injured!

To sum up, bathing in Askja is more challenging and more adventurous compared to most of the other hot springs out there. Adjust your expectations and prepare accordingly 🙂

Biskupslaug – Reykir

Blue Lagoon

blue lagoon iceland

The famous Blue lagoon by Epic Iceland archives

Blue Lagoon is an iconic hot lagoon with blue water between Keflavik Airport and Reykjavik. If you haven’t been there already, you simply have to. At least once in your life.

We picked for you the cheapest, reliable Tickets & Transfers to Blue Lagoon:

All options above have free cancellation/rescheduling up to 24 hours before departure.

Brúarpotturinn

bruarpotturinn hot spring

Brúarpotturinn hot spring. Image courtesy to: www.icelandthebeautiful.com

Djúpavogskörin

Djúpavogskörin hot spring

Djúpavogskörin hot spring, Djúpivogur

Closed as at April 2023. Should be repaired and reopened in the following weeks/months.

Djúpavogskörin hot spring, is virtually a hot bathing tank. It’s located right on the ring road next to Djúpivogur, as the name suggests. Yet, Djúpavogskörin is still nicely hidden away from the main road and you have to keep searching for it for a few minutes.

Djúpavogskörin hot spring type

Djúpavogskörin hot spring is basically a man made stone block with a really hot water flowing into it. When we visited Djúpavogskörin in summer, we were unable to bathe there, because the water was simply too hot, definitely more than 43°C (109°F). In the winter, though, the temperature seemed to be considerably lower and just right for soaking up 🙂 Based on this finding, we better recommend a winter visit.

How to get to Djúpavogskörin

You don’t need any special car to get to Djúpavogskörin, any car can do that. The only tricky part is a bit cumbersome parking. The hot spring is located right next to the ring road, where cars drive around 90km/h, so you need to slow down, find the right detour and don’t block other cars. The car park is just a worn-out grass field that can easily get icy or muddy.

Not sure what type of car to choose? Feel free to read how to choose a proper car or how to pick the best Icelandic car rental insurance. We also collaborate with Icelandic car rental companies to give you a discount and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Once you leave your car at this unmaintained parking area, you need to walk for around 5 minutes via an unmarked path to find the Djúpavogskörin hot spring. There’s a little hill right next to the parking area and the hot spring is hidden right below this hill. The easiest way is to follow the prior footsteps of someone, but even without it, you should still be able to find the hot spring, because it’s really close by.

Video of Djúpavogskörin

Tips for Djúpavogskörin hot spring

Hot spring is free of charge, there was no donation box at the time of our last visit. There are also no changing rooms, but there’s a clothes-hanger. The short path leading to the actual hot spring can be really muddy when it’s wet, so get ready for that with your footwear.

Drangsnes hot pots

drangsnes hot pots iceland

Drangsnes hot pots. Image courtesy to: www.love-iceland.at

Forrest Lagoon

New luxurious lagoon already open.

forrest lagoon iceland

Forrest lagoon iceland. Image courtesy to: www.forestlagoon.is

Foss

foss hot spring waterfall akureyri

The Foss. Hot spring waterfall next to Akureyri. Image courtesy to Instagram @libertadoo

Fosslaug

fosslaug hot spring iceland

Fosslaug hot spring

Fosslaug hot spring is a beautiful stop when driving near Varmahlíð, definitely worth a little detour. There’s also a waterfall – Reykjafoss – and the whole place is magical especially during the sunset.

Fosslaug hot spring type

Bathing in Fosslaug is free of charge. We couldn’t find any money box, as is the case with many other Icelandic hot pots. There are no changing rooms, so just don’t be shy 🙂 Hot spring can accommodate up to 10 visitors, however comfortably maybe only up to 5. Fosslaug is a natural hot spring (man maintained) so naturally, the water isn’t entirely clear, but we think it belongs to the better ones when compared to other Icelandic hot springs. Water in Fosslaug is pleasantly hot with a temperature of around 38°C / 100°F.

How to get to Fosslaug

In summer, you can reach Fosslaug with any 2wd car. In winter a 4wd car would be better. Finding Fosslaug is part of the adventure. Although Google maps do show its location, it’s not that straightforward to find it anyway. We firstly turned right a few tens of meters earlier and ended up parking our car at the wrong spot, which we however didn’t realize at that time. After a few minutes of walking around, we eventually reached a dead-end and came back to our car.

Read about how we chose our car. Or just get free discounts for your Icelandic car rental.We realized we should have taken the next turn right. This turn will take you to the small, but pretty well visible car park. There you may leave your car (probably along with several other visitors, because Fosslaug is pretty popular and easily accessible). After parking your car at Fosslaug car park, it takes about 10-15 minutes of walking through the easy trail to reach the actual hot spring. As far as I remember, there are 1 or 2 gates which you have to open and then also close after you pass.

Video of Fosslaug

Tips about Fosslaug

On your way to Fosslaug, you will also pass the beautiful Reykjafoss. One of the smaller Icelandic waterfalls, Reykjafoss, is especially picturesque during sunrise and sunset, which we were lucky enough to experience.

What we liked the most about Fosslaug is that it overlooks a river and if you are lucky, you may observe a beautiful sunset over the river! Despite not being remote and thus possibly a bit touristy, Fosslaug is definitely one of our favorite hot springs.

Galtahryggjarlaug

galtahryggjarlaug hot spring

Galtahryggjarlaug hot spring. Image courtesy to: www.icelandthebeautiful.com

Geosea geothermal sea baths

husavik geosea geothermal baths

Husavik Geosea geothermal baths

Geosea baths are one of our favorite hot springs in Iceland! They offer one-of-a-kind scenery to admire and are very tranquil and remote.

Geosea hot spring type

Geosea baths are modern, man-made baths with all the facilities you may possibly need. Ample changing rooms, restaurant, hot spring bar, and many more!

There are two big pools. The bigger one is hotter, and the smaller one is less hot but still warm.

Our readers can use a 5% discount code: EPICICELAND for Geosea Geothermal Sea Baths on online tickets.

How to get to Geosea

Geosea geothermal sea baths are located at the northwesternmost part of Húsavík. They are easy to get to all year round, with paved and well-maintained roads all around.

Tips about Geosea

Geosea is great to visit in basically any kind of weather. Soaking in the hot spring is especially pleasant when it’s cold or rainy out there, so it’s a great activity for bad weather days!

It’s often quite windy near the sea front, so switching the pools can feel chilly for a moment 🙂

We recommend coming on a day with no thick fog, to fully enjoy the awesome views!

Geothermal Goldfish Pond

Gjörvidalslaug

May be open, may be locked. It’s recommended to ask locals for permission.

gjorvidalslaug hot spring

Gjörvidalslaug hot spring. Image courtesy to: Harpa Hreinsdóttir

Grafarlaug

grafarlaug hot spring

Grafarlaug hot spring. Image courtesy to: www.icelandthebeautiful.com

Grettirs pool – Grettislaug

grettislaug hot spring

Grettislaug hot spring. Image courtesy to: www.icelandthebeautiful.com

Guðlaug baths

gudlaug baths

Guðlaug Baths. Image courtesy to: www.facebook.com/Gudlaug.NaturalPool/

Guðrúnarlaug

gudrunarlaug hot spring shelter

Shelter for changing clothes and Gudrunarlaug hot spring

Guðrúnarlaug is one of the most picturesque hot springs in Iceland. It’s very well accessible.

Gudrunarlaug hot spring type

Guðrúnarlaug hot spring is man-made and man-maintained. It also has a cute little “cottage” changing room. Bathing was free of charge, we didn’t notice any donation box, but one may have been added in the meantime. The water was around 38°C / 100°F hot at the time of our visit, i.e. very pleasantly hot.

How to get to Gudrunarlaug

In summer, Guðrúnarlaug is easily accessible by any 2wd car. Read about how we chose our car. Or just get free discounts for your Icelandic car rental.

Video of Guðrúnarlaug

Tips about Guðrúnarlaug

Guðrúnarlaug is definitely a bit more touristy compared to, for example, Lýsuhólslaug. The reason for that is its proximity to ring road and to Westfjords, i.e., it’s quite easily accessible. The same is true when it comes to access to the actual hot tube – it’s a 2-minute walk from the car park, which sits right next to it. Google Maps are also quite precise about the location of Gudrunarlaug, so feel free to orientate according to them.

Guðrúnarlaug is located next to the small rural campsite (we didn’t see anyone camping at the time of our visit, during Covid-19 times) and something which looked like a school.

Gvendarlaug

gvendarlaug hot spring

Gvendarlaug hot spring. Image courtesy to: www.laugarholl.is

Hauganes hot pots

hauganes hot springs

Hauganes hot pots

What’s probably best about Hauganes hot springs is their location. They are situated just few meters from the actual fjord. This guarantees you an amazing view over the fjord while enjoying pleasantly hot water.

Hauganes hot spring type

Hauganes hot springs consist of 4 pools. The first pool (and the most legendary one) is shaped like a boat and definitely is pretty cool to bath in. In summer, the “boat-pool”, however, has the coldest water out of all pools (around 30°C), so it’s more a “warm spring” rather than “hot spring”. The other 3 pools (not that cool looking) have higher temperature though (35°C+). To us (and to our local Icelandic co-visitors) it seemed like the hottest pool was the rightmost one, that’s why we spent almost all our time there.

In winter, temperatures of the pools changed, however. The boat-shaped one felt just right with about 35°C, while the other two hot tubes were unbearably hot with more than 40°C.

There’s also a changing room, so you don’t have to do it outside in the cold as is the case with many wild hot springs. Price for Hauganes hot springs is 1000kr/person (ca. 7Eur/8USD). When the owner is present, you can pay it directly to him. If he’s not present, and you have cash, there’s a cash box right next to the pools. And thirdly, if you don’t have cash, you can pay by card at the nearby restaurant Baccalá.

How to get to Hauganes hot pots

Hauganes hot pot is easy to find (e.g. on Google maps, surprisingly in Hauganes). Hauganes hot springs are easily accessible by any 2wd car. Read about how we chose our car. Or just get free discounts for your Icelandic car rental.

Video of Hauganes hot pots

Tips for Hauganes hot pots

Hauganes hot springs are located just next to the little campsite, so there’s a high chance, you won’t be alone in here, given the hot pots are not that remote, nor hard to access. At the time of our visit, there were 2 groups of visitors, plus us and the place didn’t feel crowded at all. A capacity of one pool is around 8 people, therefore it’s not that easy for hot pools to become crowded. For those interested – you may even rotate between hot springs and sea, which lies right next to hot springs. Just don’t forget to shower yourself before each hot spring dive (the sea is dirty and salty).

Hellulaug

hellulaug hot spring

Hellulaug hot spring

Hellulaug is a nice hot spring situated in one of the fjords in the southern part of Westfjords.

Hellulaug hot spring type

Hellulaug hot spring is a man-made and (not that much) man-maintained rocky hot spring. Hot spring is free to use, I don’t remember a donation box next to it, but there may have been one. There’s no shelter, nor changing room, you have to change your clothes either in a car or just next to the hot spring. The water is pleasantly hot, with some 37°C / 99°F.

How to get to Hellulaug

In summer, Hellulaug is accessible by any 2wd car. Read about how we chose our car. Or just get free discounts for your Icelandic car rental.

The distance from the nearest car park to the hot spring is around 2 minutes of walking. You can get to Hellulaug from the main road 60. Just be sure to finally turn on Hellulaugavegur and end up here, because there’s one other (wrong) spot on Google maps. You will leave your car at a small, gravel parking lot. From there you have to descent about 2 minutes to reach the pool itself.

Video of Hellulaug

Tips about Hellulaug

Hellulaug is situated right in the heart of the fjord. If you are into “sauna style” bathing, you may even alternate between bathing in the hot spring and bathing in the ice-cold sea. Water in the hot spring is very pleasant though, having some 37°C (according to my professional, read as „guessed“, assessment).

If it rains, since there’s no shelter, some of your things will probably get wet, unless you cover them with something. We didn’t mind, though, because Hellulaug was probably the last stop of our trip.

Heydalur

heydalur hot spring

Heydalur hot spring. Image courtesy to: http://kitiniceland.blogspot.com/

Hjalteyri Hot Tub

Run by Strýtan dive centre, ask for permission / pay for access.

Hoffel hot tubes

hoffel hot pots

Hoffel hot tubes. Image courtesy to: www.icelandthebeautiful.com

Hörgshlíðarlaug

Horgshlidarlaug hot spring

Hörgshliðarlaug hot spring in the heart of fjord

Hörgshliðarlaug is a nice remote hot spring hidden in one of the fjords in the northern part of Westfjords. This is one of our favorite hot springs in Iceland.

Horgshlidarlaug hot spring type

Hörgshliðarlaug hot spring is a man-made and man-maintained seaweed hot spring. Hot spring is free to use, I don’t remember a donation box next to it, but there may have been one. There’s an old shelter next to the hot spring, which serves as a changing room. The water is pleasantly hot, with some 37°C / 99°F.

How to get to Horgshlidarlaug

In summer, Hörgshliðarlaug is accessible by any 2wd car. Read about how we chose our car. Or just get free discounts for your Icelandic car rental.

Not only tough to pronounce, but also tough to find, that’s Horgshlidarlaug. At the time of our visit, road 633 was closed, so we had to use the northern part of road 61 and make a detour south (left) right before crossing the Mjóifjörður fjord. The distance from the nearest car park (next to the road) to the hot spring is around 2 minutes of walking.

Video of Hörgshlíðarlaug

Tips about Hörgshlíðarlaug

Horgshlidarlaug is a dirty, old, full of seaweed hot spring with a true Icelandic atmosphere. It lies right in the heart of the fjord, so you will be able to watch the fjord while soaking in the hot pot. If you are lucky enough, there may even be seals around (we haven’t seen any though).

If you are into “sauna style” bathing, you may even alternate between bathing in the hot spring and bathing in the ice-cold sea. Water in the hot spring is very pleasant though, having some 37°C (according to my professional, read as „guessed“, assessment).

Hrunalaug

hruni hot spring

Tranquil scenery of Hruni hot spring

Hrunalaug is one of the most picturesque Icelandic hot springs. Although it’s nowadays already really touristy, it definitely belongs to the top Icelandic hot springs.

Hrunalaug hot spring type

Hrunalaug hot spring is man-made and man-maintained. There’s an authentic wooden shelter (similar to the one next to Guðrúnarlaug) serving as a changing room, right next to the pool. Hrunalaug hot spring has changed into a paid hot spring with opening hours as of 2024. The water was around 38°C / 100°F hot at the time of our visit, i.e. very pleasantly hot.

How to get to Hrunalaug

Hrunalaug (or Hruni) is easily accessible by any 2wd car. Read about how we chose our car. Or just get free discounts for your Icelandic car rental.

Use Google maps. They were quite precise about the location. There’s actually a car park near the hot spring. From the “car park” it’s about 3 minutes of walk. You shouldn’t get lost, as far as I can remember there’s even a sign pointing towards hot spring.

Video of Hrunalaug

Tips about Hrunalaug

There are actually several pools, some of them smaller, some of them bigger. All pools do contain heated water, but each one has a different temperature. The hottest one is also the smallest and is the one right next to the shelter. It’s ideal for 2 people, and if you are OK with some squeezing even for 4.

I can confidently nominate Hruni hot spring for winning the award of the most authentic Icelandic hot spring. It is, without doubt, one of the best hot springs we’ve ever been to. Thanks to many aspects. Firstly, it’s a place secluded from anything else with no buildings or roads around. Secondly, the landscape surrounding it is truly peaceful and picturesque. Thirdly, the hot pot itself looks like to be from some kind of fairy-tale. And, importantly, the water (in the main one) is pleasantly hot with some 38°C according to my professional (read amateur) assessment.

The main downside of Hrunalaug is that it’s getting really crowded. It’s easily accessible and beautiful at the same time. I recommend either coming here off-season or during some weird times (like really soon in the morning, or during the night). Also Hrunalaug now has opening hours and an entrance fee. More info on Hrunalaug entrances here.

Hvammsvík hot springs

hvammsvik hot springs iceland

Hvammsvík hot springs SPA. Image courtesy to: https://hvammsvik.com/

Hvammsvík hot spring type

Hvammsvík is a man-made and well maintained, unique hot spring located in the picturesque Hvalfjörður fjord. There are currently eight different pools with various temperatures. There’s also a restaurant and a brand new changing room.

Our readers can use a 5% discount code: EPICICELAND5 for Hvammsvík on Classic and Comfort tickets.

Hvammsvík has recently been gaining a lot of popularity, because it’s one of the most beautiful hot springs in Iceland that is still not crowded! It’s surrounded by ocean, mountains and black sand beaches that create a one-of-its-kind scene you’re just tempted to visit again and again.

How to get to Hvammsvík

It’s not a coincidence Hvammsvík is getting so popular. One of the main reasons is, it’s located just a 45-minute drive north of Reykjavik, making it a great day trip from Reykjavik.

The easiest way to reach Hvammsvík is to drive there. Another alternative is to take a day tour from Reykjavik (5% discount code: EPICICELAND), which includes the visit of Hvammsvík.

Tips about Hvammsvík hot spring

Did you know that water levels of some of the pools and their temperatures vary with tide? Well, they do! Hvammsvík lies right next to the Atlantic ocean, that’s why. This actually makes every visit to Hvamssvík unique!

The admission includes access to all hot springs, a steam room, beaches, a jump into the ocean (if you dare), as well as free use of their paddle boards.

Húsafell canyon baths

This is a paid hot spring on a private property. You have to buy the package to visit it.

Húsafell Canyon Baths

Húsafell Canyon Baths. Image courtesy to: www.husafell.com

Hveravellir hot spring

Hveravellir hot spring

The only Hveravellir hot spring for bathing. Image: courtesy of hiticeland.com

Hveravellir is a hot spring area in the middle of F35 road with one nice free hot spring available for bathing. We wrote a detailed guide on visiting Hveravellir hot springs.

Hveravellir hot spring type

Hveravellir hot spring is man-made and man-maintained. It has an uncovered exterior changing space. Bathing is free of charge, we didn’t notice any donation box, but one may have been added in the meantime. The water is pleasantly hot, with some 38°C / 100°F.

How to get to Hveravellir

You need a 4wd car to access the Hveravellir area. Road 35 leading there (former F35), a.k.a. Kjölur or Kjalvegur is open for tourists without super jeeps only from June to September.

In summer, the road F35 (Kjalvegur) is not hard to drive on, though. You may rent basically any 4wd car to drive it. Read about how we chose our car. Or just get free discounts for your Icelandic car rental.

Once you leave F35 towards Hveravellir, it’s just a short, easy drive and you will soon find a parking lot in front of a small restaurant. Almost next to the parking lot lies a nice, public, free hot spring. The distance from the nearest car park to the hot spring is around 5 minutes of walking.

Video of Hveravellir

Tips about Hveravellir

Since it is so close to the car park, there’s a high chance someone will be inside most of the time. Nevertheless, the hot spring is big enough and the water is pleasantly hot, with some 38°C (according to my professional assessment). On the other hand, the air temperature felt really cold, something like 7-8°C even in the middle of August. So again – be prepared for that – you are in the middle of Iceland, in highlands.

I guess my expectations for Hveravellir were too big (read further to find out why). When planning our trip, I had read that there are “several hot springs in the Hveravellir area”. Moreover, seeing pictures like this had instantly made me a Hveravellir enthusiast. Well, the reality was a bit different. We were hiking for 1 hour around the entire area, but we haven’t found any hot springs, other than the main one near the parking lot.

We finally also asked the local at the restaurant who just confirmed our realization by saying: “you can bath only in this hot spring, next to the car park. There may be also some other hot springs further away, but you shouldn’t bathe there”.

Kerlingarfjöll hot spring

kerlingarfjöll hot spring iceland

Bathing alone at Kerlingarfjöll hot spring

There’s only one hot spring in Kerlingarfjoll available for bathing. And it is well hidden from the mainstream trails of the Hveradalir geothermal area!

The entire scenery around the hot spring looks entirely like from another planet. This is one of our favorite hot springs in Iceland.

Kerlingarfjöll hot spring type

The Kerlingarfjoll hot spring is a man-maintained but originally wild hot spring. It has man-made walls and a wooden platform for changing clothes and entering the pool.

There are actually two pools next to each other, one warmer and the other less warm.

How to get to Kerlingarfjöll hot spring

Hike to Kerlingarfjoll hot spring is easy and totally worth the experience. Just be sure to bring a towel and clothes to change, because the hike can easily take you 1.5 hours as a round-trip.

The hike starts only and only at the Highland Base (former Kerlingarfjoll Mountain resort). There’s no other trail. And it’s actually not trivial to find the beginning of the trail. There were no signs at the time of our visit, so we asked the visitors coming from the opposite direction, who pointed us toward the trail.

After about 10 minutes of walking from and through Kerlingarfjoll mountain resorts, we’ve finally reached a little crossroad with a signpost pointing to a trail to the Kerlingarfjoll hot spring. The sign says it’s just 1km to the hot spring, but that’s not true. It’s actually double that – 2km. It’s not long, but it’s also not a 5-minute walk in slippers 😉

Tips for Kerlingarfjöll hot spring

When we first visited Kerlingarfjoll, and the place was called “Kerlingarfjoll hot spring area” or “Hveradalir hot spring area”, we had thought there will be many hot springs to bathe in. We were wrong. Yes, there are many hot springs, but you can’t bathe in any of them! Except one. The vast majority of these hot springs are “just” bubbling mud holes that are either too small, or too hot (or both) to bathe in.

Water in the warmer of the two pools had temperature of around 37°C in July, which was more than just pleasant after a full day of hiking. The water was also quite clear, at least if compared to other wild hot springs. Don’t expect SPA-like clean, though, this is wild and remote Iceland in its fullness.

Krauma Natural Geothermal Baths

krauma hot springs

Krauma hot baths. Image courtesy to: www.krauma.is. 10% discount code for Krauma: EPICICELAND

Krauma hot spring type

Long story short, Krauma is a nicely-maintained modern hot spring / hot spa with all the facilities you could probably need – showers, restaurant, café, changing rooms – all being new and with a glamorous touch. There are several pools of various (hot) temperatures and also an ice-cold “dip pool”. It is located in the exterior and has a view over nearby lands, which makes a visit even more pleasurable!

Our readers can use a 10% discount code: EPICICELAND for Krauma Hot Springs when booking online in advance.

How to get to Krauma baths

A normal road leads to Krauma, you can make it with any car. Read about how we chose our car. Or just get free discounts for your Icelandic car rental.

Video of Krauma baths

Tips for Krauma baths

If you are into more glamorous hot springs with all of the facilities, services, and comfort and you don’t mind paying for that, you’re gonna be happy! As was my wife 🙂

Me, personally, I prefer wilder experiences with remote (and uncomfortable) hot springs. But hey – Iceland has enough of both of these for everyone!

Krosslaug hot pot

krosslaug hot pot

Krosslaug hot pot

Krosslaug hot pot type

Krosslaug is a natural hot spring (man maintained). Bathing in Krosslaug is free of charge. We couldn’t find any money box, as is the case with many other Icelandic hot pots. There are no changing rooms, so just don’t be shy 🙂

Krosslaug is pretty little, suitable comfortably maybe for 2 people, and less comfortably for 4. The temperature is pleasant, though, with around 38°C according to my (non) professional estimate. The water is not entirely clean with some plants floating in it, though much clearer compared to some not well-maintained algae pools like Seljavallalaug.

How to get to Krosslaug hot pot

Krosslaug is located right next to road 52. You can leave your car at the little car park and from there it’s just a 2-minute walk. Read about how we chose our car. Or just get free discounts for your Icelandic car rental.

Video of Krosslaug hot pot

Tips for Krosslaug hot pot

Beware, there’s also another hot spring called Krosslaug 🙂 This one is located in Westfjords, though. See below.

Krosslaug hot spring Westfjords

krosslaug hot spring westfjords

Krosslaug hot spring in Westfjords. Image courtesy to: www.icelandthebeautiful.com

Krossneslaug

krossneslaug

Krossneslaug

Krossneslaug is a really unique, one-of-its-kind hot pool literally at the end of the world (or at least all Icelandic roads).

Krossneslaug hot spring type

Krossneslaug is a man-made and man-maintained hot pool. There’s an access fee of around 8 USD. For that price, you can use the whole infrastructure around – changing rooms, showers, toilets, etc. There is 1 big “infinity” pool with a view over the fjord and 1 small hot tube as a bonus. The bigger, rectangular pool has a water temperature of around 34°C / 93°F and a smaller, more modern hot tub with a temperature of around 38°C / 100°F.

How to get to Krossneslaug

Although officially any 2wd car is allowed in here, I do recommend a 4wd car and some guts to reach Krossneslaug. Road 643 heading towards Krossneslaug could easily be classified as an Icelandic F-road. It doesn’t contain any river crossings but it contains almost everything else an F-road may contain. Potholes, gravel, narrow passages, steep parts, driving on the edge of the cliffs, …

Read about how we chose our car. Or just get free discounts for your Icelandic car rental.

Google Maps mark Krossneslaug quite precisely. They just don’t show that the “car park” (or better said the place next to the road where you may leave your car) is tens of meters above the pool. That means, you have to leave your car up, next to the road and you have to walk down the path to Krossneslaug itself. Only the owner of the pool has an access to reach the pool by car.

Video of Krossneslaug

Tips about Krossneslaug

Bathing in Krossneslaug is again a once-in-a-lifetime experience. It definitely belongs to the Top 5 of Icelandic hot springs. Once in the pool, you will again feel like being in some kind of fairy tale. Just you, a hot pool and a view of the endless sea. The smaller, hotter bathtub even has a windshield (I guess for cases of severe weather?).

Before our departure, I asked the owner whether it does make economic sense to maintain such a pool at the end of the world. He just smiled and replied that from June till 1st half of August usually hundreds of people come per day. So this hot spring may get a bit touristy in the full season.

Kualaug

Kvika Footbath

kvika footbath hot spring iceland

Kvika footbath hot spring. Image courtesy to: www.icelandthebeautiful.com

Landbrotalaug

landbrotalaug hot spring

Source of the Landbrotalaug hot spring resembles a mud hole.

Landbrotalaug is a wild hot spring located in the middle of nowhere in the eastern part of Snæfellsnes. The main hot spring is a tiny geothermal pool, accompanied by a larger but muddier one, that serves as a water source for both hot springs. 

Landbrotalaug hot spring had been closed to the public for a longer time. However, it reopened again in 2024.

Landbrotalaug hot spring type

Lanbdrotalaug It’s a man-made hot pot, not much maintained. Water is typically very hot. There are no changing rooms, you’re all alone in the wilderness.

How to get to Lanbdrotalaug

Landbrotalaug is located on the easternmost end of the Snaefellsnes peninsula. The hot pot is well accessible by any car. The final access road may be slippery, icy, or full of snow in winter, so please take care not to get stuck. 

Once you get out of the car, it takes a few minutes of walk to find it.

Video of Landbrotalaug hot spring

Tips about Landbrotalaug hot spring

Firstly, there are two hot springs. The bigger and muddier one is located right next to the water supply pipe. The smaller one you’ve most likely seen in all these sexy pictures is located 100 meters to the right behind a wall. 

Secondly, this is a wild hot spring with no cabin, so if you prefer luxury lagoons or if you have sensitive skin or anything similar, this will most likely not be a place for you.

Thirdly, the main Landbrotalaug pool fits only two or three people max. If you’re in a hurry and there is a crowd, it may be best to skip it.

Fourthly, if you are going in the rain, there may be mud all around. Be ready for it, or don’t go.

Landmannalaugar hot spring

Landmannalaugar hot spring

Landmannalaugar hot spring. Picture courtesy of https://www.foodiebaker.com/day-4-iceland-travelogue/

Landmannalaugar hot spring (sometimes called Brennisteinsalda) is the only hot spring suitable for bathing in the main Landmannalaugar area. It is located right next to Landmannalaugar campsite.

Landmannalaugar hot spring type

Landmannalaugar hot spring is one of the few 100% real natural hot springs (without any human interference) we’ve seen in Iceland so it’s definitely worth trying. It’s basically a stream of some really hot water (>50°C / 122°F) flowing into the small river and you may bathe in this river. The water temperature gradually goes down the more you go away from the source. The hot spring is free to use. It has an uncovered exterior changing space.

How to get to Landmannalaugar hot spring

You need a proper 4wd car to reach Landmannalaugar and Brennisteinsalda hot spring. However, there’s a huge difference between whether you come from the northern side of F208 or the southern side. The distance from the nearest car park to the hot spring is around 5 minutes of walking.

Read more about these different routes in our F-road guide. Read also about how we chose our car, as this is essential for your Icelandic trip. Or just get free discounts for your Icelandic car rental.

Video of Landmannalaugar hot spring

Tips about Landmannalaugar hot spring

The river you firstly need to jump in actually isn’t so hot, maybe around some 26-30°C / 79-86°F which doesn’t feel so fantastic when it’s really cold outside. But the more you approach the actual hot stream, the warmer it gets. The warmest place is, of course, just near the place where the stream flows into the water. This is the place you want to aim for (but so will all your fellow co-campers). You will probably have to wait some time in a queue to get to that source. There’s also another smaller stream a few meters to the right, so these 2 streams flowing into the river are the hottest spots.

The river is also really shallow, only some 40-70cm deep, so you basically have to lie in it to be covered by water. Nevertheless, it’s definitely worth the experience and it’s a really cool thing to try as Brennisteinsalda hotpot is one of the very few “wild” hot springs not artificially modified by locals.

Laugafell

laugafell hot spring

Laugafell hot spring

Laugafell hot spring is an enjoyable, spacious and pretty remote hot spring located in the central highlands of Iceland. Laugafell lies right next to the road F752 – Skagafjarðarleið and is a part of the Laugafell mountain hut and campsite area.

Laugafell hot spring type

Laugafell hot spring is a man-made and man-maintained hot spring lake. The temperature in summer was pleasantly hot with about 38°C (100°F). There’s a huge changing room with toilets, as a part of the Laugafell campsite area. There’s also a wooden path leading to the hot spring, so Laugafell definitely belongs to one of the really well-maintained hot springs.

How to get to Laugafell

Laugafell hot spring is located in the central Icelandic highlands, so you definitely need at least a small 4×4 car to reach it. Then, it depends on what season and what road you choose, whether small 4×4 is enough or whether you would need a large 4×4.

Option 1 is to arrive from the north, first via F821 – Eyjafjarðarleið and then via F752 – Skagafjarðarleið. This is the easiest way to reach Laugafell. F821 is a beautiful road without any considerable river crossings, only some small streams. Some parts of F821 are pretty steep and bumpy, though, especially the final parts in the direction of highlands. F752 up to Laugafell doesn’t contain any major river crossings, I remember only smaller streams. If you go in summer and the roads are officially open, you should do fine also with smaller 4×4 cars like Jimney or Duster.

Not sure what type of car to choose? Feel free to read how to choose a proper car or how to pick the best Icelandic car rental insurance. We also collaborate with Icelandic car rental companies to give you a discount and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.

laugafell mountain hut iceland

Laugafell campsite and hot spring near the sunset

Option 2 is to arrive from the south, firstly via F26 – Sprengisandur, a.k.a. Sprengisandsleið and then via the aforementioned F752 – Skagafjarðarleið. Both these roads, if you come from the south, contain medium to big-sized rivers to be crossed. We definitely recommend at least a large 4×4 SUV, and ideally a super jeep to drive the roads safely. Under extremely good conditions it’s possible to drive the roads also in medium 4×4 cars, but I would not rely on that!

Option 3 then involves driving also the F881 – Dragaleið. To our knowledge, there’s no river crossing on F881. Then, it depends whether you connect to F881 from the northern F26 or southern F26. Southern F26, as described above, contains one medium to big-sized river called Hagakvislar, next to Nyidalur, that needs to be crossed. You need a large 4×4 for that and at least some river crossing experience.

Video of Laugafell

TBA soon.

Tips for Laugafell

Price for bathing was 500ISK per person at the time of our last visit. You have to pay for bathing to the warden located in one of the huts. The hot spring is huge enough to accommodate for 20+ people so do not worry about it being crowded.

Laugarfell

laugarfell hot spring

Laugarfell hot spring

A nice remote hot spring in the middle of nowhere, yet still easily accessible by any car in full summer, with a hotel next to it.

Laugarfell hot spring type

The hot spring is private and it’s a part of a Laugarfell hotel. If you want to use only the hot spring, price is 1500ISK (10Eur) per person. There are actually two hot pools – one with a water temperature of around 38°C and the other one with around 43°C, which is already VERY hot and not many people are able to stay there 🙂

How to get to Laugarfell

Laugarfell is easily accessible by any car via a fully paved road 910. Read about how we chose our car. Or just get free discounts for your Icelandic car rental.

Video of Laugarfell

Tips for Laugarfell

There are also several beautiful hikes available around the area, so there’s definitely stuff to do for an entire day, if not longer. Some beautiful waterfalls also lie nearby, such as Kirkjufoss, Stuðlafoss and Faxi waterfall.

Laugarvatn Fontana

laugarvatn fontana hot spring

Laugarvatn fontana hot spa. Image courtesy to: www.fontana.is

Laugavallalaug

laugavallalaug hot spring

Laugavallalaug hot waterfall spring

Laugavallalaug hot spring really positively surprised us and it definitely belongs to one of our favorite Icelandic hot springs, probably even to the Top 3 🙂 Maybe you’ve been to hot springs already, but have you ever been to a hot spring waterfall? Well, that’s exactly what Laugavallalaug is!

Laugavallalaug hot spring type

Yes, Laugavallalaug is a hot spring with your private hot waterfall! This can happen only in Iceland, right? Water in Laugavallalaug is pleasantly hot (my professional assessment would say around °37C to °39C). Water is also pretty clean, at least compared to other wild hot springs (several levels cleaner compared to e.g. Seljavallalaug).

How to get to Laugavallalaug

There are several options how to reach Laugavallalaug:

  1. If you want to avoid F-roads as much as possible, you can come from the Hallormsstaður direction – via road 910. Road 910 is very well maintained and fully paved road. It’s probably one of the best 3-digit roads I’ve driven in Iceland. 910 ends at Kárahnjúkar dam and then you have to drive a bumpy F910 for a few kilometers. No river crossing, though.
  2. If you want to see the Stuðlagil canyon along the way (which we highly recommend), then come via road 923 (semi-paved, easy-to-drive road). Google labels 923 as just “Jökuldalsvegur”. The correct names are here https://vegasja.vegagerdin.is/eng/. Afterwards, you will have to drive F910 in the southern direction (Google again has a wrong name – “Karahnjukar”). This part of F910 is very bumpy, but contains no river crossings (maybe some small streams that I don’t even remember).
  3. If you want to see Askja area first (as we did), the longest and the most difficult access road to Laugavallalaug leads also via long part of F910 coming from the crossroads with F88. The road is definitely doable in a medium-sized 4×4 in good weather and road conditions. There are one (or two) medium-sized river crossings.

Access to Laugavallalaug is thus is a bit cumbersome, but manageable. The last part of F910 close to Laugavallalaug is really bumpy, but doesn’t contain any river crossings. Still, it’s advantageous to have a good ground clearance of car for it. Coming from the north-east, you then have to turn right and drive the dirt track to Laugavallalaug for approximately 1.5km to arrive at the small car park.

Several visitors left their car just before the turn. The reason is, after taking this detour, the road turns into a steep, narrow and bumpy track, making it not that pleasant a drive. Nevertheless, we’ve seen even cars much smaller than ours (like Dacia Duster) making it to the car park as well, so it’s definitely doable. Just a lifespan of your car’s bumpers would probably be a bit shortened after this drive 🙂

Read about how we chose our car. Or just get free discounts for your Icelandic car rental.

Video of Laugavallalaug

Tips for Laugavallalaug

Laugavallalaug is also surrounded by picturesque, green hills and a few pretty hungry sheep. The place is quite hard to access, so we expected almost no visitors. We were surprised to arrive at the car park and park our car along 5 other cars. Nevertheless, these car owners were probably only chilling in their cars, because we met only one couple in the hot spring.

What we liked the most about Laugavallalaug was its remoteness, amazing surrounding countryside and, of course the waterfall experience! It was more than just worth the drive!

Lýsuhólslaug

lysuholslaug hot spring

Lýsuhólslaug hot spring

Lysuholslaug or Lýsulaugar is a nice hot pool “spa”, hidden in the southern part of the Snaefellsnes peninsula.

Lýsuhólslaug hot spring type

Lysuholslaug is a man-made and man-maintained hot pool. There’s an access fee of around 8 USD. For that price, you can use the whole infrastructure around – changing rooms, showers, toilets, etc. There are 2 small hot tubes and 1 bigger pool. All of them are the so-called “sea-weed baths”. That means, they look to be dirty, because of the sea-weeds everywhere. The ground and walls of the pool are also slippery, because of sea-weeds.

The big pool has water with a temperature of around 32°C / 90°F. Water in the small hot tubes is much hotter, around 36-38°C / 97-100°F  in the first of them and around 39-41°C / 102-106°F in the hottest one. It’s definitely not recommended to stay in the hottest one for too long.

How to get to Lýsuhólslaug

Lysuholslaug is easily accessible by any 2wd car. Read about how we chose our car. Or just get free discounts for your Icelandic car rental. The distance from the nearest car park to the hot spring is around 1 minute of walking.

Tips about Lýsuhólslaug

Bathing in Lysuholslaug is definitely a very pleasant activity when the weather sucks. We really enjoyed it, despite the place not being anywhere near as picturesque as Hrunalaug or some other “wilder” hot springs. So, it depends on your preference, weather (and who knows what else), whether it’s worth making a detour for you. For us it definitely was.

Marteinslaug

Marteinslaug hot spring

Marteinslaug hot spring. Image courtesy to: http://losangelesswimmin.com/

Mývatn nature baths

myvatn nature baths

Mývatn nature baths. Image courtesy to: www.myvatnnaturebaths.is

Nauteyrarlaug

nauteyrarlaug hot spring

Nauteyrarlaug hot spring. Image courtesy to: www.love-iceland.at

Nauthólsvík beach lagoon

nautholsvik beach iceland

Nauthólsvík beach lagoon

Pollurinn hot pool

pollurinn hot spring

Pollurinn hot pool. Image courtesy to: www.icelandthebeautiful.com

Reykjadalur hot river

reykjadalur hot river

Reykjadalur hot spring river. Image courtesy to: www.icelandthebeautiful.com

Reykjafjarðarlaug

Reykjafjarðarlaug hot pool

Reykjafjarðarlaug hot pool

Reykjafjardarlaug is a nice hot spring in the middle of nowhere, right next to the Road 63 in Westfjords.

Reykjafjardarlaug hot spring type

Reykjafjarðarlaug hot spring is man-made and man-maintained. It also has a changing room. Bathing is free of charge, we didn’t notice any donation box, but one may have been added in the meantime. The water was around 35°C / 95°F at the time of our visit, i.e. not that hot but still pleasant.

How to get to Reykjafjardarlaug

In summer, Reykjafjardarlaug hot spring is accessible by any 2wd car. Although road 63 leading there is zig-zag and secluded, it should be alright to reach with a bit of careful driving. Read about how we chose our car. Or just get free discounts for your Icelandic car rental. The distance from the nearest car park to the hot spring is around 5 minutes of walking.

Video of Reykjafjarðarlaug hot spring

Tips about Reykjafjarðarlaug

There are actually 2 places for bathing in here. The first one is the man-made artificial pool with regulated water temperature. The second one is the actual source of the hot water itself – a wild hot spring with varying temperatures (usually much hotter). This secret Reykjafjardarlaug hot spring lies nearby.

We made just a quick stop at the hot spring because we had already visited several of them at that time and headed elsewhere on that day. Reykjafjardarlaug is nevertheless nice and pleasant, just maybe not that exceptional compared to some other ones in Iceland. As someone had put it: “3 out of 5 Icelandic stars, i.e. 5 out of 5 anywhere else in the world”.

Reykjanes geothermal pool

reykjanes geothermal pool iceland

Reykjanes geothermal pool. Image courtesy to: http://reykjaneswestfjords.is/

Sæberg hot tubs

Saeberg hotpot

Sæberg hot tubes. Image courtesy to: www.icelandthebeautiful.com

Secret Lagoon

secret lagoon iceland

Secret lagoon. Image courtesy to: www.secretlagoon.is/

15% discount code for Secret Lagoon entrance: EPIC

Seljavallalaug

seljavallalaug hot spring

Seljavallalaug hot spring

Just a short hike from the ring road lies a popular, yet not very neat, hot pool, a.k.a. Seljavallalaug. You need to take around 30-minutes long hike to get there.

Seljavallalaug hot spring type

The pool is big, full of algae, slippery, and with water of a temperature of around 30°C+, which is not that much compared to several other 40°C+ Icelandic hot springs. It’s an old pool, not much maintained.

How to get to Seljavallalaug

Seljavallalaug is located on private land and to get there you need to walk. You can park your car also on the private land – there are 2 not very big car parks, which, however, weren’t completely full at the time of our visit. We parked the car at the one closer to the pool (but it really doesn’t make any difference, because they are both next to each other). Luckily for visitors, the landowners have not yet started to get money for the parking and visit of the pool. This may change in the future, though.

Read about how we chose our car. Or just get free discounts for your Icelandic car rental.

After parking your car it’s a 30 minutes (one way), non-demanding walk around a nice area. It’s not marked, but it also isn’t hard to follow because a) there’s no other route, b) you will probably meet several fellow tourists on the way there.

Tips about Seljavallalaug

There’s an old changing room at Seljavallalaug (actually 2 rooms, maybe supposed to be for men and women, but people mixed it anyway). As I said above – the pool is big, full of algae, slippery, and with water of a temperature of around 30°C+, which is not that much compared to several other 40°C+ Icelandic hot springs. Nevertheless, many other visitors seemed to enjoy the pool very much anyway. To sum it up, Seljavallalaug was still a nice experience, although we prefer other Icelandic hot springs and pools much more.

UPDATE from the local: “Seljavallalaug was cold when I visited in August 2022, no hot water coming out of the rock face into the pool anymore. Possibly the added tourism catering by the landowner has redirected the water for all those cabins.” Thank you Hákon Halldórsson for this info from 15.10.2022.

Video of Seljavallalaug

Skátalaug

Skátalaug hot spring iceland

Skátalaug hot spring. Image courtesy to: www.icelandthebeautiful.com

Skátalaug advice from the local

“Skátalaug by Kleifarvatn is empty now, water is flowing another route, away from it. No sign of this being a result of intervention.” Thank you Hákon Halldórsson for this info from 15.10.2022.

Sky Lagoon

sky lagoon iceland

Sky lagoon. Image courtesy to: www.skylagoon.com/

Sky Lagoon is a luxurious, modern hot lagoon in Reykjavik, famous due to its sea views and its “7-step ritual”.

We’ve collected the cheapest yet reliable tickets & transfers for Sky Lagoon below:

All options above have free cancellation/rescheduling up to 24 hours before departure.

Snorralaug

It’s forbidden to bath in Snorralaug. Photos only.

snorralaug hot spring iceland

Snorralaug hot spring. Image courtesy to: www.icelandthebeautiful.com

Strútslaug

strutslaug hot spring iceland

Strútslaug hot spring

Strútslaug is one of the most remote hot springs in entire Iceland. It’s located deep in the highlands, close to Maelifell volcano and Laugavegur trail. You have to firstly drive there pretty long and then hike for 1,5 hour one way, at best.

Strútslaug hot spring type

Strutslaug is a pretty big, totally wild natural hot spring that could easily welcome tens of visitors. I guess it’s never really full, given its total remoteness. It’s also pleasantly hot, with a water temperature of around 40°C according to my (non) professional estimate. It’s a very surreal and pleasant bathing experience in the middle of the total nowhere. One of my favorite Icelandic hot springs.

How to get to Strútslaug

Getting to Strútslaug is quite a challenge and you better use a super jeep for that or a guided tour. Under a good weather and road conditions, it’s possible to drive to the start of the hiking trail also by a large 4×4 SUV, like Land Cruiser. But as I mentioned, I better recommend a true jeep.

Strútslaug is located a 1,5 hour long hike from the end of Strútur track. Remember, Strútur track is not even an F-road, it’s even rougher, it’s just a dirt track. Now to get to the Strútur track, you have to arrive there by F210 – Fjallabaksleið syðri, which is not easy to drive either, from neither direction (west, nor east). There are several usually medium, sometimes big, river crossings. Please study this route carefully before going or just don’t go. Otherwise you can seriously hurt yourself. We described the drive in our detailed article about Strútslaug and also in our List of F-roads. We, however, take no responsibility for your drive.

This was the drive, and now the hike.

The hiking trail towards Strútslaug is roughly 5 kilometers long, not difficult at all, and it took us around 1.5 hours to finish it at a normal pace. It leads through nice valleys full of moss and along river streams. To hike to Strutslaug is a nice way to experience Icelandic highlands, even for families. The hike is pretty easy, just a bit long, but it doesn’t have any steep or exposed passages. It’s basically a walk through the moss valleys. Up until the last meters we were not sure where the end of the trail actually is. The Strutslaug itself is not well visible from the distance.

Tips about Strútslaug

There’s no changing cabin at Strutslaug. Anyway, we looked very much forward to bathing in Strutslaug, because the weather was very moody, with completely clouded skies and light drizzle throughout our entire hike. We put a bag on the wet ground, changed our clothes, covered them with waterproof clothes, and ran for the hot spring.

Video of Strútslaug

Sturlungalaug

sturlungalaug hot spring iceland

Sturlungalaug hot spring, sometimes called Guðmundarlaug

One of our favorite “hidden gems” hot springs in Iceland is definitely Sturlungalaug hot spring. Sturlungalaug, sometimes called by locals also Guðmundarlaug, is actually the only wild hot spring in Snæfellsnes peninsula. And not many visitors know about it. Don’t expect anything fancy, Sturlungalaug is basically just a big hole in the ground. But man, what a pleasant and remote hole!

Sturlungalaug hot spring type

In July, the water in Sturlungalaug was pleasantly hot, having around 38-39°C (102°F). We took a special care when entering the hotpot, because we saw bubbles in the water, indicating potentially dangerously hot water. We started by slowly trying the temperature at various spots, but the temperature was luckily stable, so we entered and enjoyed the soak. Sturlungalaug seems to be man-created but not often maintained and not much used. Hot spring water has been definitely here for hundreds of years, just someone took it above the ground.

How to get to Sturlungalaug

It’s not that easy to get to Sturlungalaug hot spring. There’s a dirt track leading to Sturlungalaug, which you will not find on majority of maps (including Google Maps). However, the track is displayed on one of the maps we use at Epic Iceland and the map is freely available to everyone else as well. The dirt track leading to Sturlungalaug is a 20-minute long bumpy drive on a not well maintained road.

map of sturlungalaug hot spring road

Map of the dirt track leading to Sturlungalaug hot spring

Technically it may be possible to reach Sturlungalaug by a 2wd car, but we highly recommend driving the Sturlungalaug dirt track with any proper 4wd car, due to bumpiness of the road and a possibility to damage your 2wd car. Sturlungalaug track leads through the old lava field and next to small and remote Icelandic huts, which is probably the only reason why there’s any road at all.

Tips about Sturlungalaug

Once you finish the road, there’s a little parking space about a minute of walk from Sturlungalaug hot spring and you just cannot miss it. We arrived to Sturlungalaug at around 7PM in the peak season in July and had the place all for ourselves. We highly recommend taking some kind of slippers to reach Sturlungalaug, because the grass leading there is pretty wet and you can get your shoes wet easily.

Bathing totally alone in a wild hot spring after a very long day, enjoying the scenery of the nearby remote surroundings, with the sun slowly setting down was a once in a lifetime experience even for myself, after having already visited Iceland numerous times in the past. Sturlungalaug hot spring was one of the highlights of our visit of Snæfellsnes peninsula.

Vök baths

Vök Baths hot spa iceland

Vök Baths hot spa

Posted by Igor in Guide, 17 comments
How to see Aurora in Iceland

How to see Aurora in Iceland

When to visit Iceland to see Northern Lights? What is the best month for Northern Lights in Iceland? How to maximize your chances of seeing Aurora in Iceland? These are some of the most asked questions when it comes to Northern Lights in Iceland.

Many websites write something about Northern Lights, but we haven’t seen any website with all necessary information combined in one article. That’s what we attempt to do today 🙂 Of course, you can write a scientific thesis on how to see Northern Lights in Iceland, also known as Aurora. But, we will try to keep our guide to Northern Lights brief, yet still give you all the details you need to know.

This post is part of our Winter Iceland articles series:

1. How to see Northern Lights in Iceland?

Here is the very quick and simplified guide:

  • Come when the days are dark (September to April)
  • Come when the skies are clear (better chances in September, October, March, April)
  • Center your visit around new moon phase
  • Watch forecast for days with no clouds
  • Watch forecast for high aurora activity
  • Stay away from cities and light

Discounts for the best Northern Lights Tours in Iceland for our readers

northern lights tour reykjavik

A picture by @r3dmax

2. When to visit Iceland to see Northern Lights?

The shortest answer is between September and April. You need to balance good weather with dark skies. The best balance seems to be somewhere around September/October and then March/April. No guarantees, due to unpredictable weather. Also, I suggest you read our entire article to understand what are your chances to see Northern Lights.

All you need to know about Iceland in Winter – a full guide

3. How to maximize your chances of seeing Aurora in Iceland?

There are 3 most important criteria that need to be met so that you can observe aurora in Iceland:

While dark days are quite easy to predict, clear skies are a bit harder to predict, but still possible. The most complicated thing to forecast is the aurora activity, a.k.a. solar activity. These are the most important factors that determine the quality of your Northern Lights show in Iceland. Besides these, there are also some smaller factors like time of the day, location and looking into right direction. Let’s dig deeper into all of these.

guided aurora tour reykjavik

Northern Lights next to Kirkjufell

3.1. Dark days

Dark days in Iceland are the easiest thing to predict. You know these with certainty. The shortest daylight hours are in December, with only 4 hours of daylight and the longest daylight hours are in June, with 21 hours of daylight.

It’s impossible to observe Aurora during the brightest season in May, June or July with a bare eye. This does not mean there’s no Aurora at that time. There is. You just can’t see it, because the skies are just too bright. On the other hand, in December you have almost a 20-hour long window to catch a glimpse of Northern Lights, which is pretty long. If it was only about dark days, the easy answer would be – come in December. But it’s also about weather and clear skies.

daylight hours in iceland

Daylight hours in Iceland by month

Secondly, skies are the darkest between 10PM and 12PM. These are the hours with biggest chances of seeing Northern Lights. This is also when most of the Northern Lights tours go out for the hunt.

Last but not least, dark skies also mean no light pollution. Stay away from cities, settlements or any substantial light sources and you will see a much stronger aurora, once it happens. This is where it’s useful to have a 4×4 car also in winter, so that you can reach more remote places with better (darker) light conditions also in winter.

3.2. Clear skies

Clear skies are a bit harder to forecast, because they all depend on weather. And as you have probably heard, weather changes quickly in Iceland and is quite unpredictable. That being said, the most stable weather outside of summer in Iceland is usually during early autumn – September, October and early spring – March, April. Not always though, for example October often has some nasty storms and weather alerts.

Can you see Northern Lights on a cloudy day? Either not at all, or just weak Northern Lights. Clear skies are very important for a beautiful, high-quality aurora show. There are 3 types of clouds – low level clouds, medium level clouds and high-level clouds. Ideally, you want none of these. You can easily observe the cloud forecast at en.vedur.is. Just bear in mind, the most reliable forecast is for the next 1 or 2 days.

how to read cloud forecast for aurora

Comparison of a good cloud forecast and a bad cloud forecast for Northern Lights from en.vedur.is

How is it possible then that Northern Lights tours go out every day? Well, the guides will try to find a spot with as little clouds as possible, based on both the forecast and recommendation of locals. With some skill and practice you can actually find some northern lights pretty often, at least the weaker ones, though not always.

3.3. Solar activity

The third very important factor is the solar activity, sometimes called aurora activity. Solar activity actually produces Northern Lights as sun gases. If there is no solar activity, there are no Northern Lights. If there is a strong solar activity, there may be a beautiful aurora on a clear and dark day.

Now how do you know if there’s a strong solar activity? Look at the solar activity forecast, measured by KP index, on en.vedur.is and/or in Northern Lights apps. Official Icelandic Meteorological forecast is, however, usually the most reliable one. KP index is the summary number for the solar activity. It’s a simplification. Of course, you can go much deeper than just KP index, just read below. 

glaciers and waterfalls aurora tour

Pictures from a guided Northern Lights tour from Reykjavik by Glaciers and Waterfalls, 10% discount code: EPICICELAND

3.3.1. KP Index

KP index basically measures the strength of the solar activity in a single number, combining several factors. It’s not perfect, nor universal, but often helps a lot.

  • KP 0-1 usually means you can’t observe aurora with bare eye, only with your camera.
  • KP 2-3 usually means weak, but already present Northern Lights, usually green only
  • KP 4-5 is already pretty good, with higher chances to see even colorful Aurora
  • KP 6-9 means strong Northern Lights of various colors, with KP of 8-9 happening only very rarely

Once again – there’s no guarantee you will see northern lights even if the KP index shines at 5. The KP index is just a forecast, changes frequently and locally in a matter of hours and it’s impossible to exactly predict. The same however applies to low KP index – sometimes you can see amazing Northern Lights even if the index is low.

kp index aurora iceland

KP index as stated on en.vedur.is

3.3.2. Long-term sun cycle (11 years)

Now you know you need dark days, clear skies and high solar activity. But is there any pattern in aurora activity? Actually, there are several notable patterns.

There’s a long-term sun cycle lasting approximately 11 years which has a strong influence on quality of Northern Lights. The most solar storms and the strongest solar winds (i.e. the highest solar activity) occur around the so-called “solar maximums”. The nearest solar maximum is predicted to happen around 2024-2025. Year 2020 was actually a year of a “solar minimum”.

This means, the chances for seeing spectacular Northern Lights in 2023, 2024 and in 2025 are pretty high!

long term aurora cycle iceland

Long term sun cycle that strongly determines the Northern Lights activity. Source: SWPC NOAA

3.3.3. Yearly equinox cycle (1 year)

On a yearly basis, solar activity often peaks during autumn and spring equinoxes, i.e. in September and in March. These are the months when (usually) chances of seeing the most beautiful Northern Lights rise considerably. Once again – no guarantees, because the overall aurora show depends on all of the other aspects mentioned in this article.

3.3.4. Short-term moon cycle (29 days)

Not many know, that moon cycle also affects your chances of seeing Northern Lights in Iceland. Specifically, a full moon makes the sky much brighter and, thus, lowers your chances of clearly seeing vibrant aurora.

On the other hand, skies are darkest during new moon phases. We recommend to come to Iceland a few days before new moon, or just center your visit around new moon to maximize your chances of seeing Northern Lights.

moon cycle aurora

Moon cycle explanation. Source: griffithobservatory.org

3.3.5. Solar storms

Apart from long-term sun cycles and short-term moon cycles, the so-called solar storms (or “substorms”) may occur every now and then. Solar storms are great for Northern Lights. They mean that strong solar winds will be hitting the earth’s magnetic field and this implies strong aurora. How to detect solar storms? Once again, the simplest way is to watch out for KP index, which already includes solar storm forecast.

If you insist of digging deeper, then you can watch out for so-called Coronal Mass Ejections (solar flares) of the sun. They indicate a potentially strong aurora in the upcoming hours.

aurora forecast iceland

Aurora forecast for Iceland from https://auroraforecast.is/

3.3.6. Interplanetary Magnetic Field

Want to go even deeper? Interplanetary Magnetic Field activity (or IMF), is an important component of the KP index. Sometimes KP can be low, and IMF can still be favorable. Many “aurora hunters” often claim that KP index is not everything, and you should rather be looking at IMF and the so-called BZ index (which is just the direction of IMF). You can read more about IMF here or here. To simplify it as much as possible, you need to be looking for:

  • Negative BZ index / IMF direction – the more negative, the better; this means solar winds going towards earth, not elsewhere
  • Strong IMF – the stronger, the brighter and more visible aurora
  • Fast Solar Wind – the faster, the better
aurora forecast metrics iceland

Aurora forecast for Iceland by https://hello-aurora.com/

3.4. Location

Guess why Northern Lights are called “northern”? Because most of the time they really appear in the north and in the northern direction of the sky. So, what does this mean for you? Look at the northern direction. And try to avoid any bigger obstacles (like mountains) in that direction. There are not many of them in Iceland, but just in case 🙂

Does it make sense to travel to the Northern Iceland to see Aurora rather than staying in the South? Not really, the difference between the North and the South will most likely be only minor. However, it makes huge sense to travel to spots where there are no clouds and which are away from lights and cities. Regardless of the direction.

guided aurora tour Myvatn

A picture from a guided aurora tour from Mývatn by Star Travel, 10% discount code: EPICICELAND

4. What is the best month to see Aurora in Iceland?

Best months to see Northern Lights in Iceland are September, October, March and April. This is just a very simplified recap of everything written above. If we take into consideration stability of weather, dark skies and sun activity, we will arrive at these 4 months to most likely have the best chances. Does it guarantee you to see Aurora? Not really, this is just about odds of seeing them.

What about November, December, January and February? You can surely experience a spectacular Northern Lights show also during these months. Just bear in mind that weather may be more cloudy and solar activity slightly lower.

Can I see Northern Lights in August? Yes, you can! Especially in the second half of August aurora already starts to appear. Although chances for a huge vibrant show are lower compared to winter, autumn and spring months, it’s still possible to see it.

Are May, June and July totally off the table? Yes, most of the time they are. Especially in June and July the skies are simply too bright for Aurora to be seen with the bare eye.

aurora tour akureyri

A picture from a guided aurora tour from Mývatn by Star Travel, 10% discount code: EPICICELAND

Advantages and Disadvantages of a specific month to see Aurora in Iceland:

  • June, July – impossible by bare eye, too light days
  • May – hardly possible by bare eye, too light days
  • August – sometimes possible in the second half; usually weaker show (not so dark days); but very good weather; no snow
  • September – pretty possible; medium show (still not very dark days); stable weather; yearly equinox peaks
  • April – same as September, just weather is a bit less stable and there may still be snow
  • October, March – high chances; good show; usually more storms and clouds (less stable weather); often also snow; yearly equinox peaks
  • November, February – similar to October and March, just more snow, less daylight, and weather may again be less stable
  • December, January – darkest days; a lot of snow; storms and weather alerts; no yearly equinox; if skies are clear and solar activity is high, show may be great

5. Is Iceland the best country to see Northern Lights?

Iceland is a great country to go for a Northern Lights hunt. It probably isn’t the best, though. I suggest you look at the map below, which shows with green/orange/red the areas with the highest likelihood of seeing a big Northern Lights show.

Global aurora forecast

Global aurora forecast

6. Why does everyone have amazing Northern Lights pictures?

The trick is, Aurora often looks much better on camera than in real life. This is due to the fact that you can set up your phone or camera’s settings in such a way, that they can capture presence of Northern Lights even if you can’t see them yourself. Specifically, you need a long shutter speed (20 seconds). Try googling “how to shoot northern lights”, you will get tons of results.

northern lights iceland cell phone photo

Our first-ever northern lights picture, near Höfn, 3rd September

6.1. Real life example of hunting for Northern Lights

A positive example to begin with. Once, we visited Iceland on September 3rd , in a year of a solar minimum. Despite all of these, our neighbors from the apartment next to us woke us up around midnight, all staring at the sky. Northern Lights were there! Not very strong, with green colors only, but they were there. We didn’t even try to chase Aurora at this time of the year, yet aurora turned out to be chasing us.

Next time, we spent 2 weeks in Iceland during the last week of February and the first week of March, and, unfortunately, we’ve clearly seen Northern Lights on one evening only. Moreover, the sight was very similar to the one experienced in September. Not very strong and green colors only. We were watching forecast every day, chasing the spots with clear skies and we didn’t see any major show over entire 2 weeks of this winter trip.

aurora seydisfjordur iceland

Our first winter Aurora “show” in Seyðisfjörður. Shot by simple cell phone. 28th February.

Our advice is simple, though. Don’t visit Iceland only because of Northern Lights. Don’t make Aurora the ultimate purpose of your trip. Go and explore the beautiful winter Iceland, and when the conditions are right for Northern Lights, they will be an amazing bonus to experience. Don’t let not seeing them ruin your holiday, because it’s perfectly possible you may not see them even after reading this guide.

7. Useful Northern Lights websites and apps

  • The most reliable aurora forecast in Iceland is always done by Icelandic Meteorological OfficeEn.vedur.is
  • There are many other websites, for example www.auroraforecast.is, in our experience, though,  Vedur was always the best
  • For a global aurora forecast watch SWPC NOAA website, it forecasts with a 45min lead time
  • What are the best Northern Lights Apps? We are getting the best feedback on on App called Hello Aurora; nevertheless, we prefer Icelandic Meteo Office website

8. Best Northern Lights guided tours

Does it make sense to book a guided tour for Northern Lights? Yes and no. On one hand, you are definitely able to observe Northern Lights in Iceland on your own.

On the other hand, a tour guide will surely maximize your chances of seeing the Aurora. The guides have the best weather forecast available and they can ask locals about the current Northern Lights conditions all around Iceland. This is the huge advantage. If you don’t want to bother about forecasts yourself, then go for the Aurora tour in Iceland.

We have hand-picked the best Northern Lights tours, all with 5* reviews only, and amazing and knowledgeable guides.

aurora tour troll expeditions reykjavik

A picture from a guided Northern Lights tour from Reykjavik, 5% discount code: EPICICELAND23

8.1. Aurora Tours from Reykjavik

The only difference between the tours below is the number of participants and the vehicle used for transport.

8.1.1. Cheapest tour by Minibus 

This is the most popular Northern Lights tour by minibus. It’s the cheapest, with the biggest number of participants, departs from Reykjavik, and is operated by a minibus.

You can use a 5% discount code for the tour: EPICICELAND23

northern lights tour troll expeditions

A picture from a guided Northern Lights tour from Reykjavik, 5% discount code: EPICICELAND23

8.1.2. Semi-private tour by Super Jeep

This is an amazing semi-private Northern Lights tour operated by family-owned company called Glaciers and Waterfalls. You will be transported by a super jeep and the maximum number of participants will be limited to 6. You can have a 10% discount on all Glaciers and Waterfalls tours with the discount code: EPICICELAND 

8.1.3. Private tour by Super Jeep

Want to go for a private Northern Lights tour with a super jeep from Reykjavik? Private Aurora tour by Glaciers and Waterfalls is most likely the best tour for you. You can have a 10% discount on all Glaciers and Waterfalls tours with the discount code: EPICICELAND 

northern lights tour reykjavik

A picture from a guided Northern Lights tour from Reykjavik by Glaciers and Waterfalls, 10% discount code: EPICICELAND

8.1.4. A 3-Day Northern Lights Hunt by Jeep

Planning a Northern Lights tour for just one day is almost always a hit or miss. You can never be sure the show will be going on your day. That’s why we also recommend trying an amazing 3-day Aurora Hunting tour by Jeep.

This Aurora tour is run by the legendary Icelandic super jeep company – Midgard Adventure. You will never make a mistake by booking their tours. They are the stars in what they do in Iceland!

Our readers can also enjoy an exclusive 5% discount code for the Midgard Adventure northern lights tour: EPICICELAND5

northern lights jeep tour iceland

Picture from a fantastic 3-day Northern Light tour by www.midgardadventure.is, 5% discount code: EPICICELAND5

8.2. Aurora Tours in the North

The only difference between the tours below is the number of participants and a vehicle used for transport.

8.2.1. Cheapest tour by Minibus 

Start Travel is an amazing family-owned tour company with only 5* reviews, conducting tours for more than 10 years already. Star Travel offers 3 variants of the Northern Lights tour. The first one is operated by minibus, it’s the cheapest and with the biggest number of participants. Here is the cheapest minibus Aurora tour from Mývatn. You can have a 10% discount on all Star Travel tours with the discount code: EPICICELAND

northern lights tour myvatn

A picture from a guided aurora tour from Mývatn by Star Travel, 10% discount code: EPICICELAND

8.2.2. Semi-private tour by Super Jeep

This Super Jeep Northern Lights tour by Star Travel is operated by a jeep and limited to 8 people. If you want a semi private Aurora tour from Mývatn or Akureyri with your own guide, then this is in our opinion the best tour you can take. You can have a 10% discount on all Star Travel tours with the discount code: EPICICELAND

8.2.3. Private tour by Super Jeep

Do you want a Northern Lights private tour with a super jeep from Mývatn or Akureyri? We think the Private tour by Star Travel is the best option. Moreover, you can have a 10% discount on all Star Travel tours with the discount code: EPICICELAND

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Posted by Igor in Guide, Winter, 0 comments
Iceland in Winter – What you need to know

Iceland in Winter – What you need to know

Iceland in winter is very specific and you need to both prepare well and set your expectations right. We’ve put together a list of all important nuances you should prepare for when visiting Iceland in winter.

This post is part of our Winter Iceland articles series:

1. Quick tips for Iceland in Winter

  • Be flexible. Weather may entirely change your plans for the day. Tours may get cancelled. Roads can get closed. Flight schedules can change pretty often too. Be mentally ready for that.
  • Plan shorter days. It will take you longer to hike. It will take you longer to drive. It will take you longer to change the clothes. Weather alert may even squeeze your day into 2 hours only.
  • Drive carefully. And choose a proper car. Driving on icy roads is no joke. But it’s doable if you drive with respect, caution and practice gradually. Watch www.road.is daily.
  • Don’t underestimate. Wind, ice, driving, weather alerts, dark days. It may not end up well.
  • Dress accordingly. It’s not that cold, but it’s very windy, it may rain and snow. No jeans.
  • Bring shoe spikes. Or buy them once you arrive. It’s very icy on every hike. It’s Iceland.
  • Set your expectations right. Read this article for many more tips 🙂
  • Enjoy Iceland!! No matter the weather or your plans, Iceland will be amazing!
iceland in winter

Winter in Iceland

2. Winter weather in Iceland

Want a real life example of what the weather in Iceland is like in winter? Last time we visited Iceland for 2 weeks at the end of February / beginning of March, we experienced the following weather:

  • 3 days with weather alerts (strong winds and rain) – two of them on the days of our flights (yes, flights were postponed)
  • 2 days with sun, clear skies and no wind
  • 2 days with sun, clear skies and very strong wind
  • 2 cloudy and windy days
  • 1 rainy and foggy day
  • 4-5 days with the mixture of all of the above in one day
road to seydisfjordur winter

Road to Seyðisfjörður in winter

2.1. Winter temperatures in Iceland

It’s actually not so cold in Iceland in winter as you might expect. In February, we had days ranging from -5°C (i.e. 23°F) to +8°C (i.e. 46°F). The ocean warms up the coastal areas (i.e.  basically almost the entire ring road), so it’s never -20°C in here. It can be that cold in the highlands, though. But you probably aren’t going to Icelandic highlands in winter, unless on a tour or unless you have some Icelandic friends with super jeeps 🙂

2.2. What is the weather like in Iceland in winter?

Expect a wild and unpredictable mixture of sunny days with blue skies, rainy days (yes, rainy!), cloudy days, windy days, snowy days and a mixture of those and anything in between and all of that sometimes changing even several times during the day.

skogafoss winter iceland

Wind blowing famous Skógafoss to the left

2.3. Wind in winter

Expect wind. A lot of it. Expect it to be strong, usually stronger than you are used to. It is not the cold, nor the rain/snow that may interrupt your plans, most of the time it is the strong wind, that, simply occurs every now and then during the winter. And it often causes weather alerts. Both our inbound and outbound flights in February/March were postponed due to strong winds by 8 hours and 2 hours respectively. Some airlines rather cancel the flights, see section on flights below.

2.4. Weather alerts

Related to the wind are the so called weather alerts. This usually means a very strong wind, sometimes combined with rain and/or snow. Wind may reach a hurricane force speed. No, you don’t want to drive or hike, or even walk outside when this kind of wind blows! There are three types of weather alerts – yellow, orange and red.

iceland weather alert

This is how you may end up driving in a weather alert. Source: www.ruv.is

  • Red is the worst, as you probably suspected. Stay in a safe, indoor place under all circumstances
  • Orange is the next,  don’t drive in the orange alert. It may be possible to drive some really short distances but expect strong wind blows and usually wet and slippery roads. An ideal recipe for an accident. So, better don’t drive at all.
  • Yellow alert is the least bad, but still pretty uncomfortable. And dangerous. Drive only when necessary and only short distances. Expect strong wind blows and usually also wet and slippery roads, just not that much as with the orange alert. Don’t drive through mountain passes at all (e.g. to Seyðisfjörður). Don’t plan any hikes. You can try walking outside but it won’t be very comfortable.
storm in iceland

An ugly storm may make streets look like this for a while. Source: www.ruv.is

All alerts are much more bearable in cities. So, if you are staying in Reykjavik or Akureyri, you may try having a walk in yellow or even orange alert and see how it goes. Never in a red alert. Usually, you will want to avoid areas with any kind of alert, because neither driving, nor staying outside is very pleasant, and may actually even be dangerous. Things may be flying in the air during orange and red alerts.

iceland weather alert roads

This is what roads during weather alert in Iceland may look like

3. What to check before heading out

Every day, before heading out, check the:

  • Official Icelandic Meteorological website en.vedur.is for weather and weather alerts.
  • Official Icelandic Road Administration website www.road.is for current road conditions. Roads may easily get closed or impassable in winter in Iceland. See the section about roads below.
  • www.safetravel.is just to be sure you haven’t missed any alert or warning
icelandic horses in winter

Wind playing with horses’ hair. One of our favorite shots.

4. What month is the best to visit in winter?

Everybody has different priorities. You, and only you need to choose based on your priorities. You will never get everything 🙂 Every month in Iceland has some advantages and some disadvantages.

How to see Aurora in Iceland? A full guide to Northern Lights in Iceland

4.1. Best month in Iceland daylight-wise

When it comes to daylight hours, the closer you get to December, the shorter the daylight hours. This, on one hand, means much shorter days for any tours, hikes or sightseeing. On the other hand, this means higher chances for observing Northern Lights. Moreover, if you want to experience a fairy-tale-like Iceland full of snow, your chances are again higher the closer you get to December.

daylight hours in iceland

Daylight hours in Iceland by month

A good compromise may be months like October, February, or March, when there’s still enough daylight, but also dark enough skies for northern lights and most likely also snowy surroundings.

4.2. Best month in Iceland weather-wise

Weather-wise – you cannot predict it. It’s different each year. It’s impossible to say whether March has better weather compared to December or anything like that. The same applies to weather alerts. There are years and months when they don’t happen at all and then you have a week with 3 weather alerts. Get used to it. It’s part of traveling to Iceland in winter.

winter road iceland

Clear skies in Iceland in March, next to Kirkjufell

Generally, weather is slightly more stable around September, March, or April. But, these are already kind of autumn/spring months, not exactly winter ones like November, December, January and February. October is often a good balance of chances for northern lights, still warm enough weather, less tourists and cheap prices, however there are often storms and weather alerts.

4.3. Best month in Iceland northern lights-wise

The shortest answer is between September and April. You need to balance good weather with dark skies. The best balance seems to be somewhere around September/October and then March/April. No guarantees, due to unpredictable weather. The drawback of these months may be less snow. Also, I suggest you read our Detailed Guide to Northern Lights to understand what are your chances to see Northern Lights and how to maximize them.

aurora seydisfjordur iceland

Our first Aurora “show” in Seyðisfjörður. Shot by simple cell phone.

4.4. Best month in Iceland snow-wise

Many visitors come to Iceland to experience a winter full of snow. If you come between November and February, you will most likely have a lot of snow everywhere. As we mentioned above, the more you head into central Iceland, away from the coast, the more snow you will see. Pretty often, you will experience snow also anytime from October until April, though not always. For example, on one occasion we visited Iceland at the end of February/beginning of March and there was almost no snow at the coastal areas. Temperatures reached up to +8°C (i.e. 46°F) and it rained, instead of snow.

kirkjufell in winter

Kirkjufell in winter covered by snow

4.5. Best month in Iceland for Ice Caves

Oh and Ice caves! They are usually open from sometimes in October until sometimes in April. They change in shape and accessibility as the ice freezes or melts, with the peak ranging from November to March. These are the months when all of the ice caves are usually fully accessible. The most beautiful ice cave is usually the “crystal blue ice cave” near Jökulsárlón. You can visit ice caves only with guided tours, because it’s dangerous to go there alone. Once too much of snow and ice melts around end of April, most of the ice caves become too dangerous to visit and only some less (but still) beautiful ice caves stay open, like Katla ice cave.

A PROMO CODE EPICICELAND will get you a 5% discount with Local Guide of Vatnajökull, (in our opinion) the best Ice Cave and Glacier tour company.

best ice cave in iceland

Crystal Blue Ice Cave near Jökulsárlón

5. Planning the accommodations in winter in Iceland

Accommodations very rarely get fully booked in winter in Iceland. By fully booked I mean all of the accommodations in some area. Yes, if you really want to stay in this particular hotel or cabin, that particular one may easily get fully booked, of course. But chances are, you will find a different accommodation option pretty easily, just not such a great one, maybe.

5.1. Last minute bookings

As I pointed out above, one of the options is to book accommodations “last minute”. This is pretty doable in winter. Worst case, you will need to drive an hour (or less) to reach the next free accommodation.

iceland winter 4x4 car

Yes, 4×4 car may be very useful in winter in Iceland

5.2. Flexible bookings in advance

The second option involves booking everything in advance, with 3 (or less) days cancellation option. This is what we prefer. 3 days upfront you are often able to tell whether you will be able to reach your accommodation or not. But it takes time to manage it, of course.

5.3. Fixed bookings in advance

The third option is to book everything without the cancellation option. In this case, I do recommend not booking the places too far from each other. For example, not farther than a 2-3 hour drive, or the drive you can make even in bad weather, worst case in the yellow alert. In case of a weather alert, you can always call your accommodation and try to arrange for an adjustment. Trust me, Icelanders are used to weather alerts.

winter villages iceland

Picturesque houses in Hali

5.4. Campervans and Camping

The fourth option is booking a campervan, motorhome or for the most adventurous ones camping in tents. This is the least comfortable option, because Iceland can be pretty harsh in winter. But it’s definitely adventurous and often also cheaper. The important thing is – it is mandatory to stay in the designated campsites only, especially in winter. And only some campsites are opened in winter, check it before going!

We offer to our readers a 5% PROMO CODE for Go Campers rental.

5.5. Which campsites in Iceland are open in Winter?

To make it more challenging for you, there is no accurate, up to date list of Icelandic campsites that are open in winter. Campsites themselves make it harder for visitors, because every now and then some of them close and some of them open in winter. I highly suggest you call/write the campsite in advance to check whether the campsite is open around the time of your visit. Below are some useful sources that have tried to list campsites opened in winter in Iceland:

Secondly, bear in mind that even if the campsite is open, not all amenities may be in operation in winter. Some campsites operate as normally, while other ones close their kitchen areas and/or even showers and offer only a space for a tent. Check this by contacting the campsite.

hauganes hot pots in winter

Hauganes hot pots in winter

6. Essential clothes for winter Iceland

What I brought and it was fully sufficient for a 2-week trip in February:

  • pair of waterproof hiking boots with ankle support and anti-slippery rubber outsoles (like Vibram); ideally also insulated/winter ones
  • 2 lower layers – base one (wool or synthetic), and the outer one (water and windproof pants)
  • 3 upper layers – base one (wool or synthetic), middle one (fleece), and the outer one (water and windproof jacket with a hood)
  • 1 pair of waterproof gloves, 1 woolen hat, 1 thicker balaclava, sunglasses and shoe covers to not let the snow get into your shoes from above
iceland winter clothes

My winter “gear” for Iceland

My wife brought the same clothes, just one additional lower layer. What we wish we had brought were the shoe spikes. You don’t need real crampons for majority of normal hikes in Iceland. But you definitely need spikes, if you plan to do hikes longer than 15 minutes. We’ve done 4-5 such hikes and were struggling a lot with hiking shoes only. Everywhere is snow and ice. Be prepared for it and get yourself some spikes. You can also buy them easily in Iceland.

However, if you don’t plan any regular hikes and you want to only stop at typical touristy places like waterfalls, hot springs, ring road spots etc., majority of them are accessible within 10 minutes of walk even without spikes. That being said, spikes are always an advantage, so it’s always better to bring them or to buy them on arrival. Tour companies often rent them to their clients for free.

7. Icelandic Roads in winter

Always use www.road.is for checking the roads. Every day. They often get closed or impassable in Iceland in winter. What does impassable mean? It means an Icelander with a big jeep may be able to pass, but not you. Secondly, closed means closed – any drive is strictly forbidden! Thirdly, “no winter service” is very similar to “impassable”, see details in our article explaining the difference between impassable road and no winter service road.

7.1. Icelandic road color system in theory

Now what do all these colors on www.road.is mean? Here is an official description of the Icelandic road conditions’ colors:

iceland road conditions legend

Icelandic road conditions types

7.2. Icelandic road color system in reality

We drove a basic 4wd car, Dacia Duster in February and all colors except red (impassable) and black ones (difficult driving) were pretty much easily passable. Yes, even all these orange, blue or purple roads were OK to drive on. BUT. This depends a lot on your driving experience. We come from regions where we are used to driving in winter, even in 2wd cars. If you have driven your entire life in Florida and not seen the snow, then this may be harder for you and take special care.

Generally, all these different colors mean there will be some ice and some snow on the roads. Practically this means, you have to drive slowly and be careful, not jump on breaks, not make quick turns. Otherwise, the roads are usually passable also with a 2wd car (yes, even the orange, blue, purple, white marked roads). A 4wd car is always an advantage, though! But don’t drive the black and the red roads. These are for super jeeps with experienced drivers only. Sometimes even they get stuck.

roads winter iceland

This is a well-maintained winter road without snow

What, however, can change the situation dramatically, is weather. If it rains, snows or there’s a strong wind, it is much more dangerous to drive on an icy or snowy road. You need to be more careful and experienced if this is the case. The only way how to be sure about this, is to slowly try all these conditions yourself. Observe very carefully and gradually what you are and what you are not capable to drive through. Most importantly, if feeling unsecure, better stop, wait or find a different road.

7.3. Driving times in winter

In summer, you can more or less rely on time estimates produced by Google Maps, or any similar GPS software. In winter, this is not the case at all. In fact, the opposite is the case. It always takes us longer to complete the drive in winter. For obvious reasons – snow, rain, wind. I suggest counting with roughly double the summer/normal times – if you insist on any estimates.

snowy road iceland

A typical winter road condition in Iceland – a little bit of ice, a little bit of snow

8. Car rental in winter

Do you need a 4wd car in winter in Iceland? Well, I always recommend taking at least a cheap 4wd car like Dacia Duster when traveling to Iceland in winter. You never know where and when you can get stuck in the snow. It may even be just at the car park. Here’s where 4wd comes handy. The longer you plan to stay in Iceland and the more you plan to go away just from the ring road, the more you need a 4wd car.

For majority of beautiful and accessible places in Iceland a simple 4wd car would be enough. If you plan to drive the less driven roads (e.g. the 3-digit roads or mountain passes, or the roads marked with black) the bigger 4wd car like Toyota Land Cruiser comes really handy. And as always – the bigger car you rent, the bigger the chance you will not get stuck!

road to svínafellsjökull in winter

Road to Svínafellsjökull in winter

What about highlands, super jeeps and all these roads marked as “no winter service” or “impassable”? Technically, it’s not forbidden to drive them, we explain more about Icelandic roads being impassable here. BUT. You need a huge vehicle for it, let’s call it a super jeep, and a good local knowledge of the roads. This means – either team up with someone local or better book a super jeep tour.

8.1. Our winter car rental experience

We have already had a great experience with Go Car rental in summer, so we rented with them again in winter. We rented a 4wd Dacia Duster, the best price to value car for any ring road trips in my opinion. Our trip was scheduled for the last week of February and the first week of March. Dacia Duster is a great choice for simple F-roads in summer, for the entire ring road, and also for the majority of winter trips, because it is a 4wd car for a very affordable price. We write more about it in our guide on How to choose the best car for Iceland.

A PROMO CODE epic5 will get you a 5% discount with Go Car Rental and us a small commission at no extra cost to you. 

Go Car rental already includes super collision damage waiver, gravel protection and theft protection in their rental prices. These are the insurances you’re gonna need the most in winter in Iceland. In most of the cases, you basically don’t have to do anything additional with the insurance anymore. If you want to fully understand how Icelandic car rental insurance works, we wrote a guide on Icelandic car rental insurance.

iceland winter car rental

We strongly suggest to rent a 4wd car, at least a simple one.

Once again, we had a great and smooth experience with the rental from Go Car. They have an office located just a 5-minutes walk from the airport hall (right next to the Aurora airport hotel). No need to take expensive taxis or wait hours for a shuttle. We collected our car within 15 minutes, not waiting in their office at all. The staff just quickly explained to us some basic car rental rules and we were good to go. The (great) experience is very similar also with Lotus car rental and MyCar rental.

A PROMO CODE epicicelandd5 will get you a 5% discount with Lotus and us a small commission at no extra cost to you. 

The car itself was a great choice. We didn’t have a single problem with our Duster. We got everywhere we needed and everything worked just as it should have. We had a huge luggage suitcase which fit right into the car trunk and all our backpacks and food could easily be stored on back seats. For 3 or more people I would recommend bigger car, though. Duster is the most popular choice in Iceland and for a reason.

A RARE PROMO CODE EPICICELAND will get you a 5% discount with MyCar and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Go Car Rental is not the only great car rental company in Iceland. We have used several times in the past also Lotus Car Rental and MyCar Rental. We can more than just recommend all these 3 companies. Lotus is special in Iceland, because they offer a full platinum insurance that insures absolutely everything, even F-roads and river crossings (in summer). MyCar offers the best customer service and rents brand new Toyota cars for affordable prices.

We offer to our readers a 5% PROMO CODE for Go Campers rental.

For Campervans we can more than just recommend two amazing companies with amazing service and reliable Campervans. Probably the most famous Icelandic Campervan company is Happy Campers. They have a base at Keflavik airport. Slightly less known, but equally great company are Go Campers. They have a base in Reykjavik city.

winter car rental iceland

Dacia Duster is a very good 4wd price/value. It will not get you everywhere, though!

9. Flights to Iceland in winter

Flights to and from Iceland often get delayed in winter and sometimes even cancelled. All delays and cancellations are due to weather. For example, both of our February flights (inbound and outbound) were delayed. First one by 8 hours due to orange weather alert. Second one by 3 hours due to strong winds. Flight cancellations most of the time happen on intercontinental flights (flights from the US or Asia). Flights inside the Europe most of the time get just delayed.

10. Northern lights

How to see northern lights in Iceland? Where to see aurora in Iceland? When to see northern lights in Iceland? These are some pretty often googled questions. Yet, your googling may often bring confusing results. So, let’s get Northern Lights in Iceland straight. If you want to maximize your chances of seeing aurora in Iceland, I suggest you read our Detailed Guide on Northern Lights in Iceland, where we dive deeper into the topic. If you insist on a short answer then to see Northern Lights in Iceland, you need “only” 3 things:

  1. Dark skies
  2. Clear skies
  3. Aurora activity
iceland best place northern lights

Northern Lights show as witnessed at Aurora Viking guided tour

10.1. What are the best months to see Northern Lights in Iceland?

The shortest answer is between September and April. You need to balance good weather with dark skies. The best balance seems to be somewhere around September/October and then March/April. No guarantees, due to unpredictable weather. Also, I suggest you read our Full Northern Lights Guide article to understand what are your chances to see Northern Lights. A very very short summary is below:

Discounts on Best Aurora Guided Tours in Iceland

10.2. How to see Aurora in Iceland?

  • Come when the days are dark (September to April)
  • Come when the skies are clear (better chances in September, October, March, April)
  • Center your visit around new moon phase
  • Watch forecast for days with no clouds
  • Watch forecast for high aurora activity
  • Stay away from cities and light
northern lights guided tour

Northern lights guided tour by Glaciers and Waterfalls, 10% discount code: EPICICELAND

11. Hiking in winter in Iceland

Firstly, expect majority of tougher hikes (like Fimmvörðuháls, or hikes in Landmannalaugar, Kerlingarfjöll, or Þakgil) to be impassable and closed to general public. This is true once the first real snow settles in the highlands, which usually happens beginning of October. The snow then remains in the highlands until May, June, or sometimes (2022) even July. These tougher hikes then re-open to visitors once the major snow-packs melt, i.e. usually sometimes in June. If you are unsure about a specific hike, please contact safetravel.is for reliable information.

Secondly, don’t worry, of course you can hike also in winter in Iceland. Just try to pick a shorter hike, an easier hike, and a day with good weather (no strong wind, rain, snow or fog). While we often recommend going “off the beaten path” in summer, we recommend totally the opposite in winter. Remote places in winter mean no traces of footsteps, deep snow and no help anywhere – avoid them.

kvernufoss winter

An easy hike to Kvernufoss in winter

Thirdly, buy spikes and wear them on your shoes! Spikes are totally invaluable for almost all winter hikes in Iceland. Winter hiking trails in Iceland are very often frozen, icy and slippery – you need a good grip and no winter shoes will guarantee that. Finally, similarly to driving times, expect your hiking times to roughly double. You will be hiking on an icy terrain and/or through snow and pretty often against wind. Such hikes are also much more strenuous, count on that.

12. Tourists

There are less tourists in Iceland in winter compared to summer (June, July, August and September). BUT. Winter is still a pretty popular time to visit Iceland, so don’t expect to be alone there. The typical touristy sights like a golden circle, silver circle and south coast can get pretty packed even in winter. That’s why we prefer visiting mostly places where tour buses don’t go, or where they go only seldom.

monthly visitors iceland

Visitors in Iceland by months

The busiest winter month is March, because the daylight is longer, Iceland still looks like a winter fairytale and there’s still a good chance to see northern lights. Prices are highest in March out of all winter months. March is then followed by February, January and November. The least visited winter month is December.

We prefer to visit Iceland in winter at the end of February, because the chances for northern lights are pretty good, the country is still covered in snow, the number of tourists is bearable and the daylight hours are sufficient. And as always, we try to avoid the most touristy places like Golden Circle. That being said, in winter it makes much more sense to visit also touristy places in Iceland. Why?

reynisfjara beach winter

Reynisfjara beach can easily get crowded also in winter. This is one of the most touristy places in Iceland.

First of all, there will be less tourists compared to summer. Secondly, imagine hiking in a strong wind, sometimes rain and snow and a cold weather. You will more than just welcome all these “touristy infrastructure” places, where you may warm up a little bit, eat or drink something hot and just relax inside for a while.

Last but not least, it’s much safer to stay around more touristy spots in winter. Believe me, you don’t want to get stuck in snow somewhere alone, be it a road, a hike, or a remote accommodation. In summer, this is not much of an issue, but in winter it may be. That’s why we are strong advocates of remote places in summer, not that much in winter, though.

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Posted by Igor in Guide, Winter, 0 comments
How to find a nice weather in Iceland?

How to find a nice weather in Iceland?

The aim of this guide is to help you assess the weather conditions at a particular place during your visit in Iceland. It works best in the summer season (June to September), although we believe there’s a lot of useful info also for the other seasons. Always check first the safetravel.is website and road.is for any travel and road warnings – these are priority number one.

In the winter, please additionally to all rules below – carefully consider also snow conditions and shorter daylight hours.

vestrahorn in rain iceland

Vestrahorn in rain

Beginner’s mistakes in the Icelandic weather forecast

1. “The forecast shows rain all of the time!”

Us: OK, what did you look at?

He: “What, what? The forecast!”

Us: OK, but what forecast? 🙂

He: “Like what, what? On google”.

The forecast on Google is from weather.com and this forecast sucks entirely. It usually shows rain everywhere almost all of the time, because there’s a CHANCE it can rain. Yes, there’s a chance everywhere and all of the time in Iceland that it can rain 🙂 But such a forecast is useless. Please when looking at the forecast, look at the official Icelandic meteorological office website en.vedur.is. This is the most precise forecast.

2. “I looked at en.vedur.is and it shows rain in the south!”

OK, once again, what did you look at? This general country forecast?

iceland weather forecast

General local Icelandic weather forecast screen

This is a good indication of the entire weather situation in the country, but the weather may change rapidly also LOCALLY. In order to find out what the weather might be at your points of interest, look at the regional/local forecast of the specific place you plan to visit.

3. “I looked at the specific place where I plan to go at en.vedur.is and it shows rain!”

OK, good, and did you look at the intensity of the rain? Did you look specifically at the rain forecast itself, not just a general weather forecast? There’s a section called “precipitation” at en.vedur.is which you should study precisely.

heavy rain forecast iceland

Your best chances for no rain are at Snaefellsnes. Although, it may rain there as well, of course, but probably less than elsewhere.

4. “I looked at the weather forecast and the next week should be beautiful”

OK, good for you, but please don’t rely on a 1-week ahead forecast. This is simply too long for Iceland to hold without changes. It’s more than possible that the 1-week ahead forecast will change entirely. Unfortunately, it is not possible to plan according to the weather that far ahead. In our experience, the forecast becomes very reliable some 1-2 days before the planned date.

5. “The forecast for Fimmvorduhals hike for tomorrow shows nice weather and no rain”

OK, great. The chances are, you are all set for the beautiful day. But never forget to check the WIND as well. The wind may be very strong and dangerous, especially in the mountains. If the weather is generally nice in the summer, the wind usually isn’t that strong. But it may be. So please, better make sure and check the specific wind forecast as well.

Where to find the precise Icelandic weather forecast

In the above lines, we tried to present some examples of how NOT to look at the Icelandic weather forecast. We also mentioned some ways how the forecast can be improved. Let’s summarize them here. So, in the first place – where to find the precise Icelandic weather forecast? At en.vedur.is. This is the official forecasting website of the Icelandic meteorological office and you will hardly find any better for Iceland.

Next thing – don’t look just at the general forecast – icons of sun/clouds/rain, temperature, wind speed. Go more into detail.

Firstly, search for the location of your interest and look at that particular region:

iceland forecast regions

Regional forecast

Secondly, look at the dedicated precipitation forecast and then at the dedicated wind forecast. These are the most precise estimates of rain and wind throughout the country and at your place of interest. We were surprised to realize how many visitors don’t know about these two forecasts at all:

rain and wind forecast iceland

LEFT: This is how a “rain forecast” may look like in detail. Many places with no rain at all! RIGHT: a bit windy weather, better avoid Snaefellsnes!

Thirdly, don’t plan too much ahead (like 1-week or more). The most precise and reliable forecasts are the ones 1-2 days before the desired date.

Fourthly, look at the evolution in time. If the forecast shows no rain just during a particular hour, but rain during all other times, the chances are you will experience rain anyway. On the other hand, if the forecast shows rain just at a particular hour and no rain for the rest of the day, the chances are you will not experience rain at all.

How to read the Icelandic weather forecast

Let’s say you plan to do the Fimmvorduhals hike the day after tomorrow (as we planned here). How to find out as precisely as possible what weather to expect?

First of all, let’s precisely locate the Fimmvorduhals trail in the map of en.vedur.is. After short research you should realize it’s about here:

fimmvorduhals weather forecast

Fimmvorduhals hike located on a general weather forecast map

This (and a few kilometers around) is the place you should be looking at in all of the forecasts. So let’s now locate it in the more detailed regional forecast at en.vedur.is:

fimmvorduhals weather forecast

Fimmvorduhals hike located on a local weather forecast map.

Better, but we still don’t know where exactly the rain showers will be and what the wind will be like. So let’s firstly look at the rain forecast:

fimmvorduhals rain forecast evolution

Fimmvorduhals rain forecast evolution

What we aim for is no rain (default brown-pinkish ground color) or little rain (occasional yellow color). Anything other is just a stronger rain. Always scroll in time throughout your desired day. If there’s no rain at all during all different times, the chances are there will be no rain also in reality.

In the example above, there’s actually no rain at the Fimmvorduhals pass at all. There’s a lot of rain nearby, though. Thus, the chances are, that most likely there should be no rain – if the rain area doesn’t move to the west. Now let’s do the same also with the wind forecast:

fimmvorduhals wind forecast evolution

Fimmvorduhals wind forecast evolution

Here we aim for the lightest green color. The darker it gets, the worse. Ideally, it should stay at green, or at worse blue – this is already a considerable wind you will feel. Anything worse might be already dangerous. Same as with the rain forecast, please analyze the wind throughout the day. In the example above the wind should be fine.

What if it rains everywhere?

If you look at the detailed local forecast – as we described above – most of the time you are able to find places with little or no rain. This is the strategy we used and thanks to it experienced almost no rain during our last 18-day long trip. Even if the forecast stated rain for most of the country.

Sveinstindur near Langisjor

Upper part of the hike on Sveinstindur near Langisjor lake on a foggy day with slight rain

Nevertheless, sometimes there are really days when it simply rains almost everywhere and almost during the entire day. Does it mean your day is completely lost then? Not at all. Although your options are a bit narrowed down, you still have plenty of them. We wrote an entire article about what to do when it rains in Iceland.

Weather and road alerts

The most important thing to look at – and to begin with – is the weather and road alerts. You can find most of these summarized on the website www.safetravel.is. Weather-related alerts are also to be found on en.vedur.is. Road-related warnings are displayed on road.is.

Please always CHECK THESE FIRST. If everything is OK, then proceed with the planning of your trip further. These alerts appear all year round in various forms, so please read them daily.

For example, during our stay in August, it rained a bit more for 3 days and some of the roads became impassable even in the middle of the summer. We planned to cross the country via F26, only to realize the day before the trip that it was marked impassable due to the high water level in the Hagakvisl river. We had to change our plans, but better to change your plans than to get your 50 000 Eur worth car rental drown in the river. Or worse – to end up in the river yourself.

iceland august impassable road

The road F26 becomes impassable in August due to heavy rain.

The other day there was a strong wind warning for the Snaefellsnes peninsula, hence we decided not to travel there. All of these warnings are useful and can help you save time, nerves, health, and money.

We hope this guide helped you at least a little bit with the planning of your trip. If you have any questions or ideas, always feel free to post them in the comments section.

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Posted by Igor in Guide, Tips, 11 comments