Igor has spent months exploring every inch of Iceland over several years. He specializes in the Highlands, F-roads, hiking, hot springs, and less touristy places. He loves Iceland and keeps coming back.
Igor has spent months exploring every inch of Iceland over several years. He specializes in the Highlands, F-roads, hiking, hot springs, and less touristy places. He loves Iceland and keeps coming back.
If you type into Google “super jeep rent iceland”, one of the top queries is an article suggestively titled “Why renting a super jeep in Iceland is the dumbest thing you can do”. This is a non-sense statement and anyone with only a little knowledge about Iceland has to disagree.
There’s no precise answer to this question. Generally, by a “super jeep” someone means a bigger than usual jeep/car. Is the Toyota Land Cruiser already a super jeep? Probably not really. What I consider to be a super jeep is a 4×4 car/jeep with some (or better all) of the following:
-artificially modified (raised) ground clearance -35” tires and bigger -special tires for roads with a bad grip -snorkel -strong engine -systems of low gear clutch, differential lock, and any other support for ascends and descends
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Someone says it’s not a super jeep unless it has tires smaller than 40”. Well, he may be right because there’s no definition of what super jeep is, so anyone may create his own 🙂
For our highlands trip, we rented a raised Toyota Landcruiser with 33” tires, special Cooper Discoverer tires for highlands roads, snorkel, and obviously 4×4 with the systems of low gear clutch and differential lock. I already consider this car to be kind of a super jeep, thanks to all its features.
Some of the most typical “super jeeps” are Land Rover Defender and Super Defender models and then endless variants of raised Toyota Hiluxes, Land Cruisers, Mitsubishi Pajeros, Ford Excursions, etc., etc. You can also observe raised Suzuki Jimneys, various Mercedes models, and so on. There are many types of vehicles that may be modified to “become super jeeps,” and it’s a pretty costly process.
Do you need a super jeep?
The Google article isn’t entirely wrong. Most of the Icelandic visitors don’t need any super jeep. It’s all about WHERE you plan to go and WHEN you want to go there.
If you plan to drive the ring road only (and places really close to it), renting a super jeep would be a waste of money. More so, if you are in Iceland for 3-4 days going only to the Golden Circle and some well-known touristy places. These are the cases when it doesn’t make sense at all to rent a super jeep.
If you plan to go to Landmannalaugar, and/or Askja, and/or Kerlingarfjoll in summer – all of these are pretty much “accessible” parts of the highlands. Yes, a super jeep may help you get there with more ease, but it would once again be useless most of the time.
On the other hand, if you want to explore remote places without tourists – Icelandic highlands – this is where you really need a super jeep (or an experienced guide). To get there SAFELY and RELIABLY, you will need a super jeep to get to:
Some may argue – “But I drove F210 in Dacia Duster and it was fine!” – well, good for you man 🙂 It’s surely possible in good weather – but it doesn’t give you any certainty and puts you at huge risk. You may get stuck somewhere in the middle of the river and pay 10 000+ Eur for towing and repairs. Not to mention – there were even cases where tourists died driving F-roads in Dusters. Driving one of the most difficult F-roads in the Duster/Forester/Jimney or whatever the small 4×4 is simply irresponsible.
So, do you need a super jeep in Iceland? For many places no and for many places yes. Choose based on where you want to go!
Where to rent a super jeep?
It actually isn’t so easy to rent a super jeep in Iceland.
Firstly, not many companies will rent you a super jeep. The reason is, it’s very expensive to maintain a super jeep, to insure it, and to let tourists ruin it.
Secondly, it’s pretty expensive to rent a super jeep, due to the reasons mentioned above.
Thirdly, since we’re talking about a lot of money – you need a RELIABLE super jeep car rental. There were some companies in the past which rented cheap super jeeps and both – the customers and the companies – usually ended up badly. Flat tires, broken cars, big repair bills, bankrupt companies – these all can happen with unreliable rental companies. Trust me, you don’t want to experience these!
Thanks to all of the things mentioned above, it’s pretty easy to get together the list of all reliable super jeep rental companies in Iceland.
MyCar
MyCar is a Toyota-licensed car rental company with an exclusive network of all Toyota repair shops all around Iceland. They rent exclusively Toyota cars. The biggest cars in their portfolio include Hilux, Land Cruiser, and raised Land Cruiser.
Exclusive 5% discount on all MyCar rentals with the promo code: EPICICELAND
Our favorite option with MyCar is a raised Toyota Landcruiser with 33” tires, special Cooper Discoverer tires for highlands roads, snorkel, and obviously 4×4 with the systems of low gear clutch and differential lock. I already consider this car to be kind of a super jeep, thanks to all its features. Yes, the tires could be a bit bigger, but otherwise, the car is a beast and it’s very well capable to serve you for almost all parts of Icelandic highlands.
F261 near Markarfljotsgljufur canyon
We rented a raised Land Cruiser with MyCar for our 18-day long highlands trip and were more than just satisfied. We drove more than 5000 kilometers during this trip and didn’t have a single issue with the car! No flat tire, no engine problems, no door problems, never got stuck, always able to drive through all kinds of terrain. This car was a beast. Not to mention – the typical travelers always gave us these envious looks when we were getting out of this beauty :))
Moreover, MyCar is a professional and reliable company with a long history. They give you their Toyota quality guarantee. MyCar has also wonderful reviews all over the internet. For us, this was a hidden gem among Icelandic car rental companies.
MyCar also offers its own insurance packages. However, we would recommend going only for the basic insurance package and buying the full insurance with RentalCover, which ends up being cheaper and with better insurance coverage. Feel free to read more on how car rental insurance works in Iceland and how to choose the best car rental insurance.
Isak 4×4
Isak car rental is a well-known superjeep car rental company with a 15-year long history. It specializes in renting Land Rover Defenders and Super Defenders. It also offers an older but raised Toyota Land Cruiser with the option of having a rooftop tent.
Exclusive 10% discount on all Isak 4×4 rentals with the promo code: epiciceland
Isak is a great company that I can only recommend. It can have some pretty good price deals, and it also offers some really bigger cars. All of the cars offered by Isak are very much suitable for almost all Icelandic F-roads and dirt tracks.
Isak flagship super jeep – Land Rover Super Defender
Isak also offers its own insurance packages. However, we would recommend going only for the basic insurance package and buying the full insurance with RentalCover, which ends up being cheaper and with better insurance coverage. Feel free to read more on how car rental insurance works in Iceland and how to choose the best car rental insurance.
Ice Rovers
Ice-Rovers Land Rover
The third on the list of reliable Icelandic superjeep car rental companies is Ice Rovers. As the name suggests, they specialize exclusively in renting Land Rover Defenders only. Ice-Rovers have a 25-year-long history. Their cars are well maintained and reliable as well as the company itself, but more expensive compared to both MyCar and Isak. All of Ice Rover’s superjeeps are very capable of driving most of the Icelandic F-roads and dirt tracks.
Exclusive 3% discount on all Ice-Rovers rentals: email ask for “3% Epic Iceland discount”.
Ice Rovers also offer their own insurance packages. However, we would recommend going only for the basic insurance package and buying the full insurance with RentalCover, which ends up being cheaper and with better insurance coverage. Feel free to read more on how car rental insurance works in Iceland and how to choose the best car rental insurance.
Geysir Car Rental
Geysir car rental is an interesting alternative to the three flagship super jeep companies mentioned above. Why? Because Geysir is renting some pretty unique super jeep models no other company in Iceland rents these days. Namely – a 35″ modified Land Cruiser with snorkel (see picture below) and a Jeep Wrangler with a rooftop tent. We are not aware of anyone else renting these pieces.
Unique 5% discount on all Geysir car rental cars with the promo code: EPICICELAND.
Other than the two unique models mentioned above, Geysir also rents two classics. The first of them is Land Rover Super Defenderwith a snorkel on 33″ tires. The second one is the classical Jeep Wrangler Rubicon. All these cars are very good even for difficult F-roads. That’s why we decided to include Geysir in our list.
The biggest super jeep by Geysir – 35″ Land Cruiser with snorkel
Geysir car rental also offers its own insurance packages. However, we would recommend going only for the basic insurance package and buying the full insurance with RentalCover, which ends up being cheaper and with better insurance coverage. Feel free to read more on how car rental insurance works in Iceland and how to choose the best car rental insurance.
Lotus
Lotus has only very recently joined the exclusive club of super jeep rental companies in Iceland. They introduced a fresh addition to their fleet with a modified 35″ Toyota Land Cruiser with a snorkel. As we already mentioned several times in this article – a modified Land Cruiser with a snorkel is one of the best jeeps you can possibly rent in Iceland! You will make no mistake with it, and it will take you almost anywhere.
Super Jeep Land Cruiser by Lotus
Now, don’t forget that Lotus is the only car rental company in Iceland that offers car insurance covering absolutely everything! The insurance, as the only one, also covers river crossings and undercarriage, making it a unicorn among all insurance options. To sum it up, with Lotus, you may now get the best jeep available and have it fully insured for all F-roads!
Exclusive 5% discount on all Lotus cars with the promo code: epicicelandd5
There’s just one caveat. Yes, you suspected it correctly. It’s the price tag. Having the best car with the best insurance on the market unsurprisingly turns out to also be the most expensive option.
The best price to value super jeep rental
If we had to pick just one “super jeep” rental company, it would be MyCar. Their raised Land Cruiser with a snorkel is our favorite. It’s still not so super expensive as super jeeps from the other companies and yet it is pretty sufficient for almost all F-roads and dirt tracks in Iceland. You can get a 5% discount for MyCar with code: EPICICELAND
MyCar raised Land Cruiser
Very comparable to MyCar is also Isak 4×4 with a wider choice of super jeeps (not just Land Cruiser) and similar pricing. You can get a 10% discount for Isak 4×4 with code: epiciceland. With the other companies, you will get a slightly bigger car but also for a bigger price.
Biggest super jeep
If your goal is the biggest superjeep and you don’t care about money at all – then go for Land Rover Super Defender by Isak. You can have a 10% discount on all cars with the code: epiciceland
Big super jeep + less expensive
If your goal is the biggest superjeep but you do have some money limits (but not too tight), then go for Geysir car rental and their modified 35″ Land Cruiser (5% discount code: EPICICELAND). Or go for modified Land Rovers by Ice Rovers (3% “Epic Iceland” email discount).
Me crossing the bigger Hólmsá river by MyCar’s modified Land Cruiser on F210 near Maelifell
Best super jeep insurance
The only company offering insurance that ultimately covers EVERYTHING, including river crossings and water damage is Lotus car rental (5% discount code: epicicelandd5). Combine this with their newly added 35″ Land Cruiser and you’ll get an unbeatable option! And also a pricy one.
Best value super jeep
If your goal is the best price to value super jeep for Icelandic roads, then go for MyCar with their raised Land Cruiser. 5% discount code: EPICICELAND
Thorsmork is an unbelievably beautiful, one-in-the-world valley located in the southern Highlands of Iceland, near the ring road close to Seljalandsfoss. It is pretty hard to access, mainly due to treacherous river crossings, which need to be managed very very cautiously and with respect.
Þórsmörk. The “Valley of Thor” has been high on our list of to-visit places since our first ring road trip to Iceland. Why? Because it’s amazingly beautiful and it’s still one of the places which are not crowded yet. The reason behind that is pretty straightforward – it’s accessibility. The road F249 leading there contains several river crossings which get bigger and bigger as the road progresses and eventually end with the biggest one – the Krossá river.
Stakkholtsgjá canyon Þórsmörk
Some say “never go to Thorsmork with a rental car!” or “go to Thorsmork only with a guide!”. While I mostly agree, this is still too much of a generalization. I would rather say: Don’t drive to Thorsmork if you are not WELL PREPARED. What does well prepared mean? You should go in the right season, during the right weather, drive the proper car, study the roads in advance, study the river crossings in advance and on-site.
If this is too much effort for you, then don’t go to Thorsmork with a rental car! For those willing to put up this extra effort, we wrote this guide on visiting Thorsmork.
We had a base near Hella and were choosing where to go on our first day mostly based on the weather. As the weather looked nice all around the south, the choice was tough. After some thinking, we chose Thorsmork, because you really need a nice day to visit it. Our Icelandic friends had also told us that the water level in the rivers was pretty low these days, which encouraged us to try getting near the Langidalur campsite of the Thorsmork valley.
F249, a dangerous road to Thorsmork, due to its river crossings.
We had left our accommodation at 9 AM and headed towards Seljalandsfoss, where a detour towards Thorsmork lies – roads 249 and F249. Our ultimate destination for the day was the Langidalur campsite. We didn’t want to go directly there though, because this would involve crossing the Krossá river. However, it was still possible to avoid Krossá by leaving the car just a few meters away from the crossing and continuing by a footbridge. I also planned for several nice stops along the road, the first of them accessible even with a 2wd car.
Road 249 and the following F249 are gravel roads without any steep sections and without potholes, which is pretty good, given the roads are F-roads. The only quality issue with the roads (not talking about river crossings) is the big gravel. This means you have to drive really slowly to not damage your car and the journey will be bumpy anyway. The biggest caveat of F249 are river crossings, though.
Nauthusagil waterfall
Soon we arrived at the first stop of our trip – Nauthusagil canyon and waterfall. For us, Nauthusagil was one of the most magical places we’ve seen around Iceland. The place is still remote and not that much visited, despite its remarkableness. One way trip to Nauthusagil takes about 20 minutes.
Nauthuságil waterfall “parking” 🙂
The waterfall and the canyon are accessible even by a 2wd car because they still lie next to 249 road only. We left our car at the small car park, where at the time of our visit 3 other cars stood. At that moment, the sun had already started to shine in between the clouds, only confirming our view that this should be a very nice day for visiting Thorsmork.
After parking the car, we followed the paved path along the small stream heading towards (not yet to be seen) the hidden Nauthusagil canyon. The path is easy to follow and it’s almost impossible to get lost since there’s only one way. The path soon gets narrower and changes into the hop-on-the-stones route. The rest of the way is basically walking and jumping on the various types and sizes of stones and boulders in the little water stream.
Nauthusagil waterfall trail
Only walking the entire path is a truly magical experience. We felt like in a fairy tale. This was even underscored by the fact that we hadn’t met a single person yet at that time. The gorge is really beautiful and not that long. Soon you will reach the point where some tend to stop and turn, however that is a huge mistake in our opinion 🙂
If you want to get directly to the Nauthusagil waterfall, you have to climb 2-3 meters of boulders with a help of a vertical chain. Some find this spot intimidating, but even my wife who is afraid of all types of chains during hikes was able to make it with some help. It’s not the place for people with any movement problems, though.
Nauthusagil waterfall chains
The most beautiful part of this little hike comes right in the end. We reached the source of all this water – the Nauthusagil waterfall. And it quickly became one of our favorite Icelandic waterfalls at all. We were also lucky enough to be there completely alone. Moreover, the sun played its beam game by shining through the cracks from above making it an even more stunning experience. One of the top places in Iceland.
Magnificient Nauthusagil itself
My advice for Nauthusagil would be simple – go for it as soon as you can – before it becomes as crowded as many other Icelandic spots!
Gigjokull glacier
After leaving Nauthusagil canyon, road 249 soon changes into F249, which means the first river crossings are coming. The tour companies making trips to Thorsmork usually also stop next to the Gigjokull glacier. This is the glacier tongue pretty well visible on your right when coming from Seljalandsfoss direction. If I had to say how is it different from any other Icelandic glaciers – I’m not sure – maybe because of its steepness. Otherwise, it’s a classical blue-white-black color combination of ice-snow-ash when it comes to Icelandic glaciers.
The road to Gígjökull is a detour from 249 to the right towards the mountains. After driving for a few minutes, we reached the pretty fast-flowing river. The river looked like you definitely don’t want to wade into it by feet – which is also a good rule of thumb whether to try to ford it by car or not. If you are afraid to try it by feet, it’s probably too dangerous to drive through it as well. Hence, we decided to turn back. Looking back at the situation, I think our car was pretty much capable of doing that crossing, but never mind – better choose the safer option than to risk wrecking your car if feeling unsure.
Gígjökull glacier and river crossings
Beware, the Gígjökull tracks we drove are just dirt tracks. Not even F-roads. This means they are even harder to drive than F-roads. Always check with your rental company if it allows for such roads, choose your car wisely and study the roads in advance. Mostly only super jeeps are allowed to drive the dirt tracks.
I had studied before there’s also another road leading to Gígjökull – if you continue a few hundred meters further via F249 there’s yet another detour to the right. And yes, we tried even this route. But firstly, you have to cross the first “bigger river” near the Lónið lagoon. This was a first crossing that looked scary. Firstly, the river was flowing really fast, which is a thing you generally want to avoid. Secondly, we were not able to assess what the depth of the river actually was, because the current was dirty and we couldn’t see through to the bottom.
First scarier river crossing on F249 next to Lónið lagoon
Since trying to “randomly cross” is usually not a good option, I decided to put on my wading socks and get into the river myself. Although the current was strong as expected, the river was pretty shallow. Thus, I decided “it’s time to cross”. The crossing, although bumpy, was otherwise smooth and we safely made it to the other bank. Then we turned on the road to Gigjokull glacier, making it our second attempt to reach it.
Once again, we soon arrived at the fast-flowing river and the little hill leading down to the crossing was in a very bad condition with huge holes, stones, and sharp boulders all over the road. At that point, we already had a pretty nice view of the Gigjokull glacier (and didn’t want to waste the whole day for the glacier) so we decided to turn back and rather enjoy our next stops.
Me wading river Lónið at F249 in Thorsmork
We were heading towards Stakkholtsgja (see below) and on the way there, another major obstacle has been waiting for us. The crossing of the Steinsholtsá river may often be classified as bigger. We arrived at Steinsholtsa with big respect and were ready to turn back in any case if feeling unsure. We were lucky that at the time of our visit 1) water levels were generally low due to the dry period, 2) our friend reassured us this day was good to cross, 3) we could observe a car crossing right in front of us.
We wrote much more about river crossing tips, techniques and warnings here, though. Having almost ideal conditions for crossing, we decided to move forward and were able to finish the Steinsholtsa crossing without bigger problems.
Stakkholtsgja canyon
Our next stop was another supposedly-beautiful and not that much visited place – Stakkholtsgja canyon. We arrived at the improvised gravel car park – which can be found thanks to the sign “Stakkholtsgja” (or thanks to cars parking there ;)) We parked our car next to huge modified Land Cruisers with 40”+ tires, making our car look like a small one. I guess this time of the year these huge superjeeps were just overkill because the roads were passable even with a smaller car. But I’m also pretty sure that at many other times these beautiful ones do come pretty handy.
Stakkholtsgja canyon is a stunning ravine carved in between huge rock formations on the sides. The trail towards the end of the ravine (which ends up being surprisingly amazing) is an easy walk that takes around 40 minutes one way if you know the trail. If you don’t know the trail – as was our case – add around 30 minutes for figuring out how to ford the Stakkholtsgja river by feet 🙂
Stakkholstgjá canyon beginning of the trail
Stakkholtsgja ravine trail
Stakkholtsgja canyon hike is an unmarked hike where you again can’t get lost easily because it leads in between the two bigger hills. In the beginning, the path is a well-trodden mud path, which then turns into a gravel road leading along the river stream. Once again, only walking this path is an amazing experience, where you’re basically strolling through the base of this magnificent canyon. It definitely belongs to one of our favorite Icelandic canyons, easily surpassing e.g. Fjadrargljufur canyon (mainly due to being roughly a thousand times less touristy).
Stakkholstgja canyon trail
After 20 minutes of walking, we arrived at the river which was crossing the path. We met there the group of tourists who were trying to figure out the same as us – how to ford the river without getting wet? This was the question of the day 🙂 For about 20 minutes we desperately searched for a suitable place to ford – without success. The group we met probably made the same conclusion because they got their shoes off and crossed barefoot. This definitely didn’t look like a pleasant experience, not that much because of the cold water but mostly because of the uneven, rocky riverbed.
Fording Stakkholtsgjá
At that point, we looked at our trail map and realized we are already pretty close to the end of the trail, so we wanted to turn back – or more precisely, my wife wanted to 🙂 I didn’t want to give up that easily and persuaded my wife to keep searching for the way to cross. And actually, she was the one who found the proper way soon after our little argument. We crossed the river at its left part, some 100 meters before the river turns right (and crosses the trail). The crossing meant jumping several times from stone to stone and from mud to mud. We successfully didn’t get wet though and didn’t have to ford the river barefoot.
As much as I would love to describe the exact spot where we forded, I’m unable to do so. We didn’t take any footage while holding our hands and jumping from stone to stone. We may reassure you, though, it should be possible even without getting wet 🙂 Just search for the right spot.
Stakkholstgja river fording
After the ford, we continued hiking at the left part of the canyon reaching the final part of this little hike completely from the left (opposite to our first attempt from the right). At that point, we eventually met the group we had met before, that had just finished their barefoot ford. We continued towards the end of the trail (which was located pretty close by). At that moment we realized what a good decision it was not to turn back. We arrived at the end of the canyon which is a huge stony gorge and you may hike it all the way up through the big boulders!
Stakkholstgja ravine waterfall
Rewarding End
This is exactly what we did and didn’t regret doing it at all. It’s a place somewhat similar to Nauthusagil ravine but much much bigger and still somewhat different. I definitely do recommend making the extra effort to get there to be able to admire this beauty. Surroundings like from a different world.
Stakkholstgja ravine with its “secret” endpoint
When coming back from the endpoint of the Stakkholtsja hike, we again struggled a little bit to find the best spot to ford the river, but after a few minutes, we again managed to cross the river without getting wet. Back at the car park, we saw a couple with a guide apparently on a “private tour”. They just went out of the car, looked at the canyon from the distance, and headed back. What a pity they weren’t advised to continue towards the end of the gorge…
F249 river crossings
We already mentioned two major river crossings in the text above – Lónið lagoon river crossing and Steinsholstá river crossing. The Steinsholtsa river is notoriously known for getting some tourist cars drowned regularly. You really ideally need to do all of the following: 1) ask locals for conditions, 2) look at the weather forecast, 3) have a proper car, 4) have already some experience with river crossings, 5) check for conditions onsite, ideally by wading the river yourself by feet or watching someone cross before you. Read more on river crossing rules and techniques on our blog.
On our way to Langidalur campsite (towards Valahnjukur hike), there were 3 more major river crossings. The first of them was the Stakkholstgjá river, the second crossing was the Hvanná river and the third one was the famous Krossá river. We did the first two crossings (Stakkholtsgja and Hvanna) in our car and definitely wanted to avoid Krossá as it is too dangerous. We highly recommend you avoid it as well.
Crossing Steinsholtsá river on F249
F249 river crossings of Stakkholstgjá and Hvanná were very similar to the Steinsholtsá crossing we described above. We were lucky with having almost perfect conditions of low water levels, i.e. shallow rivers and even some drivers crossing right before us, so we didn’t even have to wade these two rivers by feet. However, oftentimes the conditions are much worse! That being said, if you are unsure, better try fording by feet / or wait for someone else to cross first. And if still feeling unsure, better always turn back!
Valahnjukur hike
As a next activity, I wanted to do a hike which would give us a nice view from above the entire Thorsmork area. I studied beforehand all of the hikes available around the area (and there are many of them) and finally opted for probably the shortest one. Not because we couldn’t do a longer one, but because the Valahnjukur hike seemed to be the best in terms of view/difficulty ratio. And it was 🙂
Valahnjukur hiking trail
Thorsmork hiking trails
Thorsmork is a hiker’s paradise. Here is the map of all Thorsmork hiking trails (or at least most of them). If you are into hiking, you may easily spend here a week and still not be able to hike every trail. That being said, the area has a similar “nature shape” around all of the hikes. This means if you choose just one good hike during the good weather (no rain and good visibility) it will give you a very good overview of the area. And any other hike will be pretty similar in terms of views and surroundings.
Thorsmork hiking trails map
On the next day, I did a Fimmvorduhals hike, which actually was much higher in terms of peak height compared to Valahnjukur. But the view over the Thorsmork valley still wasn’t as good as from Valahnjukur – so the height isn’t everything, also the location is.
Crossing Krossá
An ideal start point for the Valahnjukur hike is the Langidalur campsite, which is located right next to it. How to get to the Langidalur campsite? To get to Langidalur, you need to cross the Krossá river. We definitely didn’t want to do this in the car, even when the water levels were pretty low and we had a big car. Krossá is notoriously known to be one of the most dangerous river crossings in Iceland, due to its strong current, uneven riverbed, and deep water levels.
So what if you don’t want to ford Krossá by car? Well, you can either take the bus (as we mentioned in our Thorsmork guide), or call the “Krossa taxi” at Volcano huts (but you need to get closer to Husadalur campsite in this case). Or you may use the footbridge over Krossa – if it’s there – as we did.
Thorsmork Krossá Langidalur footbridge
When are the footbridges in place and when not? They are in place during summer if it is not too dangerous. What does it mean too dangerous? Well, mostly high water levels and/or bad weather. Yes, that water level can even reach the footbridge – in that case, the footbridge is removed by rangers and you cannot cross Krossa any other way than by superjeep/bus. Exactly this was the case some 4-5 days after our trip – it rained a lot in the area and the footbridges were removed. And even the Icelandic bus got stuck in Krossa at that time!
However, as I mentioned, at the time of our visit Krossá was calm. We parked the car close to the big green footbridge over Krossá and used the bridge. Please, be sure to park the car in the right spot – i.e. NOT on the road and NOT even on any tracks which you see on the ground. Buses and modified superjeeps use this way, so please don’t get your car in their way to not get yourself fined. Leave your car next to the road on the gravel – use your common sense.
Right after we climbed on the bridge, we spotted an Icelandic bus nearby. We waited to watch it do the Krossá crossing. It’s always admirable to see it being done correctly 🙂 The bus didn’t go exactly where the road led, but rather it made a turn and positioned itself in the direction of the stream. Exactly as you should do it according to the river crossing rules – go down the stream. Even under these very good, dry conditions, we saw how the bus was shaking on an uneven riverbed. We just got a visual confirmation that the decision to not do the crossing on our own was good.
Valahnjukur
Coming back to Valahnjukur – Valahnjukur is a really easy, quick, and very rewarding hike in terms of views all around the Thorsmork valley. You can easily do it with your family or your older relatives. Even in rain, the hike seems to be pretty doable. Just keep an eye on visibility – if it’s foggy, you won’t see anything, I’m sorry. But since Thorsmork is located in between the mountains, all the storms and clouds tend to “break” on them, and the weather in the valley is usually much better compared to all the nearby places (e.g. Fimmvorduhals pass). More about this in our “How to find nice weather in Iceland” article.
A spectacular view from the top of Valahnjukur
Valahnjukur hike is well marked right from the Langidalur campsite, and, again, it’s almost impossible to get lost. It took us around 30 minutes one way to get to the peak, including pauses for photos and view admiration.
We arrived at the peak of Valahnjukur at 4 PM. We were lucky enough to both – be there alone and have beautiful visibility all around the area. This is one of the best short hikes all around Iceland. If you are able to reasonably get here, I definitely do recommend you take it. Views are simply stunning.
Thorsmork Valahnjukur hike
To come back to Langidalur, you may either use the same trail (the quickest option) or take the loop firstly to Husadálur and then back to Langidalur. We went for the first option because there is pretty much nothing special to be seen on the second route.
On our way back to Hella I wanted to make two more stops – Gljufrabui waterfall and Seljavallalaug hot spring (yes, both the really touristy ones, we had not been there yet before and wanted to see them). Anyway, my wife told me she has enough energy for one more stop only, so we compromised on picking Seljavallalaug hot spring.
The water level in the rivers usually tends to be higher in the afternoon/evening due to melting ice. At the time of our visit, however, this wasn’t the case. We already knew from the crossings in the morning that the rivers are pretty shallow, so the crossings weren’t problematic nor time-consuming this time. Please take special care that this is also true in your case – it doesn’t have to be!
Seljavallalaug hot spring
If I said that Nauthusagil, Stakkholtsja, and Valahnjukur were some of the most beautiful places in Iceland, with Seljavallalaug this was not exactly the case. The surroundings of the pool were beautiful – untouched nature all over the place. However, the pool itself was one of the worst of all hot springs in Iceland – dirty, slippery, not very hot, and full of tourists. Still worth visiting, though.
Seljavallalaug hot spring trail
Seljavallalaug is located on private land and to get there you need to walk. You can park your car also on the private land – there are 2 not very big car parks, which, however, weren’t completely full at the time of our visit. We parked the car at the one closer to the pool (but it really doesn’t make any difference, because they are both next to each other). Luckily for visitors, the landowners have not yet started to get money for the parking and visit of the pool. This may change in the future, though.
After parking your car it’s a 30 minutes (one way), non-demanding walk around a nice area. It’s not marked, but it also isn’t hard to follow because a) there’s no other route, b) you will probably meet several fellow tourists on the way there. Exactly as I explained above about the weather in Thorsmork, while Thorsmork was partially sunny at the time of our visit, here at Seljavallalaug the sky was clouded completely and it rained lightly.
Seljavallalaug hot spring
There’s an old changing room at Seljavallalaug (actually 2 rooms, maybe supposed to be for men and women, but people mixed it anyway). As I said above – the pool is big, full of algae, slippery, and with water of a temperature of around 30°C+, which is not that much compared to several other 40°C+ Icelandic hot springs. Nevertheless, many other visitors seemed to enjoy the pool very much anyway. To sum it up, Seljavallalaug was still a nice experience, although we prefer other Icelandic hot springs and pools much more.
Þórsmörk. The “Valley of Thor” has been high on our list of to-visit places in the highlands, since our first ring road trip to Iceland. Why? Because it’s amazingly beautiful and it’s still one of the places which are not crowded yet.
The reason behind that is pretty straightforward – it’s accessibility. The road F249 leading there contains several river crossings which get bigger and bigger as the road progresses and eventually end with the biggest one – the Krossá river.
Thorsmork is an unbelievably gorgeous Highland spot, a one-in-the-world valley located near the ring road close to Seljalandsfoss. It is pretty hard to access, mainly due to treacherous river crossings, which need to be managed very very cautiously and with respect.
Stakkholtsgjá canyon Þórsmörk
Some say “never go to Thorsmork with a rental car!” or “go to Thorsmork only with a guide!”. While I mostly agree, this is still too much of a generalization. I would rather say: Don’t drive to Thorsmork if you are not WELL PREPARED. What does well prepared mean? You should go in the right season, during the right weather, drive the proper car, study the roads in advance, study the river crossings in advance and on-site.
If this is too much effort for you, then don’t go to Thorsmork with a rental car! For those willing to put up this extra effort, we wrote this guide on visiting Thorsmork.
The safest, most convenient (and most expensive) option to reach Thorsmork is to take the guided tour. Another safe and convenient option is to take the highland bus (10% discount code: in our newsletter). The biggest disadvantage of the bus, however, is that it will take you only to the final destination and not stop at the picturesque stops along the road. The option we chose was to drive to Thorsmork by car. This is definitely the most adventurous, the most time-consuming (you need to plan and prepare well), and naturally the least safe option. But still manageable if done correctly, with planning, with respect, and with previous experience.
If you plan to drive to Thorsmork yourself, you firstly need to choose a favorable time to do so (see below). Then, it is of the uttermost importance to choose the very good car capable of getting there. For Thorsmork this usually means Toyota Landcruiser AND bigger (31”+ tires), ideally with a snorkel. However, it’s not that simple. We wrote a detailed guide on how to choose the proper car and not forget anything. “Can we drive there in 4×4 Dacia Duster?” You may try. Some people succeeded, some wrecked their cars in rivers paying 10 000s Euros bills for that. Your decision. We don’t recommend that.
Toyota Land Cruiser in Thorsmork with Gigjokull glacier in the background
Last but not least, even with a proper car and during the proper time – you HAVE TO ford the rivers correctly. What does it mean correctly? At the right spot, at the right speed, from the right direction. And more. We wrote a detailed guide on river crossings, please read it if you plan to do them. Some examples that the car is not everything – just look at this 40” superjeep stuck in Krossá (our friend afterward crossed it with a much smaller car, because he chose the better crossing spot).
When to go to Thorsmork
Firstly, when the road F249 is open and serviced – i.e. only during the summer. Is that all? No, not at all. Secondly, the water level in the rivers should be favorable, i.e. as low as possible. How are you supposed to know what is the water level like right now? Well, that’s a good question without an easy and straightforward answer. To simplify it the most – ask someone local, check on road.is for warnings and always check on sight – ideally by wading the river firstly by walking into it yourself.
Thirdly, preferably only during good weather – no heavy rain, good visibility, no strong winds. Fourthly, none of the above would be sufficient if you don’t have a proper car and also if you don’t cross with proper technique.
There are many guided tours to Þórsmörk, but if we had to pick just one, it would be Midgard Adventure. Why Midgard and why not someone else? Well, firstly, they are a small Icelandic family company with funny and caring guides always willing to go the extra mile. On top of that, they have excellent reviews, and small groups and will always surprise you with something new!
Due to the reasons above, we decided to partner with Midgard Adventure, and we can offer our readers a 10% discount code:EPICICELAND10 on their best and most popular tours.
We had a base near Hella and were choosing where to go on our first day mostly based on the weather. As the weather looked nice all around the south, the choice was tough. After some thinking, we chose Thorsmork, because you really need a nice day to visit it. Our Icelandic friends had also told us that the water level in the rivers was pretty low these days, which encouraged us to try getting near the Langidalur campsite of the Thorsmork valley.
F249, a dangerous road to Thorsmork, due to its river crossings.
We had left our accommodation at 9 AM and headed towards Seljalandsfoss, where a detour towards Thorsmork lies – roads 249 and F249. Our ultimate destination for the day was the Langidalur campsite. We didn’t want to go directly there though, because this would involve crossing the Krossá river. However, it was still possible to avoid Krossá by leaving the car just a few meters away from the crossing and continuing by a footbridge. I also planned for several nice stops along the road, the first of them accessible even with a 2wd car.
Road 249 and the following F249 are gravel roads without any steep sections and without potholes, which is pretty good, given the roads are F-roads. The only quality issue with the roads (not talking about river crossings) is the big gravel. This means you have to drive really slowly to not damage your car and the journey will be bumpy anyway. The biggest caveat of F249 are river crossings, though.
Nauthusagil waterfall
Soon we arrived at the first stop of our trip – Nauthusagil canyon and waterfall. For us, Nauthusagil was one of the most magical places we’ve seen around Iceland. The place is still remote and not that much visited, despite its remarkableness. One way trip to Nauthusagil takes about 20 minutes.
Nauthuságil waterfall “parking” 🙂
The waterfall and the canyon are accessible even by a 2wd car because they still lie next to 249 road only. We left our car at the small car park, where at the time of our visit 3 other cars stood. At that moment, the sun had already started to shine in between the clouds, only confirming our view that this should be a very nice day for visiting Thorsmork.
After parking the car, we followed the paved path along the small stream heading towards (not yet to be seen) the hidden Nauthusagil canyon. The path is easy to follow and it’s almost impossible to get lost since there’s only one way. The path soon gets narrower and changes into the hop-on-the-stones route. The rest of the way is basically walking and jumping on the various types and sizes of stones and boulders in the little water stream.
Nauthusagil waterfall trail
Only walking the entire path is a truly magical experience. We felt like in a fairy tale. This was even underscored by the fact that we hadn’t met a single person yet at that time. The gorge is really beautiful and not that long. Soon you will reach the point where some tend to stop and turn, however that is a huge mistake in our opinion 🙂
If you want to get directly to the Nauthusagil waterfall, you have to climb 2-3 meters of boulders with a help of a vertical chain. Some find this spot intimidating, but even my wife who is afraid of all types of chains during hikes was able to make it with some help. It’s not the place for people with any movement problems, though.
Nauthusagil waterfall chains
The most beautiful part of this little hike comes right in the end. We reached the source of all this water – the Nauthusagil waterfall. And it quickly became one of our favorite Icelandic waterfalls at all. We were also lucky enough to be there completely alone. Moreover, the sun played its beam game by shining through the cracks from above making it an even more stunning experience. One of the top places in Iceland.
Magnificient Nauthusagil itself
My advice for Nauthusagil would be simple – go for it as soon as you can – before it becomes as crowded as many other Icelandic spots!
Gigjokull glacier
After leaving Nauthusagil canyon, road 249 soon changes into F249, which means the first river crossings are coming. The tour companies making trips to Thorsmork usually also stop next to the Gigjokull glacier. This is the glacier tongue pretty well visible on your right when coming from Seljalandsfoss direction. If I had to say how is it different from any other Icelandic glaciers – I’m not sure – maybe because of its steepness. Otherwise, it’s a classical blue-white-black color combination of ice-snow-ash when it comes to Icelandic glaciers.
The road to Gigjokull is a detour from 249 to the right towards the mountains. After driving for a few minutes, we reached the pretty fast-flowing river. The river looked like you definitely don’t want to wade into it by feet – which is also a good rule of thumb whether to try to ford it by car or not. If you are afraid to try it by feet, it’s probably too dangerous to drive through it as well. Hence, we decided to turn back. Looking back at the situation, I think our car was pretty much capable of doing that crossing, but never mind – better choose the safer option than to risk wrecking your car if feeling unsure.
Gígjökull glacier and river crossings
Beware, the Gígjökull tracks we drove are just dirt tracks. Not even F-roads. This means they are even harder to drive than F-roads. Always check with your rental company if it allows for such roads, choose your car wisely and study the roads in advance. Mostly only super jeeps are allowed to drive the dirt tracks.
I had studied before there’s also another road leading to Gigjokull – if you continue a few hundred meters further via F249 there’s yet another detour to the right. And yes, we tried even this route. But firstly, you have to cross the first “bigger river” near the Lónið lagoon. This was a first crossing that looked scary. Firstly, the river was flowing really fast, which is a thing you generally want to avoid. Secondly, we were not able to assess what the depth of the river actually was, because the current was dirty and we couldn’t see through to the bottom.
First scarier river crossing on F249 next to Lónið lagoon
Since trying to “randomly cross” is usually not a good option, I decided to put on my wading socks and get into the river myself. Although the current was strong as expected, the river was pretty shallow. Thus, I decided “it’s time to cross”. The crossing, although bumpy, was otherwise smooth and we safely made it to the other bank. Then we turned on the road to Gigjokull glacier, making it our second attempt to reach it.
Once again, we soon arrived at the fast-flowing river and the little hill leading down to the crossing was in a very bad condition with huge holes, stones, and sharp boulders all over the road. At that point, we already had a pretty nice view of the Gigjokull glacier (and didn’t want to waste the whole day for the glacier) so we decided to turn back and rather enjoy our next stops.
Me wading river Lónið at F249 in Thorsmork
We were heading towards Stakkholtsgja (see below) and on the way there, another major obstacle has been waiting for us. The crossing of the Steinsholtsá river may often be classified as bigger. We arrived at Steinsholtsa with big respect and were ready to turn back in any case if feeling unsure. We were lucky that at the time of our visit 1) water levels were generally low due to the dry period, 2) our friend reassured us this day was good to cross, 3) we could observe a car crossing right in front of us.
We wrote much more about river crossing tips, techniques and warnings here, though. Having almost ideal conditions for crossing, we decided to move forward and were able to finish the Steinsholtsa crossing without bigger problems.
Stakkholtsgja canyon
Our next stop was another supposedly-beautiful and not that much visited place – Stakkholtsgja canyon. We arrived at the improvised gravel car park – which can be found thanks to the sign “Stakkholtsgja” (or thanks to cars parking there ;)) We parked our car next to huge modified Land Cruisers with 40”+ tires, making our car look like a small one. I guess this time of the year these huge superjeeps were just overkill because the roads were passable even with a smaller car. But I’m also pretty sure that at many other times these beautiful ones do come pretty handy.
Stakkholtsgja canyon is a stunning ravine carved in between huge rock formations on the sides. The trail towards the end of the ravine (which ends up being surprisingly amazing) is an easy walk that takes around 40 minutes one way if you know the trail. If you don’t know the trail – as was our case – add around 30 minutes for figuring out how to ford the Stakkholtsgja river by feet 🙂
Stakkholstgjá canyon beginning of the trail
Stakkholtsgja ravine trail
Stakkholtsgja canyon hike is an unmarked hike where you again can’t get lost easily because it leads in between the two bigger hills. In the beginning, the path is a well-trodden mud path, which then turns into a gravel road leading along the river stream. Once again, only walking this path is an amazing experience, where you’re basically strolling through the base of this magnificent canyon. It definitely belongs to one of our favorite Icelandic canyons, easily surpassing e.g. Fjadrargljufur canyon (mainly due to being roughly a thousand times less touristy).
Stakkholstgja canyon trail
After 20 minutes of walking, we arrived at the river which was crossing the path. We met there the group of tourists who were trying to figure out the same as us – how to ford the river without getting wet? This was the question of the day 🙂 For about 20 minutes we desperately searched for a suitable place to ford – without success. The group we met probably made the same conclusion because they got their shoes off and crossed barefoot. This definitely didn’t look like a pleasant experience, not that much because of the cold water but mostly because of the uneven, rocky riverbed.
Fording Stakkholtsgjá
At that point, we looked at our trail map and realized we are already pretty close to the end of the trail, so we wanted to turn back – or more precisely, my wife wanted to 🙂 I didn’t want to give up that easily and persuaded my wife to keep searching for the way to cross. And actually, she was the one who found the proper way soon after our little argument. We crossed the river at its left part, some 100 meters before the river turns right (and crosses the trail). The crossing meant jumping several times from stone to stone and from mud to mud. We successfully didn’t get wet though and didn’t have to ford the river barefoot.
As much as I would love to describe the exact spot where we forded, I’m unable to do so. We didn’t take any footage while holding our hands and jumping from stone to stone. We may reassure you, though, it should be possible even without getting wet 🙂 Just search for the right spot.
Stakkholstgja river fording
After the ford, we continued hiking at the left part of the canyon reaching the final part of this little hike completely from the left (opposite to our first attempt from the right). At that point, we eventually met the group we had met before, that had just finished their barefoot ford. We continued towards the end of the trail (which was located pretty close by). At that moment we realized what a good decision it was not to turn back. We arrived at the end of the canyon which is a huge stony gorge and you may hike it all the way up through the big boulders!
Stakkholstgja ravine waterfall
Rewarding End
This is exactly what we did and didn’t regret doing it at all. It’s a place somewhat similar to Nauthusagil ravine but much much bigger and still somewhat different. I definitely do recommend making the extra effort to get there to be able to admire this beauty. Surroundings like from a different world.
Stakkholstgja ravine with its “secret” endpoint
When coming back from the endpoint of the Stakkholtsja hike, we again struggled a little bit to find the best spot to ford the river, but after a few minutes, we again managed to cross the river without getting wet. Back at the car park, we saw a couple with a guide apparently on a “private tour”. They just went out of the car, looked at the canyon from the distance, and headed back. What a pity they weren’t advised to continue towards the end of the gorge…
F249 river crossings
We already mentioned two major river crossings in the text above – Lónið lagoon river crossing and Steinsholstá river crossing. The Steinsholtsa river is notoriously known for getting some tourist cars drowned regularly. You really ideally need to do all of the following: 1) ask locals for conditions, 2) look at the weather forecast, 3) have a proper car, 4) have already some experience with river crossings, 5) check for conditions onsite, ideally by wading the river yourself by feet or watching someone cross before you. Read more on river crossing rules and techniques on our blog.
On our way to Langidalur campsite (towards Valahnjukur hike), there were 3 more major river crossings. The first of them was the Stakkholstgjá river, the second crossing was the Hvanná river and the third one was the famous Krossá river. We did the first two crossings (Stakkholtsgja and Hvanna) in our car and definitely wanted to avoid Krossá as it is too dangerous. We highly recommend you avoid it as well.
Crossing Steinsholtsá river on F249
F249 river crossings of Stakkholstgjá and Hvanná were very similar to the Steinsholtsá crossing we described above. We were lucky with having almost perfect conditions of low water levels, i.e. shallow rivers and even some drivers crossing right before us, so we didn’t even have to wade these two rivers by feet. However, oftentimes the conditions are much worse! That being said, if you are unsure, better try fording by feet / or wait for someone else to cross first. And if still feeling unsure, better always turn back!
Valahnjukur hike
As a next activity, I wanted to do a hike which would give us a nice view from above the entire Thorsmork area. I studied beforehand all of the hikes available around the area (and there are many of them) and finally opted for probably the shortest one. Not because we couldn’t do a longer one, but because the Valahnjukur hike seemed to be the best in terms of view/difficulty ratio. And it was 🙂
Valahnjukur hiking trail
Thorsmork hiking trails
Thorsmork is a hiker’s paradise. Here is the map of all Thorsmork hiking trails (or at least most of them). If you are into hiking, you may easily spend here a week and still not be able to hike every trail. That being said, the area has a similar “nature shape” around all of the hikes. This means if you choose just one good hike during the good weather (no rain and good visibility) it will give you a very good overview of the area. And any other hike will be pretty similar in terms of views and surroundings.
Thorsmork hiking trails map
On the next day, I did a Fimmvorduhals hike, which actually was much higher in terms of peak height compared to Valahnjukur. But the view over the Thorsmork valley still wasn’t as good as from Valahnjukur – so the height isn’t everything, also the location is.
Crossing Krossá
An ideal start point for the Valahnjukur hike is the Langidalur campsite, which is located right next to it. How to get to the Langidalur campsite? To get to Langidalur, you need to cross the Krossá river. We definitely didn’t want to do this in the car, even when the water levels were pretty low and we had a big car. Krossá is notoriously known to be one of the most dangerous river crossings in Iceland, due to its strong current, uneven riverbed, and deep water levels.
So what if you don’t want to ford Krossá by car? Well, you can either take the bus (as we mentioned in the beginning), or call the “Krossa taxi” at Volcano huts (but you need to get closer to Husadalur campsite in this case). Or you may use the footbridge over Krossa – if it’s there – as we did.
Thorsmork Krossá Langidalur footbridge
When are the footbridges in place and when not? They are in place during summer if it is not too dangerous. What does it mean too dangerous? Well, mostly high water levels and/or bad weather. Yes, that water level can even reach the footbridge – in that case, the footbridge is removed by rangers and you cannot cross Krossa any other way than by superjeep/bus. Exactly this was the case some 4-5 days after our trip – it rained a lot in the area and the footbridges were removed. And even the Icelandic bus got stuck in Krossa at that time!
However, as I mentioned, at the time of our visit Krossá was calm. We parked the car close to the big green footbridge over Krossá and used the bridge. Please, be sure to park the car in the right spot – i.e. NOT on the road and NOT even on any tracks which you see on the ground. Buses and modified superjeeps use this way, so please don’t get your car in their way to not get yourself fined. Leave your car next to the road on the gravel – use your common sense.
Right after we climbed on the bridge, we spotted an Icelandic bus nearby. We waited to watch it do the Krossá crossing. It’s always admirable to see it being done correctly 🙂 The bus didn’t go exactly where the road led, but rather it made a turn and positioned itself in the direction of the stream. Exactly as you should do it according to the river crossing rules – go down the stream. Even under these very good, dry conditions, we saw how the bus was shaking on an uneven riverbed. We just got a visual confirmation that the decision to not do the crossing on our own was good.
Valahnjukur
Coming back to Valahnjukur – Valahnjukur is a really easy, quick, and very rewarding hike in terms of views all around the Thorsmork valley. You can easily do it with your family or your older relatives. Even in rain, the hike seems to be pretty doable. Just keep an eye on visibility – if it’s foggy, you won’t see anything, I’m sorry. But since Thorsmork is located in between the mountains, all the storms and clouds tend to “break” on them, and the weather in the valley is usually much better compared to all the nearby places (e.g. Fimmvorduhals pass). More about this in our “How to find nice weather in Iceland” article.
A spectacular view from the top of Valahnjukur
Valahnjukur hike is well marked right from the Langidalur campsite, and, again, it’s almost impossible to get lost. It took us around 30 minutes one way to get to the peak, including pauses for photos and view admiration.
We arrived at the peak of Valahnjukur at 4 PM. We were lucky enough to both – be there alone and have beautiful visibility all around the area. This is one of the best short hikes all around Iceland. If you are able to reasonably get here, I definitely do recommend you take it. Views are simply stunning.
Thorsmork Valahnjukur hike
To come back to Langidalur, you may either use the same trail (the quickest option) or take the loop firstly to Husadálur and then back to Langidalur. We went for the first option because there is pretty much nothing special to be seen on the second route.
On our way back to Hella I wanted to make two more stops – Gljufrabui waterfall and Seljavallalaug hot spring (yes, both the really touristy ones, we had not been there yet before and wanted to see them). Anyway, my wife told me she has enough energy for one more stop only, so we compromised on picking Seljavallalaug hot spring.
The water level in the rivers usually tends to be higher in the afternoon/evening due to melting ice. At the time of our visit, however, this wasn’t the case. We already knew from the crossings in the morning that the rivers are pretty shallow, so the crossings weren’t problematic nor time-consuming this time. Please take special care that this is also true in your case – it doesn’t have to be!
NEW Volcano Eruption 2022 Tours article here: 2022 ERUPTION
……………………………………………………… Seeing an eruption of an active volcano with your own eyes is a once in a lifetime experience. To do it, you have basically two main options – go on your own or take a guided tour. Because an eruption of Fagradalsfjall volcano is still only quite recent, high-quality guided tours are scarce. That’s why we decided to make a short list of the best Fagradalsfjall volcano tours available at the moment.
We will do our best to update the list and broaden this article, and apologize for any discrepancies, which may occur because everything changes really quickly these days.
Fagradalsfjall crowds – image courtesy of Guðni Oddgeirsson
A hike from the closest parking spot takes from 1 to2 hours one way, depending on your physical condition. If you are going on your own, definitely add up some time for finding a parking spot and walking from there to the start of the trail. Also, don’t forget to add a time to enjoy the volcano itself 🙂
Volcano tours – price
As of April 2021, prices range around 400-600 USD per private group, i.e. the more of you the lower the price. If you go solo, i.e. you will be part of a bigger organized tour, do expect a price of around 100 USD per person. Of course, you may find cheaper and more expensive tours. Always check the current price with the provider, as these may change quickly.
Volcano tours – what’s included
A typical volcano tour includes the following:
Reykjavik pickup with a driver
An experienced guide
Free cancellation up to 24 hours before the trip
A typical volcano tour does NOT include the following:
Shoes, clothes or any gear (no special is required, though)
Food, water, snacks
There are exceptions, though, and almost always there is an option to buy or hire anything you need, so don’t be afraid 🙂
Troll expeditions is a renowned Icelandic company with a long history and thousands of 5/5 reviews. They’ve recently added a Fagradalsfjall volcano tour and we really do recommend taking this one!
Guide to Iceland is a huge Icelandic tour company with many good references. They’ve recently added a helicopter Fagradalsfjall volcano tour and based on their reviews we can also recommend you to take this one.
Obviously, a helicopter tour is pricier. BUT. Seeing a volcano from a helicopter is simply once in a lifetime experience 🙂 So you have to decide for yourself whether it’s worth it for you. Don’t take too long though, they sell out quickly.
All conditions and price are clearly stated on their website and you can easily book via their system.
Glaciers and Waterfalls is an amazingly friendly, funny and down-to-earth Super Jeep and Tour company. Not only they have great and passionate guides, they also have wonderful reviews – 5/5 on Google, 5/5 on Tripadvisor and #3 of 342 tour providers in Iceland! They’ve added a Fagradalsfjall volcano tour as one of the first and we really do recommend taking this one! Moreover – it costs less than 100 USD!
Do you want an exclusive private tour with no one else, just you? Glaciers and Waterfalls offer a Geldingadalur volcano private tour as well!
All conditions and prices are clearly stated on their website and you can easily book via their system. And we also have a 10% discount for you! 🙂
Traveo is a smaller, but very friendly and affordable Icelandic tour company. They’ve also recently added a Fagradalsfjall volcano tour.
Their tour is one of the most affordable ones if you travel in a small group of 1 to 3 people. All conditions and price are clearly stated on their website and you can easily book via their system.
Adventures.com is another big Icelandic tour and reseller company. Their references are good, although in specific cases we got some worse feedback on their tours. This may be due to the huge numbers of clients they are serving.
They’ve also recently added a Fagradalsfjall volcano tour and this one seems to be one of the cheapest out there if you plan to go just as a couple. Do expect more crowds / bigger group though, as a cost for a lower price.
2 Go Iceland Travel operates tours since 2012 and was one of the first companies that also added Fagradalsfjall hike to their tour portfolio. If you are looking for a more personalized experience, this may be a choice for you.
All guides are locals and all tours can be booked online. Also reviews for 2 Go Iceland Travel are great. The company focuses on private-tailor made tours and packages in Iceland.
There’s a Spanish nomadic couple that also recently added Fagradalsfjall hike as one of their tours. They have a beautiful website and their approach seems to be very personalized. They don’t have any booking system, so you have to contact them directly.
Although not that well known, Amarok adventures seem to be a legitimate small tour company worth trying.
F-roads are rough, unpaved gravel roads leading to the inner part of Iceland – the highlands. They are sometimes also called highland roads or mountain roads and often involve river crossings.
Good preparation and a proper car are necessary. Driving the F-roads is totally worth it, though, because the Icelandic highlands surrounding them are the most beautiful uncrowded parts of Iceland.
We’ve compiled for you a comprehensive list of all Icelandic F-roads. It’s based upon both personal experiences with driving the roads and extensive studying of other travelers’ experiences.
We’ve spent months driving F-roads in Iceland during several different trips in different cars and under various road conditions. We learned A LOT and have lots of valuable tips, which we share in this guide.
We also wrote a detailed article about Icelandic roads, their types, and passability, which we recommend reading too.
Crossroads between Möðrudalsleið road and F905
Cars for F-roads
A 4wd car is compulsory on all F-roads. There are many types of 4wd cars and also many types of F-roads, though. Driving with a small 4wd car on a difficult F-road is dangerous and, on the other hand, driving with a huge 4×4 car on an easy F-road may be expensive. It’s important to choose your car properly based on which F-roads you plan to drive:
Easy F-roads: small river crossings, normal terrain. Any 4wd car is suitable.
Medium F-roads: medium river crossings, harder terrain. A bigger 4wd car is needed.
And how are you supposed to know which F-road is easy and which is difficult? We wrote a List of the 10 easiest F-roads, and also a detailed description of every F-road just below in this article.
Crossing the (often) treacherous Syðri-Ófæra river on F233 with a big 4wd car with snorkel
Opening dates 2024
F-roads in Iceland usually open once all the snow on the roads melts. This typically happens anywhere between the beginning of June and the end of July. Most of the F-roads tend to open before the main summer season begins, i.e. at the beginning of July. Of course, there are other factors, like river levels, road reconstructions, etc., but the main one is snow. It’s also important to understand the difference between “impassable road”, “closed road” and “no winter service” roads, which we cover in our Icelandic Roads article.
Openings depend on weather and location. The colder the weather, the later the opening. The more snow in the preceding winter, the later the opening. The warmer the spring the sooner the opening. The more the road is located to the center of Iceland (the coldest part of Iceland), the later it opens. Below are the statistics for the past few years. Here are the latest available statistics. For example, in 2022 several roads opened even later than the latest date in the table below (2017-2021 table at that time), due to an extraordinarily strong winter.
F-roads Opening dates
When do F-roads close? Once a road becomes too difficult to pass, for whatever reason – snow, rain, storm. Seasonally, this typically happens sometime between the end of August and mid-October, most frequently in the second half of September, once the first heavy snow arrives in the highlands. No statistics, like the ones above, exist on these.
I will answer this question for all of the roads at once. Google Maps is pretty much quite precise in time estimates,even when it comes to F-roads. That means if you are planning your trip, you may more or less rely on Google time estimates. There are a few caveats though.
Google Maps estimate is an estimate under standard conditions. This usually assumes, for example, normal weather, crossing the rivers immediately, etc. So what are the other things you need to account for other than standard conditions?
Worse weather. This means anything from heavy rain, through a huge fog, to strong wind. Incorporate these into your estimates.
Proper car. You need to drive a 4×4 car on all F-roads. However, 2 different 4×4 cars may be as different as night and day.
Your driving skills. I’ve seen many much slower drivers when driving in Iceland. But I’ve also seen some much quicker. I would say I’m somewhere in the middle then, and I aligned with Google times quite well.
River crossings. If you don’t know the river you are crossing, or if you are just inexperienced, you should take enough time to examine the river.
Tourists. Yes, in high season there may even be a traffic jam on some F-roads. This may slow you down. Or maybe you will be the cause of the traffic jam? 🙂
Pauses. You’re gonna make MANY of them. To eat, to take a picture, to go use the toilet, etc. Calculate with these as well.
F26 – Sprengisandsleið
F26, Sprengisandur, or Sprengisandsleið, are all names of the same road. F26 is one of the longest Icelandic F-roads. It’s one of the only 2 roads which connect southern and northern Iceland directly. The first one is F35, which is much easier to drive compared to the rougher F26. The road is deserted, without any campsites, guesthouses, supermarkets, or even gas stations along the road.
You have to drive 250 kilometers with no possibility to refuel, mostly no cell phone coverage, nor any internet network. That being said, driving F26 is a huge adventure, just better be properly prepared for it. Bring enough water, food, and warm clothes, in case you needed to stop unexpectedly and wait for someone else to pass by and help you.
Yes, there’s one main river crossing on F26, roughly in the middle of the road, right next to Nýidalur hut. The river is called Hagakvisla and it’s pretty unpredictable. Usually, it’s a medium-sized river crossing, but it can get bigger with strong rain and especially the current can get stronger.
We write in detail about the river crossing in our separate article about F26.
What car do I need for F26?
It’s best to drive a large 4×4 like Land Cruiser for F26 due to the unpredictable Hagakvislar river crossing near Nyidalur. In very good conditions, a minimum requirement is a medium-sized 4×4 SUV like Dacia Duster. However, the bigger the car, the better. You will make no mistake when opting for a super-jeep.
F35 has been reclassified to just “35” in recent years, due to road improvements. Still, Google Maps mark it as F35. Another name used for Kjalvegur is Kjölur. These are the synonyms. Icelanders use Kjölur more frequently.
F35 is the second-longest Icelandic F-road. It’s one of the only 2 roads which connect southern and northern Iceland directly. The first one is F26, which is much tougher to drive compared to the easier F35. The road F35 is long and remote, without any campsites, guesthouses, supermarkets, or even gas stations directly along the road.
BUT. You’re gonna meet many fellow travelers along the road. We met many of them even during Covid times. The reason is, there are two main points of interest near F35 – Kerlingarfjoll and Hveravellir. Both of them provide small guesthouses/hotels and restaurants. Just tank enough fuel to complete this approx. 180km route.
Is there a river crossing on F35?
There are no river crossings on F35. That’s one of the reasons why you will meet a lot more traffic on this road compared to F26. It’s also the reason why this road is much easier to drive than F26 or many other F-roads.
F35, aka Kjalvegur, near Hveravellir
What car do I need for F35?
You will be fine with any 4wd car. There are many potholes and small ponds with some water, but otherwise, F35 is easy to drive. It’s just long. I would say road 35/F35 is doable also by a 2wd car in good weather conditions. However, we better recommend taking a smaller/cheaper 4wd car.
F66 is the only road that leads across the central Westfjords and directly connects the northern part of Westfjords with the southern part.
Is there a river crossing on F66?
Yes, there are some small river crossings (more like streams than rivers). Nothing serious though.
What car do I need for F66?
This depends on weather conditions. In normal weather, you will be fine with any 4wd car, even a small SUV. In rainy and windy weather, however, F66 may get really challenging with the muddy ground and wind blowing.
With F66, the main challenge lies not in the river crossings, but in its steepness and terrain. It’s one of the most mountainous roads in Iceland.
F88 is the shortest (and during low water levels the quickest) road to reach Askja, and also a controversial one 🙂 It connects the ring road in the north to F910. Why controversial? Most of the “bloggers” will advise you that F88 is much more dangerous and harder to drive than F905 and F910 combination. But did they actually drive F88? No.
The truth is when water levels of Lindaá river on F88 are high, then yes, F88 is more difficult due to this one particular spot. Otherwise the opposite is the case.
If you are a first-time visitor with little experience in Icelandic river crossings, better take F905 and F910 to avoid assessing whether water levels on F88 are high or not.
Is there a river crossing on F88?
Yes, there is one main river crossing, closer to an intersection with F910 – the Lindaá River. This river is the source of controversion about F88. Usually, this river crossing is medium-sized, but when it rains a lot, it can get bigger and problematic. But under normal summer conditions, the crossing is pretty much the same as those on F905 and F910.
F88 – Öskjuleið to Askja from north
What car do I need for F88?
You will definitely need at least a medium-sized 4×4 car. If you want to be 100% sure to make it through Lindaá river crossing, then better go for a large 4×4 or a super jeep with big ground clearance and a snorkel. It’s also better to gain experience with river crossings on different, less challenging, F-roads and then come back to drive this one. All river crossing rules apply strictly here.
F206 is a rough F-road leading to Laki craters. No, you won’t find this road at its full length on Google Maps. You need to look at more local maps.
Is there a river crossing on F206?
Yes, there are unbridged rivers along F206 and one of them is considered a medium-sized river crossing.
F206 to Laki craters in rain and fog
What car do I need for F206?
There are medium-sized river crossings on F206, hence you need preferably at least a medium-sized 4wd car. “Can we do it in a Suzuki Jimny?”, yes you can try and you may succeed, but you may also not. Jimny is considered to be a small-sized SUV, which, when driven in the right way and in good weather may be enough. It may also not be enough if the opposite is the case.
Lakagigavegur is a rough and bumpy loop road leading around Laki craters. The road is completely isolated, and you need to drive F206 to get there.
Is there a river crossing on F207?
Yes, there are unbridged rivers along F207 and one of them is considered at least a medium-sized river crossing. There are videos over the internet of how tourists drown their cars in F207 (luckily without injuries) so take special care, please.
F207 river crossing (road to Laki craters)
What car do I need for F207?
You need preferably at least a medium-sized 4wd car. The road is very bumpy, and moreover, you have to overcome a medium-sized river crossing at F206 if you want to reach F207.
F207 video drive-through
F208 – Fjallabaksleið Nyrðri – north
F208 North has been reclassified to just “208” in recent years, due to road improvements. Still, Google Maps mark it as F208.
F208 is a long F-road that connects the southern ring road next to Vik with the southern end of F26. I call “north” the part north of Landmannalaugar and “south” the part south of Landmannalaugar. With F208 North vs F208 South, it’s a tale of two roads, which are significantly different from each other. Long story short – F208 North is easier to drive. But, this comes with a cost. Views and landscapes around F208 South are one of the most beautiful sights you may see in Iceland.
F208 is also one of the most sought F-roads because it leads to the most popular Icelandic highlands area – Landmannalaugar. Most of the guides would tell you to better take F208 north because it’s easier to drive. I will tell you the opposite – take F208 South because it’s amazing. Or even better – take both the southern and the northern ones and admire them. But, choose a proper car and study river crossing guidelines.
Is there a river crossing on F208 North?
There’s no river crossing on F208 north, not even small ponds.
Horses or “Icelandic ponies” blocking the F208 road Fjallabaksleið Nyrðri north of Landmannalaugar
What car do I need for F208 North?
F208 North is a gravel road with many potholes and your car will probably shake a bit while you drive on it. Nonetheless, there’s nothing else exciting about F208 North.
Due to the road re-classification F208/208 from the north is now doable also by a better 2wd car. That being said, we better recommend taking any 4wd car, even a small-sized SUV, that would be fine for this part of F208 even in worse weather.
F208 is a long F-road that connects the southern ring road next to Vik with the southern end of F26. I call “north” the part north of Landmannalaugar and “south” the part south of Landmannalaugar. With F208 North vs F208 South, it’s a tale of two roads, which are significantly different from each other. Long story short – F208 North is easier to drive. But, this comes with a cost. Views and landscapes around F208 South are one of the most beautiful sights you may see in Iceland.
I particularly chose to drive F208 south, because I’d read that it’s a once-in-a-lifetime experience. And I can only confirm that. On top of that, you can make a detour to Langisjor lake from this part of F208 (and you should do that). Just choose a proper car and study river crossing guidelines.
Is there a river crossing on F208 South?
Yes, there are several river crossings from small to medium-sized ones. River crossings on F208 south were among the 3 biggest river crossings we’d encountered during our Icelandic trip (we chose to do medium-sized river crossings at maximum).
River crossings on F208 South are doable, though. Even if you are not highly experienced in driving through water. At least in the summer. The deepest ones had a depth of around 40-60cm during our trip in August. If you are interested in specific details about each river crossing on F208 South, reach out for our Day 3 journey blog post.
Road F208, or Fjallabaksleið Nyrðri, after crossing with F235 towards Landmannalaugar
What car do I need for F208 South?
You need to have at least a medium-sized 4wd car with decent ground clearance to ford the rivers. We’ve done well with our Dacia Duster. However, I wouldn’t go for a smaller car. See our guide below for more details.
“Can we do it in a Suzuki Jimny?”, yes you can try and you may succeed, but you may also not. Jimny is considered to be a small-sized SUV, which, when driven in the right way and in good weather may be enough. It may also not be enough if the opposite is the case.
Choose your car and insurance wisely when driving F-roads with bigger river crossings. Feel free to read how to choose a proper car or how to pick the best Icelandic car rental insurance. We also collaborate with Icelandic car rental companies to give you a discount and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.
F208 South video drive-through
F210 – Fjallabaksleið syðri
This is one of the most moon-like F-roads in Iceland. F210 spans the area between Thorsmork and Landmannalaugar from the west to the east. F210 is only minimally maintained and very remote as only very few cars decide to take the route.
One of the main reasons travelers take the route is the legendary Maelifell mountain along the road. F210 is subject to Icelandic crazy highlands weather (like a total fog or heavy rain out of the blue). Be prepared for that with sufficient equipment, driving skills, and a proper car.
Fjallabaksleið syðri is pretty long and can be divided into Western and Eastern parts (intersected by F261, Emstruleið, in the middle). More about Fjallabaksleið syðri in our detailed article about F210.
Is there a river crossing on F210?
Yes, there are several river crossings, with many of them being small and medium ones and some of them even bigger ones subject to weather conditions. There’s even a part where you’re gonna be driving virtually IN THE RIVER along the river stream. We wrote in detail about driving F210, Fjallabaksleið syðri, in our article about Fjallabak Highlands.
The biggest threats are the rivers Kaldaklofskvísl in the western part of F210 and the river Holmsá in the eastern part of F210. Kaldaklofskvísl has a bit difficult riverbed and Holmsá can sometimes get pretty nasty in terms of depth. Here’s also a short piece of advice from the local:
“River by Mælifell has a rocky bottom and a small steep bank right after you cross the river from the east and the sand can be wet and there is a risk of getting stuck also people tend to hurry across the river because of the steep bank not knowing that the riverbed has quite a lot of rocks that could cause you problems… “
F210 – Fjallabaksleið syðri west – near Álftavatn lake
What car do I need for F210?
For F210 you’re gonna need at least a medium-sized 4wd car, preferably a super-jeep with snorkel and good driving skills. Better practice with less difficult F-roads first and then go for F210.
And definitely choose your car wisely when driving F-roads with bigger river crossings. Feel free to read how to choose a proper car or how to pick the best Icelandic car rental insurance. We also collaborate with Icelandic car rental companies to give you a discount and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.
F210 video drive-through
F223 – Eldgjárvegur
F223 is a short F-road that connects southern F208 with the Eldgjá hiking area. It is one of the easiest F-roads in Iceland and leads through a canyon surrounded by lush green hills.
Is there a river crossing on F223?
No, there’s no river crossing on Eldgjárvegur. There are, however, river crossings on the only connecting road F208 and in both directions – to the south (one) and to the north (several).
What car do I need for F223?
There’s no need for any special car for F223, but bear in mind that to reach it, you need to drive via F208 South. This means you need at least a medium-sized 4×4 car to get to F223.
F224 is a very bumpy road with some epic potholes. You will also meet MANY fellow travelers at F224 because everybody wants to see Landmannalaugar 🙂
Is there a river crossing on F224?
Yes, there are 2 non-trivial, medium-sizedriver crossings at the end of F224, right next to the Brennisteinsalda campsite. That’s why many visitors opt for leaving their cars at the parking lot just before the river crossings. This is not very convenient though, because you have to walk the distance from the car to the campsite (around 10 minutes) each time you need something from your car (and this will happen often, trust me). Also, in case you have a rooftop tent, you will not want to camp that far from the campsite facilities.
If you don’t want to do the final 2 river crossings, basically any small 4wd car will serve you well. Just drive slowly.
In case you want to park directly at Brennisteinsalda campsite, i.e. cross the rivers, you will need a medium-sized 4wd SUV. We’ve seen multiple travelers successfully crossing even with small 4wd cars, but they were struggling a bit and didn’t look very sure about their crossing. It’s already an adventure crossing with a medium-sized SUV so to save you some nerves better go for a bigger car.
F225 is a shortcut from Road 26 in the west to Landmannalaugar in the east. Well, at least it’s supposed to be a shortcut 🙂 It’s 20km shorter than driving north via F26 and F208, but for someone, it may be more difficult to drive. It’s definitely a much nicer drive compared to F208/208 from the north, however.
Is there a river crossing on F225?
Yes, there are some small river crossings on F225, Landmannaleið. Under normal weather conditions and if the road is of course open, they should be doable with any 4wd car. That being said, you still have to adhere to river crossing guidelines and better have some experience with river crossings already. That’s why many travelers avoid this shortcut and go for the rather boring F208/208 North. If you want to start trying river crossings, though, we recommend starting with Landmannaleid 🙂
F225 Landmannaleið in rain
What car do I need for F225?
A medium-sized 4wd SUV should be sufficient for F225. Maybe even a small SUV, according to weather and road conditions.
“Sandy road with two clear water rivers to cross. One of the crossings is in a curve of the river, so can be quite deep. Veiðivotn (fish lakes) is mostly visited by fishermen It is a beautiful area with lots of colorful crater lakes. A great area to do shorter hikes.”
F228 video drive-through
F229 – Jökulheimaleið
F229 Jökulheimaleið
F229 leads to the Jökulheimar area, just west of the Tungnaájökul glacier. There are many connecting tracks to F229 (dirt tracks, not F-roads), which are much more dangerous than F229. In our opinion, this road is not particularly interesting. The more interesting are the neighboring tracks, but they are much more dangerous.
Is there a river crossing on F229?
According to scarce sources, there are no river crossings on the road.
What car do I need for F229?
There are some parts with sand and rough, unmaintained terrain, plus it’s an F-road, so definitely at least a small 4wd car. Other than that, the road should not be dangerous, it’s just remote and not often driven.
F232, or Öldufell, or Öldufellsleið is the legendary road depicted in all of these pictures where you see a car driving virtually over the waterfall. This waterfall is called Bláfjallafoss (after Bláfjallakvisl river). F232 is a beautiful road connecting F210 in the north almost with a ring road in the south. On a nice day, views over Öldufellsjökull glacier (the eastern part of Mýrdalsjökull) are amazing.
F232 Bláfjallafoss waterfall
Is there a river crossing on F232?
Yes, there is one medium-sized river crossing – the famous one over the waterfall. This ford is a bit bumpy but very scenic, especially when shot from the drone perspective. Other than this one river crossing there are only small puddles not worth mentioning.
What car do I need for F232?
A medium-sized 4wd SUV should do the job in good weather conditions. Don’t forget to consider also connecting roads (F210 requires a big 4×4 car but F233 is even more challenging and a super jeep is recommended).
F233 is a shortcut from F210 to the northern part of “F208 south” road. Travelers who want to see Maelifell first and then continue towards Landmannalaugar usually look at this road. Beware though! F233 has one pretty difficult river crossing. This means that you either better avoid this road, or be very well prepared and gain enough experience with river crossings elsewhere first.
Is there a river crossing on F233?
Yes, there are several river crossings with one of them, Syðri-Ófæra river, easily being classified as a big river crossing. F233 opens every year among the last F-roads and that happens for a reason. Sydri Ofaera river with some powerful streams crosses the road and the snow usually holds longer in this area, which means Álftavatnskrókur is passable only for a limited time of a year.
Correct river crossing of Sydri Ofaera river on F233 (click to enlarge).
What car do I need for F233?
With some luck, you may be able to pass with a medium-sized 4wd SUV. In case you don’t want to rely on luck, better go for a super-jeep option. Even with super-jeep, it’s very important to not do something stupid and strictly adhere to river crossing guidelines. Check the road conditions beforehand. Cross the main Sydri Ofaera river as depicted above. Don’t go straight! There are big boulders in the way.
Choose your car and insurance wisely when driving F-roads with bigger river crossings. Feel free to read how to choose a proper car or how to pick the best Icelandic car rental insurance. We also collaborate with Icelandic car rental companies to give you a discount and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.
F233 video drive-through
F235 – Langisjór
F235 is a one-way detour from F208 south towards out-of-this-world Langisjor lake and Sveinstindur mountain. I highly recommend you take F235 if you want to gain experience in driving Icelandic F-roads and enjoy the moon-like landscapes. It’s once in a lifetime experience.
Is there a river crossing on F235?
Yes, there are several river crossings. None of them was dangerous at the time of our journey, though. They are mostly small to medium-sized river crossings doable even if you are not highly experienced. You still have to adhere to river crossing rules of course.
Surreal landscapes on road F235 towards Langisjór lake
What car do I need for F235?
You should do well with any 4wd SUV. The medium-sized 4wd car would be the safest, though, as some of the rivers may gain volume when it rains a lot. More importantly, to reach F235, you will have to cross several medium-sized rivers on F208 and for that, you definitely need a medium-sized 4wd SUV.
F249 is probably the most notoriously known for tourists getting their rental cars drowned here. Except for that, it’s a beautiful moon-like road and one of the only 2 roads that will get you to Thorsmork, which is a beautiful mountainous area. We wrote a detailed guide on getting to Thórsmörk.
The road is better to be avoided if you don’t have all it takes – a proper car, enough experience, and perfect knowledge of river crossing rules. If you don’t gave a big car and enough experience, we suggest taking a guided tour to Thórsmörk.
Is there a river crossing on F249?
Sure, there are many river crossings on F249. They start as small ponds, soon evolve into small rivers, then medium-sized rivers, and end with big ones. The final river crossing (Krossá river) is probably the biggest river crossing you may encounter on marked F-roads in Iceland.
We drove to Thorsmork in a smaller super jeep. This is what I suggest to everyone to stay safe. We also drove only up to the Krossá river – you don’t want to cross this one, trust me. Read more details about our trip to Thorsmork here.
A spectacular view from the top of Valahnjukur
What car do I need for F249?
Without any doubt, you’re gonna need a super-jeep. And the bigger the better. The last river crossing is one of the most treacherous and challenging moments you will encounter on Icelandic roads. Even with a super-jeep, it’s not guaranteed you’re gonna pass. You have to ford a river precisely in the way it needs to be forded, to not drown your car.
Choose your car and insurance wisely when driving F-roads with bigger river crossings. Feel free to read how to choose a proper car or how to pick the best Icelandic car rental insurance. We also collaborate with Icelandic car rental companies to give you a discount and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.
F249 video drive-through
F261 – Emstruleið
F261 leads along the northern side of Thorsmork valley and connects it with the eastern part of F210.
Is there a river crossing on F261?
Yes, there is one main river crossing, through the Bláfjallakvisl river. It’s considered at least a medium-sized river crossing and can become a bigger one when it rains a lot. There are no other notable river crossings. We crossed Blafjallakvisl on F261 several times in August in dry weather. The crossing was OK at that time and generally should be easier than Kaldaklofskvisl on F210. We wrote in detail about our F261 driving experience here.
F261 Emstruleið
What car do I need for F261?
A medium-sized 4wd SUV should do the job in good (dry) weather conditions. Don’t forget to consider also connecting roads (F210 should be similar but F233 is one of the most challenging F-roads in Iceland when it comes to river crossings). A large 4wd SUV always makes it safer to drive F261, however.
“The track starts next to Geysir thermal area. It first goes through an Icelandic wood, then through fields of lupines, and ends at the F338. There is one small river crossing, but it shouldn’t be a problem.”
Another: “F333 is an unpaved and rough road. It doesn’t have any unbridged rivers, but the section beginning from the F338 route is very bumpy, filled with potholes and big rocks on the road. After that section, the F333 becomes a forest road, which is a pretty unusual experience in Iceland due to the lack of trees. 🙂 “
F333 video drive-through
F335 – Hagavatnsvegur
F335 advice from the local
“Track that goes to the glacier lake Hagavatn. The first part is easy, with only one tiny stream to cross. Nice views at Lake Sandvatn. Near the end is a small cabin from Ferðafélag Íslands. In 2015, staying there for one night cost ISK 4000. Very short bunk beds, and no drinking water near the cabin. After the cabin, the track continues for another kilometer to Hagavatn. But you have to cross a glacial river, about 4m wide. At the end of the road lake, Hagavatn overflows into a river with a 30-meter (my guess) high waterfall named Leynifoss. According to a message in the cabins gestabók (guest book), it should be possible to hike from there to the nearby glacier, but I haven’t tried that.”
“Starting from F338, going south, you first get a decent track around Mount Hlödufell. There are actually tracks on both sides of the mountain, I took the right branch. The area is flat but scattered with huge boulders which probably fell from the mountain. There is a cabin on the south side of the mountain, often used by horse groups. One km after the cabin there is an unnumbered sidetrack on your right, that goes to Thingvellir. I think its name is Eyvindarleið…
…The F337 continues in sand and lava to a mountain range. Just before reaching it, there is a sign pointing back to the north to an unnumbered track that goes around this mountain range. Close nearby the river Brúará runs in a small but pretty canyon Bruarárskörð, worth a visit. The same river later forms a few km downstream of the Brúarfoss waterfall. After the mentioned sign, the road goes steeply up the mountain. The track is mostly fair, but there is one section where it crosses a dry riverbed with big round stones for a few hundred meters. At the top of the mountain, you have a great view of Lake Apavatn (weather permitting, I only saw mist and rain), before descending on a steep and curvy road. There are no rivers to cross on F337.”
F338 – Skjaldbreiðarvegur
F338 advice from the local
One: “This is a Linuvegir, a track along powerlines. It runs on the slopes of the shield volcano Skjaldbreiður. Starting from the west the track first crosses a small stream. The track is mostly fine with only a few sandy stretches. But it runs in a lava field, with lots of short curves and bends. And several stretches where you drive under the powerlines. Nice views of the Thórisjökull and Langjökull glaciers. A few km before the track ends near Gullfoss, there is a river crossing. I don’t know how difficult this one is (I took the turn to F333), but you cross the same river on a bridge near Geysir, and it looks doable there.”
F338 Skjaldbreidarvegur
Another: “The river crossings on this road are very wide (3:55) and rather wide (7:00) (the only optimal place for a crossing is where the river turns wide and hopefully shallow). One needs to plan the crossing correctly because one is able to find submerged and surfaced boulders to place the car on top of, and also deep vistas within the crossing. This crossing changes every single year so any route or tracks may lead one astray and the route shown in the video is *not* to be taken for granted.”
F338 video drive-through
F347 – Kerlingafjallavegur
F347 is the only road leading directly to the picturesque Kerlingarfjoll area. It’s a detour from F35 and it’s definitely worth taking. In terms of difficulty, I would divide F347 into two parts – up to a Kerlingarfjoll mountain resort and afterward, towards Hveradalir.
Up to the Kerlingarfjoll mountain resort, F347 is just a gravel road with potholes doable even by a 2wd car. To Hveradalir, however, it becomes more challenging. This time the challenge exceptionally doesn’t lie in river crossings (as there are no unbridged ones) but in the steepness and rugged terrain of the final section.
Is there a river crossing on F347?
Contrary to the wrong statements of some other guides – there is NO unbridged river crossing on F347. This means you may get to Kerlingarfjoll without fording any river.
F347 road next to Hveradalir hot spring area in Kerlingarfjoll
What car do I need for F347?
For the part up to Kerlingarfjoll mountain resort, any 4wd car would be sufficient. For the final part leading to Hveradalir, I recommend at least a medium-sized SUV with enough ground clearance. Dacia Duster is a minimum. We’ve done it in it and it was a bit scary.
“Can we do it in a Suzuki Jimny?”, yes you can try and you may succeed, but you may also not. Jimny is considered to be a small-sized SUV, which, when driven in the right way and in good weather may be enough. It may also not be enough if the opposite is the case.
Not sure what type of car to choose? Feel free to read how to choose a proper car or how to pick the best Icelandic car rental insurance. We also collaborate with Icelandic car rental companies to give you a discount and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.
F347 video drive-through
F349 – Kerlingarfjöll old
F349 – old Kerlingarfjöll track
F349 is an old, remote, and really long F-road serving as an alternative road to Kerlingarfjöll. F349 is not well-known, nor often driven. You will hardly meet here anyone, which is also both the biggest danger and biggest beauty of the road – its remoteness. Rough highlands and wild landscapes will be surrounding you on every kilometer of this track.
Is there a river crossing on F349?
According to very scarce resources, there are some small to medium-sized river crossings on F349. Rivers are not the main obstacle on this road.
What car do I need for F349?
As already mentioned, the main danger of this road are not river crossings, but rather its remoteness and some really rough sections. This means narrow roads and steep ascents and descents. It’s safer and easier to drive the road from south to north, not the opposite, because this way the steepest parts will be descents and not ascents.
Theoretically, under good weather conditions, a medium 4wd SUV should be able to drive through F349. However, bear in mind the road is really remote, with steep and rough sections. To be on the safe side I would definitely recommend at least a large 4×4 car and ideally a super jeep.
F508 – Skorradalsvegur
F508 advice from the local
“I’ve driven F508 Skorradalsvegur in a 4×4 truck. It’s bumpy and rocky. There is only one really steep hill to climb if one drives east (descend if one drives west). No rivers to cross that I can recall, but as mentioned – this follows the power lines like F338, not so much “under” the lines but they’re always nearby. Very little to see apart from one small waterfall next to the steep section mentioned – a second one isn’t far away but to see it one needs to hike to it. Both are pictured here and are about 12-14 meters high each (39-46 ft): https://gonguleidir.is/listing/eiriksfell-i-skorradal/ Those who visit these waterfalls tend to drive back out of Skorradalur rather than heading onwards.”
Not sure what type of car to choose? Feel free to read how to choose a proper car or how to pick the best Icelandic car rental insurance. We also collaborate with Icelandic car rental companies to give you a discount and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.
F570 – Jökulshálsvegur
F570 has been reclassified to just “570” in recent years, due to road improvements. Still, Google Maps mark it as F570.
F570 is an old mountain road connecting Ólafsvik with Arnastapi. The road is steep and narrow at several spots, but beautiful! It is also the closest road to Snæfellsjökull glacier. Super jeep tours use it for reaching the glacier and also for bringing the snowmobiles up towards the glacier.
We drove Road 570 in mid-July just 2 hours after the official opening. There was still a lot of snow around the road and we even had to pass several 3-meters (10-feet) high snow tunnels! We loved the drive and it was a once-in-a-lifetime experience.
Is there a river crossing on F570?
There are no river crossings on F570 – Jökulshálsvegur. There may be snow, though. Especially earlier in the season (May, June, July).
Road 570 Snæfellsness near Snæfellsjökull
What car do I need for F570?
Although technically a 2wd car is allowed in good conditions, we definitely do recommend driving Jökulshálsvegur with a 4×4 car. The road gets steep from time to time and you may get stuck with a small car. A small 4wd car is a must and should be enough under good weather conditions. We would better take there at least a medium-sized 4×4, though, as we mentioned above, because snow may often be present on the road.
Not sure what type of car to choose? Feel free to read how to choose a proper car or how to pick the best Icelandic car rental insurance. We also collaborate with Icelandic car rental companies to give you a discount and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.
F570 video drive-through
F575 – Eysteinsdalsleið
F575, Eysteinsdalsleið
F575 is the only F-road that has remained in place in Snæfellsnes. It connects the western part of Road 547 (near Saxhóll crater) to the middle part of Road 570 (former F570). In some spots, it is steep, narrow, and with rough terrain and rocks. Nevertheless, F575 is definitely one of the easier F-roads.
We drove F575 on a sunny day in mid-July and it was a magnificent drive. Views on a nice day are picturesque and the road on a such day is a quick and quite easy drive.
Is there a river crossing on F575?
There’s no river crossing on F575 – Eysteinsdalsleið. The road is just steep, and rough, and there may be snow early in the season (anytime before August).
F575 Eysteinsdalsleið, Snæfellsnes in mid-July
What car do I need for F575?
F575 is a bit rougher and steeper than F570. You should drive the road with a 4×4 car or ideally in a larger 4×4 vehicle. However, under good weather conditions and when the snow is already melted it’s more or less an easy 4wd drive.
Not sure what type of car to choose? Feel free to read how to choose a proper car or how to pick the best Icelandic car rental insurance. We also collaborate with Icelandic car rental companies to give you a discount and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.
F575 video drive-through
F578 – Arnarvatnsvegur
F578 advice from the local
One: “Starting in Húsafell the first part is a bumpy ride in an old lava field. After about 6 km there are signs of two lava caves, Súrtshellir and Íshellir. The track continues bumpy and bendy, but with a good view of Langjökull and EiríksJökull, until the river Nórðingafljót. This is a clear-water river but can be a major obstacle. Wide, fast streaming, and big rocks on the river bed. Not an easy crossing…
…The F578 continues as a fair track to a mountain cabin Alftakrókurskáli and onwards. After a (signposted) turn to the left, the track goes along Arnarvatn stóra and to the fishing lodges at the north side. The Landscape is mostly lakes and small hills covered with stones. From Arnarvatn the road is going north as a straight black line in flat green moorland back to inhabited areas. But the “F” is then already dropped from the road number. There are quite a few unnumbered tracks in the area, and I was surprised to see how well signposted and marked they were, like this one, south of Arnarvatn.”
Another: “F578 from the south is quite rough. So rough that anglers going to the lodges generally drive the RR1 to the north and then take the F578 from there. I have twice had to help wrecked vehicles out of the river (Norðlingafljót). It’s a road I wouldn’t do except on a good truck.”
F586 – Haukadalsskarðsvegur
F586 advice from the local
“A normal track going over a hill. Steep on both sides. On the east side, you have to cross the same river two or three times, but this shouldn’t be a problem. More upstream the river runs in a nice but not too impressive canyon. Near the top of the hill, the river is dammed, creating a small reservoir. On the west side of the hill, you only have to cross one small river. There is an impressive rock face near the end of F586. The biggest attraction of Haukadalur is Eiriksstaðir, a replica of a Viking house, where a guy in a Viking costume will show you around.”
Not sure what type of car to choose? Feel free to read how to choose a proper car or how to pick the best Icelandic car rental insurance. We also collaborate with Icelandic car rental companies to give you a discount and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.
F586 video drive-through
F649 – Ófeigsfjarðarvegur
F649 Ófeigsfjarðarvegur Iceland
F649 advice from the local
“649 starts at Strandavegur (643) and goes over a mountain towards a fjord named Ingólfsfjörður. After descending the mountain, the road passes through Eyri, a small village that has a huge deserted herring factory and some houses used as summer homes. It’s after the factory when 649 becomes F649 and the road conditions get much more rougher and bumpier. Driving along the coastline we passed through a farm and eventually arrived next to the Húsá river. It’s worth mentioning that it is possible to ford Húsá river and carry on for a few more km and end up at Hvalárfoss waterfall, which marks the end of F649. But since we had problems with our car’s 4WD system, I decided not to risk it this time with the river crossing. So, we just turned around and drove all the way back to Strandavegur.
I’d say F649 is a very special road since it’s so isolated and far away from everything. As mentioned earlier, it creates a feeling that you are driving towards some kind of an end. And in a way, you also experience a sense of ending when you pass the abandoned factory, which has been like that since 1952. That being said, there was actually surprisingly much traffic on that day. :)”
F649 video drive-through
F734 – Svörtutungur / old Kjölur
F734 Iceland
F734 is a dangerous alternative to normal Kjölur (road 35). An area around F734 is completely uninhabited and the road is a very scarcely driven one. That means rough and unmaintained.
Is there a river crossing on F734?
There are two big river crossings – the rivers of Svartakvisl and Blandá. We are talking about 80cm and more in terms of the depth of the ford. Can be easily more than 1 meter. On top of that – strong current and big rocks. Don’t go alone! And very carefully check the conditions!
Not sure what type of car to choose? Feel free to read how to choose a proper car or how to pick the best Icelandic car rental insurance. We also collaborate with Icelandic car rental companies to give you a discount and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.
F735 – Þjófadalavegur
F735 advice from the local
“This is the road to Hveravellir, which is a must-go when you travel the Kjölur route. The track continues to the cabin at þjófadalir. I did this track but returned halfway because the scenery was not interesting enough. There is a track going up the mountain on the right (Oddnýjarhnúkur) which may give a good view of the Langjökull glacier which is behind it. No streams to cross on this track.”
F752 – Skagafjarðarleið
F752 advice from the local
“One of the three roads from the north to the Sprengisandur. And IMO the second most interesting after the F881 (from Akureyri) but before the F26. It has one major obstacle, near Laugafell you have to cross a big glacial river, the Hnjúkskvísl. There are also several freshwater rivers to cross, but these should be minor problems. Not many highlights on this road. Of course, Laugafell has an excellent thermal pool. The east part of F752 is rather desolate but sometimes has a good view of the Hofsjökull glacier. After a steep descent with sharp curves, you are in a green river valley between mountains, where it continues as road 752.”
F752 Skagafjardarleid south of Laugafell
Another: “As usual, it’s a lonely unpaved road, offering beautiful views and lunar landscapes. It also has some streams and two pretty wide unbridged rivers, that need fording. They weren’t too deep when were crossing them, but they can be depending on the weather conditions.”
Not sure what type of car to choose? Feel free to read how to choose a proper car or how to pick the best Icelandic car rental insurance. We also collaborate with Icelandic car rental companies to give you a discount and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.
F752 video drive-through
F821 – Eyjafjarðarleið
F821 is another spectacular Icelandic F-road located in the north of Iceland. It starts from Hólsgerði farm and heads south until it reaches Laugafell mountain hut. It’s pretty rough, having big potholes and rocks on the road.
Is there a river crossing on F821?
Yes, there are some small river crossings on F821, Eyjafjarðarleið. No serious or big river crossing, though.
What car do I need for F821?
F821 is theoretically passable by any 4wd car. We were more than happy, however, to have our big Land Cruiser with enough ground clearance and enough horsepower in case of the car got stuck or in case of meeting another car.
Rivers are not a big issue with Eyjafjarðarleið, the steep terrain is, however. There were some scary spots where a bigger car with high-enough undercarriage came in very handy. I would recommend renting a Land Cruiser-like vehicle for peace of mind.
Choose your car wisely when driving steep and rough F-roads. Feel free to read how to choose a proper car or how to pick the best Icelandic car rental insurance. We also collaborate with Icelandic car rental companies to give you a discount and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.
F821 Eyjafjardarleid
F821 advice from the local
“It doesn’t have any huge unbridged rivers, just a couple of streams. F821 runs through a valley and then climbs from sea level up to 926 meters (3037 ft). The twisty and narrow section climbing up was very exciting and memorable. The trail ends with Laugafell mountain hut, which has a natural geothermal hot spring.
We took this road on the 5th of September 2020 and a day before that there had been an unexpected spontaneous snowstorm in that area, especially more in the center part of Iceland. Luckily, the following day was clear and warm and the sun had been melting a lot of snow by the time we got there. That’s the reason why the trail was quite wet in the beginning and after the elevation, there was quite a bit of snow still on the road. A good example of how Icelandic weather can be unpredictable and change the conditions very quickly.”
F821 video drive-through
F839 – Leirdalsheiðarvegur
F839, in Icelandic Leirdalsheiðarvegur, is one of the two roads in the Northern Highlands leading to the sea, next to Flatey island and close to Akureyri’s fjord – Eyjafjörður. It’s a beautiful valley drive with sea views in the distance. We wrote in detail about driving F839 (Leirdalsheiðarvegur) in our article.
Is there a river crossing on F839?
Yes, there are some small to medium-sized river crossings on F839, Leirdalsheiðarvegur. No serious or big river crossing, though.
What car do I need for F839?
We recommend taking at least a medium-sized 4wd/SUV. There are river crossings on the road that require some ground clearance. If weather conditions are really good, also a small 4wd car should be sufficient. To be sure, we would use a bigger one though. We drove the road in Land Cruiser.
Not sure what type of car to choose? Feel free to read how to choose a proper car or how to pick the best Icelandic car rental insurance. We also collaborate with Icelandic car rental companies to give you a discount and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.
F839 – Leirdalsheiðarvegur
F839 advice from the local
“F839 is interesting… It often doesn’t open until late July or early August. It’s only about a 45-minute drive to the sea where you have an exceptional view and a legal but extremely primitive camping site. Great fishing at the mouth of the lake for a reasonable fee (ISK 6000). This road can be done in any reasonable SUV with +20cm clearance loaded.”
Another: “F839 is a bit shorter than F899, being 27 km (16,7 miles) long (while the F899 is 34 km / 21 miles long). It has a few unbridged rivers (or streams) that need crossing, but for me, the highlight of F839 is in the middle where there is a steep descent following a tight bridge and then ascent back up. Maybe it’s also worth mentioning that near the end of the road, we encountered some trail damage, and driving through that small section needed more caution. We did this trail at the end of September, so we were rewarded with beautiful autumn-coloured scenery. “
F839 video drive-through
F843 – Dyngjufjöll
F843 – Dyngjufjöll
F843 is a totally deserted, rough, and unmaintained F-road. You won’t even find it on many maps. F843 leads west of the Dyngjufjöll mountains, hence its name. F843 is an old road connecting the Mývatn area in the north with the Askja area and with F910 in the central highlands of Iceland. The terrain is rocky and full of lava formations. The main challenge of F843 is the rough terrain and some steep sections, but mostly its remoteness.
Is there a river crossing on F843?
According to very scarce resources, there are some small to medium-sized river crossings. Rivers are not the main obstacle on this road.
What car do I need for F843?
You need a high ground clearance for crossing the lava field after Botni (thanks Volker Jungmann for pointing that out). Also, bear in mind the road connects to the central F910 which is even harder to drive on. For central F910 you definitely need a large 4×4 car and ideally a super jeep. Anything else is theoretically possible, but simply irresponsible and you may end up getting yourself stuck or injured.
We collaborate with Icelandic car rental companies to give you a discount and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.
F881 – Dragaleið
F881 is a road in the Icelandic Highlands connecting F26 and F821, located in the very heart of Iceland. It’s 18 km / 11 miles long and driving it offers a true sense of wilderness. At times it almost really feels as if you are on another planet.
Is there a river crossing on F881?
There is no river crossing on F881, Dragaleið. It’s just a rough and remote road.
What car do I need for F881?
While F881 itself is not difficult to drive and would require basically any 4wd car, don’t forget about connecting roads! All three of them – F752, F821, and F26 are much more difficult to drive, so you should choose your car according to where you will be driving next.
F894 is a climax of all moon-like roads leading to the amazing Askja area. It is the final section (after F905 and F910) which ends closest to the famous Viti crater. F894 is a very rough unpaved road that will shake the hell out of you but otherwise isn’t dangerous at all.
There is no river crossing on F894. There are 2 medium-sized ones on the F910 preceding it, though, and several bigger ones also on the alternative route of the F88.
Vikraborgir car park, the closest point available on your route towards Askja/Víti crater
What car do I need for F894?
You need an SUV with sufficient ground clearance because the road is very bumpy with many big boulders being part of the terrain. By sufficient I mean at least that of a medium-sized SUV like the Dacia Duster. Alternatively, you may just drive very slowly to take care and not damage the undercarriage of your car.
Don’t forget to consider connecting roads. There are 2 medium-sized river crossings on F910 and even bigger river crossings on F88. Plan for that carefully.
Not sure what type of car to choose? Feel free to read how to choose a proper car or how to pick the best Icelandic car rental insurance. We also collaborate with Icelandic car rental companies to give you a discount and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.
F894 video drive-through
F899 – Flateyjardalsvegur
F899 or Flateyjardalsvegur, is one of the two roads in the Northern Highlands leading to the sea, next to Flatey island and close to Akureyri’s fjord – Eyjafjörður. It’s a beautiful valley drive with sea views in the distance. We wrote in detail about driving F899 (Flateyjardalsvegur) in our article.
Is there a river crossing on F899?
Yes, you have to cross several unbridged streams of small to medium sizes. There’s also one bigger river towards the end of the road, near the sea, that can be considered at a minimum a medium-sized river crossing. It can sometimes get bigger when it rains a lot.
What car do I need for F899?
We recommend taking a large 4wd/SUV, like Land Cruiser. There are river crossings on the road that require some ground clearance, especially the last one. If weather conditions are really good, also a medium-sized 4wd car should be sufficient. To be sure, we would use a bigger one though. We drove the road in Land Cruiser.
Not sure what type of car to choose? Feel free to read how to choose a proper car or how to pick the best Icelandic car rental insurance. We also collaborate with Icelandic car rental companies to give you a discount and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.
F899 Flateyjardalsvegur
F899 advice from the local
“You would say this track would be comparable with F839. But there is no steep climb in the beginning, and no summer houses, and it looked more deserted. But like F839 it is a river valley between beautiful mountains. Along the track were several signs pointing to deserted or disappeared farms. Halfway through the track is a mountain cabin, and near the end, another was under construction. Near the beach, there was a toilet house. There are numerous rivers to cross, but I don’t remember any that would be a problem with a decent SUV.”
Another: “F899 isn’t as rugged as some other F-roads, however, it still has numerous streams and unbridged rivers that need to be crossed, even though none of the rivers were super deep when we did this trip. Nature was very beautiful and green, offering stunning views. At the end of the trail, there is a sandy beach section that might be problematic for some vehicles. A small island, called Flatey, is also seen from the end of the trail. There is also a campsite (just before the sandy part) that has a flush toilet and running fresh water.”
F899 video drive-through
F902 – Kverkfjallaleið
F902 advice from the local
“Did this with a tour group, and only remember that the track was quite sandy. Kverkfjöll is an impressive hot spring area on top of the glacier. But very difficult to reach, because it requires a few hundred meters of steep climbing on the glacier. A hike from the cabin at the foot of the glacier to the spring area and back will take a full day. There are guided tours that start at the cabin.”
F902 video drive-through
F903 – Hvannalindavegur
F903 Hvannalindavegur Iceland
No, you won’t find this road at its full length on Google Maps. You need to look at more local maps.
F903 advice from the local
“Compared to some other Icelandic Highland roads, F903 is pretty sandy. I personally loved the rocky section of the trail, which is just before the first river crossing. F903 has two unbridged river crossings, both over the Lindaá river. In the middle of the trail after the second river crossing is a small oasis, called Hvannalindir.”
F903 video drive-through
F905 – Arnardalsleið
F905 is the first in the series of F-roads leading to the amazing Askja area. Compared to the main alternative – F88 – the road F905 (and F910) to Askja is longer, more versatile and I would say more beautiful. F905 stretches through the most beautiful and out-of-this-world Icelandic landscapes and I more than just recommend you take it. It’s once in a lifetime experience. The terrain is rough (see more below), but it’s worth the drive.
Gravel, clay, rocks, sand, sulfur – anything you can imagine, all of this surrounded by unforgettable views of the volcanic hills around. This is F905.
Should you take F88 from the north or F905 from the east to reach Askja? Long story short, If you are a river crossing beginner and if you want to take the more scenic route, then F905 is a better choice. On the other hand, if you are well experienced in Icelandic river crossings, then F88 will be quicker and with easier terrain.
You need a proper car for both alternatives, though. We wrote in detail here about our Askja experience with driving on the moon-like F-roads leading to Askja.
Is there a river crossing on F905?
There are no major river crossings on F905, only ponds, and small rivers. There are 2 significant medium-sized river crossings on the following F910, though. Follow the river crossing principles to succeed.
F905 coming from Möðrudalsleið, towards Askja
What car do I need for F905?
Specifically for F905, you would be fine with any 4wd car. BUT, don’t forget about the connecting roads, especially F910. As I mentioned, it contains medium-sized river crossings which require you to drive at least a medium-sized SUV to be more sure to cross.
F905 is a versatile F-road with all kinds of terrain you can imagine. It’s also bumpy and possesses many potholes so take care when driving it.
Not sure what type of car to choose? Feel free to read how to choose a proper car or how to pick the best Icelandic car rental insurance. We also collaborate with Icelandic car rental companies to give you a discount and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.
F905 video drive-through
F907
F907 has been reclassified to just “907” in recent years, due to road improvements. Still, Google Maps mark it as F907.
We drove only a short section of F907 from the crossroads with Austurleid in the west to Jokuldalsvegur in the south. This section had only some small ponds to cross. I’ll write a detailed guide once I drive the entire F907.
What car do I need for F907?
For the short section we drove, any 4wd car would be sufficient. Bear in mind though, you’re gonna be probably continuing on the more difficult roads like F910 where medium-sized river crossings are present. For those, you need a medium-sized SUV.
F909 – Snæfellsleið
F909 advice from the local
“Coming from the north you first get three smaller glacial rivers. Before you get to the mountain cabin, there is another, much wider one. The road itself was easy to ride, at least on my bike. From the cabin, I did a day hike following the valley west and later south of Mount Snæfell and was rewarded with a great view of the valley east of the mountain. Another popular hike is to go to the top of Snæfell. You can ask the warden at the cabin for directions. After the cabin, the road continues as a bumpy track to the Brúarjökull glacier. At that point, the glacier is not very steep, and you can easily set some foot on it.”
F909 video drive-through
F910 – Austurleið – east
F910 is the road you cannot avoid when visiting Askja. F910 connects both F905 and F88 with the main Askja area. It’s a breathtaking F-road with magnificent landscapes along the road. Driving on F910 is an integral part of the entire Askja adventure.
One important fact – 99% of visitors drive only a small part of Austurleið – the part leading to Askja. However, F910 also continues a long way through central highlands all the way to F26 and Nyidalur in the west:
F910 Austurleið full length
This is a very deserted part of Iceland, we cover it below as F910 – Dyngjufjallaleið – west. In this paragraph, we cover only the part of the F910 leading to Askja from the east.
So – if heading to Askja – be prepared for your Askja venture responsibly. It’s neither an easy drive nor the short one. Bring enough food and water, tank enough fuel, and plan your journey in advance. Study guidelines for driving F-roads and crossing rivers carefully.
F910 towards Askja
Is there a river crossing on F910?
Yes, there are 2 major medium-sized river crossings on F910. They are manageable, just check the weather and road conditions thoroughly before departure and follow precautionary safety guidelines on the Icelandic Safe Travel website.
There are medium-sized river crossings on F910, hence you need preferably at least a medium-sized 4wd car. “Can we do it in a Suzuki Jimny?”, yes you can try and you may succeed, but you may also not. Jimny is considered to be a small-sized SUV, which, when driven in the right way and in good weather may be enough. It may also not be enough if the opposite is the case.
If you want to be sure, better opt for a larger car. Not sure what type of car to choose? Feel free to read how to choose a proper car or how to pick the best Icelandic car rental insurance. We also collaborate with Icelandic car rental companies to give you a discount and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.
F910 video drive-through
F910 – Dyngjufjallaleið – west
Map of F910 west – Dyngjufjallaleið – leading from Nyidalur to Dreki
Fascinating, remote, moon-like F-road. That’s F910 between Nyidalur and Askja. A typical Icelandic visitor will never drive this road, nor hear about this road, central F910 is simply too far off. Everybody knows about F910 East leading to Askja only.
Remoteness is the main reason why someone decides to take the road, but also the main danger. The terrain of Dyngjufjallaleið is very rough and any help is very far away. Prepare well and choose your car wisely, or don’t drive this road.
Is there a river crossing on F910 West?
Yes, there are several medium river crossings on central F910 connecting Dreki (Askja) and Nyidalur (F26). The biggest river crossing is located about 30 minutes of drive from Nyidalur and can be considered a medium-to-big river crossing. You need to come equipped with a large enough car, with some river crossing experience, and ideally after a dry period.
A drive through F910 from Nyidalur to Askja
You can read about our river crossing experience of central F910 in our article about Central Highlands (upcoming). For a video of all river crossings, see below. Just a word of caution, the video was shot at the end of July, over a very dry period.
What car do I need for F910 West?
You need a big 4×4 car, such as Land Cruiser, at minimum. We, however, better recommend driving a super jeep with high ground clearance.
Beware, there are medium-to-big river crossings, very rough terrain requiring high ground clearance (Land Cruiser minimum), and any help will be very far away in each direction. Don’t risk it with a smaller car, you may end up crying alone being stuck in the center of Iceland.
Not sure what type of car to choose? Feel free to read how to choose a proper car or how to pick the best Icelandic car rental insurance. We also collaborate with Icelandic car rental companies to give you a discount and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.
F910 West video drive-through
F923 – Jökuldalsvegur
F923 Jokuldalsvegur Iceland
No, you won’t find this road at its full length on Google Maps. You need to look at more local maps.
F923 advice from the local
“It turns into an F-road after the last farm and straight away there is quite a wide unbridged river that needs to be forded in order to carry on. There is a second river crossing also, but that one is located a little bit before the end of the road. Eventually, F923 ends with merging into road 910. We did this trip at the end of September and some parts of the road were already covered by quite a bit of snow.”
F923 video drive-through
F936 – Þórdalsheiðarvegur
936/F936 Þórdalsheiðarvegur map
Road F936 (in some maps already marked as only 936), Þórdalsheiðarvegur, is an F-road leading along the power lines through a green and stony mountainous valley. Technically, F936 is kind of a “shortcut” from Fjarðabyggð in the east to Road 95 in the west. F936 is pretty rough, however, so it’s doubtful whether it’s really a shortcut. For F-road lovers, Þórdalsheiðarvegur is a nice route to take, though.
Fun fact from our reader: “All those power lines go from Kárahnjúkar dam to Alcoa Fjardáal aluminum smelting company that consumes five times more power per day than capital city Reykjavik. And this road is basically just a service road for them”.
F936 (or 936 already) – Thordalsheidarvegur
Is there a river crossing on road F936?
There’s no river crossing on F936. However, be prepared for steep, rough, and narrow roads leading through a mountainous area.
What car do I need for road F936?
Although it’s possible to drive F936 in good weather in any 4×4 vehicle, we do recommend taking at least a medium 4×4 car. There are some really steep parts at F936. In case you meet a vehicle going in the other direction, or if you meet Mr. snow on the road, it’s much safer to have a bigger car.
F946, or Loðmundarfjarðarvegur, is one of the most remote roads in Eastfjord of Iceland. It leads via mountainous terrain to the hut in Loðmundarfjörður which is inhabited only seldom. The road has picturesque surroundings and is definitely worth a drive in nice weather and proper car.
The map above depicts both road 946 and F946 from Borgarfjordur Eystri up to Loðmundarfjörður hut. F946 starts roughly in the half.
Is there a river crossing on road F946?
There’s no river crossing on F946. However, be prepared for a steep, rough, and narrow road leading through a highly mountainous area.
F946 Loðmundarfjarðarvegur Borgarfjörður Eystri
What car do I need for road F946?
Although it’s possible to drive the road in good weather in a medium-sized 4×4 vehicle, we do recommend taking a large 4×4 car. There are some really steep parts at F946. In case you meet a vehicle going in the other direction, or if you find snow on the road, it’s much safer to have a bigger car.
F959 or Viðfjarðarvegur is an F-road quietly hidden in Eastfjords leading to very remote Viðfjörður fjord. F959 is very scarcely driven, we drove it in a high season at the end of July and we were the only foreign car on the road. Viðfjarðarvegur is worth the drive if you enjoy remote mountain roads and lonely places where you will be completely alone surrounded just by Icelandic countryside.
Is there a river crossing on road F959?
There’s no river crossing on F959, only some small puddles and streams. The main obstacle of Viðfjarðarvegur is not rivers, but its steep, narrow, and bumpy parts. The major, the most exciting, and also the most dangerous part of the road is a drive via a narrow mountain pass with steep falls on your right and steep mountain slopes on your left (coming from the south).
F959, Viðfjarðarvegur, leading (surprisingly) to Viðfjörður
The road is wide just enough for one car. If you meet another car, you have to think a lot to find a spot where you can both pass. This of course involves even more dangerous maneuvers of driving uphill or downhill in reverse or similar.
What car do I need for road F959?
F959 is technically passable by any 4wd car. We were more than happy, however, to have our big Land Cruiser with enough ground clearance and enough horsepower in case of a car got stuck or in case of meeting another car.
Choose your car wisely when driving steep and rough F-roads. Feel free to read how to choose a proper car or how to pick the best Icelandic car rental insurance. We also collaborate with Icelandic car rental companies to give you a discount and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.
F959 video drive-through
F980 – Kollumúlavegur
F980 Kollumúlavegur
F980 is called Kollumúlavegur because it leads to Kollumúli mountain cabin in the Lónsöræfi highlands. F980 is beautiful and so are the surrounding landscapes. But the road is really dangerous due to its river crossing of the Skyndidalsá river. You may try to drive up to the river and then turn back. Never drive alone through the river. You may end up like this.
Is there a river crossing on road F980?
Yes, there are some medium-sized river crossings at all parts of F980. The major river crossing is located roughly in the middle – this is the Skyndidalsá river. This river crossing is one of the biggest in Iceland, together with Krossá on F249. Never go alone, never attempt in anything else than a super jeep, and better go with a guide.
F980 Kollúmulavegur to Lónsöræfi
What car do I need for road F980?
Up to the Skyndidalsá river (roughly in the middle of F980) you should be fine with a large 4×4. If you want to cross the river, your option is only and only a super jeep + someone else crossing with you.
Not sure what type of car to choose? Feel free to read how to choose a proper car or how to pick the best Icelandic car rental insurance. We also collaborate with Icelandic car rental companies to give you a discount and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.
F980 advice from the local
“I tried to do it once by almost the end of October. No snow in low lands yet. The river was not big, doable with my Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.0 CRD, 32 inches, and snorkel. But up in the mountains, after about 20km it became more and more difficult: foggy and some snow. I could probably do it to the end but since I have never been there I did not know what to expect. The road is sometimes very narrow and on the edge of the mountain. I was thinking if somewhere I could no longer continue, it would have been difficult to even turn around. Thus, I decided to turn back.
I assume in summer I cannot cross the river because there are so many river beds with deep trenches…if full of water, difficult to get oriented and where to drive. In summer you definitely need a super jeep and someone knowing the river with close eyes. But even then, you should expect for unexpected. I heard that even very experienced local drivers in their super Jeeps ended up by being rescued. Indeed, such river is no joke at all.”
F980 video drive-through
F985 – Jökulvegur
Jökulvegur is an F-road leading to Skálafellsjökull glacier, a branch of the biggest Icelandic glacier – Vatnajökull. F985 mostly serves as an access road to the glacier. Tour companies take their jeeps with snowmobiles and transport tourists together with snowmobiles directly to the glacier via this road.
F985 has probably the biggest number of zig-zag bends out of all roads I’ve driven in Iceland. Jökulvegur will lead you to a pretty high altitude through a steep gravel road. F985 seems to be short on the map, but in reality, it felt to be quite a long drive. And the drive is not for those afraid of heights Several parts of the road will test your guts.
No, there are no river crossings on F985. But – the road is steep, narrow, with some pretty dangerous parts. Thus, the main threat of this road is mountain passes, not rivers.
What car do I need for road F985?
I drove F985 in our modified Land Cruiser and had no problems at all. It may be dangerous to drive all these steep ascents and rough gravel with Dacia Duster or anything smaller. Yes, it may be possible, but irresponsible. I better recommend taking a Land Cruiser or anything bigger, no shame for a super jeep.
F985 advice from the local
“We just went up F985 a couple of weeks ago on a super jeep tour. The road takes you all the way up to the station for snowmobile tours on Vatnajökull, where it ends. I saw smaller vehicles driving on the road, so it would appear that you can drive it under ‘normal’ conditions in summer, but be advised that it is narrow and windy and there is always the possibility of a HUGE truck coming around the corner at you.
The views are amazing on this road, especially as you get further up. Our super jeep guide kept going even when the road didn’t, bringing us through the snow and up onto the glacier for views across the top of Iceland. “
F985 video drive-through
214 – Kerlingardalvegur
Road 214 leads to one of the most beautiful hiking areas in Iceland called Þakgil, or Thakgil. The road to Thakgil is adventurous and beautiful and would be worth driving even if you decide not to hike in the area. The surrounding landscapes form a scenic combination of lush green hills and volcanic black ash.
Is there a river crossing on Road 214?
There’s no river crossing on road 214 to Þakgil campsite. The road is just very bumpy and full of big holes.
Road 214 Kerlingardalvegur to Þakgil on a beautiful sunny day.
What car do I need for Road 214?
When Road 214 is open in summer, you officially do not need any special car to drive it, any 2wd car should be sufficient. That being said, the road is so bumpy, we better recommend a car with high enough ground clearance, i.e. Dacia Duster and bigger. Small cars may struggle and need to be very careful not to scrape their bottoms.
Not sure what type of car to choose? Feel free to read how to choose a proper car or how to pick the best Icelandic car rental insurance. We also collaborate with Icelandic car rental companies to give you a discount and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.
Road 214 video drive-through
558 – Berserkjahraunsvegur
558 advice from the local
“Berserkjahraun is located on the Snæfellsnes peninsula in Western Iceland. It’s a 4000-year-old lava field and the twisty unpaved road going through it is called Berserkjahraunsvegur (558). It’s only 10.6 kilometers (6,5 miles) long but offers breathtakingly beautiful views and landscape. 558 is doable with a passenger car, even though there are some bumpy sections. “
Since road 612 is officially not an F-road, it also doesn’t contain any river crossings. Other challenges are present, though.
Breiðavík beach next to road 612
What car do I need for Road 612?
Officially, 612 is accessible by any 2wd car. I do recommend a 4wd though, at least a smaller one. The road eventually gets rough and you may damage the undercarriage of your car if its ground clearance isn’t big enough.
The last part of Örlygshafnarvegur is a rough, narrow gravel road with many potholes, leading across the mountainous area and sometimes even next to the coastal edge simultaneously. It’s definitely doable by any 4wd (not sure how it looks in rough weather, though). We also met several 2wd cars, but they were struggling at least. Sure, in good weather you can make the last part even with 2wd, it will just take you much longer than in 4wd and you will be probably blocking many 4wds waiting behind you.
Not sure what type of car to choose? Feel free to read how to choose a proper car or how to pick the best Icelandic car rental insurance. We also collaborate with Icelandic car rental companies to give you a discount and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.
622 – Svalvogavegur
622 definitely is one of the most thrilling driving experiences that Iceland has to offer. Shelf roads through cliffs, beautiful views, and then of course the bit below the sea level. A smaller 4×4 will NOT be a good option here
622 advice from the local
“First bit of 622 is paved and in good shape, it is after a “4×4 vehicles only” warning sign when things start to get interesting. The road gets super tight and narrow, as it’s carved inside a cliff. Drive this part slowly and carefully, as it’s wide enough only for one car – having a cliff on the left and a steep drop down on the right. There is also a danger of falling rocks.
And now to the exciting part of the main attraction of the road – the sketchy bit down at sea level. First, there is a quite steep descent and the road starts to go between the sea and the cliffs. But soon it gets very narrow and sometimes we were basically kind of driving beneath the cliff, exposed to the waves crashing against the road. With a high tide, this part of the road can easily be underwater.
So, it is super important to be informed about the weather conditions while being on that road, as there is no help near and mobile connection is very limited. During our drive, the weather wasn’t the calmest and there were waves partly crashing onto the road, but we got through there in one piece. Also, this section is super rocky and bumpy and needs to be driven with extra care.”
622 video drive-through
624 – Ingjaldssandsvegur
624 advice from the local
“624 (Ingjaldssandsvegur) is a mountain road located in the northwestern part of the Westfjords region in Iceland. It starts from Highway 60 (Vestfjarðavegur), runs over a mountain, and ends up at Ingjaldssandur valley. The highest elevation of the road is 508 meters (1667 feet) and it’s passable only during the summer months.
The mountain pass is quite steep at some places, but the road is generally in good condition and shouldn’t be a problem for a simple crossover for example.”
624 video drive-through
630 – Skálavíkurvegur
630 advice from the local
“There is no winter service for 630, so the road is accessible only during the summer months. But despite being unpaved and opened only for some time during the year, the road itself is in good condition and easily accessible for simple passenger vehicles without 4WD.
A really exciting place near this route is Bolafjall Mountain, which is 635 meters (2086 ft) high. But it’s worth mentioning that weather can often be very foggy and cloudy up there and we were waiting three days for our shot, always rescheduling and aiming for the sunshine and clear sky. It’s definitely not pointless to go there when cloudy, you can still check out the Latrar Air Station and experience the tight mountain road (in that case with very poor visibility). But I’d say the views over the area are at least 60% of the experience up there.”
630 video drive-through
635 – Snæfjallastrandarvegur
635 advice from the local
“635 is unpaved, but it’s easily passable for a simple passenger vehicle (at least during the summer months!). I highly recommend stopping for a coffee break or lunch at Steinshús if you happen to be on this road. However, it’s worth mentioning that the cafe it’s not open all year round.
A track going towards Drangjökull glacier is also located in the middle of 635. You can drive on the trail until a parking spot and from there on it’s possible to hike all the way to the glacier.
A tiny cute church called Udalaskirkja is at the very end of the road. In my opinion, 635 isn’t as exciting a driving experience as road 643 for example, but it’s still a nice drive if you have some spare time to spend in Westfjords.“
635 video drive-through
643 – Strandavegur
Road 643 or Strandavegur is the only road leading to the legendary Krossneslaug hot spring. It is the terminal road of the area.
643 is a very scenic coastal drive and not an easy one. I highly recommend taking it, though because it’s a great experience. Feel free to read about our detailed experience with 643 here and in our journey diary.
Is there a river crossing on road 643?
Since road 643 is officially not an F-road, it also doesn’t contain any river crossings. Other challenges are present, though.
Overview of Strandavegur, a.k.a. Road 643
What car do I need for Road 643?
Road 643 heading towards Krossneslaug is definitely doable by any SUV in summer and definitely was doable by our Dacia Duster. Officially, you’re allowed to drive the road even with a normal 2wd car. However, this is one of the very few “normal” roads in Iceland, where I don’t recommend using a 2wd car. There are just too many potholes for it. Yes, you can do it also with 2wd, but take a lot of additional time. We’ve done it in about 2 hours (one way) and I would say with 2wd it’s additional 1-2 hours.
Not sure what type of car to choose? Feel free to read how to choose a proper car or how to pick the best Icelandic car rental insurance. We also collaborate with Icelandic car rental companies to give you a discount and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.
832 – Vaðlaheiðarvegur
832 advice from the local
“Vaðlaheiðarvegur is an old mountain pass over Vaðlaheiði mountain in North Iceland. There are three ways to get from Akureyri to North-East Iceland. The first one is a paid tunnel on the ring road, the second one is a combination of roads 84 and 83 and the third one is road 832.
Road 832 goes on top of the tunnel. It’s quite a fun alternative to the other options and shouldn’t be a problem to get through during the summer months. If you are afraid of mountain driving, don’t recommend it, though 🙂 It even has a small unbridged stream.”
832 video drive-through
939 – Öxi
Road 939 is a shortcut from Djupivogur towards Egilsstaðir and it’s passable only in summer.
In summer, road 939 is accessible by any 2wd car. For the more comforting feeling, I would drive it with at least a small 4wd SUV, though. The road is mountainous and steep and the weather may get ugly around the area.
Not sure what type of car to choose? Feel free to read how to choose a proper car or how to pick the best Icelandic car rental insurance. We also collaborate with Icelandic car rental companies to give you a discount and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.
939 video drive-through
Austurleið next to Þríhyrningsvatn
Austurleid is also the name of an entire F910 road. Here, however, I talk about the 20km long section between roads F905 and F907. We used Austurleid to traverse from Askja towards Studlagil canyon.
Is there a river crossing on Austurleið?
Austurleið by lake Þríhyrningsvatn didn’t contain any serious river crossings, just small rivers and small ponds of depth 20-30cm at max.
What car do I need for Austurleið?
Austurleid is a secluded F-road with all of the characteristics of any other general F-road – not well paved, not well maintained, potholes, gravel, but no serious river crossings. This makes Austurleid easy to pass.
Basically, any 4wd is sufficient for Austurleid. Just consider the connecting roads. If you are e.g. planning to visit Askja before or after, you will need at least a medium-sized SUV.
Map of the Bjólfur mountain track leading to the viewpoint and avalanche barriers
Bjólfur mountain track is a road leading close to the peak of the Bjólfur mountain with amazingly beautiful views over Seydisfjordur. The spot where Bjólfur track leads is marked on Google Maps as “Bjólfur avalanche barriers”, surprisingly, because there are avalanche barriers.
Bjólfur road is very steep and open strictly only when all the snow has melted. Bjólfur track is nothing for those with a fear of heights or small cars.
Is there a river crossing on Bjólfur track?
There’s no river crossing on Bjólfur road. However, be prepared for a steep, rough, and narrow road leading virtually directly to the top of a mountain.
Bjolfur mountain road
What car do I need for the Bjólfur track?
Although it’s possible to drive Bjólfur track in good weather in a medium-sized 4×4 car, we do recommend taking at least a large 4×4 car. There are some really steep parts at Bjólfur track. In case you meet a vehicle going in the other direction, or if you meet mr. snow on the road, it’s much safer to have a bigger car.
A warning – Bjólfur track is not even an F-road, it’s just a track! You can read more about what “track” means in Iceland. In short, this means the track is even more difficult than F-roads and most car insurance packages do not cover it. Always check with your car rental company if it’s covered, otherwise, you are going at your own risk! Secondly, drive the track only if you already have experience with F-roads!
Bjólfur track video drive
Botnlangalón track
Botnlangalón track map
Botnlangalón track is one of the worst roads in Iceland. It’s undoubtedly the worst track we’ve driven in Iceland. The track is one of the three access roads leading to lake Langisjór. And, as the name suggests, it will first get you to the remote lake of Botnlangalón. Then, you can either turn back and drive back via the neighboring Faxasund track or finish your journey towards Langisjór in the eastern direction.
So why would anyone even bother driving this crazy track? Well, except for a guarantee to be alone in moon-like surroundings, there’s a surprise near the end of the road. A scenic drive in a river bank directly through canyon made of broken stones.
Is there a river crossing on the Botnlangalón track?
Yes, there are many river crossings throughout the track. None of them is huge, though. The biggest typically qualify as medium-sized river crossings. Beware – there’s no guarantee some crossing may become much bigger in a particular year or season!
What car do I need for the Botnlangalón track?
River crossings are not the main problem of the Botnlangalón track. Road quality is! The track is barely maintained, with huge holes, steep and uneven parts. A typical scenario involves a steep ascent combined with a hole slalom followed by “I-cannot-see-in-front-of-me” steep descent of similar quality. Take nothing less than a super jeep in here. Even our modified Land Cruiser struggled here and almost didn’t make it!
A warning – Botnlangalón track is not even an F-road, it’s just a track! You can read more about what “track” means in Iceland. In short, this means the track is even more difficult than F-roads and most car insurance packages do not cover it. Always check with your car rental company if it’s covered, otherwise, you are going at your own risk! Secondly, this track is only for very experienced drivers aware of all risks!
Botnlangalón track video drive
Emstrur track
Emstrur track leads to one of the popular huts along the Laugavegur trail called Emstrur-Botnár hut (or Emstruskáli in Icelandic). Emstrur track also leads to the best (eastern) viewpoint of an amazingly beautiful Markarfljótsgljúfur Canyon. There are three branches of the track – the eastern one, the northern one, and the western one.
Here is the article where we write in detail about how we drove the Emstrur track. We drove the northern branch on our way there and a western branch on our way back. The western branch was a nightmare 🙂
Is there a river crossing on the Emstrur track?
There is no river crossing on Emstrur track. There are several other challenges, though. See below.
What car do I need for the Emstrur track?
You need a big 4×4 car, such as Land Cruiser, at minimum. We, however, better recommend driving a super jeep with high clearance. Although the Emstrur track doesn’t have any river crossings, it is steep and very uneven, with big sharp boulders every now and then. There are also pretty big holes in the road, even our modified Land Cruiser struggled at times when we drove the road.
A big warning – the Emstrur track is not even an F-road, it’s just a track! You can read more about what “track” means in Iceland. In short, this means the track is even more difficult than F-roads and most car insurance packages do not cover it. Always check with your car rental company if it’s covered, otherwise, you are going at your own risk! Secondly, drive the track only if you already have experience with F-roads!
Emstrur track video drive
Faxasund track
Faxasund track map
Faxasund track is the second most difficult access road leading to lake Langisjór. The main attraction of the track is its remoteness and harsh, yet fascinating, surroundings.
Is there a river crossing on the Faxasund track?
Yes, there are severalriver crossings along Faxasund. They typically don’t get bigger than just medium-sized river crossings, but there’s never a guarantee for this.
What car do I need for the Faxasund track?
We recommend a super jeep. A skilled driver may be able to pass with a large 4×4 like Land Cruiser or Hilux, but only in ideal conditions.
Similarly to Botnlangalón track, the main obstacle of this road is not river fords. The track terrain is the issue. The worst part of Faxasund is located near the junction with F208. It consists of thousands of sharp stones, some of them being too big to just drive on. Big ground clearance and slalom skills are required.
A warning – Faxasund track is not even an F-road, it’s just a track! You can read more about what “track” means in Iceland. In short, this means the track is even more difficult than F-roads and most car insurance packages do not cover it. Always check with your car rental company if it’s covered, otherwise, you are going at your own risk! Secondly, drive the track only if you already have experience with F-roads!
Faxasund track video drive
Gígjökull track
Gígjökull track is a detour from the road F249 (Þórsmerkurvegur) leading to Thórsmörk. Gígjökull track will (as its name suggests) take you to one of the glacier tongues – Gígjökull glacier tongue. Many guided tours make a stop here. Here is the article where we write in detail about how we drove the Gígjökull track.
Is there a river crossing on the Gígjökull track?
Yes, there are 1-3 fast-flowing medium-sized rivers (depending on whether you go from the west or from the east, there are 2 branches of the Gigjokull track).
What car do I need for the Gígjökull track?
You need a big 4×4 car, such as Land Cruiser, at minimum. We, however, better recommend driving a super jeep with high clearance.
Gígjökull glacier and river crossings
A big warning – Gígjökull track is not even an F-road, it’s just a track! You can read more about what “track” means in Iceland. In short, this means the track is even more difficult than F-roads and most car insurance packages do not cover it. Always check with your car rental company if it’s covered, otherwise, you are going at your own risk! Secondly, drive the track only if you already have experience with F-roads!
There is no river crossing on the Hekla track. There are several other challenges, though. See below.
What car do I need for the Hekla track?
Although there are no river crossings, expect very steep and uneven terrain to drive on. The most difficult part is the last kilometer, which makes for a very steep final ascent toward the Hekla volcano. This part of the Hekla track is one of the steepest roads you can find in Iceland. It can be very dangerous when driven improperly.
You need a big 4×4 car, such as Land Cruiser, at minimum. We, however, better recommend driving a super jeep with high ground clearance for the whole area. Is it possible to drive the Hekla F-road in Dacia Duster? Well, everything is possible – at least once. But it is simply irresponsible because there’s a high chance you’re gonna damage the car and nobody could come to rescue you.
A big warning – Hekla track is not even an F-road, it’s just a track! You can read more about what “track” means in Iceland. In short, this means the track is even more difficult than F-roads and most car insurance packages do not cover it. Always check with your car rental company if it’s covered, otherwise, you are going at your own risk! Secondly, drive the track only if you already have experience with F-roads!
Hungurfit track is probably the most amazing, remote, versatile, and challenging track (yes all four at the same time) we’ve driven in Iceland. It is a “shortcut” from F261 to F210 through the inner Fjallabak highlands and there’s a Hungurfit hut and Króksskáli hut on the way.
Yes, there are many small to medium-sized river streams along the Hungurfit track. There’s also one pretty fast-flowing medium-to-big-sized river in the second half, closer to Hungurfit hut. This river crossing scared us a bit, but under good conditions, with proper experience and a big enough car, it’s doable.
What car do I need for the Hungurfit track?
You need a big 4×4 car, such as Land Cruiser, at minimum. We, however, better recommend driving a super jeep with high ground clearance.
Hungurfit road is versatile and challenging with probably all the challenges you can expect. There are steep parts, narrow parts, big potholes, river crossings, and sharp boulders and the road is totally remote and not serviced.
A big warning – the Hungurfit track is not even an F-road, it’s just a track! You can read more about what “track” means in Iceland. In short, this means the track is even more difficult than F-roads and most car insurance packages do not cover it. Always check with your car rental company if it’s covered, otherwise, you are going at your own risk! Secondly, drive the track only if you already have experience with F-roads!
Hungurfit track video drive
Hvannagil track
Hvannagil valley road map
Hvannagil track is a more or less average gravel road leading along Hvannagil valley, close to the Lónsöræfi area and along the huge and picturesque riverbed of river Jökulsá í Lóni. Most visitors use the Hvannagil road to get to hiking trails in the beautiful Hvannagil golden valley.
You may get to the first half of the Hvannagil road – the start of the Hvannagil hike trail – by any car in the summer. The road leading to Hvannagil valley is semi-paved and narrow but without any river crossings. There’s no designated car park, but you can safely park your car in the huge gravel area. This is a good starting point for the hikes in the area.
After reaching Hvannagil valley car park, it’s possible to continue further following the dirt road, or better said a dirt track, along the river, deeper into the highlands. We drove the track for a few more kilometers with our Land Cruiser and you definitely need a 4wd car for this first part of the track. Maybe even a super jeep for the latter parts (which we haven’t driven yet).
A warning – the Hvannagil track is not even an F-road, it’s just a track! You can read more about what “track” means in Iceland. In short, this means the track is even more difficult than F-roads and most car insurance packages do not cover it. Always check with your car rental company if it’s covered, otherwise, you are going at your own risk! Secondly, drive the track only if you already have experience with F-roads!
Hvannagil track video drive
Jökuldalsvegur
Jokuldalsvegur connects road 923 with F907 and stretches along the entire length of Studlagil canyon. It’s a semi-paved non-F-road, so you may basically treat it as a normal, but old road of worse quality.
Is there a river crossing on Jökuldalsvegur?
Since Jokuldalsvegur is not an F-road, it also doesn’t contain any river crossings. Other challenges are present, though.
What car do I need for Jökuldalsvegur?
If you aim only for Jokuldalsvegur (e.g. you want to visit Studlagil canyon), any car would be fine. Jokuldalsvegur is a bit rough compared to normal roads, but definitely doable also with a 2wd car.
If you, however, aim to combine your trip with visiting Askja, go for at least a medium-sized 4wd car.
Krakatindur track is a rough dirt track that leads through the inner highlands of the northern Fjallabak reserve, in between Hekla and Rauðufossar waterfall. Krakatindur track leads to the dark and remote mountain called Krakatindur (that’s why its name is surprisingly the same).
Is there a river crossing on the Krakatindur track?
There is no river crossing on the Krakatindur track. There are several other challenges, though. See below.
Krakatindur track near Hekla. Watch out for your car’s ground clearance!
What car do I need for the Krakatindur track?
Although there is no river crossing on the Krakatindur track, it is very rough, and uneven, with huge potholes, narrow passages, no road service at all, and totally remote. Even our modified Land Cruiser was struggling at times with some parts of the road, so please don’t go in here with cars like Subaru Forester or Suzuki Jimny…
You need a big 4×4 car, such as Land Cruiser, at minimum. We, however, better recommend driving a super jeep with high ground clearance for the whole area. Is it possible to drive the road in Dacia Duster? Well, everything is possible – at least once. But it is simply irresponsible because there’s a high chance you’re gonna damage the car and nobody could come to rescue you.
A big warning – Krakatindur track is not even an F-road, it’s just a track! You can read more about what “track” means in Iceland. In short, this means the track is even more difficult than F-roads and most car insurance packages do not cover it. Always check with your car rental company if it’s covered, otherwise, you are going at your own risk! Secondly, drive the track only if you already have experience with F-roads!
Krakatindur track video drive
Möðrudalsleið
Modrudalsleid is a rough, semi-paved road that serves as a gate towards F-roads to Askja – F905 and F907.
We found out that the more the name of the road resembles some killing machine the rougher the actual road is, but that’s just what we’d observed. Möðrudalsleið is a quite good gravel road (compared to many other F-roads) so it’s possible to drive really fast.
Is there a river crossing on Möðrudalsleið?
Since Möðrudalsleið is officially not an F-road, it also doesn’t contain any river crossings. Other challenges are present, though.
Möðrudalsleið road, the first gravel road you’re gonna encounter when coming from Egilsstaðir direction
What car do I need for Möðrudalsleið?
You may drive Modrudalsleid with basically any car. There are only small potholes, so even a 2wd car would be suitable. You will just have to drive slower because gravel may damage your car more easily if it has a very low ground clearance.
If you are planning to continue towards Askja, you will need a medium-sized 4wd car, though. Read more about that in the section where I write about F905 and F910.
Skaelingar track is an amazing alternative to road F235 leading to Langisjór lake. The track first takes you to the Skælingar hut (Skælingaskáli). Then the track turns into the Blautulón track, which leads along the edge of the picturesque lake Blautulón and then connects to the official Langisjór F-road F235.
Is there a river crossing on the Skælingar Blautulón track?
Yes, there is one medium-to-big river crossing, right in the beginning when you turn from F208 south (Fjallabaksleið Nyrðri), close to Eldgjá, to Skaelingar track. You will be driving a few tens of meters through the actual riverbed. Since the crossing is right in the beginning, you may just look at the crossing and if feeling unsure, better turn back and drive the regular F235 to Langisjór.
Besides this river crossing, there is also a legendary lake crossing! Yes, you hear it well, a lake crossing. You’re gonna be driving a few hundred meters via the edge of lake Blautulón. You need to be sure to drive not too far from the edge and at the same time not too close to it to damage your car with the nearby cliffs. This can be both fun and dangerous, so be sure to have proper experience and a car before trying it.
Between the Skælingar track and Blautulón track to Langisjór
What car do I need for Skælingar Blautulón track?
You need a big 4×4 car, such as Land Cruiser, at minimum. To be sure to drive the Skaelingar track even in bad weather, we better recommend driving a super jeep with high ground clearance for the whole area. Is it possible to drive the track in Dacia Duster? Well, everything is possible – at least once. But it is simply irresponsible because there’s a high chance you’re gonna damage the car and nobody could come to rescue you.
A big warning – Skælingar track is not even an F-road, it’s just a track! You can read more about what “track” means in Iceland. In short, this means the track is even more difficult than F-roads and most car insurance packages do not cover it. Always check with your car rental company if it’s covered, otherwise, you are going at your own risk! Secondly, drive the track only if you already have experience with F-roads!
Strútur track starts just west of Maelifell, the legendary picturesque mountain. It leads to Strútsskáli hut and also to many amazing hiking trails. There are trails to Rauðibotn crater lake, the trail to Hólmsárbotnar, or a beautiful trek to a wild hot spring in the highlands called Strútslaug.
Yes, you will have to cross several streams and one medium-to-big-sized calm river. You’re actually gonna drive roughly a hundred meters in the river itself, not just crossing it. This can be both fun and dangerous, so be sure to have proper experience and a car before trying it. And definitely read our river crossing guide.
Strutur track to Strutslaug in a foggy weather
What car do I need for the Strútur track?
You need a big 4×4 car, such as Land Cruiser, at minimum. We, however, better recommend driving a super jeep with high ground clearance for the whole area.
A big warning – Strútur track is not even an F-road, it’s just a track! You can read more about what “track” means in Iceland. In short, this means the track is even more difficult than F-roads and most car insurance packages do not cover it. Always check with your car rental company if it’s covered, otherwise, you are going at your own risk! Secondly, drive the track only if you already have experience with F-roads!
River crossings are the main challenge of Icelandic F-roads. If it wasn’t for them, 95% of F-roads would be easy to pass. However, they do exist and create a significant obstacle. Improper river crossings may cause huge and expensive damages to your car. In extreme situations, even your life may be at stake. That being said – prepare thoroughly for your river crossings! Here is a detailed guide on how to cross a river in Iceland.
With river crossings, it all comes down to HOW, WHERE and WITH WHAT.
By HOWI mean general rules for a safe river fording. It’s essential to adhere to them, no matter how big your car is.
By WHEREI mean where are you crossing. What is the type of river? How big is it? What is the season? How much did it rain recently?
By WITH WHAT I mean the type of vehicle you are operating. Generally said, the bigger the better – but it’s more complicated.
How to safely cross Icelandic rivers? (HOW)
Make a plan. Do you have a proper car? What types of rivers are in your way? Are you equipped sufficiently? Think before.
Check the road conditions. If they say impassable, don’t even try it yourself. Isak 4×4 can help you with their Convoy driver or sit-in guide. If they say passable, read further. What does it mean passable, impassable, and no winter service? Here is the explanation of Icelandic road states.
Examine the river.
So you arrived at the river. If you can see with your eyes that it’s a small river or even just a pond, you may usually proceed with passing. What’s a small river? Read below in “WHERE“.
If you can’t assess the depth with your eyes, find out physically. Go into the river. How are you supposed to do that in ice-cold water? Get inspired by how we’ve done it.
Alternatively, wait for someone else (ideally with a similar car) to pass.
Compare the river to your car. The essential thing is, whether your air intake is high enough above the water level. But that’s not the only thing. See below in “WITH WHAT“.
Stay inside yellow markers. Those mark the area allowed for crossing (and usually also shallowest). They are situated on the borders of a passable area.
Go for the shallowest part.
If it’s a medium-sized or even a bigger river, it’s really important to cross it through the shallowest part. This is usually NOT the exact middle of the river crossing, but rather its sides.
This is usually NOT where the river is calm – that’s typically the deep part. Better find a part where you can see the stream of river running into pebbles and cross on that pebbles.
Turn 4×4 mode on.
Drive slowly.
First, max second gear, around 10kph to create a little “wave” around your car. Ride that wave.
If you drive too quickly, water will splash into your engine and your car may be dead. See below in “WITH WHAT“.
Don’t stop. Don’t switch gears. If you do, you may not get the car going again. Don’t get scared by your car shaking inside the river, just go steady.
Down the stream. If it’s possible, go with the stream, not against it. This will lower the chances the water will get into your engine.
Stay near the rope. Sometimes there’s a rope in the river. It’s not there by coincidence. Rangers installed it there typically to indicate the shallowest part. Drive near the rope, this should be the best spot to cross the river.
What types of river crossings are in Iceland? (WHERE)
The basic categorization can be made according to the depth of the river crossing.
PONDS
Up to 20cm / 8 inches.
If the depth of a river crossing is this shallow, you don’t have to bother much about crossing at all. It’s doable with any car, even with a 2wd one.
SMALL
20 to 40cm / 8-16 inches.
Here some ground clearance of your car starts to make sense. I consider 40cm to be still a small river but it’s already a non-trivial crossing. If you do it wrong, you may end up like this.
MEDIUM
40 to 70cm / 16 to 28 inches.
This is already some decent river crossing. You will probably not get drowned but you may waste your car easily.
It’s still a manageable crossing though, even for beginners! You just have to adhere to river crossing rules strictly and drive a proper car.
I would avoid these at all costs if I was a river crossing beginner. Not only may you waste your car, but you could also get yourself seriously injured, if not killed.
You need to have a combination of a) proper car, b) adhering to river crossing rules, and c) experience
The depth of the river is the single most important factor when it comes to a river crossing. There are of course several other aspects influencing your fording:
Has it rained heavily for a few days? Add some centimeters on top of your expected river depth.
Is it just early summer? Glacial rivers will have substantially more water compared to the late summer.
What is the riverbed like? Is it stony or muddy? If it’s muddy, it will be harder for you to ford.
What car do I need to cross rivers? (WITH WHAT)
Ok now you know HOW to cross and WHERE will you be crossing. It’s time to get to WITH WHAT. A right car is essential. But how are you supposed to know what car is the right one? Of course, we are talking only about 4wd/4×4 now:
The bigger the ground clearance (and wheels), the better. Because of several reasons. Firstly, your air intake will be higher (see below). Secondly, the chances you will get stuck in a river are lower. Thirdly, the chances, you will damage your undercarriage are lower.
The higher the air intake, the better. Study this one carefully. The main risk with river crossings is flooding your engine with water (then the engine usually becomes dead). This happens once the water reaches an air intake of your car. The water level should be AT LEAST 10cm/4inch below your air intake!
The stronger engine, the better. Inside rivers, some additional horsepower may only help. BUT – use your horsepower on the lowest/2nd lowest gear only when crossing the rivers!
Snorkel is a plus. If your car has a snorkel installed, it basically deals with point number 2. It adds considerable height to your air intake. It’s not everything, though. You may have a snorkel, but with the too-low ground clearance, you could still get stuck in a bigger river.
When there are only PONDS in your way, you may basically choose any car.
When there are SMALL RIVERS in your way, ideally choose any SUV or 4wd car.
When there are already MEDIUM RIVERS in your way, choose your car wisely and better opt for at least a medium-sized SUV.
When there are BIG RIVERS in your way, either avoid them at all or if you really want to, then choose the super-jeep.
We also offer you FREE discount codes for several Icelandic car rental companies.
Example of the correct river crossing
Correct river crossing of Sydri Ofaera river on F233
Every river crossing in Iceland is specific, and road F233 is a nice example of it. Syðri-Ófæra river crossing is the biggest obstacle of the notoriously known F-road Álftavatnskrókur or F233. Sydri Ofaera is typically a big river and also a very specific and unmarked river fording. The correct crossing is not obvious at first glance, but locals know it well.
The trick is, you should NOT ford straight. Rather, you have to drive in a U-shaped pattern. BUT – not to the east where the river is deep, but to the west, where it is shallow. OK, and why not go straight? Because there are huge boulders in the way that could easily stop even a super jeep.
Example of how NOT to cross the river
The video below from our friend Lucas is a nice example of how NOT to cross the river in Iceland. The driver has done nearly everything wrong:
Drove through the deepest point (middle), instead of the shallowest parts (both sides where the ropes are)
The river depth was too deep for Dacia Duster (in the middle), the car almost died and the driver was just lucky the engine started again.
Blocked the road for another car, taking pictures and even being rude to them!
Driving too fast through the second river crossing.
Below is a beautiful example of possibly the biggest mistake you should avoid when crossing rivers in Iceland. Never go fast! You will flood your engine this way. Exactly as the guy below flooded his engine. The car was dead within a second.
Crossroads of the roads 60 and 63 or Bíldudalsvegur and Vestfjarðavegur
Summary
Worth visiting even with bad weather: yes, probably Interesting index: 2 – great (1-amazing, 2-great, 3-nice)
Bildudalsvegur is located in the western part of Westfjords. It’s one of the most scenic roads in Westfjords.
How to drive road 63, Bildudalsvegur
In summer, road 63 is accessible by any 2wd car. Read about how we chose our car. Or just get free discounts for your Icelandic car rental.
Road 63 consists of a combination of normal paved roads and semi-paved gravel roads with some potholes. And of a combination of mountain roads and coastal fjord roads. That means – absolutely OK with any 4wd and also fine with 2wd, you will just need to drive carefully and more slowly compared to Google Maps’ estimates.
Road 63 Bíldudalsvegur
Our experience with road 63
We were coming from the Dynjandi waterfall direction (road 60) and used the road to get to our final destination for that day – Látrabjarg cliffs.
General advice as for any other semi-paved Icelandic road applies – beware big potholes, beware sheep on the road, drive really carefully if it rains heavily or snows, beware blind corners on the roads and don’t stop in the middle of the road.
8. F347 TO KERLINGARFJOLL
F347 near Kerlingarfjöll mountain resort
Summary
Worth visiting even with bad weather: yes (not pleasant but should be ok to drive) Interesting index: 2 – great (1-amazing, 2-great, 3-nice)
F347 is the only road leading to magnificent Kerlingarfjoll area. The road itself and the surrounding landscapes are picturesque as well.
The toughest part of the drive to Kerlingarfjoll is the last ascent of F347 towards the main area of Hveradalir. It’s quite steep and we’d seen several cars turning back, being afraid of making the ascent with their car. If you are interested in details, read our guide on Kerlingarfjoll. To sum up, you definitely need a medium-sized SUV to reach Hveradalir (or some big guts).
F347 road next to Hveradalir hot spring area in Kerlingarfjoll
Our experience with F347
F347 doesn’t have any river crossings and is mostly pretty similar to F35. The closer you approach Kerlingarfjöll Mountain Resort, the more the road starts getting more mountainous and more interesting.
Once you reach the mountain resort, the entire scenery gets really picturesque. We decided to continue as close as possible to the epicentre of the area – Hveradalir – by car. That meant, to continue driving the steepest part of F347 to the end of the road, or, Hveradalir area.
F347 near Kerlingarfjöll mountain resort
Tips about F347
The final part of the F347 road is the most challenging one and probably the steepest we drove on in Iceland. Again, there are no river crossings, just the road is really bumpy and towards the end quite steep. However, in good weather (read – no snow, no heavy rain) it’s definitely doable by any medium-sized SUV and better, like our Dacia Duster. If you feel unsafe, go slowly, turn 4×4 on or watch someone else go first in front of you.
7. VESTFJARDAVEGUR 60 TO DYNJANDI
Road 60, or Vestfjarðavegur in Westfjords near Dynjandi waterfall on a sunny day
Summary
Worth visiting even with bad weather: yes, probably Interesting index: 1 – amazing (1-amazing, 2-great, 3-nice)
Vestfjardavegur is located in the western part of Westfjords. It’s one of the most scenic roads in Westfjords.
How to drive road 60, Vestfjardavegur
In summer, road 60 is accessible by any 2wd car. Read about how we chose our car. Or just get free discounts for your Icelandic car rental.
It’s a kind of semi-paved road with occasional potholes, so definitely not the best, but not an F-road as well. It’s doable by 2wd, you’ll just have to drive carefully and more slowly than Google times suggest.
Road 60 (Vestfjarðavegur) between Þingeyri and Flókalundur
Our experience with road 60
We were coming from the Thyngeiri direction and used the road to get to Dynjandi waterfall and then towards our westernmost destination – Látrabjarg cliffs.
Road 60 is a beautiful fjord road. It firstly crosses the mountainous landscapes and then leads along the coastline. Views along the road are amazing and unique, though. The road is definitely worth taking.
Road 60, or Vestfjarðavegur in Westfjords towards Dynjandi waterfall
Tips about Vestfjardavegur
General advice as for any other semi-paved Icelandic road applies – beware big potholes, beware sheep on the road, drive really carefully if it rains heavily or snows, beware blind corners on the roads and don’t stop in the middle of the road.
6. ORLYGSHAFNARVEGUR 612 TO LATRABJARG
Breiðavík beach next to the road 612
Summary
Worth visiting even with bad weather: no, probably Interesting index: 1 – amazing (1-amazing, 2-great, 3-nice)
How to drive road 612, Örlygshafnarvegur
Officially, 612 is accessible by any 2wd car. I do recommend a 4wd though, at least a smaller one. The road eventually gets rough and you may damage the undercarriage of your car if its ground clearance isn’t big enough. Read about how we chose our car. Or just get free discounts for your Icelandic car rental.
The last part of Örlygshafnarvegur is a rough, narrow gravel road with many potholes, leading across the mountainous area and sometimes even next to the coastal edge simultaneously. It’s definitely doable by any 4wd (not sure how it looks in rough weather, though). We also met several 2wd cars, but they were struggling at least. Sure, in good weather you can make the last part even with 2wd, it will just take you much longer than in 4wd and you will be probably blocking many 4wds waiting behind you.
Our experience with road 612
The “rough part” of 612 is not very long, so if you are patient enough, feel free to take it even in 2wd. Views along the road are breath-taking. You will pass a shipwreck, a plane wreck, a car scrap yard, some small settlements and, most importantly, the picturesque Breiðavík beach. Is Orlygshafnarvegur dangerous? No, just don’t look down too much when driving near the edge of the mountain 🙂
Tips about Orlygshafnarvegur
We had already realized that the more difficult the name of the road in Iceland is to pronounce, the shittier the actual road will be. Orlygshafnarvegur was in line with this newly found rule of ours. Road 612 starts neatly but gets rougher and rougher with each additional kilometre.
5. OXI 939 TO EGILSSTADIR
Icelandic crazy Oxi road 939
Summary
Worth visiting even with bad weather: yes, probably Interesting index: 1 – amazing (1-amazing, 2-great, 3-nice)
Oxi was the most surprising road we had driven. Öxi is a shortcut in the southeastern part of Iceland from Djupivogur towards Egilsstadir.
How to drive road 939, Oxi
In summer, Oxi is accessible by any 2wd car. For the more comforting feeling, I would drive it with at least a small 4wd SUV, though. The road is mountainous, steep and the weather may get ugly around the area.
We turned to 939, or the so-called “Öxi road”, not knowing at that time why the road has a name. Many other roads in Iceland don’t have any name. Well, we shortly found out why. Öxi road looked like a former F-road, or at least something very similar to the F-road. It was a gravel road with a lot of potholes and right after turning to it, it started to be quite steep.
This was the time when we finally realized why this road has a name. Öxi was a quite steep mountain road with lots of turns, potholes and beautiful scenery alongside it. I’d never read about it beforehand, but whatever, that’s Iceland, right? Our weather wasn’t ideal at all, with fog getting heavier and rain starting to pour persistently. Hence, the entire Öxi experience had become quite scary at some point, with my girlfriend starting to have a facial expression as if she were in a horror movie. The entire drive took some fair 45 minutes in these weather conditions.
Tips about Oxi
Soon after driving on Öxi (from the south), we reached a small car park where we saw several people taking pictures. This spotwasn’t marked on the Google maps, nor had I read anything about it. Nevertheless, we parked our car, got out of it and realized why do so many people take pictures.
An amazingly picturesque valley full of waterfalls, fairytale-like green moss and cliffs emerged in front of us. Out of this world experience once again. One of the most beautiful photo spots of our entire trip. It was probably possible even to come closer to the waterfall valley by walking, but we remained satisfied with the look we just saw and continued through Öxi further.
4. STRANDAVEGUR 643 TO KROSSNESLAUG
Overview of Strandavegur, a.k.a. road 643
Summary
Worth visiting even with bad weather: yes, hopefully Interesting index: 1 – amazing (1-amazing, 2-great, 3-nice)
Road 643 or Strandavegur is the only road leading to legendary Krossneslaug hot spring. It is the terminal road of the area.
How to drive road 643, Strandavegur
Road 643 heading towards Krossneslaug is definitely doable by any SUV in summer and definitely was doable by our Dacia Duster. Officially, you’re allowed to drive the road even with a normal 2wd car. However, road 643 is of the very few “normal” roads in Iceland, where I don’t recommend using a 2wd car. There are just too many potholes for it. Yes, you can do it also with 2wd, but take a lot of additional time. We’ve done it in about 2 hours (one way) and I would say with 2wd it’s additional 1-2 hours.
Road 643 belongs to one of the most breath-taking coastal roads I’ve ever driven. So, it’s definitely worth taking. There are numerous spots where you just have an urge to stop, soak up the atmosphere and take photos to remember it. It’s also almost deserted, we met a single-digit number of cars during our drive.
Beautiful views along Strandavegur, road 643
Strandavegur could easily be classified as an Icelandic F-road. It doesn’t contain any river crossings but it contains almost everything else an F-road may contain. Potholes, gravel, narrow passages, steep parts, driving on the edge of the cliffs, … When I had googled about the road, one review stated that it’s the most dangerous road the guy had ever driven. Well, I don’t agree with that, it’s not necessarily dangerous, but it may be a bit scary at some parts.
Surprise! Our first seals spotted on 643
Tips about Strandavegur
One of the highlights of the road was a moment when my girlfriend spotted a seal sunbathing on the rock in the sea. We stopped the soonest we could, got out of the car and observed a seal family enjoying their day under sunbeams. It was a once in a lifetime experience to spot wild seals out of the blue.
3. F905, F910 AND F894 TO ASKJA
F905 coming from Möðrudalsleið, towards Askja
Summary
Worth visiting even with bad weather: yes (not pleasant but worth the experience) Interesting index: 1 – amazing (1-amazing, 2-great, 3-nice)
The roads leading to Askja are one of the most out-of-this-world roads, and so are the landscapes surrounding them.
How to drive F905, F910 and F894
Choose your car wisely to get to Askja. There are 2 major medium-sized river crossings along these roads. You’re gonna need at least a small to medium-sized 4wd car to drive them, preferably a medium-sized 4wd. Read about how we chose our car. Or just get free discounts for your Icelandic car rental.
Once we turned to F905, a real adventure began. By “a real adventure” I don’t mean anything dangerous (at least with our dream weather it definitely wasn’t), just endless out of this world landscapesas if you were on another planet. F905 and the ones following were the most beautiful roads we drove and are definitely highlights of our entire Icelandic trip.
Different types of surface alternate between each other, each one the more beautiful than the one before. Gravel, clay, rocks, sand, sulphur – anything you can imagine, all of this surrounded by unforgettable views of the volcanic hills around. I don’t remember any river on F905 (maybe only some small ponds, which shouldn’t cause you any trouble at all).
Möðrudalsleið road, the first gravel road you’re gonna encounter when coming from Egilsstaðir direction
After spending some time on F905, the road turns into F910, which is very similar in its character to F905, just, once again a bit different. There are a few parts of the road where you’re going to drive literally on huge volcanic rocks and you have to drive really carefully not to damage your car – this is where a good 4×4 with high ground clearance happens to be useful. The most important part of an Icelandic F-road which you should pay attention to (as I wrote here) is the regular rivers and their existence on your road.
Vikraborgir car park, the closest point available on your route towards Askja/Víti crater
Once you arrive at Dreki huts, you may already leave your car here and go for 8km hike towards Viti and Öskjuvatn and you’d definitely enjoy the beautiful mountain area even more. What we did, was to come as close to the actual geothermal Víti lake as possible and spend most of our time there.
To do that, you have to take the F894 road, i.e. slight turn right coming from F910 direction, standing in Dreki huts spot. The road is really rough and rocky, with volcanic stones and rocks about everywhere. At the end of the road, you will reach the car park with another toilet booth, called the Vikraborgir car park. This is where you have to leave your car.
2. F208 SOUTH TO LANDMANNALAUGAR
Road F208, or Fjallabaksleið Nyrðri, after crossing with F235 towards Landmannalaugar
Summary
Worth visiting even with bad weather: no Interesting index: 1 – amazing (1-amazing, 2-great, 3-nice)
The southern part of F208 or Fjallabaksleið Nyrðri from Vik towards Landmannalaugar is one of the most beautiful Icelandic roads.
How to drive southern F208 from Vik
The southern part of Fjallabaksleið Nyrðri has everything that an Icelandic F-road may have – serious river crossings, narrow roads, potholes, gravel, sand, remoteness. You need a proper 4wd car, preferably at least a medium-sized SUV. Read about how we chose our car. Or just get free discounts for your Icelandic car rental.
There are several river crossings along the road, some of them smaller, some of them bigger. If you are interested in details about each significant river crossing, reach out for the detailed description of our journey.
F208, or Fjallabaksleið Nyrðri, after crossing with F235 towards Landmannalaugar
Our experience with southern F208
This is a once in a lifetime experience. I’ve never seen such out of this world stunning landscapes as on these roads. Southern F208, for me, was one of the TOP3 experiences in Iceland. Although driving the roads for some 6-7 hours we met just a handful of cars which is also a part of this secluded Icelandic experience. The wi-fi/cell network coverage sometimes works and sometimes not, so be prepared for that.
Road F208, south of Landmannalaugar, coming from Vik direction
After the junction of F208 and F235, you will be driving north to reach the Landmannalaugar. Along this part of the road, even more surreal landscapes continued to surround us and the journey was more than just worth it – it was spectacular.
There are several river crossings along the road, some of them smaller, some of them bigger. If you are interested in details about each significant river crossing, reach out for the detailed description of our journey.
Road F208, or Fjallabaksleið Nyrðri, south of Landmannalaugar, coming from Vik direction
Tips about southern Fjallabaksleið Nyrðri
Definitely take your time, start your ride early in the morning and focus on driving for 100% of the time. All of the rules for F-roads driving and river crossing do apply for southern F208. Once you are prepared and choose your car wisely, don’t be afraid though. The road is doable with the right car even if you are not that much experienced in highlands driving.
I also highly recommend a detour towards Langisjor lake via F235. See below.
1. F235 TO LANGISJOR
Out of this world landscapes surrounding F235 road towards Langisjór lake
Summary
Worth visiting even with bad weather: no Interesting index: 1 – amazing (1-amazing, 2-great, 3-nice)
F235 towards Langisjor was the most beautiful and out-of-this-world road I’ve ever driven.
How to drive F235
When it comes to difficulties and obstacles, F235 is pretty similar to the southern part of F208. That means you’re gonna encounter rough terrain, river crossings (although a bit smaller compared to serious medium-sized ones at F208), sand and potholes. You need a proper 4wd car, preferably at least a medium-sized SUV. Read about how we chose our car. Or just get free discounts for your Icelandic car rental.
Surreal landscapes on road F235 towards Langisjór lake
Our experience with F235
Landscapes everywhere along the road are out of this world and no words can precisely describe them. We were the only car driving the road. We reached the “Langisjór camping”, or at least that’s what Google maps said, which was just a small cottage with 2 nice modern toilets at the end of the world.
F235 was a great fit for my itinerary – non-touristy, amazing views, not so long, out of this world landscapes everywhere around. Beware of the bad weather though. If it gets too foggy, you won’t see a thing and your experience, although exciting thanks to driving, would deteriorate considerably.
If you are interested in details about specific river crossings, different parts of F208 and how to get to Langisjor and Sveinstindur, reach out for the detailed description of our journey.
This you should NOT do (stand on the moss). Road F235 after turning right from F208 towards Langisjór lake
Tips about F235
We continued back via the same F235 road to continue our journey to Landmannalaugar. Surely there are other roads to get back, but these are the roads you can’t find on Google maps, so I called them “unmarked roads” like the one towards Blautalón lake described for example here. Should we have a bigger car I would probably use a different way back as I usually try to avoid going on the same road twice.
Distance from car park: 2 minutes Time spent at: 30-45 minutes Worth visiting even with bad weather: yes Physical condition needed: little Interesting index: 2 – great (1-amazing, 2-great, 3-nice)
Reykjafjardarlaug is a nice hot spring in the middle of nowhere, right next to the Road 63 in Westfjords.
How to get to Reykjafjardarlaug
In summer, Reykjafjardarlaug is accessible by any 2wd car. Although the road 63 leading there is zig-zag and secluded, it should be alright to reach with a bit of careful driving. Read about how we chose our car. Or just get free discounts for your Icelandic car rental.
Our experience with Reykjafjardarlaug
We made just a quick stop at the hot spring because we had already visited several of them at that time and headed elsewhere on that day. Reykjafjardarlaug is nevertheless nice and pleasant, just maybe not that exceptional compared to some other ones in Iceland. As someone had put it: “3 out of 5 Icelandic stars, i.e. 5 out of 5 anywhere else in the world”.
Tips about Reykjafjardarlaug
There are actually 2 places for bathing in here. First one is the man-made artificial pool with regulated water temperature. The second one is the actual source of the hot water itself – a wild hot spring with varying temperature (usually much hotter). This secret Reykjafjardarlaug hot spring lies nearby.
Bathing is free of charge, we didn’t notice any donation box, but there may be one.
8. HVERAVELLIR
The only Hveravellir hot spring for bathing. Image: courtesy of hiticeland.com
Summary
Distance from car park: 2 minutes (hot spring) Time spent at: 1 hour Worth visiting even with bad weather: yes Physical condition needed: little Interesting index: 3 – nice (1-amazing, 2-great, 3-nice)
Hveravellir is a hot spring area in the middle of F35 road with one nice free hot spring available for bathing.
How to get to Hveravellir
You need a 4wd car to access the Hveravellir area. The road F35 (Kjalvegur) is not hard to drive on, though. You may rent basically any 4wd car to drive it. Read about how we chose our car. Or just get free discounts for your Icelandic car rental.
Once you leave F35 towards Hveravellir, it’s just a short, easy drive and you will soon find a parking lot in front of a small restaurant.
Our experience with Hveravellir
Almost next to the parking lot lies a nice, public, free hot spring.
Since it is so close to the car park, there’s a high chance someone will be inside most of the time. Nevertheless, the hot spring is big enough and water is pleasantly hot, with some 38°C (according to my professional assessment). On the other hand, air temperature felt really cold, something like 7-8°C even in the middle of August. So again – be prepared for that – you are in the middle of Iceland, in highlands.
I guess my expectations for Hveravellir were too big (read further to find out why). When planning our trip, I had read that there are “several hot springs in the Hveravellir area”. Moreover, seeing pictures like this had instantly made me a Hveravellir enthusiast. Well, the reality was a bit different.
Tips about Hveravellir
There were supposed to be “several hot springs” so let’s go find the other ones, we told ourselves. Hopefully with no people inside.
Sheep around Hveravellir trail
We were hiking for 1 hour around the entire area, but we haven’t found any hot springs, other than the main one near the parking lot. We don’t have anything against walking, but the entire area was pretty uneventful, with nothing interesting to observe. We said hello to several sheep along the way, but even those didn’t know where the other hot springs were.
We finally also asked the local at the restaurant who just confirmed our realization by saying: “you can bath only in this hot spring, next to the car park. There may be also some other hot springs further away, but you shouldn’t bath there”.
7. LYSUHOLSLAUG
Lýsuhólslaug hot spring
Summary
Distance from car park: 0 minutes Time spent at: 0,5 to 2 hours Worth visiting even with bad weather: yes Physical condition needed: little Interesting index: 2 – great (1-amazing, 2-great, 3-nice)
Lysuholslaug is a nice, man-made and man-maintained hot spring, hidden in the southern part of Snaefellsnes peninsula.
How to get to Lysuholslaug
Lysuholslaug is easily accessible by any 2wd car. Read about how we chose our car. Or just get free discounts for your Icelandic car rental.
Don’t get fooled by Google that you have to walk to Lysuholslaug. You don’t have to. There’s a road leading right next to the hot spring area. It’s just not marked on the Google Maps (see below).
Lýsuhólslaug hot spring as indicated on Google Maps. The road to it does exist, though.
Our experience with Lysuholslaug
Bathing in Lysuholslaug is definitely a very pleasant activity when the weather sucks. We really enjoyed it, despite the place not being anywhere near as picturesque as Hrunalaug or some other “wilder” hot springs. So, it depends on your preference, weather (and who knows what else), whether it’s worth making a detour for you. For us it definitely was.
Other than us, there was just one other couple using the pools at the time of our visit. We guess the main reason was, once again, Covid pandemic, rather than the place being unpopular.
Tips about Lysuholslaug
There are 2 small hot tubes and 1 bigger pool. All of them are the so-called “sea-weed baths”. That means, they look to be dirty, because of the sea-weeds everywhere. The ground and walls of the pool are also slippery, because of sea-weeds.
The big pool has water with the temperature of around 32°C (according to my professional assessment, i.e. read “just guessing”). Water in the small hot tubes is much hotter, around 36-38°C in the first of them and around 39-41°C in the hottest one. It’s definitely not recommended to stay in the hottest one for too long.
The hot spring is a paid one – 1000ISK/person, i.e. some 6-7eur.
6. LANDMANNALAUGAR
Landmannalaugar hot spring. Picture taken from https://www.foodiebaker.com/day-4-iceland-travelogue/
Summary
Distance from car park: 5-7 minutes from both car parks (in camp and before camp) Time spent at: 20-40 minutes Worth visiting even with bad weather: yes Physical condition needed: little to medium Interesting index: 1 – amazing (1-amazing, 2-great, 3-nice)
Landmannalaugar hot spring (sometimes also called Brennisteinsalda hot spring) is the only hot spring suitable for bathing in the main Landmannalaugar area.
How to get to Landmannalaugar hot spring
You need a proper 4wd car to reach Landmannalaugar and Brennisteinsalda hot spring. However, there’s a huge difference whether you come from the northern side of F208 or southern side.
Read more about these different routes in our F-road guide. Read also about how we chose our car, as this is essential for your Icelandic trip. Or just get free discounts for your Icelandic car rental.
Landmannalaugar Brennisteinsalda campsite on the summer evening
Our experience with Landmannalaugar hot spring
Landmannalaugar hot spring is the only real natural hot spring (without any human interference) we’ve seen in Iceland so it’s definitely worth trying. It’s basically a stream of some really hot water (>50°C) flowing into the small river and you may bath in this river.
The river actually isn’t so hot, maybe around some 26-30°C which doesn’t feel so fantastic when it’s like 5-10°C outside. But the more you approach the actual hot stream, the warmer it gets. The warmest place is, of course, just near the place where the stream flows into the water. This is the place you want to aim for (but so will all your fellow co-campers). You will probably have to wait some time in a queue to get to that source. There’s also another smaller stream a few meters to the right, so these 2 streams flowing into the river are the hottest spots.
Tips about Landmannalaugar hot spring
The hot spring is free to use. There’s no place to change your clothes, just a wooden structure to put leave your clothes on, which also serves as an entrance to the hot river.
The river is also really shallow, only some 40-70cm deep, so you basically have to lie in it to be covered by water. Nevertheless, it’s definitely worth the experience and it’s a really cool thing to try as Brennisteinsalda hotpot is one of the very few “wild” hot springs not artificially modified by locals.
5. HORGSHLIDARLAUG
Hörgshliðarlaug hot spring in the heart of fjord
Summary
Distance from car park: 2 minutes Time spent at: 10-30 minutes Worth visiting even with bad weather: yes Physical condition needed: little Interesting index: 2 – great (1-amazing, 2-great, 3-nice)
Hörgshliðarlaug is a nice remote hot spring hidden in one of the fjords in the northern part of Westfjords.
How to get to Horgshlidarlaug
In summer, Hörgshliðarlaug is accessible by any 2wd car. Read about how we chose our car. Or just get free discounts for your Icelandic car rental.
Not only tough to pronounce, but also tough to find, that’s Horgshlidarlaug. At the time of our visit, the road 633 was closed, so we had to use northern part of the road 61 and make a detour south (left) right before crossing the Mjóifjörður fjord.
Once we arrived at the point indicated on Google Maps, there were just a few rural settlements with old houses next to them and we didn’t see any hot pot. At one of the settlements, we spotted an old bath-tub, with the big sign “PRIVATE PROPERTY”. Hmm, maybe this is Hörgshliðarlaug? I stepped out of the car and headed towards the bath-tub. On a halfway there a local guy stopped me with a huge smile on his face. I asked whether this is Horgshlidarlaug and he just casually replied that this is his house and the hot spring is another 2 kilometres down the road. I guess we were not the first, nor the last tourists sneaking around his courtyard.
The actual hot spring Hörgshliðarlaug is 2 kilometres south from the spot indicated by Google Maps
Nevertheless, the guy was right (of course). So, in case it will not be corrected yet on Google Maps (and you couldn’t see any hot spring), just continue 2 kilometres south down the road. You will definitely see it on your right (when coming from the north) or on the left (when coming from the south). There’s no real car park, you have to stop next to the road (but there’s a wider part of the road near hot spring).
Our experience with Horgshlidarlaug
Horgshlidarlaug is a dirty, old, full of seaweed hot spring with true Icelandic atmosphere. It lies right in the heart of the fjord, so you will be able to watch the fjord while soaking in the hot pot. If you are lucky enough, there may even be seals around (we haven’t seen any though).
Horgshlidarlaug hotpot and a changing room
At the time of our visit, there were 2 groups of tourists already bathing in the hot spring. Hence, we waited 10 minutes, and afterwards, the hot spring became empty. Hörgshliðarlaug is definitely an original and picturesque place, nevertheless, we liked some other (see below) hot springs even more.
Tips about Horgshlidarlaug
There’s an old shelter next to the hot spring, which serves as a changing room. If you are into “sauna style” bathing, you may even alternate between bathing in the hot spring and bathing in the ice-cold sea. Water in the hot spring is very pleasant though, having some 36°C (according to my professional, read as „guessed“, assessment).
Hot spring is free to use, I don’t remember a donation box next to it, but there may have been one.
4. HELLULAUG
Hellulaug hot spring
Summary
Distance from car park: 2-3 minutes Time spent at: 15-45 minutes Worth visiting even with bad weather: yes Physical condition needed: little Interesting index: 1 – amazing (1-amazing, 2-great, 3-nice)
Hellulaug is a nice hot spring situated in one of the fjords in the southern part of Westfjords.
How to get to Hellulaug
In summer, Hellulaug is accessible by any 2wd car. Read about how we chose our car. Or just get free discounts for your Icelandic car rental.
You can get to Hellulaug from the main road 60. Just be sure to finally turn on Hellulaugavegur andend up here, because there’s one other (wrong) spot on Google maps. You will leave your car at a small, gravel parking lot. From there you have to descent about 1 minute to reach the pool itself.
Hellulaug hotpot
Our experience with Hellulaug
At the time of our visit, it had already started to rain. We changed our clothes inside our car and virtually ran in the rain towards the pool. There were two local girls (this time without cocaine) already bathing there (didn’t seem to leave any time soon).
The entire bathing experience was very nice. The water was pleasantly hot, but not too hot (some 34-36°C). It felt really comfortable to soak in the pool, while the rain poured down. Additionally, view from the hot spring is very nice, because of its location in the fjord. So you’re basically sitting in the hot spring looking at the fjord.
Tips about Hellulaug
Hellulaug is situated right in the heart of the fjord and it’s a man-made hotpot (water is being brought there by a pump). There’s no changing room, nor any shelter, but the hot spring is free of charge.
Well, if it rains, since there’s no shelter, some of your things will probably get wet, unless you cover them with something. We didn’t mind, though, because Hellulaug was probably the last stop of our trip.
3. KROSSNESLAUG
Krossneslaug
Summary
Distance from car park: 5 minutes Time spent at: 30-60 minutes Worth visiting even with bad weather: yes Physical condition needed: little Interesting index: 1 – amazing (1-amazing, 2-great, 3-nice)
Krossneslaug is a really unique, one-of-its-kind hot spring literally at the end of the world (or at least all Icelandic roads).
How to get to Krossneslaug
Although officially any 2wd car is allowed in here, I do recommend a 4wd car and some guts to reach Krossneslaug. Road 643 heading towards Krossneslaug could easily be classified as an Icelandic F-road. It doesn’t contain any river crossings but it contains almost everything else an F-road may contain. Potholes, gravel, narrow passages, steep parts, driving on the edge of the cliffs, …
Google Maps mark Krossneslaug quite precisely. They just don’t show that the “car park” (or better said the place next to the road where you may leave your car) is tens of meters above the pool. That means, you have to leave your car up, next to the road and you have to walk down the path to Krossneslaug itself. Only the owner of the pool has an access to reach the pool by car.
Our experience with Krossneslaug
Bathing in Krossneslaug is again a once in a lifetime experience. It definitely belongs to Top 3 of our Icelandic hot springs. When we arrived, there was no one else in the pool, only the owner performing maintenance of the place.
Views from Krossneslaug
Once in the pool, you will again feel like being in some kind of fairy tale. Just you, hot pool and view of the endless sea. The smaller, hotter bathtub even has a windshield (I guess for cases of severe weather?).
Before our departure, I asked the owner whether it does make economical sense to maintain such a pool at the end of the world. He just smiled and replied that from June till 1st half of August usually hundreds of people come per day. Even during Covid times, just their structure changed to more locals. OK, that surprised me, I guess it makes sense then.
Tips about Krossneslaug
Krossneslaug is a paid (1000ISK, i.e. 6-7Eur/person), man-made, hot water pool, utilising nearby hot spring water. It has a long history (1954) and 2 pools available for bathing. The bigger, rectangular pool with a water temperature of around 34°C and a smaller, more modern hot tub with a temperature of around 38°C. It is well maintained by the owner of the place, who also resides there usually from June until August each year. The entrance fee includes a changing room, toilets and showers, of course.
2. GUDRUNARLAUG
Shelter for changing clothes and Gudrunarlaug hot spring
Summary
Distance from car park: 5 minutes Time spent at: 30-60 minutes Worth visiting even with bad weather: yes Physical condition needed: little Interesting index: 1 – amazing (1-amazing, 2-great, 3-nice)
Guðrúnarlaug is one of the most picturesque hot springs in Iceland. It’s very well accessible.
How to get to Gudrunarlaug
In summer, Guðrúnarlaug is easily accessible by any 2wd car. Read about how we chose our car. Or just get free discounts for your Icelandic car rental.
Our experience with Gudrunarlaug
When we arrived at the parking lot, we saw just one couple bathing in the hot spring. We were already spoiled by travelling during Covid pandemic, in the sense that we had been alone at every other place we had visited. So, we decided to wait a bit once the couple finishes its bathing, which took about 5 minutes.
Yep, once again, we were alone in Icelandic hot spring, in August at 4 pm. The rain had already been pouring when we got out of our car. We really enjoyed Gudrunarlaug bathing, even despite (or thanks to?) rain getting heavier. The place with its surroundings is pretty cool and the water is pleasantly hot (some 36-38°C). Definitely worth visiting. It was one of the best hot springs we’ve bathed in.
Neighborhood of the Guðrúnarlaug hot spring
Tips about Gudrunarlaug
Guðrúnarlaug is definitely a bit more touristy compared to, for example, Lýsuhólslaug. The reason for that is its proximity to ring road and to Westfjords, i.e., it’s quite easily accessible. The same is true when it comes to access to the actual hot tube – it’s a 2-minute walk from the car park, which sits right next to it. Google Maps are also quite precise about the location of Gudrunarlaug, so feel free to orientate according to them.
Guðrúnarlaug is located next to the small rural campsite (we didn’t see anyone camping at the time of our visit, during Covid-19 times) and something which looked like a school. There’s an authentic wooden shelter (similar to the one next to Hrunalaug) serving as a changing room, right next to the pool. Hot spring is free to use, I don’t remember a donation box next to it, but there may have been one.
1. HRUNALAUG
Tranquil scenery of Hruni hot spring
Summary
Distance from car park: 5 minutes Time spent at: 20-60 minutes Worth visiting even with bad weather: yes, definitely Physical condition needed: little Interesting index: 1 – amazing (1-amazing, 2-great, 3-nice)
How to get to Hrunalaug
Hrunalaug (or Hruni) is easily accessible by any 2wd car. Read about how we chose our car. Or just get free discounts for your Icelandic car rental.
Use Google maps. They were quite precise about the location. There’s actually a car park (see attached picture) near the hot spring. From the “car park” it’s about 3 minutes of walk. You shouldn’t get lost, as far as I can remember there’s even a sign pointing towards hot spring.
Hrunalaug “car park”
Our experience with Hrunalaug
I can confidently nominate Hruni hot spring for winning the award of most authentic Icelandic hot spring. It is, without doubt, the best hot spring we’ve ever been to. Thanks to many aspects. Firstly, it’s a place secluded from anything else with no buildings or roads around. Secondly, the landscape surrounding it is truly peaceful and picturesque. Thirdly, the hot pot itself looks like to be from some kind of fairy-tale. And, importantly, the water (in the main one) is pleasantly hot with some 38°C according to my professional (read amateur) assessment.
Once we got in, we really got carried away by the surrounding atmosphere. Just a slowly pouring rain, few sheep, endless grass and besides that just silence. Everything was tranquil, only until the new guest arrived at the hot spring. If you are into stories, feel free to read ours about meeting a naked Icelandic teenager possibly under drugs.
The main and the hottest hot spring in Hrunalaug
Tips about Hrunalaug
Once you arrive at the hot pot itself, you will realize there’s also a covered shelter for changing clothes! A very authentic one 🙂 The entire place is maintained by locals and as of 2024 has changed into a paid hot spring with opening hours. More info on Hrunalaug entrances here.
There are actually several pools, some of them smaller, some of them bigger. All pools do contain a heated water, but each one has different temperature. The hottest one is also the smallest and is the one right next to the shelter. It’s ideal for 2 people, and if you are OK with some squeezing even for 4.
Distance from car park: 2 minutes
Time spent at: 15-40 minutes
Worth visiting even with bad weather: yes, just beware dangerous waves Physical condition needed: little
Interesting index: 1 – amazing (1-amazing, 2-great, 3-nice)
Reynisfjara beach is a beautiful easy-to-reach beach just next to the ring road, in the south, near Vik.
The main viewpoint for the beach with famous basalt columns is located here. That’s where we visited the beach. However, you may enjoy the beauty of the beach from several more viewpoints. For example, the eastern trail, which continues towards Vik to another black sand beach. If you are going for the Dyrhoaley cliffs, then there’s also a western viewpoint, here.
Reynisfjara beach at 9pm in the evening
Our experience with Reynisfjara
Reynisfjara was one of the most beautiful beaches we’ve seen around entire Iceland so it’s definitely worth a visit. All – the beach itself, the sea waves (which may be deadly, so keep a safe distance) and the nearby rock formations are stunning. Beware the strong wind, which we had a chance to experience, and I guess it may be even much stronger.
Tips about Reynisfjara
Don’t get too close to the sea waves. They may be deadly. Take care especially during windy weather. Several people have actually died at Reynisfjara beach, getting devoured by “sneaky” waves.
Reynisfjara beach is a touristy place. Want to avoid crowds of tourists? Read our guide on how to avoid tourists in Iceland.
Distance from car park: 5 minutes / 30-40 minutes
Time spent at: 20-40 minutes / 1-2 hours
Worth visiting even with bad weather: yes, probably
Physical condition needed: little / medium
Interesting index: 1 – amazing (1-amazing, 2-great, 3-nice)
Stuðlagil canyon is a picturesque canyon near Egilsstaðir, but away from the main tourist areas.
How to get to Studlagil
In summer, Studlagil canyon alone is accessible also by a 2wd car, via road Jokuldalsvegur. It’s a semi-gravel road with some parts paved better and some worse, without any river crossings.
If you want your ride to be less bumpy, or if you want to combine Studlagil with a trip to Askja as we did, definitely go for a 4wd car. Read about how we chose our car. Or just get free discounts for your Icelandic car rental.
Two main viewpoints of the canyon do exist, i.e. there are two possible ways how to explore the canyon – from two different sides. Choose the side before your trip, because the time required for doing each side is significantly different.
The western side of Studlagil canyon
The western side we explored was the one suitable for those who don’t have enough time or energy to discover the canyon by walking along. On the western side (left from the south, right from Egilsstaðir) there’s a car park and stairs taking you down to the man-made viewpoint. It takes some 5 minutes to climb down the stairs. From there you may admire most of the beautiful views of the canyon. It’s not possible to descent down to the canyon itself though, compared to the other side.
Stuðlagil Canyon, another view from the western side
The eastern side of Studlagil canyon
The eastern side is the one where it’s possible to hike down right to the canyon itself. The car park you will aim for is this one. You have to first cross the small bridge to the eastern side of the canyon, where you have to leave your car (or eventually you may leave your car somewhere before the bridge). Then you have to walk along the bank of the canyon towards the south to see its most beautiful part. From there you are able to descent down to the river and make some amazing photos from the close distance.
The entire roundtrip including canyon exploration will take you some 2-3 hours to complete at minimum.
Our experience with Studlagil
We combined the visit of Studlagil canyon with a visit to Askja. Our priority for the day was Askja. That meant that, once we arrived at Studlagil, we had already been awake and on our feet for some 13 hours on that day. That’s why we chose an easier way to explore the canyon – from the western side.
The canyon was beautiful, and we were able to admire it from the bird’s eye view. The disadvantage, of course, was that we couldn’t make a descent to the base of the canyon itself (which is possible from the eastern side).
Tips about Studlagil
If you are lucky enough, water in the canyon will be crystal clear (as in our pictures). In case you are not, the glacier water of the Kárahnjúkar dam will change the colour of the water to a less picturesque one. Nevertheless, the canyon columns will remain the same at any time 🙂
7. LJOTIPOLLUR
Ljótipollur
Summary
Distance from car park: 5 minutes ascent
Time spent at: 15-30 minutes
Worth visiting even with bad weather: yes, probably
Physical condition needed: little
Interesting index: 1 – amazing (1-amazing, 2-great, 3-nice)
Ljotipollur is a breathtaking colourful lake near Landmannalaugar.
How to get to Ljotipollur
You have to use the 4wd car to reach Ljotipollur. Read about how we chose our car. Or just get free discounts for your Icelandic car rental.
F-road towards Ljótipollur
If you put name Ljótipollur into Google maps, it will navigate you towards detour in the right direction from northern F208 road, coming from Landmannalaugar direction (left, coming from F26 direction). There aren’t any good road signs so just follow Google and you should be fine. You’re going to drive nice black gravel road in the middle of nowhere which will end with the sign “cars forbidden” again in the middle of nowhere.
Ljótipollur “parking”
The place with the sign served as a car park at the time of our visit (2 more cars were parked there, what a crowd). We left our car at this improvised car park and continued walking towards Ljótipollur direction a Google was pointing at.
Our experience with Ljotipollur
The walk from the parking lot took us around 5 minutes and a majestic red volcanic crater suddenly stood in front of us. We were the only visitors admiring it at that time (I don’t have any idea where were the people who arrived by the other 2 cars parked in the car park). Just us, absolute silence and the picturesque canyon filled with crystal clear water.
Ljotipollur trail
You can also hike around the Ljótipollur area but that wasn’t our plan, because Ljótipollur was already supposed to be the highlight of the area and we were really tired after our Landmannalaugar hikes.
Tips about Ljotipollur
Ljótipollur is a remote canyon where you will meet out of this world colours on every corner. It definitely didn’t look like a touristy place at the time of our visit and we had it all for ourselves at around 3 pm which is I guess still a peak hour.
6. LATRABJARG
Látrabjarg on a sunny day
Summary
Distance from car park: 2-15 minutes
Time spent at: 20-60 minutes
Worth visiting even with bad weather: no, probably
Physical condition needed: little
Interesting index: 1 – amazing (1-amazing, 2-great, 3-nice)
Látrabjarg cliffs are gigantic cliffs at the westernmost point of Iceland.
How to get to Latrabjarg
Latrabjarg is officially accessible also by the 2wd car in the summer. Nevertheless, I recommend you to have a 4wd car to get there. Not only will it be safer, but also quicker and less bumpy. The last part of the road 612 leading there could easily be an F-road. It’s a gravel coastal road full of potholes. It doesn’t contain any river crossings, though.
We spent some time observing strange puffin flights and their landing, often, right next to us. Truly once in a lifetime experience. You may hike along the edge of the cliff as long as you want. We did so for some 15 minutes and then turned back. Although Latrabjarg was the place where we saw the biggest number of cars parked in Westfjords, it still didn’t seem to be crowded because of the size of the entire area.
Látrabjarg cliffs
To conclude – Latrabjarg is definitely worth making a detour.
Tips about Latrabjarg
Not only are Latrabjarg cliffs the westernmost place in entire Europe, it is also the place with one of the most unique floras and faunas. Secondly, the actual Latrabjarg cliff is more than just magnificent. It’s huge and admirable. And as a bonus, guess who is here? Puffins!
Last puffins spotted during our journey. At Latrabjarg
During our entire 12-day trip this was the first and last place where we saw puffins. Later on, I read that Latrabjarg is a place where “it’s guaranteed to see puffins”. It seems to be so!
5. SIGOLDUGLJUFUR CANYON
Sigoldugljufur canyon. A remote, magical, non-touristy place.
Summary
Distance from car park: 10 minutes
Time spent at: 20-40 minutes
Worth visiting even with bad weather: yes, probably
Physical condition needed: little
Interesting index: 1 – amazing (1-amazing, 2-great, 3-nice)
Sigöldugljufur canyon is a secluded canyon located north of Landmannalaugar.
How to get to Sigoldugljufur
Although the northern part of F208 leading to the canyon is just a normal gravel road, you still officially need the 4wd car, because it’s an F-road. You don’t need any hardcore jeep to reach it, however. Read about how we chose our car. Or just get free discounts for your Icelandic car rental.
Google maps are quite precise with the location of the canyon, although you won’t find any road signs indicating it, so you have to rely solely on Google maps. The canyon is located on the right side of F208 coming from the Landmannalaugar direction (i.e. naturally on the left side coming from the F26 direction). The only sign telling you “there’s something nearby” is the little car park near the spot which is the closest point connecting the road and the canyon marked on Google maps.
When you leave the car park, you continue walking along the unmarked gravel road (used only by locals) and you keep on the left side of it, exactly as suggested by google maps. After some 10 minutes of walking, you will arrive at the right bank of the canyon and a huge network of small rivers and waterfalls of unbelievable colours will emerge in front of you.
All alone at Sigöldugljufur canyon
Our experience with Sigoldugljufur
You will literally find yourself as in the middle of the fairy tale, especially if you’re as lucky as we were, and will be there all by yourself.
Sigöldugljufur canyon was our favourite canyon in Iceland because it was the least touristy and, in our opinion, the most beautiful. With all its remoteness it embodies for me the spirit of Iceland, i.e. a picturesque hidden place in the middle of nowhere.
Tips about Sigoldugljufur
There’s actually no marked trail, so unless they make one anytime soon, you’re going to slightly break the rules, as you will be walking on an “unmarked path” and therefore destroying Icelandic nature a bit. We tried to go the same way back to spare the nature of our footsteps. That being said, I think it’s inevitable someone will build a marked trail heading to the canyon soon as it’s becoming more and more touristy from what I’d read before our trip.
It’s also possible to continue several kilometres ahead along the valley, so it’s just up to you how far you want to go. You are able to see the major part of the canyon already from the first moment you have it in your sight, however. That’s exactly what we did – admired it for a couple of minutes and didn’t continue further along the valley.
4. LANGISJOR AND SVEINSTINDUR
Langisjór lake next to Langisjór campsite mark on the map
Summary
Distance from car park: 2 minutes
Time spent at: 20-45 minutes Langisjor, 2-3 hours Sveinstindur
Worth visiting even with bad weather: no
Physical condition needed: little for Langisjor, advanced for Sveinstindur
Interesting index: 1 – amazing (1-amazing, 2-great, 3-nice)
Langisjór is a huge glacial lake located far away from any populated areas. Sveinstindur is the tallest peak in the area.
How to get to Langisjor
Langisjor and Sveinstindur are not easy to access. You will definitely need at least a medium-sized 4wd car. There are several river crossings, some of them with small rivers, some of them with medium-sized rivers. Read about how we chose our car. Or just get free discounts for your Icelandic car rental.
If you are interested in specific details about getting to Langisjor and types of river crossings you will have to encounter, read our post about getting to Langisjor.
We reached the “Langisjór camping”, or at least that’s what Google maps said, which was just a small cottage with 2 nice modern toilets at the end of the world. We continued to the point on Google maps named “Langisjór campsite” where the road ended.
This was supposed to be Langisjór campsite according to maps. It just turned out to be a remote place with nobody being there.
Our experience with Langisjor
The water in Langisjór had been crystal clear and the complete silence surrounding the area was both amazing and a bit scary at the same time. First time in my life I experienced what one may call “absolute silence”.
You may just walk to the lake and enjoy its marvellous water and atmosphere around. There’s also a small hill nearby, which you may climb as well if you are up to.
Tips about Langisjor
The campsite looked a bit hostile for camping in our opinion. The only facilities there were toilets. So be aware of that, when planning your trip.
Langisjor was also one of the least touristy places we had been to during our trip around Iceland.
How to get to Sveinstindur
Sveinstindur is just next to the point named on Google Maps as “Langisjór camping”.
First of all, finding the start of the hiking trail was not an easy task at all. There are no signs indicating where should you go or park your car if you want to hike Sveinstindur. I just guessed – it’s not along the road we’d already driven (or at least I think so), it’s not near the lake, so let’s take the only road left – the road continuing on an unmarked F-road (described for example here).
Sveinstindur parking. This is how a parking lot in highlands looks like.
Shortly after pursuing the road, we found a car park with 2 cars, which I again guessed, is maybe a car park for Sveinstindur? Yes, probably I’m right – I realized shortly after seeing first yellow sticks indicating a hiking trail, though still no signs or names which would say “Sveinstindur”.
Our experience with Sveinstindur
Sveinstindur seemed to be a great fit for my itinerary – non-touristy, amazing views from the top, not so long hike, out of this world landscapes everywhere around. Unfortunately, the weather started to be much foggier at the time of our visit and it even started to rain. OK, Icelandic weather, I told myself, we shouldn’t get discouraged by this. Well, I changed my mind later. It’s not a very good idea to climb Sveinstindur when it rains and when you don’t see anything because of the fog.
Sveinstindur hiking trail, somewhere near half of the road towards the peak. In the beginning, the hike seemed to be doable – the ground was OK to walk on, the visibility was so-so, the rain was light, so we continued. However, after some 20-30 minutes of hiking, we walked right into the big fog and we could see that everything above this point is covered in fog as well. Together with that, the rain intensified and the path got steeper and slippery.
At this point, we decided to turn back, as it was not worth it to continue the climb when we couldn’t see a thing. On our way back, we met a really fast hiker coming back from the top so I asked him whether he’d seen anything from the top. “Not a thing” he replied, which just reassured me to continue on our way back to the car. It’s a pity but what should we do – next time.
Tips about Sveinstindur
The upper part of the hike on Sveinstindur near Langisjor lake on a foggy day with slight rain
Quick advice – definitely go only when the weather is nice! It’s not a very pleasant experience when it’s not. Trust me, we’ve experienced it.
3. LANDMANNALAUGAR
View from the peak of Bláhnjúkur towards Landmannalaugar camp, Laugahraun and 2nd (steeper) hiking trail
Summary
Distance from car park: 5-10 minutes Time spent at: from 3 hours to several days Worth visiting even with bad weather: no Physical condition needed: medium to advanced Interesting index: 1 – amazing (1-amazing, 2-great, 3-nice)
Landmannalaugar, or “rainbow mountains”, is a huge area full of breath-taking natural wonders of Iceland. It mostly refers to mountains and peaks of Brennisteinsalda, Blahnjukur and those nearby. It’s, however, huge and stretches itself all the way to Thorsmork.
How to get to Landmannalaugar
There are basically two main ways to reach the area. The northern one and the southern one. I personally recommend you to take both of them, but your plans might be different. For both of them, you will need a 4wd car, but they are as different as the night and the day are. That means, also the choice of a specific 4wd car should be made according to which route will you plan to take.
F208 north is the easier route because there are no river crossings. The majority of guides and blogs would recommend you this route since it’s generally easier and safer. I do agree it’s easier, but I don’t agree you should take only the northern part of F208.
Horses or “Icelandic ponies” blocking the F208 road Fjallabaksleið Nyrðri north of Landmannalaugar
There are several nice stops along the road like Ljotipollur lake or Sigoldugljufur canyon. Other than that, however, the landscapes around the road are not so spectacular. Definitely not, compared to the southern route. Read more about our journey along the northern part of F208.
The southern part of F208
Despite (or thanks to?) being long and containing several river crossings of different sizes, from small to medium-sized ones, F208 south is one of my favourite Icelandic roads. Landscapes surrounding the road are once in a lifetime experience and so is the drive itself.
F208, or Fjallabaksleið Nyrðri, after crossing with F235 towards Landmannalaugar
Choose your car wisely and you will never forget about your journey on the southern F208.
Our experience with Landmannalaugar
There are basically 3 types of activities you may do around Landmannalaugar. Hiking, bathing or driving. Hiking would probably be the number one activity visitors go to Landmannalugar for. That’s why we’ve put up a 1-day hiking guide in Landmannalaugar for you.
On our journey, we linked together driving the southern part of F208, with the visit of Langisjor and Sveinstindur and finally with the arrival to Landmannalaugar. That being said, we arrived at Landmannalaugar in the evening, camped at the Brennisteinsalda campsite and went for hiking on the following day.
Spectacular views right from the beginning of the hike on Bláhnjúkur and even on the slightly foggy day
We devoted just 1 (not even entire) day to Landmannalaugar so we wanted to see as much as we could with the best views over the area in the shortest time possible. That’s why we chose the combination of hiking the two most beautiful relatively easily accessible peaks – Brennisteinsalda (the orange mountain) and Blahnjukur (the blue peak).
Tips about Landmannalaugar
Landmannalaugar may be a bit touristy. Read our tips on how to avoid touristy places in Iceland.
Plan for the good weather. This one is a must. Strong wind or rain may even be very dangerous during the hikes in Landmannalaugar.
Landmannalaugar Brennisteinsalda campsite on a summer evening
If you are seeking tips for hiking in Landmannalaugar, read our hiking guide. If you are interested in our entire experience including what we’d done before and after Landmannalaugar or how we camped, read about day 3 of our journey and about day 4 of our journey.
Clay staircase in Hveradalir area of Kerlingarfjöll
Summary
Distance from car park: 2 minutes Time spent at: 1-3 hours (or more according to your hiking passion) Worth visiting even with bad weather: no, probably Physical condition needed: medium to advanced Interesting index: 1 – amazing (1-amazing, 2-great, 3-nice)
Kerlingarfjoll belongs to the category of another “out of this world” Icelandic experiences. It’s an area full of orange mountains and sulphuric (mostly not for bathing) hot springs.
How to get to Kerlingarfjoll
There are two main ways to reach the area. From the north and from the south, both via F-road F35. Technically, from the south of F35, it’s a shorter route. But, it doesn’t matter much which way you choose to start from – north or south. What matters more is, what you plan to do before and after your Kerlingarfjöll trip. Read more about what route we chose here.
F35, aka Kjalvegur, near Hveravellir
Officially, you need a 4wd car to drive the F35. It’s a gravel road with many potholes, but it would be definitely doable also by a 2wd (if it were not for the 4wd restriction). By saying that I mean, F35 is not hard to drive and doesn’t contain any river crossings.
The toughest part of the drive to Kerlingarfjoll is the last ascent towards the main area of Hveradalir. It’s quite steep and we’d seen several cars turning back, being afraid of making the ascent with their car. If you are interested in details, read our guide on Kerlingarfjoll. To sum up, you definitely need a medium-sized SUV to reach Hveradalir (or some big guts).
F347 road next to Hveradalir hot spring area in Kerlingarfjoll
Our Dacia Duster has done its job well and we reached Hveradalir area of Kerlingarfjoll without any problems. Read about how we chose our car. Or just get free discounts for your Icelandic car rental.
Our experience with Kerlingarfjoll
We chose to arrive at Hveradalir geothermal area by car and to explore it from there. You may hike around the area as long as you want and as far as you want and turn back at any moment. This is the most time-efficient option and allows you to see one of the most beautiful views of Kerlingarfjoll in quite a short amount of time.
Hveradalir area is one of the most beautiful and breath-taking places I’ve ever been to in my life – together with Askja, Landmannalaugar and the F-roads south of Landmannalaugar. You literally feel like you’re on a different planet. This time it’s not rainbow mountains, no black sand, no green moss. This time, it’s orange mountains mixed with wild sulphuric hot springs and snow. A lot of snow. And cold. And the wind. Welcome to Hveradalir.
Kerlingarfjöll mountain resort campsite
There are several smaller hills and there are also smaller wooden stairs-like steps almost on each of them to help you with the ascent. And I do understand why. If it weren’t for them, every 10th visitor would have slipped on the clay and injured or killed himself. The views and the atmosphere of the place is truly amazing. Hot springs with hot sulphuric steam are everywhere and they help create an occasional feeling of warmth. There are, however, no hot springs to bath in Hveradalir area. This is contrary to Google maps calling the location “hot springs” or “geothermal area”.
One of the summits of the several smaller hills around the Hveradalir in Kerlingarfjöll
Interested in more details about hot springs or hiking options in Kerlingarfjoll? Read our guide.
Interested in what we’d done before and after the trip to Kerlingarfjoll, which routes we chose, where we camped and many more? Read about day 8 of our journey.
Tips about Kerlingarfjoll
Once in Kerlingarfjöll, you have numerous hiking options. You may for example hike the red loop trail, getting to all of the biggest summits around the area, sleeping over at mountain huts. This is a very challenging hike, where you will be going to need very good gear (e.g. crampons) and be in a very good physical condition. And it will take you about 3 days. Read more here.
One of the numerous trails in Hveradalir area of Kerlingarfjoll
Also bear in mind, that on the 8th August, 3 pm in the afternoon (i.e. probably one of the warmest times possible) the temperature climbed to tropical 5°C. And the strong wind didn’t help it at all, making everything feel even some 5°C colder. If you plan to camp here, you’re going to be freezing for sure.
1. ASKJA
Me swimming in 25°C sulphuric water of Víti crater in Askja
Summary
Distance from car park: 20-30 minutes one way (from Vikarborgir) Time spent at: >1 hour Worth visiting even with bad weather: yes, probably Physical condition needed: medium to advanced (depends if you want to climb Viti) Interesting index: 1 – amazing (1-amazing, 2-great, 3-nice)
Askja is a hidden gem of Iceland. It’s a picturesque volcanic crater filled with warm sulphuric water in the middle of nowhere. The drive to Askja is strenuous but more than worth it.
How to get to Askja
To drive to Askja you definitely need a 4wd car. There are two main routes available to reach Askja. The northern one (F88) and the eastern one (F905, F910).
The northern route is the toughest one because F88 contains several big, treacherous rivers. You will need a large super-jeep if you want to take F88.
F905 to Askja on an exceptionally beautiful sunny summer day
The eastern route contains river crossings as well, but only small and medium-sized ones, so it’s doable also with a medium-sized SUV. If you are interested in specific details about each road and each river crossing, you may read our guide on how to visit Askja.
It’s important to choose your car carefully for your visit to Askja. Read about how we chose our car. Or just get free discounts for your Icelandic car rental.
Our experience with Askja
From the car park it takes some 20-30 minutes of walking via a well-marked path with yellow sticks to reach the place everybody sees in the pictures – i.e. Víti crater. Sun still shined, the sky was still clear and the wind was still mild – what a wonderful day! And Viti crater looked even better than in the photos! Fairy-tale-like blue water with moon-like surrounding landscapes. Askja was the highlight of our trip.
Amazingly beautiful Askja (the whole area), Víti (the crater lake) and Öskjuvatn (the bigger lake nearby) all in one picture
We also decided to descent down to the crater itself and take a bath. This was one of the two moments during our journey when I was a bit scared (first one when hiking up the Blahnjukur peak in Landmannalugar, climbing the steep clay slippery trail). Here again, the descent was steep and the ground was covered with slippery clay, which means you’re unable to control any fall of yours, in case it happens.
Nevertheless, it’s a short descent and not too dangerous, so in good weather, you should be able to make it. Once down in the caldera, you may enjoy swimming in the water with a temperature around 25°C, which is definitely not a hot spring but it’s definitely warmer than air (at the time of our visit around 10-15°C). Once in a lifetime experience.
Tips about Askja
Askja = name of the entire area.
Viti = volcanic crater you are probably aiming for as we were, with blue picturesque geothermal water.
Oskjuvatn = big lake just next to Viti, with no geothermal water (Google calls Oskjuvatn “Lake Askja”).
Vikraborgir car park, the closest point available on your route towards Askja/Víti crater
Once you reach Viti, you may either:
Just admire the beauty of Viti crater and monumental Oskjuvatn lake next to it, or
Hikearound the area, or
As we chose (or as my girlfriend persuaded me), hike down the Viti crater and swim in the green/blue geothermal water.
Öskjuvatn lake in Askja area, next to famous Víti crater
Interested in more details on different hikes, map of the area and our experience? Read our guide on Askja.
Interested in how we combined Askja with the visit of Studlagil canyon, where we camped and where we went next? Read about day 6 of our journey.
Here are the best Icelandic waterfalls, with a focus on those that are easily accessible. According to our humble opinion B-). Based on the overall experience, i.e.:
Distance from car park: 5 minutes
Time spent at: 10-20 minutes
Worth visiting even with bad weather: yes
Physical condition needed: little
Interesting index: 2 – great (1-amazing, 2-great, 3-nice)
How to get to Gullfoss
In summer, Gullfoss is easily accessible by any 2wd car. Read about how we chose our car. Or just get free discounts for your Icelandic car rental.
Our experience with Gullfoss
The waterfall is very easily accessible, which probably explains why it’s usually so touristy. It’s also very picturesque. It wasn’t one of our favourites, though. We were already spoiled enough with all of the places we had seen already at that time. As someone on the Google maps had put it “3/5 Icelandic stars, that is 5/5 stars anywhere else”.
Tips about Gullfoss
Gullfoss is typically one of the most touristy places in Iceland. You’re going to notice it once you arrive at the gigantic car park next to the restaurant and a souvenir shop. However, we arrived in the evening during Covid-19 times. This meant an empty car park and a closed restaurant with a souvenir shop. And also – almost no tourists.
8. SELFOSS
The east viewpoint of the Selfoss waterfall
Summary
Distance from car park: 20-30 minutes
Time spent at: 10-15 minutes
Worth visiting even with bad weather: yes
Physical condition needed: little / medium
Interesting index: 2 – great (1-amazing, 2-great, 3-nice)
How to get to Selfoss
In summer, Selfoss is accessible by any 2wd car. I do recommend renting a cheap 4wd, though. Especially the eastern access is a rough gravel road. Read about how we chose our car. Or just get free discounts for your Icelandic car rental.
You may reach the waterfall from 2 different sides – the west and the east. Read below in our Tips section details about both of them.
Our experience with Selfoss
You have to reach Selfoss by walking, there’s no car park. Nevertheless, it’s a short walk of about 10-15 minutes from Dettifoss, again on either stony or normal path. After the waterfalls we’d already seen at that point, we were not that overwhelmed by Selfoss. It’s a nice series of many small waterfalls, so what’s interesting about it is its width. Needless to say, it’s still a very beautiful place to see.
Dettifoss with Selfoss were also the only places during the Covid-19 times where we met Asian tourists. I just wonder how many tourists are here usually, when there’s no Covid? Probably a lot of.
Tips about Selfoss
You have two choices about how to get to these well-known waterfalls. From the west or from the east. There are endless debates all over the internet about which side is the best. I will make it easier for you. Eastern side is the best. No discussion. Easy.
Ok, let’s be a bit more serious now. Yes, I think the eastern side is much better. Why?
The road leading there is more adventurous
View from the eastern side is much better
Most likely you won’t get wet (much) on this side
Car parks are smaller, but that should mean fewer tourists, right?
That’s why we went for the eastern side.
7. GODAFOSS
Godafoss before sunset
Summary
Distance from car park: 10 minutes
Time spent at: 10-20 minutes
Worth visiting even with bad weather: yes
Physical condition needed: little
Interesting index: 2 – great (1-amazing, 2-great, 3-nice)
How to get to Goðafoss
In summer, Goðafoss is easily accessible by any 2wd car. Read about how we chose our car. Or just get free discounts for your Icelandic car rental.
Our experience with Goðafoss
Godafoss is a waterfall on a bucket list of everyone driving the entire ring road. You’ll most likely find it in every Icelandic guide. That means we’re talking about a touristy place again. Reaching Godafoss is easy. You may leave your car at the Fossholl parking lot. From there you take a 10 minutes’ walk either from the south or from the north of the waterfall. We took the southern route and I can recommend it, views from there were very nice.
Tips about Goðafoss
We were lucky again to have beautiful sunny weather and arrived at the waterfall around the sunset time. Path to the Godafoss is paved and literally, everyone can make this little walk. Goðafoss is very nice and definitely worth visiting, though not our favourite Icelandic waterfall.
6. HAIFOSS
Just Haifoss
Summary
Distance from car park: 5 minutes
Time spent at: 15-30 minutes
Worth visiting even with bad weather: yes
Physical condition needed: little
Interesting index: 1 – amazing (1-amazing, 2-great, 3-nice)
How to get to Haifoss
In summer, Haifoss is accessible by any 2wd car. I do recommend renting a cheap 4wd, though. The road 332 leading there is a rough gravel road, so you may save your car by using an SUV. Read about how we chose our car. Or just get free discounts for your Icelandic car rental.
Our experience with Haifoss
Once you reach the well-marked car park, Haifoss is just a few steps next to it, in a huge moss-covered green valley with many sheep around. Haifoss is supposed to be more touristy, due to its accessibility also by 2wd cars, and yes it was even during our visit. There were some 3-4 cars other than us parking at the car park, which seemed like a lot compared to our experience at that time.
There are several viewpoints of the waterfall, all next to each other so you will have enough space to admire the waterfall from and make some nice pictures. Despite the weather being cloudy already, we were able to make some nice pictures anyway.
Tips about Haifoss
The road leading to Haifoss (332) is the gravel road which you will be able to drive fast on with any 4wd car because it doesn’t have any potholes just a lot of gravel on it. That’s also why it’s not marked as an F-road. With a 2wd car, you would need to slow down, however.
5. DYNJANDI
Dynjandi waterfall trail
Summary
Distance from car park: 10 minutes
Time spent at: 30-45 minutes
Worth visiting even with bad weather: yes
Physical condition needed: little to medium
Interesting index: 1 – amazing (1-amazing, 2-great, 3-nice)
How to get to Dynjandi
In summer, Dynjandi is accessible by any 2wd car. I do recommend renting a cheap 4wd, though. Westfjords’ roads near Dynjandi may get tough to drive in rough weather. Read about how we chose our car. Or just get free discounts for your Icelandic car rental.
Our experience with Dynjandi
Probably the most beautiful waterfall in Westfjords (and one of the best in Iceland as well) – that’s Dynjandi waterfall. The huge car park and the entire infrastructure around the waterfall suggest that Dynjandi waterfall is apparently a very touristy place during normal times. Not during Covid-19 times, though. When we reached the parking lot at 8 am, we were the only car parking there. Just us and the beautiful Dynjandi.
There are several smaller waterfalls below Dynjandi and you will meet them along your trail towards Dynjandi. The actual Dynjandi definitely belongs to the top Icelandic waterfalls we’ve seen. Its unique shape makes it more than just memorable.
Tips about Dynjandi
I had read before, that the hiking trail towards Dynjandi takes about 45 minutes to complete. That’s not true. It takes only some 10-15 minutes of light hiking to arrive at the base of the waterfall. Maybe there’s a trail continuing even further to the upper part of the waterfall (which takes 45 minutes to complete), I don’t remember any though.
4. SVARTIFOSS
The closest viewpoint to Svartifoss after sky finally cleared a bit. Still, we are wet in the pic as you may see.
Summary
Distance from car park: 20-30 minutes one way
Time spent at: 15-30 minutes
Worth visiting even with bad weather: yes
Physical condition needed: little
Interesting index: 1 – amazing (1-amazing, 2-great, 3-nice)
How to get to
In summer, Svartifoss is easily accessible by any 2wd car. Read about how we chose our car. Or just get free discounts for your Icelandic car rental.
Our experience with Svartifoss
This was a touristy day and we were aware of it, as we were visiting the most touristy part of an Iceland – the south. Svartifoss waterfall is famous mostly thanks to the Vikings series. Once we reached the car park of the Skaftafell national park, we realized what “touristy” actually means here. The car park and entire infrastructure around the entrance of the park were huge compared to all other sites we’d seen before. So we did park our car along 40 other cars and went for the Skaftafell trail towards Svartifoss.
The trail takes some 20-30 minutes to reach the Svartifoss waterfall and it’s a fairly easy one. Here is a map of the Skaftafell area. You’re going to probably meet a lot of fellow tourists, as we did, along the path. When we reached the Svartifoss, however, there were just 2-3 couples together with us and shortly thereafter we were there all by ourselves. The weather was so-so with cloudy sky and slight fog. Still, Svartifoss was really beautiful and worth seeing.
Tips about Svartifoss
There are many other hiking trails in the Skaftafell national park, so if you are into hiking you have several options to go for. Since Svartifoss is supposed to be the highlight of the entire area, we again didn’t go for any other trail and went just for Svartifoss. After seeing it and enjoying the views we turned back towards our car.
3. SKÓGAFOSS
The bottom part of Skógafoss waterfall (and a wedding in the background ☺) at 8 pm
Summary
Distance from car park: 2 minutes (lower part), 7 minutes (upper part)
Time spent at: 30-60 minutes
Worth visiting even with bad weather: yes, probably
Physical condition needed: little
Interesting index: 1 – amazing (1-amazing, 2-great, 3-nice)
How to get to Skógafoss
In summer, Skógafoss is easily accessible by any 2wd car. Read about how we chose our car. Or just get free discounts for your Icelandic car rental.
Our experience with Skógafoss
The entire area around Skógafoss is just incredibly pretty. There’s a campsite just next to the waterfall so if you have a chance to camp in here, definitely go for it! The next time we visit Iceland we would definitely camp in here. Waking up to the sound of bursting water and seeing the magnificent waterfall right after getting out of your tent must be an unforgettable experience.
With regards to the waterfall itself, you may walk literally into its bottom part. We were surprised that in most of the cases there were no barriers restraining you from going as close to the waterfall as you want. Which of course means, you have to take care of any danger for yourself.
Tips about Skógafoss
You may also climb a few stairs to get to the upper part of the waterfall, which we again definitely do recommend (especially in good weather) because you will be rewarded with a really nice view. Near the upper part, you will probably meet some sheep and you will see the path continuing more deeply into the national park. We didn’t go further as Skogafoss was supposed to be the highlight anyway.
2. DETTIFOSS
Observe tourists on our side (east) and the other side (west) of the Dettifoss
Summary
Distance from car park: 5-10 minutes
Time spent at: 10-15 minutes
Worth visiting even with bad weather: yes
Physical condition needed: little / medium
Interesting index: 1 – amazing (1-amazing, 2-great, 3-nice)
How to get to Dettifoss
In summer, Dettifoss is accessible by any 2wd car. I do recommend renting a cheap 4wd, though. Especially the eastern access is a rough gravel road. Read about how we chose our car. Or just get free discounts for your Icelandic car rental.
You may reach the waterfall from 2 different sides – the west and the east. Read below in our Tips section details about both of them.
Our experience with Dettifoss
We visited Dettifoss on Day 7 of our packed 2-week trip. Dettifoss is close to many other beautiful sights in the Mývatn area, which we definitely recommend visiting too! We arrived at the eastern bank of the waterfall (see below, why the eastern one).
It will take you some 5-10 minutes to walk from the eastern car park on a stony but perfectly safe trail to reach the waterfall. Dettifoss is one of the most beautiful Icelandic waterfalls we’ve seen. Mostly, because its massive water volume is really impressive. It’s also said to be the most powerful Icelandic waterfall, and one of the most powerful ones in Europe as well. For those interested, there’s a nice website summarizing all waterfalls here. We were also lucky enough to catch Dettifoss with a rainbow over it.
Tips about Dettifoss – Which side to choose?
You have two choices about how to get to these well-known waterfalls. From the west or from the east. There are endless debates all over the internet about which side is the best. I will make it easier for you. The Eastern side is the best. No discussion. Easy.
Ok, let’s be a bit more serious now. Yes, I think the eastern side is much better. Why?
The road leading there is more adventurous
View from the eastern side is much better
Most likely you won’t get wet (much) on this side
Car parks are smaller, but that should mean fewer tourists, right?
That’s why we went for the eastern side.
1. SELJALANDSFOSS
Seljalandsfoss at 7 pm
Summary
Distance from car park: 5 minutes
Time spent at: 20-60 minutes
Worth visiting even with bad weather: yes, probably
Physical condition needed: little
Interesting index: 1 – amazing (1-amazing, 2-great, 3-nice)
How to get to Seljalandsfoss
In summer, Seljalandsfoss is easily accessible by any 2wd car. Read about how we chose our car. Or just get free discounts for your Icelandic car rental.
The car park in front of the waterfall is a paid one (7eur). Nobody had been checking the tickets at the time, however, we didn’t want to risk getting any infamously high Icelandic fines (e.g. 10 000 USD here) so we headed to the ticket machine. Over there my girlfriend realized that somebody had left their used parking ticket for someone else to use again, which seemed a really nice gesture, although I’m not sure whether this is, in reality, good or not (depends on, whether the area is being maintained using the fees collected from the parking or whether just someone is getting rich by renting a piece of ground for parking).
Our experience with Seljalandsfoss
Anyway, Seljalandsfoss was amazing. We were lucky enough that the sky cleared just before our arrival and we could experience the waterfall playing with the sun and an accompanying rainbow. And yes, Seljalandsfoss is the waterfall you can walk behind, and yes it’s a beautiful experience to do it. During Covid times, there were some 5-8 people around the waterfall area at the time of our visit, so we had the waterfall almost entirely to ourselves. We are not sure whether it’s because this was our first Icelandic waterfall or because of the really beautiful weather, but we feel like Seljalandsfoss was our favourite waterfall in entire Iceland.
Tips about Seljalandsfoss
Oh, and an important note – take a raincoat! It’s a waterfall so expect a water splashing everywhere, especially if you are planning to walk behind it (which you should!).
About Us Dear Iceland lovers! We are Igor, Katka (+family), and love Iceland with all our hearts. We've spent 3000+ hours hiking, driving, and studying Iceland. Highlands, F-roads, epic Hikes, and wild Hot Springs are our favorites. We share everything we know about Iceland on this blog. Read our references.