I’ve seen several articles which claimed to be the “Fimmvorduhals hike guide” but they still didn’t contain all information I needed and didn’t answer all my questions. I’m not saying they are not useful, they are just not detailed enough. For example, I couldn’t clearly find out how long the hike will take us, getting some very mixed estimates ranging anywhere from 6 hours to 2 days. This and more I tried to put together in 1 comprehensive article about the Fimmvorduhals hike.
It is said to be one of the most beautiful Icelandic hikes located in the spectacular southern Highlands of Iceland. And I can only confirm that it really is. At least in nice weather 🙂 Otherwise, it may easily turn into a long and unpleasant struggle.
Fimmvorduhals pass is a mountain pass located between the two glaciers between Skogar (yes, Skogafoss waterfall) and Basar hut in Thorsmork. And this is exactly the trail of the hike – the traverse from Skogar to Thorsmork or the other way round. Skogar is best known for its beautiful waterfalls, while Thorsmork is famous for its hard-to-access natural beauties, valleys, rivers, glaciers, and mountains. And the Fimmvorduhals hike is full of everything of these.
The trail around Fimmvorduhals snowfields
For any Icelandic enthusiast, the Fimmvorduhals hike is a must-go. It proudly belongs to the greatest spots in the Icelandic Highlands. It’s not a question of if, but rather a question of when. Of course only if you feel like doing it – because it’s not that easy (but also not any horror – in good weather) and it takes 7 to 12 hours to complete – based on your skills.
When to go
This is a crucial decision. I changed the planned day for the hike 4 times. This meant 4 times contacting the bus company for changing the tickets and 4 times explaining this to my foreign hiking buddy Vicente 🙂 But it was well worth it. If the weather doesn’t look good, please don’t go and better change your plans / reschedule the hike to a different day.
The basic answer is easy – in summer only. Some parts of the hike are covered by snow all year round, so you cannot avoid snow completely. But there are spots that are impassable if there’s too much snow and there are spots that are easily passable even when walking on the snow. So, the more specific answer would be – ideally in the second half of July or in August. At this time, the last winter’s snow should be already melted and the “next year’s” snow hasn’t arrived yet.
Descent from Fimmvorduhals craters of Magni and Modi to Thorsmork
Generally, the trail is open for hiking from somewhere around the beginning of June to somewhere around the middle of September. But the more away you go from July/August, the more difficult the hike will be. Of course, it all depends on your hiking skills. If you are used to hiking in snow, wind, cold, and/or rain, you have more flexibility in terms of when to go.
Even in July/August – please look at the forecast and look at the safetravel.is for any warnings. Although Fimmvorduhals is not Mt. Everest, it can get bad in unfavorable weather. How to read the weather forecast? We wrote an entire article about how to find good weather in Iceland, feel free to read it. Besides that, a short summary of it is below in the “Weather” section.
Weather
Ideally, you want to naturally aim for no rain, no wind, and clear skies. If this is the case, you have already won. But in Iceland, this is not the case most of the time 🙂 So what you at minimum want to aim for is little rain and little wind. Although fog is unpleasant because your view isn’t the best, it isn’t life-threatening, as is often the case with wind and rain.
It’s important to study the forecast at en.vedur.is. This is an Icelandic meteorological station and you will not get any other foreign forecast which is more precise. Forget about Google’s weather.com, sorry for saying that, but that one is complete bullshit. At en.vedur.is don’t look just at the general forecast – go into the detailed forecast for rain, detailed forecast for the wind, and look specifically at the Fimmvorduhals pass. We described this in detail in our Iceland weather forecast article.
Hiking the Fimmvorduhals waterfall way
Last but not least – looking at the 1 week ahead forecast is (almost) completely useless 🙂 The weather changes very quickly, oftentimes in minutes/hours, 1-week ahead forecast will almost surely change. The forecast which most of the time worked pretty well in our case was 1-2 days ahead forecast. This one didn’t change that much.
The word of caution – even the best forecast doesn’t guarantee you the weather it states. Reality may be better or worse (usually worse in Iceland). So please be prepared for it. And anytime you feel unsafe to proceed, better don’t proceed and turn back. Accommodation/money loss is always more reasonable than health loss. One part of the hike – the part exactly between the two glaciers – is the part where the weather is usually the most unpredictable, changes quickly, and usually is worse than forecasts.
How to get to the Fimmvorduhals hike
Another crucial question after the choice of the season, date, and day is a question of how to get to and from the Fimmvorduhals hike. Do you have a rental car? Yes, you can drive to Skogar (or Thorsmork) then – but how to get back, if the hike ends 30 kilometers away? 🙂 Unless you have an (experienced) friend (with a big 4×4) waiting for you at the other end of the trail, you would need to take the bus or the guided Fimmvorduhals tour (5% discount code: in our newsletter) with transportation. Or stay overnight in accommodation in Thorsmork. The bus is usually the cheapest option.
Getting to the Fimmvörðuháls trailhead may be challenging. Hope our guide helps a bit!
Bus to Skógar and Bus from Thórsmörk
If you Google the buses from/to Skogar and Thorsmork, you will soon realize you don’t have that many options. If you want to start in Skogar and end in Thorsmork (as we did, and most of the visitors as well) the first bus arrives at Skogar at 9:45 AM and the last bus leaves Thorsmork at 20:00 PM. This means that if you want to complete the Fimmvorduhals hike in 1 day AND you don’t have a car, you need to do it in 10 hours. Period.
Here is the Fimmvorduhals bus schedule (10% discount code: in our newsletter). This 1-day loop can only be achieved during the peak season when the last bus from Thorsmork leaves as late as 8 PM.
The Fimmvorduhals bus is also called “the highland bus” and the tickets – although a bit misleading – work pretty well. You can buy 1 ticket which includes the round trip – i.e. either from Reykjavik/Hvolsvollur to Skogar + from Thorsmork back to Reykjavik/Hvolsvollur – or the other way round. The ticket from Reykjavik is roughly 20-30Eur more expensive compared to that from Hvolsvollur.
Hiking to Baldvinsskali hut
Here is the schedule of the Thorsmork buses (10% discount code: in our newsletter). Beware that the evening bus from Thorsmork runs only during the peak season. Otherwise, you have to reach out for the other options. If you arrive outside of the main summer season, you have to either:
Book a night roughly at the halfway of the hike in the Baldvinsskali hut, or
Book a night in Thorsmork – the closest option is Basár hut, the next option is Langidalur campsite and the furthest one (but maybe the most glamorous) is the Volcano huts in Husadalur
What I did was to drive with our car to Hvolsvollur and leave the car there at the big car park of N1 gas station. Then I took the bus to Skogar (10% discount code: in our newsletter), which (as mentioned above) arrived shortly before 10 AM. Then we made the Fimmvorduhals hike (which took us roughly 8 hours in a medium-to-quick pace) and ended up at Basar hut before 7 PM. Finally, we took the same bus back from Basar hut to Hvolsvollur and I came back to our car at 10 PM in Hvolsvollur, thus making it all in 1 day.
It is possible to do the same also with Reykjavik as your start/endpoint, but add additional 2 hours each way (that’s what my friend Vicente has done).
Bus to/from Thorsmork standing at Básar hut
After buying the ticket you also have to reserve your seats on the bus for a particular day and time by writing an email to the bus company. To sum it up, the entire process works like this:
You write an email to the bus company with a specific date and time request (free changes up to 24 hours before departure)
I recommend booking in advance and then making changes a few days before if necessary due to weather. That’s what I had to do several times due to changing rain and wind forecasts. There are usually enough places on the buses (and if there’s a lot of tourists, they usually send more buses). That being said – yes, it’s good to book in advance, but changing a few days before the hike shouldn’t be a problem under normal circumstances.
If you already know beforehand that you can’t make it on time for the bus schedules, you may still book a night in either the Baldvinsskali hut or in Basar/Langidalur/Husadalur campsites. If they have free places, you may come there even without booking it in advance. Of course, booking in advance is recommended. But you can call there and ask a few days in advance for availability and decide based on that.
Views from the Fimmvörðuháls pass, once you get to the top
Car to Skógar and Bus from Thórsmörk
Since the 2024 season a new bus by SouthCoast Adventuresfrom Þórsmörk to Skógar and Hvolsvollur has been introduced. Thanks to our reader Brooke for pointing this out! 🙂
The bus leaves Þórsmörk from either Básar, Langidalur or Húsadalur in the evening during the main summer season and drives all the way to Skógar. This makes the logistics much easier for those who can arrive at Skógar by car.
SouthCoast Adventures bus will now give you the desired flexibility if you have a car, because you can now:
Arrive at Skógar by car at ANY time in the morning.
Take the bus from Thórsmörk back to Skógar in the evening.
Thanks to this option, you can now easier do the Fimmvörðuháls hike in one day. This is especially true if you are not a fast hiker or unsure of how long the hike will take for you. The solution is simple – just arrive at Skógar by car as soon as possible and leave yourself as much time for the hike as you need.
Best Fimmvörðuháls hike tours
Best Fimmvörðuháls hike guided tour by Icelandic Mountain Guides
Would you rather like to take a guided tour? The best Fimmvorduhals hike guided tour is undoubtedly operated by Icelandic Mountain Guides. We can more than just recommend this 5* local Icelandic company with amazing reviews and guides. If you don’t feel like hiking alone, Icelandic Mountain Guides specialize exactly in hiking tours, like Fimmvorduhals is.
1-Day Fimmvörðuháls guided tour
We’ve researched all available 1-day tours to Fimmvorduhals and the tour by Icelandic Mountain Guideswins on all fronts – price, guides, reviews, organization. You can have a 5% discount for Icelandic Mountain Guides tours with the discount code: in our newsletter (you can find the currently working promo code also here).
6-Days combo Fimmvörðuháls + Laugavegur tour
By far the best Laugavegur hike guided tour by Icelandic Mountain Guides
This tour is the gem among all hiking tours in Iceland. You will see the most beautiful Icelandic landscapes and sleep in authentic Icelandic mountain huts along the way. All this accompanied by amazing guides who will take care of you all the time.
You can have a 5% discount for Icelandic Mountain Guides tours with the discount code: in our newsletter (you can find the currently working promo code also here).
Length
The hike is 26 kilometers long (16 miles). How long does it take to complete it? This is the aspect that is kind of hard to estimate because everyone has a different pace. One American website stated that it took their entire family some 6-7 hours to finish the hike. This I find unbelievably fast (don’t know if they are superheroes or what), but it can be considered as a bottom estimate of the time.
On the other hand, some guys on the Alltrails app stated it took them around 12 hours to complete the hike. This is a bit long in my opinion, but it can be pretty much realistic if you have a slow hiking pace. So yes, the estimate to complete the entire hike is somewhere between 7 to 12 hours and depends on both the weather and your hiking skills.
Last part of the Fimmvorduhals hike
We’ve done the Fimmvorduhals hike in the perfect weather and it took us 8 hours to complete it, including small food breaks and several little photo pauses. If I had to assess our pace, I would say it was pretty quick in the beginning and then we slowed down considerably. So, to sum it up, our pace was probably medium-to-quick. This may change drastically in case of bad weather, though, so count on that, please.
This is also how I recommend doing the hike. It’s better to be quicker in the beginning, not make that many pauses and check the trail map about your status. If you realize that 3 hours have passed and you are already halfway through the hike (as we realized), then your pace is probably quick and you can slow down. And vice versa – if you realize that 5 hours have passed and you are halfway through the hike, then your pace is probably slower and you should hurry up to make it under 10 hours.
Who to go with
This may be a strange question for someone, but I’m gonna put it in here anyway 🙂 My wife didn’t feel like doing such a long and strenuous hike and I didn’t want to push her. On the other hand, I really wanted to do the hike. So how do we solve this situation? One of the options is to go alone. Yes, this is doable. We even met a girl our age who has done the hike alone. Still, I don’t recommend going alone. You never know what can happen during the hike and it’s always better to have a companion for a plethora of reasons.
Little streams in the beginning of the Fimmvorduhals trail
I knew I didn’t want to go alone for the trail I hadn’t already known. But I didn’t give up and I decided to find a company – via FB. There are many groups on Facebook devoted to Iceland, one of them particularly popular called “Travel Iceland”. I’m thankful to this group for useful Icelandic info and even for finding a hiking buddy for the Fimmvorduhals hike 🙂 And I was pretty lucky, because (only after we started the hike) I realized my hiking buddy Vicente was really well equipped and an experienced hiker.
Difficulty
I’m originally from Slovakia where we do have somewhat high (2500+ meters) mountains. I’m used to hiking, though I wouldn’t say I’m any good at it. I would consider the hike to be of medium difficulty. The trail itself is not that difficult. The first half of the trail is basically a long gravel/clay walk without any steep sections. The only real issue with the Fimmvorduhals hike might be its length – for someone this hike may be too long for 1 day. For me, it was just right and I still had some energy left after the finish.
The second half of the trail (after the hut) is slightly more technical, but except for one spot, I didn’t find it dangerous or highly difficult. This one spot is the 2nd hill after the Baldvinsskali hut (when going from the Skogar direction). There’s a steep slope with the ground consisting of a mix of clay, ice, and ash. The grip is not very good and the angle/slope is pretty steep. This is the only part where I felt unsafe and even scared a bit. But that may be my specific issue – I just don’t like steep slopes with bad grip and uneven terrains – like ice and ash. This is where hiking poles literally saved my life (or at least avoided a broken leg).
Resting after finishing the most difficult part of the hike
Snowfields were not any big issue for us, they were easily passable and not steep at all. No crampons were needed. I even took a pair with me, just to be sure, but I didn’t need to use them at all. Next, the only part of the hike with chains – the part after Modi and Magni volcanoes – wasn’t that dangerous in my opinion. Yes, the chains are a bit scary, or better said, the steep fall below them is a bit scary – but this part is short and thanks to the chains easily doable.
Last but not least, the famous Kattarhryggur pass – the “cat’s spine”, was maybe a bit scary because it was narrow, but otherwise it was not any difficult. The pass has firm and flat ground, so if the wind isn’t too strong it shouldn’t be an issue.
For some inexperienced hikers or visitors afraid of heights (like my wife) this hike may be too stressful. For medium+ experienced hikers used to heights, chains and mountain passes it is definitely doable, some may even consider it to be easy. It’s definitely long, though.
Clothes and equipment
I’m not much of a person who would advise you which jacket you should buy on Amazon 🙂 But I can definitely advise you to dress well for the Fimmvorduhals hike. What does “dress well” mean? Well, dress for any kind of weather – especially rain, wind, and cold. A waterproof layer (pants and jacket) is a must (at least in your backpack). Something to protect you from cold and wind is a must as well (some backup hat, gloves, jacket, etc.). You might not need any of these if the sun shines and the wind is non-existent, but they come priceless if the weather turns to the dark side.
The temperature during the summer hike usually ranges anywhere between 5°C-20°C (51F – 68F). If the wind blows badly and the sun doesn’t shine, you may easily feel like -5°C (23F) even in August, though! On the other hand, without wind, and with the sun shining, there were parts when we hiked in our T-shirts only.
Do you need hiking poles? For 98% of the trail I would say you don’t. BUT. For the steep section after the Baldvinsskali hut, I cannot imagine going without them. My friend Vicente, though, has done it without any hiking poles, but he’s a hiking machine :)). My final advice would be – better take them.
Views from the Fimmvorduhals into the Thorsmork valley
Do you need crampons? During the best time to go (mid-July to the end of August) you don’t need them at all. At other times it really depends. But the parts covered the most by snow are not very steep, so I wouldn’t say you need crampons under normal circumstances.
Anything other to take? Good shoes, sun cream in case of sunny weather, water and food (there’s no place to buy any during the trail and Skogar campsite is not well equipped).
Our experience
Since the day I’ve first seen the Fimmvorduhals hike and read about it, I knew I have to try it 🙂 Planning is crucial for the Fimmvorduhals hike (see above). After many changes, we finally decided to go for the hike on Day 3 of our highlands trip.
A month before the hike I found my hiking buddy via Facebook group Travel Iceland. My wife didn’t feel like going for such a long hike and I didn’t want to push her. My buddy – Vicente – seemed to know what he was doing, although you never know before you really get to know each other 🙂 I took care of the entire organization of the trip – i.e. mainly choosing the specific day, buying bus tickets, and making a bus seat reservation.
The final part of the Fimmvorduhals hike near Thorsmork
Our plan
We had a 3-day window when we could both do the hike (as an intersection of my and Vicente’s schedule). I waited 5 days before the hike and when the weather looked reasonable I booked the bus (10% discount code: in our newsletter) and reserved the seats for Friday. I received the response from the bus company anytime from 1 hour after my email to almost 24 hours – but they always responded and always positively. Vicente travelled from Reykjavik, I travelled from Hvolsvollur.
The plan for our trip was as follows:
Vicente getting on the bus at 7:00 in Reykjavik towards Skogar
Me coming by car to Hvolsvollur and getting on the same bus to Skogar at 9:00
Starting the hike at 10:00 in Skogar
Finish the hike before 20:00 in Basar
Take the bus back from Basar hut at 20:00 – me to Hvolsvollur, my friend to Reykjavik
The waterfall way in the first third of the Fimmvörðuháls hike
3 days before the hike the weather forecast changed and it looked much better for Saturday. So, I wrote a kind email to the bus company asking for rescheduling and they quickly replied positively. 2 days before the hike the forecast started to show some strong winds exactly in the worst part of the hike – between the two glaciers. I decided to reschedule again – back to Friday – although I must have looked dumb already at that point in the eyes of the bus company.
On a Thursday evening, I looked at the forecast once again and it showed slight rain for Friday and the wind forecast for Saturday disappeared. I felt like an idiot but I decided to write the bus company once again and reschedule the trip for the fourth time. They replied late in the evening that yes, it’s rescheduled. At that moment I just prayed I had made a good decision. And it turned out I did. The weather on our day was almost perfect.
The snowy part of the hike
The Fimmvorduhals trail step by step
0. Map of the Fimmvorduhals trail
Click to enlarge:
Fimmvörðuháls hike map (from Skógar to Thórsmörk)
1. Skógar and Skogafoss
The Fimmvorduhals trail starts with the magnificent, giant green scenery of Skogar. This is usually the place where most of the tourists both start and finish, as was the case during our first visit to Skogafoss. While Skogafoss is an admiringly beautiful place definitely worth visiting, it’s a mistake not to continue further up the Skogafoss waterfall trail. It doesn’t take too long to finish it, nor is the trail too hard. So we do recommend you reserve some extra time to see it!
Bottom part of Skógafoss waterfall (and a wedding in the background ☺)
2. The waterfall way
It is the waterfall way that begins with the famous Skogafoss and continues with several other, less known but not any less beautiful waterfalls. The waterfall way is one of the most beautiful short hikes in Iceland I’ve seen. I can highly recommend doing this hike to everyone – even if you don’t want to continue. Just take the waterfall way from Skogar and come back.
The waterfall way looking back to Skogar
The entire waterfall way is around 8 kilometers long and took us around 2 hours to complete from Skogafoss to the last waterfall on the route. That being said, we hiked very quickly with only short pauses for taking pictures. At a relaxed pace, it may take some 2.5-3 hours one way. But you don’t need to take it all the way to the end. The most beautiful part was its first half, i.e. some first 4 kilometers. Doing that as a roundtrip makes for some 3-hour long hike at a relaxed pace that everyone can make.
The Fimmvörðuháls hike trail during the waterfall way part
Water and moss are literally everywhere during this part of the Fimmvorduhals hike. We felt as if we were a part of some fairy tale, with hobbits possibly chasing us somewhere. This hike is also doable even if it rains lightly and the visibility isn’t perfect, so it’s a great candidate also for moody days. And what’s one of the best features about Icelandic landscapes – they look very different in the cloudy and in the sunny weather. So, you may even visit them twice and still have a different experience!
One of the largest waterfalls at the waterfall way of the Fimmvorduhals hike
3. The ascent towards Baldvinsskáli hut
The waterfall way ends with a little bridge and roughly marks the first third of the Fimmvorduhals hike. The next part is the most boring one – the first part of the ascent towards Baldvinsskali hut. For around 40-50 minutes there’s pretty much nothing to see and you just have to walk up the gravel road where emergency vehicles can drive to Baldvinsskali hut.
The most boring part of the Fimmvorduhals hike – right after the end of the waterfall way
Then you will reach the area where nice views start to slowly appear – in good weather with good visibility of course. The combination of snow, gravel, and hills in the distance is very nice, though definitely not the best part of the hike. We soon spotted the Baldvinsskali hut in front of us, and, as expected, it was covered in a fog 🙂
Fimmvorduhals trail just before the Baldvinsskali hut
This part of the hike took us around 1.5 hours to complete, still at a pretty quick pace, including a 10-minute lunch break. After 3.5 hours of quick pace, we were supposed to be already almost halfway through the entire hike. This meant, we decided to slow our pace and enjoy the scenery more and take more pictures.
A very bad selfie (and our only picture) of us in front of the Baldvinsskáli hut in a total fog
4. Between the two glaciers
The middle part of the hike – between the Baldivnsskali hut and the Kattarhryggur pass is the most difficult one, yet I still think – not too difficult. This is also where the weather usually gets worse (more foggy, rainy, or windy). We were pretty lucky, though, to have nearly perfect weather with fog only on at a short part near the hut. This middle part is also the one where hiking poles do come in handy.
Right after the Baldvinsskali hut, first glacial snowfields of the Fimmvorduhals trail appear
The first snowfield appears right after the Baldvinsskali hut (coming from the Skogar direction) and in our case was pretty easy to walk on. Just remember we had no rain, no wind, and an occasional fog and sun. There are several other snowfields on a way towards the craters of Magni and Modi. None of the snowfields seemed difficult to us and crampons were useless in our opinion. If you walk carefully and follow the steps in the snow (in case they are there), you shouldn’t have a problem crossing the fields. This part of the hike really felt like “ICEland” thanks to all this snow even in the middle of the summer.
5. The most difficult part of the Fimmvorduhals hike
After a few snowfields, the most difficult part of the hike (at least for me) followed. We descended into the small valley full of ash, clay, and melting ice and snow. Firstly, we had to descend down through the slippery path consisting of ice and ash. It was unclear where exactly the path led and we had to find our own. OK, done. But next, we had to climb the very unpleasant hill. We had already seen several hikers in front of us struggling at this part and in a while, I completely understood why.
For me the most difficult part of the Fimmvörðuháls trail in front of us
The hill in front of us was pretty steep and had a pretty bad grip. It reminded me of the slippery part of the hike to Bláhnjukúr in Landmannalaugar, but this one was much worse. This hill again consisted of black ash, melting ice, gravel, and clay. None of them was any firm and I felt like slipping and falling with each step. And this didn’t feel very pleasant given that you were on a steep slope. This part was the only one where I was a bit scared and which seemed dangerous to me. But that may be only me – I just hate places where I can’t stand firmly on the ground.
The steep and slippery trail made of ash and dry clay. Hiking poles saved my life.
Hiking poles literally saved my life at this part and thanks to them I was able to finish it without stumbling. I cannot imagine hiking this part in rain or strong wind, that must be terrifying.
6. Almost two thirds into the hike
Afterwards, several lunar landscapes followed. Red ash, black ash, moon-like hills, really a once-in-a-lifetime experience. The terrain wasn’t difficult anymore at this part. The only spot where we were slightly confused was a crossroad where you had to decide to go on a big snowfield or climb through big black lava stones. We decided to go for the stones and then followed to the nearest yellow stick-mark.
For me one of the 3 most beautiful parts of the Fimmvörðuháls hike
What follows is a beautiful picturesque lunar area around the craters of Magni and Modi. The views are getting better at this part and in nice weather, you are able to already see a bit into Thorsmork valley as well as into the other beautiful valleys in the distance.
7. Magni and Modi craters
If you have time, definitely go for the little detour up to the Móði crater. It takes less than 10 minutes to reach the top (turn left in the direction of the red peak, coming from the Baldvinsskali hut).
Unforgettable views from the peak of the Móði crater
If the visibility is good, views from the top of the Móði crater are entirely stunning. 5 hours have passed and we were already two-thirds into the entire hike, so we took our time and stayed for a while on top of the Móði, enjoyed the views, and slowly descended back.
One of the highest points of the Fimmvorduhals hike with stunning views
Shortly after reaching Magni and Modi craters, the magnificent Thorsmork valley starts to reveal itself in front of you. This was one of my favorite views of the entire hike. A huge green valley, mountains, rivers, and different valleys are everywhere in the distance. From this point onwards, only the descent follows – no more climbs 🙂
8. The only chains of the hike
The only chains at Fimmvörðuháls trail
As you approach Thorsmork, views are getting better and better. Eventually, we reached the only technical passage of this part of the hike – chains. The descent continues next to the steep ravine and to make it more safe chains were tied into the nearby stones. Take care though, some of them are moving. This passage is a little bit scary when looking at it but otherwise isn’t dangerous because you just walk on the firm flat ground, holding onto chains (and the ravine is below you).
This is the wrong way. The right path leads to the left via chains.
My friend mistakenly took the wrong way and had to literally jump a bit from the cliff to be able to proceed. Do not take this way, it’s dangerous. After seeing him struggling, I took the right path described above. Chains are the right part. Take chains.
The part many find the most dangerous. Not me. Chains to the right, valley to the left.
These chains at Fimmvorduhals are the part many people described as the scariest one. I definitely didn’t think so. The worst part for me was the one in the middle of the hike with slippery ash and clay without any chains.
9. Thorsmork valley descent
Views of Thórsmörk from the final part of the Fimmvörðuháls trail
The final slightly technical part of the entire hike is the famous Kattarhryggur, or “cat’s spine” pass. It’s a narrow pass where there’s a steep ravine both on your left and on your right. There are no chains, but the pass is pretty flat with firm ground. Unless the weather is very windy or otherwise unpleasant, hiking this part shouldn’t be any problem.
A famous Kattarhryggur (cat’s spine) pass was not that bad in a beautiful weather
The gradual descent into the Thorsmork valley continues afterward. Huge green areas with views towards Thorsmork, Krossa river, and its arms. We made roughly a 1-hour long break before Kattarhryggur to admire the surroundings and arrived down at the Basar hut at 7 PM. Without the break, the hike would take us 8 hours at a medium-to-quick pace, including photo pauses and short food pauses. Our bus was supposed to leave from the Basar hut so we stayed at Basar and waited for it.
Coming back
If you have time, energy, or you simply don’t go for the bus from Basar, you may continue on foot to other campsites which are further away. The closest one is the Langidalur campsite (another bus stop), which is roughly 30 minutes by walk from Basar. And then there’s also the Husadalur campsite with well-known Volcano huts, which is another 20-30 minutes by walk from the Langidalur campsite. We took the bus from Basar to Hvolsvollur (and my friend to Reykjavik) at 8 PM and ended our beautiful day.
If you type into Google “super jeep rent iceland”, one of the top queries is an article suggestively titled “Why renting a super jeep in Iceland is the dumbest thing you can do”. This is a non-sense statement and anyone with only a little knowledge about Iceland has to disagree.
There’s no precise answer to this question. Generally, by a “super jeep” someone means a bigger than usual jeep/car. Is the Toyota Land Cruiser already a super jeep? Probably not really. What I consider to be a super jeep is a 4×4 car/jeep with some (or better all) of the following:
-artificially modified (raised) ground clearance -35” tires and bigger -special tires for roads with a bad grip -snorkel -strong engine -systems of low gear clutch, differential lock, and any other support for ascends and descends
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Someone says it’s not a super jeep unless it has tires smaller than 40”. Well, he may be right because there’s no definition of what super jeep is, so anyone may create his own 🙂
For our highlands trip, we rented a raised Toyota Landcruiser with 33” tires, special Cooper Discoverer tires for highlands roads, snorkel, and obviously 4×4 with the systems of low gear clutch and differential lock. I already consider this car to be kind of a super jeep, thanks to all its features.
Some of the most typical “super jeeps” are Land Rover Defender and Super Defender models and then endless variants of raised Toyota Hiluxes, Land Cruisers, Mitsubishi Pajeros, Ford Excursions, etc., etc. You can also observe raised Suzuki Jimneys, various Mercedes models, and so on. There are many types of vehicles that may be modified to “become super jeeps,” and it’s a pretty costly process.
Do you need a super jeep?
The Google article isn’t entirely wrong. Most of the Icelandic visitors don’t need any super jeep. It’s all about WHERE you plan to go and WHEN you want to go there.
If you plan to drive the ring road only (and places really close to it), renting a super jeep would be a waste of money. More so, if you are in Iceland for 3-4 days going only to the Golden Circle and some well-known touristy places. These are the cases when it doesn’t make sense at all to rent a super jeep.
If you plan to go to Landmannalaugar, and/or Askja, and/or Kerlingarfjoll in summer – all of these are pretty much “accessible” parts of the highlands. Yes, a super jeep may help you get there with more ease, but it would once again be useless most of the time.
On the other hand, if you want to explore remote places without tourists – Icelandic highlands – this is where you really need a super jeep (or an experienced guide). To get there SAFELY and RELIABLY, you will need a super jeep to get to:
Some may argue – “But I drove F210 in Dacia Duster and it was fine!” – well, good for you man 🙂 It’s surely possible in good weather – but it doesn’t give you any certainty and puts you at huge risk. You may get stuck somewhere in the middle of the river and pay 10 000+ Eur for towing and repairs. Not to mention – there were even cases where tourists died driving F-roads in Dusters. Driving one of the most difficult F-roads in the Duster/Forester/Jimney or whatever the small 4×4 is simply irresponsible.
So, do you need a super jeep in Iceland? For many places no and for many places yes. Choose based on where you want to go!
Where to rent a super jeep?
It actually isn’t so easy to rent a super jeep in Iceland.
Firstly, not many companies will rent you a super jeep. The reason is, it’s very expensive to maintain a super jeep, to insure it, and to let tourists ruin it.
Secondly, it’s pretty expensive to rent a super jeep, due to the reasons mentioned above.
Thirdly, since we’re talking about a lot of money – you need a RELIABLE super jeep car rental. There were some companies in the past which rented cheap super jeeps and both – the customers and the companies – usually ended up badly. Flat tires, broken cars, big repair bills, bankrupt companies – these all can happen with unreliable rental companies. Trust me, you don’t want to experience these!
Thanks to all of the things mentioned above, it’s pretty easy to get together the list of all reliable super jeep rental companies in Iceland.
MyCar
MyCar is a Toyota-licensed car rental company with an exclusive network of all Toyota repair shops all around Iceland. They rent exclusively Toyota cars. The biggest cars in their portfolio include Hilux, Land Cruiser, and raised Land Cruiser.
Exclusive 5% discount on all MyCar rentals with the promo code: EPICICELAND
Our favorite option with MyCar is a raised Toyota Landcruiser with 33” tires, special Cooper Discoverer tires for highlands roads, snorkel, and obviously 4×4 with the systems of low gear clutch and differential lock. I already consider this car to be kind of a super jeep, thanks to all its features. Yes, the tires could be a bit bigger, but otherwise, the car is a beast and it’s very well capable to serve you for almost all parts of Icelandic highlands.
F261 near Markarfljotsgljufur canyon
We rented a raised Land Cruiser with MyCar for our 18-day long highlands trip and were more than just satisfied. We drove more than 5000 kilometers during this trip and didn’t have a single issue with the car! No flat tire, no engine problems, no door problems, never got stuck, always able to drive through all kinds of terrain. This car was a beast. Not to mention – the typical travelers always gave us these envious looks when we were getting out of this beauty :))
Moreover, MyCar is a professional and reliable company with a long history. They give you their Toyota quality guarantee. MyCar has also wonderful reviews all over the internet. For us, this was a hidden gem among Icelandic car rental companies.
MyCar also offers its own insurance packages. However, we would recommend going only for the basic insurance package and buying the full insurance with RentalCover, which ends up being cheaper and with better insurance coverage. Feel free to read more on how car rental insurance works in Iceland and how to choose the best car rental insurance.
Isak 4×4
Isak car rental is a well-known superjeep car rental company with a 15-year long history. It specializes in renting Land Rover Defenders and Super Defenders. It also offers an older but raised Toyota Land Cruiser with the option of having a rooftop tent.
Exclusive 10% discount on all Isak 4×4 rentals with the promo code: epiciceland
Isak is a great company that I can only recommend. It can have some pretty good price deals, and it also offers some really bigger cars. All of the cars offered by Isak are very much suitable for almost all Icelandic F-roads and dirt tracks.
Isak flagship super jeep – Land Rover Super Defender
Isak also offers its own insurance packages. However, we would recommend going only for the basic insurance package and buying the full insurance with RentalCover, which ends up being cheaper and with better insurance coverage. Feel free to read more on how car rental insurance works in Iceland and how to choose the best car rental insurance.
Ice Rovers
Ice-Rovers Land Rover
The third on the list of reliable Icelandic superjeep car rental companies is Ice Rovers. As the name suggests, they specialize exclusively in renting Land Rover Defenders only. Ice-Rovers have a 25-year-long history. Their cars are well maintained and reliable as well as the company itself, but more expensive compared to both MyCar and Isak. All of Ice Rover’s superjeeps are very capable of driving most of the Icelandic F-roads and dirt tracks.
Exclusive 3% discount on all Ice-Rovers rentals: email ask for “3% Epic Iceland discount”.
Ice Rovers also offer their own insurance packages. However, we would recommend going only for the basic insurance package and buying the full insurance with RentalCover, which ends up being cheaper and with better insurance coverage. Feel free to read more on how car rental insurance works in Iceland and how to choose the best car rental insurance.
Geysir Car Rental
Geysir car rental is an interesting alternative to the three flagship super jeep companies mentioned above. Why? Because Geysir is renting some pretty unique super jeep models no other company in Iceland rents these days. Namely – a 35″ modified Land Cruiser with snorkel (see picture below) and a Jeep Wrangler with a rooftop tent. We are not aware of anyone else renting these pieces.
Unique 5% discount on all Geysir car rental cars with the promo code: EPICICELAND.
Other than the two unique models mentioned above, Geysir also rents two classics. The first of them is Land Rover Super Defenderwith a snorkel on 33″ tires. The second one is the classical Jeep Wrangler Rubicon. All these cars are very good even for difficult F-roads. That’s why we decided to include Geysir in our list.
The biggest super jeep by Geysir – 35″ Land Cruiser with snorkel
Geysir car rental also offers its own insurance packages. However, we would recommend going only for the basic insurance package and buying the full insurance with RentalCover, which ends up being cheaper and with better insurance coverage. Feel free to read more on how car rental insurance works in Iceland and how to choose the best car rental insurance.
Lotus
Lotus has only very recently joined the exclusive club of super jeep rental companies in Iceland. They introduced a fresh addition to their fleet with a modified 35″ Toyota Land Cruiser with a snorkel. As we already mentioned several times in this article – a modified Land Cruiser with a snorkel is one of the best jeeps you can possibly rent in Iceland! You will make no mistake with it, and it will take you almost anywhere.
Super Jeep Land Cruiser by Lotus
Now, don’t forget that Lotus is the only car rental company in Iceland that offers car insurance covering absolutely everything! The insurance, as the only one, also covers river crossings and undercarriage, making it a unicorn among all insurance options. To sum it up, with Lotus, you may now get the best jeep available and have it fully insured for all F-roads!
Exclusive 5% discount on all Lotus cars with the promo code: epicicelandd5
There’s just one caveat. Yes, you suspected it correctly. It’s the price tag. Having the best car with the best insurance on the market unsurprisingly turns out to also be the most expensive option.
The best price to value super jeep rental
If we had to pick just one “super jeep” rental company, it would be MyCar. Their raised Land Cruiser with a snorkel is our favorite. It’s still not so super expensive as super jeeps from the other companies and yet it is pretty sufficient for almost all F-roads and dirt tracks in Iceland. You can get a 5% discount for MyCar with code: EPICICELAND
MyCar raised Land Cruiser
Very comparable to MyCar is also Isak 4×4 with a wider choice of super jeeps (not just Land Cruiser) and similar pricing. You can get a 10% discount for Isak 4×4 with code: epiciceland. With the other companies, you will get a slightly bigger car but also for a bigger price.
Biggest super jeep
If your goal is the biggest superjeep and you don’t care about money at all – then go for Land Rover Super Defender by Isak. You can have a 10% discount on all cars with the code: epiciceland
Big super jeep + less expensive
If your goal is the biggest superjeep but you do have some money limits (but not too tight), then go for Geysir car rental and their modified 35″ Land Cruiser (5% discount code: EPICICELAND). Or go for modified Land Rovers by Ice Rovers (3% “Epic Iceland” email discount).
Me crossing the bigger Hólmsá river by MyCar’s modified Land Cruiser on F210 near Maelifell
Best super jeep insurance
The only company offering insurance that ultimately covers EVERYTHING, including river crossings and water damage is Lotus car rental (5% discount code: epicicelandd5). Combine this with their newly added 35″ Land Cruiser and you’ll get an unbeatable option! And also a pricy one.
Best value super jeep
If your goal is the best price to value super jeep for Icelandic roads, then go for MyCar with their raised Land Cruiser. 5% discount code: EPICICELAND
Þórsmörk. The “Valley of Thor” has been high on our list of to-visit places in the highlands, since our first ring road trip to Iceland. Why? Because it’s amazingly beautiful and it’s still one of the places which are not crowded yet.
The reason behind that is pretty straightforward – it’s accessibility. The road F249 leading there contains several river crossings which get bigger and bigger as the road progresses and eventually end with the biggest one – the Krossá river.
Thorsmork is an unbelievably gorgeous Highland spot, a one-in-the-world valley located near the ring road close to Seljalandsfoss. It is pretty hard to access, mainly due to treacherous river crossings, which need to be managed very very cautiously and with respect.
Stakkholtsgjá canyon Þórsmörk
Some say “never go to Thorsmork with a rental car!” or “go to Thorsmork only with a guide!”. While I mostly agree, this is still too much of a generalization. I would rather say: Don’t drive to Thorsmork if you are not WELL PREPARED. What does well prepared mean? You should go in the right season, during the right weather, drive the proper car, study the roads in advance, study the river crossings in advance and on-site.
If this is too much effort for you, then don’t go to Thorsmork with a rental car! For those willing to put up this extra effort, we wrote this guide on visiting Thorsmork.
The safest, most convenient (and most expensive) option to reach Thorsmork is to take the guided tour. Another safe and convenient option is to take the highland bus (10% discount code: in our newsletter). The biggest disadvantage of the bus, however, is that it will take you only to the final destination and not stop at the picturesque stops along the road. The option we chose was to drive to Thorsmork by car. This is definitely the most adventurous, the most time-consuming (you need to plan and prepare well), and naturally the least safe option. But still manageable if done correctly, with planning, with respect, and with previous experience.
If you plan to drive to Thorsmork yourself, you firstly need to choose a favorable time to do so (see below). Then, it is of the uttermost importance to choose the very good car capable of getting there. For Thorsmork this usually means Toyota Landcruiser AND bigger (31”+ tires), ideally with a snorkel. However, it’s not that simple. We wrote a detailed guide on how to choose the proper car and not forget anything. “Can we drive there in 4×4 Dacia Duster?” You may try. Some people succeeded, some wrecked their cars in rivers paying 10 000s Euros bills for that. Your decision. We don’t recommend that.
Toyota Land Cruiser in Thorsmork with Gigjokull glacier in the background
Last but not least, even with a proper car and during the proper time – you HAVE TO ford the rivers correctly. What does it mean correctly? At the right spot, at the right speed, from the right direction. And more. We wrote a detailed guide on river crossings, please read it if you plan to do them. Some examples that the car is not everything – just look at this 40” superjeep stuck in Krossá (our friend afterward crossed it with a much smaller car, because he chose the better crossing spot).
When to go to Thorsmork
Firstly, when the road F249 is open and serviced – i.e. only during the summer. Is that all? No, not at all. Secondly, the water level in the rivers should be favorable, i.e. as low as possible. How are you supposed to know what is the water level like right now? Well, that’s a good question without an easy and straightforward answer. To simplify it the most – ask someone local, check on road.is for warnings and always check on sight – ideally by wading the river firstly by walking into it yourself.
Thirdly, preferably only during good weather – no heavy rain, good visibility, no strong winds. Fourthly, none of the above would be sufficient if you don’t have a proper car and also if you don’t cross with proper technique.
There are many guided tours to Þórsmörk, but if we had to pick just one, it would be Midgard Adventure. Why Midgard and why not someone else? Well, firstly, they are a small Icelandic family company with funny and caring guides always willing to go the extra mile. On top of that, they have excellent reviews, and small groups and will always surprise you with something new!
Due to the reasons above, we decided to partner with Midgard Adventure, and we can offer our readers a 10% discount code:EPICICELAND10 on their best and most popular tours.
We had a base near Hella and were choosing where to go on our first day mostly based on the weather. As the weather looked nice all around the south, the choice was tough. After some thinking, we chose Thorsmork, because you really need a nice day to visit it. Our Icelandic friends had also told us that the water level in the rivers was pretty low these days, which encouraged us to try getting near the Langidalur campsite of the Thorsmork valley.
F249, a dangerous road to Thorsmork, due to its river crossings.
We had left our accommodation at 9 AM and headed towards Seljalandsfoss, where a detour towards Thorsmork lies – roads 249 and F249. Our ultimate destination for the day was the Langidalur campsite. We didn’t want to go directly there though, because this would involve crossing the Krossá river. However, it was still possible to avoid Krossá by leaving the car just a few meters away from the crossing and continuing by a footbridge. I also planned for several nice stops along the road, the first of them accessible even with a 2wd car.
Road 249 and the following F249 are gravel roads without any steep sections and without potholes, which is pretty good, given the roads are F-roads. The only quality issue with the roads (not talking about river crossings) is the big gravel. This means you have to drive really slowly to not damage your car and the journey will be bumpy anyway. The biggest caveat of F249 are river crossings, though.
Nauthusagil waterfall
Soon we arrived at the first stop of our trip – Nauthusagil canyon and waterfall. For us, Nauthusagil was one of the most magical places we’ve seen around Iceland. The place is still remote and not that much visited, despite its remarkableness. One way trip to Nauthusagil takes about 20 minutes.
Nauthuságil waterfall “parking” 🙂
The waterfall and the canyon are accessible even by a 2wd car because they still lie next to 249 road only. We left our car at the small car park, where at the time of our visit 3 other cars stood. At that moment, the sun had already started to shine in between the clouds, only confirming our view that this should be a very nice day for visiting Thorsmork.
After parking the car, we followed the paved path along the small stream heading towards (not yet to be seen) the hidden Nauthusagil canyon. The path is easy to follow and it’s almost impossible to get lost since there’s only one way. The path soon gets narrower and changes into the hop-on-the-stones route. The rest of the way is basically walking and jumping on the various types and sizes of stones and boulders in the little water stream.
Nauthusagil waterfall trail
Only walking the entire path is a truly magical experience. We felt like in a fairy tale. This was even underscored by the fact that we hadn’t met a single person yet at that time. The gorge is really beautiful and not that long. Soon you will reach the point where some tend to stop and turn, however that is a huge mistake in our opinion 🙂
If you want to get directly to the Nauthusagil waterfall, you have to climb 2-3 meters of boulders with a help of a vertical chain. Some find this spot intimidating, but even my wife who is afraid of all types of chains during hikes was able to make it with some help. It’s not the place for people with any movement problems, though.
Nauthusagil waterfall chains
The most beautiful part of this little hike comes right in the end. We reached the source of all this water – the Nauthusagil waterfall. And it quickly became one of our favorite Icelandic waterfalls at all. We were also lucky enough to be there completely alone. Moreover, the sun played its beam game by shining through the cracks from above making it an even more stunning experience. One of the top places in Iceland.
Magnificient Nauthusagil itself
My advice for Nauthusagil would be simple – go for it as soon as you can – before it becomes as crowded as many other Icelandic spots!
Gigjokull glacier
After leaving Nauthusagil canyon, road 249 soon changes into F249, which means the first river crossings are coming. The tour companies making trips to Thorsmork usually also stop next to the Gigjokull glacier. This is the glacier tongue pretty well visible on your right when coming from Seljalandsfoss direction. If I had to say how is it different from any other Icelandic glaciers – I’m not sure – maybe because of its steepness. Otherwise, it’s a classical blue-white-black color combination of ice-snow-ash when it comes to Icelandic glaciers.
The road to Gigjokull is a detour from 249 to the right towards the mountains. After driving for a few minutes, we reached the pretty fast-flowing river. The river looked like you definitely don’t want to wade into it by feet – which is also a good rule of thumb whether to try to ford it by car or not. If you are afraid to try it by feet, it’s probably too dangerous to drive through it as well. Hence, we decided to turn back. Looking back at the situation, I think our car was pretty much capable of doing that crossing, but never mind – better choose the safer option than to risk wrecking your car if feeling unsure.
Gígjökull glacier and river crossings
Beware, the Gígjökull tracks we drove are just dirt tracks. Not even F-roads. This means they are even harder to drive than F-roads. Always check with your rental company if it allows for such roads, choose your car wisely and study the roads in advance. Mostly only super jeeps are allowed to drive the dirt tracks.
I had studied before there’s also another road leading to Gigjokull – if you continue a few hundred meters further via F249 there’s yet another detour to the right. And yes, we tried even this route. But firstly, you have to cross the first “bigger river” near the Lónið lagoon. This was a first crossing that looked scary. Firstly, the river was flowing really fast, which is a thing you generally want to avoid. Secondly, we were not able to assess what the depth of the river actually was, because the current was dirty and we couldn’t see through to the bottom.
First scarier river crossing on F249 next to Lónið lagoon
Since trying to “randomly cross” is usually not a good option, I decided to put on my wading socks and get into the river myself. Although the current was strong as expected, the river was pretty shallow. Thus, I decided “it’s time to cross”. The crossing, although bumpy, was otherwise smooth and we safely made it to the other bank. Then we turned on the road to Gigjokull glacier, making it our second attempt to reach it.
Once again, we soon arrived at the fast-flowing river and the little hill leading down to the crossing was in a very bad condition with huge holes, stones, and sharp boulders all over the road. At that point, we already had a pretty nice view of the Gigjokull glacier (and didn’t want to waste the whole day for the glacier) so we decided to turn back and rather enjoy our next stops.
Me wading river Lónið at F249 in Thorsmork
We were heading towards Stakkholtsgja (see below) and on the way there, another major obstacle has been waiting for us. The crossing of the Steinsholtsá river may often be classified as bigger. We arrived at Steinsholtsa with big respect and were ready to turn back in any case if feeling unsure. We were lucky that at the time of our visit 1) water levels were generally low due to the dry period, 2) our friend reassured us this day was good to cross, 3) we could observe a car crossing right in front of us.
We wrote much more about river crossing tips, techniques and warnings here, though. Having almost ideal conditions for crossing, we decided to move forward and were able to finish the Steinsholtsa crossing without bigger problems.
Stakkholtsgja canyon
Our next stop was another supposedly-beautiful and not that much visited place – Stakkholtsgja canyon. We arrived at the improvised gravel car park – which can be found thanks to the sign “Stakkholtsgja” (or thanks to cars parking there ;)) We parked our car next to huge modified Land Cruisers with 40”+ tires, making our car look like a small one. I guess this time of the year these huge superjeeps were just overkill because the roads were passable even with a smaller car. But I’m also pretty sure that at many other times these beautiful ones do come pretty handy.
Stakkholtsgja canyon is a stunning ravine carved in between huge rock formations on the sides. The trail towards the end of the ravine (which ends up being surprisingly amazing) is an easy walk that takes around 40 minutes one way if you know the trail. If you don’t know the trail – as was our case – add around 30 minutes for figuring out how to ford the Stakkholtsgja river by feet 🙂
Stakkholstgjá canyon beginning of the trail
Stakkholtsgja ravine trail
Stakkholtsgja canyon hike is an unmarked hike where you again can’t get lost easily because it leads in between the two bigger hills. In the beginning, the path is a well-trodden mud path, which then turns into a gravel road leading along the river stream. Once again, only walking this path is an amazing experience, where you’re basically strolling through the base of this magnificent canyon. It definitely belongs to one of our favorite Icelandic canyons, easily surpassing e.g. Fjadrargljufur canyon (mainly due to being roughly a thousand times less touristy).
Stakkholstgja canyon trail
After 20 minutes of walking, we arrived at the river which was crossing the path. We met there the group of tourists who were trying to figure out the same as us – how to ford the river without getting wet? This was the question of the day 🙂 For about 20 minutes we desperately searched for a suitable place to ford – without success. The group we met probably made the same conclusion because they got their shoes off and crossed barefoot. This definitely didn’t look like a pleasant experience, not that much because of the cold water but mostly because of the uneven, rocky riverbed.
Fording Stakkholtsgjá
At that point, we looked at our trail map and realized we are already pretty close to the end of the trail, so we wanted to turn back – or more precisely, my wife wanted to 🙂 I didn’t want to give up that easily and persuaded my wife to keep searching for the way to cross. And actually, she was the one who found the proper way soon after our little argument. We crossed the river at its left part, some 100 meters before the river turns right (and crosses the trail). The crossing meant jumping several times from stone to stone and from mud to mud. We successfully didn’t get wet though and didn’t have to ford the river barefoot.
As much as I would love to describe the exact spot where we forded, I’m unable to do so. We didn’t take any footage while holding our hands and jumping from stone to stone. We may reassure you, though, it should be possible even without getting wet 🙂 Just search for the right spot.
Stakkholstgja river fording
After the ford, we continued hiking at the left part of the canyon reaching the final part of this little hike completely from the left (opposite to our first attempt from the right). At that point, we eventually met the group we had met before, that had just finished their barefoot ford. We continued towards the end of the trail (which was located pretty close by). At that moment we realized what a good decision it was not to turn back. We arrived at the end of the canyon which is a huge stony gorge and you may hike it all the way up through the big boulders!
Stakkholstgja ravine waterfall
Rewarding End
This is exactly what we did and didn’t regret doing it at all. It’s a place somewhat similar to Nauthusagil ravine but much much bigger and still somewhat different. I definitely do recommend making the extra effort to get there to be able to admire this beauty. Surroundings like from a different world.
Stakkholstgja ravine with its “secret” endpoint
When coming back from the endpoint of the Stakkholtsja hike, we again struggled a little bit to find the best spot to ford the river, but after a few minutes, we again managed to cross the river without getting wet. Back at the car park, we saw a couple with a guide apparently on a “private tour”. They just went out of the car, looked at the canyon from the distance, and headed back. What a pity they weren’t advised to continue towards the end of the gorge…
F249 river crossings
We already mentioned two major river crossings in the text above – Lónið lagoon river crossing and Steinsholstá river crossing. The Steinsholtsa river is notoriously known for getting some tourist cars drowned regularly. You really ideally need to do all of the following: 1) ask locals for conditions, 2) look at the weather forecast, 3) have a proper car, 4) have already some experience with river crossings, 5) check for conditions onsite, ideally by wading the river yourself by feet or watching someone cross before you. Read more on river crossing rules and techniques on our blog.
On our way to Langidalur campsite (towards Valahnjukur hike), there were 3 more major river crossings. The first of them was the Stakkholstgjá river, the second crossing was the Hvanná river and the third one was the famous Krossá river. We did the first two crossings (Stakkholtsgja and Hvanna) in our car and definitely wanted to avoid Krossá as it is too dangerous. We highly recommend you avoid it as well.
Crossing Steinsholtsá river on F249
F249 river crossings of Stakkholstgjá and Hvanná were very similar to the Steinsholtsá crossing we described above. We were lucky with having almost perfect conditions of low water levels, i.e. shallow rivers and even some drivers crossing right before us, so we didn’t even have to wade these two rivers by feet. However, oftentimes the conditions are much worse! That being said, if you are unsure, better try fording by feet / or wait for someone else to cross first. And if still feeling unsure, better always turn back!
Valahnjukur hike
As a next activity, I wanted to do a hike which would give us a nice view from above the entire Thorsmork area. I studied beforehand all of the hikes available around the area (and there are many of them) and finally opted for probably the shortest one. Not because we couldn’t do a longer one, but because the Valahnjukur hike seemed to be the best in terms of view/difficulty ratio. And it was 🙂
Valahnjukur hiking trail
Thorsmork hiking trails
Thorsmork is a hiker’s paradise. Here is the map of all Thorsmork hiking trails (or at least most of them). If you are into hiking, you may easily spend here a week and still not be able to hike every trail. That being said, the area has a similar “nature shape” around all of the hikes. This means if you choose just one good hike during the good weather (no rain and good visibility) it will give you a very good overview of the area. And any other hike will be pretty similar in terms of views and surroundings.
Thorsmork hiking trails map
On the next day, I did a Fimmvorduhals hike, which actually was much higher in terms of peak height compared to Valahnjukur. But the view over the Thorsmork valley still wasn’t as good as from Valahnjukur – so the height isn’t everything, also the location is.
Crossing Krossá
An ideal start point for the Valahnjukur hike is the Langidalur campsite, which is located right next to it. How to get to the Langidalur campsite? To get to Langidalur, you need to cross the Krossá river. We definitely didn’t want to do this in the car, even when the water levels were pretty low and we had a big car. Krossá is notoriously known to be one of the most dangerous river crossings in Iceland, due to its strong current, uneven riverbed, and deep water levels.
So what if you don’t want to ford Krossá by car? Well, you can either take the bus (as we mentioned in the beginning), or call the “Krossa taxi” at Volcano huts (but you need to get closer to Husadalur campsite in this case). Or you may use the footbridge over Krossa – if it’s there – as we did.
Thorsmork Krossá Langidalur footbridge
When are the footbridges in place and when not? They are in place during summer if it is not too dangerous. What does it mean too dangerous? Well, mostly high water levels and/or bad weather. Yes, that water level can even reach the footbridge – in that case, the footbridge is removed by rangers and you cannot cross Krossa any other way than by superjeep/bus. Exactly this was the case some 4-5 days after our trip – it rained a lot in the area and the footbridges were removed. And even the Icelandic bus got stuck in Krossa at that time!
However, as I mentioned, at the time of our visit Krossá was calm. We parked the car close to the big green footbridge over Krossá and used the bridge. Please, be sure to park the car in the right spot – i.e. NOT on the road and NOT even on any tracks which you see on the ground. Buses and modified superjeeps use this way, so please don’t get your car in their way to not get yourself fined. Leave your car next to the road on the gravel – use your common sense.
Right after we climbed on the bridge, we spotted an Icelandic bus nearby. We waited to watch it do the Krossá crossing. It’s always admirable to see it being done correctly 🙂 The bus didn’t go exactly where the road led, but rather it made a turn and positioned itself in the direction of the stream. Exactly as you should do it according to the river crossing rules – go down the stream. Even under these very good, dry conditions, we saw how the bus was shaking on an uneven riverbed. We just got a visual confirmation that the decision to not do the crossing on our own was good.
Valahnjukur
Coming back to Valahnjukur – Valahnjukur is a really easy, quick, and very rewarding hike in terms of views all around the Thorsmork valley. You can easily do it with your family or your older relatives. Even in rain, the hike seems to be pretty doable. Just keep an eye on visibility – if it’s foggy, you won’t see anything, I’m sorry. But since Thorsmork is located in between the mountains, all the storms and clouds tend to “break” on them, and the weather in the valley is usually much better compared to all the nearby places (e.g. Fimmvorduhals pass). More about this in our “How to find nice weather in Iceland” article.
A spectacular view from the top of Valahnjukur
Valahnjukur hike is well marked right from the Langidalur campsite, and, again, it’s almost impossible to get lost. It took us around 30 minutes one way to get to the peak, including pauses for photos and view admiration.
We arrived at the peak of Valahnjukur at 4 PM. We were lucky enough to both – be there alone and have beautiful visibility all around the area. This is one of the best short hikes all around Iceland. If you are able to reasonably get here, I definitely do recommend you take it. Views are simply stunning.
Thorsmork Valahnjukur hike
To come back to Langidalur, you may either use the same trail (the quickest option) or take the loop firstly to Husadálur and then back to Langidalur. We went for the first option because there is pretty much nothing special to be seen on the second route.
On our way back to Hella I wanted to make two more stops – Gljufrabui waterfall and Seljavallalaug hot spring (yes, both the really touristy ones, we had not been there yet before and wanted to see them). Anyway, my wife told me she has enough energy for one more stop only, so we compromised on picking Seljavallalaug hot spring.
The water level in the rivers usually tends to be higher in the afternoon/evening due to melting ice. At the time of our visit, however, this wasn’t the case. We already knew from the crossings in the morning that the rivers are pretty shallow, so the crossings weren’t problematic nor time-consuming this time. Please take special care that this is also true in your case – it doesn’t have to be!
F-roads are rough, unpaved gravel roads leading to the inner part of Iceland – the highlands. They are sometimes also called highland roads or mountain roads and often involve river crossings.
Good preparation and a proper car are necessary. Driving the F-roads is totally worth it, though, because the Icelandic highlands surrounding them are the most beautiful uncrowded parts of Iceland.
We’ve compiled for you a comprehensive list of all Icelandic F-roads. It’s based upon both personal experiences with driving the roads and extensive studying of other travelers’ experiences.
We’ve spent months driving F-roads in Iceland during several different trips in different cars and under various road conditions. We learned A LOT and have lots of valuable tips, which we share in this guide.
We also wrote a detailed article about Icelandic roads, their types, and passability, which we recommend reading too.
Crossroads between Möðrudalsleið road and F905
Cars for F-roads
A 4wd car is compulsory on all F-roads. There are many types of 4wd cars and also many types of F-roads, though. Driving with a small 4wd car on a difficult F-road is dangerous and, on the other hand, driving with a huge 4×4 car on an easy F-road may be expensive. It’s important to choose your car properly based on which F-roads you plan to drive:
Easy F-roads: small river crossings, normal terrain. Any 4wd car is suitable.
Medium F-roads: medium river crossings, harder terrain. A bigger 4wd car is needed.
And how are you supposed to know which F-road is easy and which is difficult? We wrote a List of the 10 easiest F-roads, and also a detailed description of every F-road just below in this article.
Crossing the (often) treacherous Syðri-Ófæra river on F233 with a big 4wd car with snorkel
Opening dates 2025
F-roads in Iceland usually open once all the snow on the roads melts. This typically happens anywhere between the beginning of June and the end of July. Most of the F-roads tend to open before the main summer season begins, i.e. at the beginning of July. Of course, there are other factors, like river levels, road reconstructions, etc., but the main one is snow. It’s also important to understand the difference between “impassable road”, “closed road” and “no winter service” roads, which we cover in our Icelandic Roads article.
Openings depend on weather and location. The colder the weather, the later the opening. The more snow in the preceding winter, the later the opening. The warmer the spring the sooner the opening. The more the road is located to the center of Iceland (the coldest part of Iceland), the later it opens. Below are the statistics for the past few years. Here are the latest available statistics. For example, in 2022 several roads opened even later than the latest date in the table below (2017-2021 table at that time), due to an extraordinarily strong winter.
F-roads Opening dates
When do F-roads close? Once a road becomes too difficult to pass, for whatever reason – snow, rain, storm. Seasonally, this typically happens sometime between the end of August and mid-October, most frequently in the second half of September, once the first heavy snow arrives in the highlands. No statistics, like the ones above, exist on these.
I will answer this question for all of the roads at once. Google Maps is pretty much quite precise in time estimates,even when it comes to F-roads. That means if you are planning your trip, you may more or less rely on Google time estimates. There are a few caveats though.
Google Maps estimate is an estimate under standard conditions. This usually assumes, for example, normal weather, crossing the rivers immediately, etc. So what are the other things you need to account for other than standard conditions?
Worse weather. This means anything from heavy rain, through a huge fog, to strong wind. Incorporate these into your estimates.
Proper car. You need to drive a 4×4 car on all F-roads. However, 2 different 4×4 cars may be as different as night and day.
Your driving skills. I’ve seen many much slower drivers when driving in Iceland. But I’ve also seen some much quicker. I would say I’m somewhere in the middle then, and I aligned with Google times quite well.
River crossings. If you don’t know the river you are crossing, or if you are just inexperienced, you should take enough time to examine the river.
Tourists. Yes, in high season there may even be a traffic jam on some F-roads. This may slow you down. Or maybe you will be the cause of the traffic jam? 🙂
Pauses. You’re gonna make MANY of them. To eat, to take a picture, to go use the toilet, etc. Calculate with these as well.
F26 – Sprengisandsleið
F26, Sprengisandur, or Sprengisandsleið, are all names of the same road. F26 is one of the longest Icelandic F-roads. It’s one of the only 2 roads which connect southern and northern Iceland directly. The first one is F35, which is much easier to drive compared to the rougher F26. The road is deserted, without any campsites, guesthouses, supermarkets, or even gas stations along the road.
You have to drive 250 kilometers with no possibility to refuel, mostly no cell phone coverage, nor any internet network. That being said, driving F26 is a huge adventure, just better be properly prepared for it. Bring enough water, food, and warm clothes, in case you needed to stop unexpectedly and wait for someone else to pass by and help you.
Yes, there’s one main river crossing on F26, roughly in the middle of the road, right next to Nýidalur hut. The river is called Hagakvisla and it’s pretty unpredictable. Usually, it’s a medium-sized river crossing, but it can get bigger with strong rain and especially the current can get stronger.
We write in detail about the river crossing in our separate article about F26.
What car do I need for F26?
It’s best to drive a large 4×4 like Land Cruiser for F26 due to the unpredictable Hagakvislar river crossing near Nyidalur. In very good conditions, a minimum requirement is a medium-sized 4×4 SUV like Dacia Duster. However, the bigger the car, the better. You will make no mistake when opting for a super-jeep.
F35 has been reclassified to just “35” in recent years, due to road improvements. Still, Google Maps mark it as F35. Another name used for Kjalvegur is Kjölur. These are the synonyms. Icelanders use Kjölur more frequently.
F35 is the second-longest Icelandic F-road. It’s one of the only 2 roads which connect southern and northern Iceland directly. The first one is F26, which is much tougher to drive compared to the easier F35. The road F35 is long and remote, without any campsites, guesthouses, supermarkets, or even gas stations directly along the road.
BUT. You’re gonna meet many fellow travelers along the road. We met many of them even during Covid times. The reason is, there are two main points of interest near F35 – Kerlingarfjoll and Hveravellir. Both of them provide small guesthouses/hotels and restaurants. Just tank enough fuel to complete this approx. 180km route.
Is there a river crossing on F35?
There are no river crossings on F35. That’s one of the reasons why you will meet a lot more traffic on this road compared to F26. It’s also the reason why this road is much easier to drive than F26 or many other F-roads.
F35, aka Kjalvegur, near Hveravellir
What car do I need for F35?
You will be fine with any 4wd car. There are many potholes and small ponds with some water, but otherwise, F35 is easy to drive. It’s just long. I would say road 35/F35 is doable also by a 2wd car in good weather conditions. However, we better recommend taking a smaller/cheaper 4wd car.
F66 is the only road that leads across the central Westfjords and directly connects the northern part of Westfjords with the southern part.
Is there a river crossing on F66?
Yes, there are some small river crossings (more like streams than rivers). Nothing serious though.
What car do I need for F66?
This depends on weather conditions. In normal weather, you will be fine with any 4wd car, even a small SUV. In rainy and windy weather, however, F66 may get really challenging with the muddy ground and wind blowing.
With F66, the main challenge lies not in the river crossings, but in its steepness and terrain. It’s one of the most mountainous roads in Iceland.
F88 is the shortest (and during low water levels the quickest) road to reach Askja, and also a controversial one 🙂 It connects the ring road in the north to F910. Why controversial? Most of the “bloggers” will advise you that F88 is much more dangerous and harder to drive than F905 and F910 combination. But did they actually drive F88? No.
The truth is when water levels of Lindaá river on F88 are high, then yes, F88 is more difficult due to this one particular spot. Otherwise the opposite is the case.
If you are a first-time visitor with little experience in Icelandic river crossings, better take F905 and F910 to avoid assessing whether water levels on F88 are high or not.
Is there a river crossing on F88?
Yes, there is one main river crossing, closer to an intersection with F910 – the Lindaá River. This river is the source of controversion about F88. Usually, this river crossing is medium-sized, but when it rains a lot, it can get bigger and problematic. But under normal summer conditions, the crossing is pretty much the same as those on F905 and F910.
F88 – Öskjuleið to Askja from north
What car do I need for F88?
You will definitely need at least a medium-sized 4×4 car. If you want to be 100% sure to make it through Lindaá river crossing, then better go for a large 4×4 or a super jeep with big ground clearance and a snorkel. It’s also better to gain experience with river crossings on different, less challenging, F-roads and then come back to drive this one. All river crossing rules apply strictly here.
F206 is a rough F-road leading to Laki craters. No, you won’t find this road at its full length on Google Maps. You need to look at more local maps.
Is there a river crossing on F206?
Yes, there are unbridged rivers along F206 and one of them is considered a medium-sized river crossing.
F206 to Laki craters in rain and fog
What car do I need for F206?
There are medium-sized river crossings on F206, hence you need preferably at least a medium-sized 4wd car. “Can we do it in a Suzuki Jimny?”, yes you can try and you may succeed, but you may also not. Jimny is considered to be a small-sized SUV, which, when driven in the right way and in good weather may be enough. It may also not be enough if the opposite is the case.
Lakagigavegur is a rough and bumpy loop road leading around Laki craters. The road is completely isolated, and you need to drive F206 to get there.
Is there a river crossing on F207?
Yes, there are unbridged rivers along F207 and one of them is considered at least a medium-sized river crossing. There are videos over the internet of how tourists drown their cars in F207 (luckily without injuries) so take special care, please.
F207 river crossing (road to Laki craters)
What car do I need for F207?
You need preferably at least a medium-sized 4wd car. The road is very bumpy, and moreover, you have to overcome a medium-sized river crossing at F206 if you want to reach F207.
F207 video drive-through
F208 – Fjallabaksleið Nyrðri – north
F208 North has been reclassified to just “208” in recent years, due to road improvements. Still, Google Maps mark it as F208.
F208 is a long F-road that connects the southern ring road next to Vik with the southern end of F26. I call “north” the part north of Landmannalaugar and “south” the part south of Landmannalaugar. With F208 North vs F208 South, it’s a tale of two roads, which are significantly different from each other. Long story short – F208 North is easier to drive. But, this comes with a cost. Views and landscapes around F208 South are one of the most beautiful sights you may see in Iceland.
F208 is also one of the most sought F-roads because it leads to the most popular Icelandic highlands area – Landmannalaugar. Most of the guides would tell you to better take F208 north because it’s easier to drive. I will tell you the opposite – take F208 South because it’s amazing. Or even better – take both the southern and the northern ones and admire them. But, choose a proper car and study river crossing guidelines.
Is there a river crossing on F208 North?
There’s no river crossing on F208 north, not even small ponds.
Horses or “Icelandic ponies” blocking the F208 road Fjallabaksleið Nyrðri north of Landmannalaugar
What car do I need for F208 North?
F208 North is a gravel road with many potholes and your car will probably shake a bit while you drive on it. Nonetheless, there’s nothing else exciting about F208 North.
Due to the road re-classification F208/208 from the north is now doable also by a better 2wd car. That being said, we better recommend taking any 4wd car, even a small-sized SUV, that would be fine for this part of F208 even in worse weather.
F208 is a long F-road that connects the southern ring road next to Vik with the southern end of F26. I call “north” the part north of Landmannalaugar and “south” the part south of Landmannalaugar. With F208 North vs F208 South, it’s a tale of two roads, which are significantly different from each other. Long story short – F208 North is easier to drive. But, this comes with a cost. Views and landscapes around F208 South are one of the most beautiful sights you may see in Iceland.
I particularly chose to drive F208 south, because I’d read that it’s a once-in-a-lifetime experience. And I can only confirm that. On top of that, you can make a detour to Langisjor lake from this part of F208 (and you should do that). Just choose a proper car and study river crossing guidelines.
Is there a river crossing on F208 South?
Yes, there are several river crossings from small to medium-sized ones. River crossings on F208 south were among the 3 biggest river crossings we’d encountered during our Icelandic trip (we chose to do medium-sized river crossings at maximum).
River crossings on F208 South are doable, though. Even if you are not highly experienced in driving through water. At least in the summer. The deepest ones had a depth of around 40-60cm during our trip in August. If you are interested in specific details about each river crossing on F208 South, reach out for our Day 3 journey blog post.
Road F208, or Fjallabaksleið Nyrðri, after crossing with F235 towards Landmannalaugar
What car do I need for F208 South?
You need to have at least a medium-sized 4wd car with decent ground clearance to ford the rivers. We’ve done well with our Dacia Duster. However, I wouldn’t go for a smaller car. See our guide below for more details.
“Can we do it in a Suzuki Jimny?”, yes you can try and you may succeed, but you may also not. Jimny is considered to be a small-sized SUV, which, when driven in the right way and in good weather may be enough. It may also not be enough if the opposite is the case.
Choose your car and insurance wisely when driving F-roads with bigger river crossings. Feel free to read how to choose a proper car or how to pick the best Icelandic car rental insurance. We also collaborate with Icelandic car rental companies to give you a discount and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.
F208 South video drive-through
F210 – Fjallabaksleið syðri
This is one of the most moon-like F-roads in Iceland. F210 spans the area between Thorsmork and Landmannalaugar from the west to the east. F210 is only minimally maintained and very remote as only very few cars decide to take the route.
One of the main reasons travelers take the route is the legendary Maelifell mountain along the road. F210 is subject to Icelandic crazy highlands weather (like a total fog or heavy rain out of the blue). Be prepared for that with sufficient equipment, driving skills, and a proper car.
Fjallabaksleið syðri is pretty long and can be divided into Western and Eastern parts (intersected by F261, Emstruleið, in the middle). More about Fjallabaksleið syðri in our detailed article about F210.
Is there a river crossing on F210?
Yes, there are several river crossings, with many of them being small and medium ones and some of them even bigger ones subject to weather conditions. There’s even a part where you’re gonna be driving virtually IN THE RIVER along the river stream. We wrote in detail about driving F210, Fjallabaksleið syðri, in our article about Fjallabak Highlands.
The biggest threats are the rivers Kaldaklofskvísl in the western part of F210 and the river Holmsá in the eastern part of F210. Kaldaklofskvísl has a bit difficult riverbed and Holmsá can sometimes get pretty nasty in terms of depth. Here’s also a short piece of advice from the local:
“River by Mælifell has a rocky bottom and a small steep bank right after you cross the river from the east and the sand can be wet and there is a risk of getting stuck also people tend to hurry across the river because of the steep bank not knowing that the riverbed has quite a lot of rocks that could cause you problems… “
F210 – Fjallabaksleið syðri west – near Álftavatn lake
What car do I need for F210?
For F210 you’re gonna need at least a medium-sized 4wd car, preferably a super-jeep with snorkel and good driving skills. Better practice with less difficult F-roads first and then go for F210.
And definitely choose your car wisely when driving F-roads with bigger river crossings. Feel free to read how to choose a proper car or how to pick the best Icelandic car rental insurance. We also collaborate with Icelandic car rental companies to give you a discount and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.
F210 video drive-through
F223 – Eldgjárvegur
F223 is a short F-road that connects southern F208 with the Eldgjá hiking area. It is one of the easiest F-roads in Iceland and leads through a canyon surrounded by lush green hills.
Is there a river crossing on F223?
No, there’s no river crossing on Eldgjárvegur. There are, however, river crossings on the only connecting road F208 and in both directions – to the south (one) and to the north (several).
What car do I need for F223?
There’s no need for any special car for F223, but bear in mind that to reach it, you need to drive via F208 South. This means you need at least a medium-sized 4×4 car to get to F223.
F224 is a very bumpy road with some epic potholes. You will also meet MANY fellow travelers at F224 because everybody wants to see Landmannalaugar 🙂
Is there a river crossing on F224?
Yes, there are 2 non-trivial, medium-sizedriver crossings at the end of F224, right next to the Brennisteinsalda campsite. That’s why many visitors opt for leaving their cars at the parking lot just before the river crossings. This is not very convenient though, because you have to walk the distance from the car to the campsite (around 10 minutes) each time you need something from your car (and this will happen often, trust me). Also, in case you have a rooftop tent, you will not want to camp that far from the campsite facilities.
If you don’t want to do the final 2 river crossings, basically any small 4wd car will serve you well. Just drive slowly.
In case you want to park directly at Brennisteinsalda campsite, i.e. cross the rivers, you will need a medium-sized 4wd SUV. We’ve seen multiple travelers successfully crossing even with small 4wd cars, but they were struggling a bit and didn’t look very sure about their crossing. It’s already an adventure crossing with a medium-sized SUV so to save you some nerves better go for a bigger car.
F225 is a shortcut from Road 26 in the west to Landmannalaugar in the east. Well, at least it’s supposed to be a shortcut 🙂 It’s 20km shorter than driving north via F26 and F208, but for someone, it may be more difficult to drive. It’s definitely a much nicer drive compared to F208/208 from the north, however.
Is there a river crossing on F225?
Yes, there are some small river crossings on F225, Landmannaleið. Under normal weather conditions and if the road is of course open, they should be doable with any 4wd car. That being said, you still have to adhere to river crossing guidelines and better have some experience with river crossings already. That’s why many travelers avoid this shortcut and go for the rather boring F208/208 North. If you want to start trying river crossings, though, we recommend starting with Landmannaleid 🙂
F225 Landmannaleið in rain
What car do I need for F225?
A medium-sized 4wd SUV should be sufficient for F225. Maybe even a small SUV, according to weather and road conditions.
“Sandy road with two clear water rivers to cross. One of the crossings is in a curve of the river, so can be quite deep. Veiðivotn (fish lakes) is mostly visited by fishermen It is a beautiful area with lots of colorful crater lakes. A great area to do shorter hikes.”
F228 video drive-through
F229 – Jökulheimaleið
F229 Jökulheimaleið
F229 leads to the Jökulheimar area, just west of the Tungnaájökul glacier. There are many connecting tracks to F229 (dirt tracks, not F-roads), which are much more dangerous than F229. In our opinion, this road is not particularly interesting. The more interesting are the neighboring tracks, but they are much more dangerous.
Is there a river crossing on F229?
According to scarce sources, there are no river crossings on the road.
What car do I need for F229?
There are some parts with sand and rough, unmaintained terrain, plus it’s an F-road, so definitely at least a small 4wd car. Other than that, the road should not be dangerous, it’s just remote and not often driven.
F232, or Öldufell, or Öldufellsleið is the legendary road depicted in all of these pictures where you see a car driving virtually over the waterfall. This waterfall is called Bláfjallafoss (after Bláfjallakvisl river). F232 is a beautiful road connecting F210 in the north almost with a ring road in the south. On a nice day, views over Öldufellsjökull glacier (the eastern part of Mýrdalsjökull) are amazing.
F232 Bláfjallafoss waterfall
Is there a river crossing on F232?
Yes, there is one medium-sized river crossing – the famous one over the waterfall. This ford is a bit bumpy but very scenic, especially when shot from the drone perspective. Other than this one river crossing there are only small puddles not worth mentioning.
What car do I need for F232?
A medium-sized 4wd SUV should do the job in good weather conditions. Don’t forget to consider also connecting roads (F210 requires a big 4×4 car but F233 is even more challenging and a super jeep is recommended).
F233 is a shortcut from F210 to the northern part of “F208 south” road. Travelers who want to see Maelifell first and then continue towards Landmannalaugar usually look at this road. Beware though! F233 has one pretty difficult river crossing. This means that you either better avoid this road, or be very well prepared and gain enough experience with river crossings elsewhere first.
Is there a river crossing on F233?
Yes, there are several river crossings with one of them, Syðri-Ófæra river, easily being classified as a big river crossing. F233 opens every year among the last F-roads and that happens for a reason. Sydri Ofaera river with some powerful streams crosses the road and the snow usually holds longer in this area, which means Álftavatnskrókur is passable only for a limited time of a year.
Correct river crossing of Sydri Ofaera river on F233 (click to enlarge).
What car do I need for F233?
With some luck, you may be able to pass with a medium-sized 4wd SUV. In case you don’t want to rely on luck, better go for a super-jeep option. Even with super-jeep, it’s very important to not do something stupid and strictly adhere to river crossing guidelines. Check the road conditions beforehand. Cross the main Sydri Ofaera river as depicted above. Don’t go straight! There are big boulders in the way.
Choose your car and insurance wisely when driving F-roads with bigger river crossings. Feel free to read how to choose a proper car or how to pick the best Icelandic car rental insurance. We also collaborate with Icelandic car rental companies to give you a discount and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.
F233 video drive-through
F235 – Langisjór
F235 is a one-way detour from F208 south towards out-of-this-world Langisjor lake and Sveinstindur mountain. I highly recommend you take F235 if you want to gain experience in driving Icelandic F-roads and enjoy the moon-like landscapes. It’s once in a lifetime experience.
Is there a river crossing on F235?
Yes, there are several river crossings. None of them was dangerous at the time of our journey, though. They are mostly small to medium-sized river crossings doable even if you are not highly experienced. You still have to adhere to river crossing rules of course.
Surreal landscapes on road F235 towards Langisjór lake
What car do I need for F235?
You should do well with any 4wd SUV. The medium-sized 4wd car would be the safest, though, as some of the rivers may gain volume when it rains a lot. More importantly, to reach F235, you will have to cross several medium-sized rivers on F208 and for that, you definitely need a medium-sized 4wd SUV.
F249 is probably the most notoriously known for tourists getting their rental cars drowned here. Except for that, it’s a beautiful moon-like road and one of the only 2 roads that will get you to Thorsmork, which is a beautiful mountainous area. We wrote a detailed guide on getting to Thórsmörk.
The road is better to be avoided if you don’t have all it takes – a proper car, enough experience, and perfect knowledge of river crossing rules. If you don’t gave a big car and enough experience, we suggest taking a guided tour to Thórsmörk.
Is there a river crossing on F249?
Sure, there are many river crossings on F249. They start as small ponds, soon evolve into small rivers, then medium-sized rivers, and end with big ones. The final river crossing (Krossá river) is probably the biggest river crossing you may encounter on marked F-roads in Iceland.
We drove to Thorsmork in a smaller super jeep. This is what I suggest to everyone to stay safe. We also drove only up to the Krossá river – you don’t want to cross this one, trust me. Read more details about our trip to Thorsmork here.
A spectacular view from the top of Valahnjukur
What car do I need for F249?
Without any doubt, you’re gonna need a super-jeep. And the bigger the better. The last river crossing is one of the most treacherous and challenging moments you will encounter on Icelandic roads. Even with a super-jeep, it’s not guaranteed you’re gonna pass. You have to ford a river precisely in the way it needs to be forded, to not drown your car.
Choose your car and insurance wisely when driving F-roads with bigger river crossings. Feel free to read how to choose a proper car or how to pick the best Icelandic car rental insurance. We also collaborate with Icelandic car rental companies to give you a discount and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.
F249 video drive-through
F261 – Emstruleið
F261 leads along the northern side of Thorsmork valley and connects it with the eastern part of F210.
Is there a river crossing on F261?
Yes, there is one main river crossing, through the Bláfjallakvisl river. It’s considered at least a medium-sized river crossing and can become a bigger one when it rains a lot. There are no other notable river crossings. We crossed Blafjallakvisl on F261 several times in August in dry weather. The crossing was OK at that time and generally should be easier than Kaldaklofskvisl on F210. We wrote in detail about our F261 driving experience here.
F261 Emstruleið
What car do I need for F261?
A medium-sized 4wd SUV should do the job in good (dry) weather conditions. Don’t forget to consider also connecting roads (F210 should be similar but F233 is one of the most challenging F-roads in Iceland when it comes to river crossings). A large 4wd SUV always makes it safer to drive F261, however.
“The track starts next to Geysir thermal area. It first goes through an Icelandic wood, then through fields of lupines, and ends at the F338. There is one small river crossing, but it shouldn’t be a problem.”
Another: “F333 is an unpaved and rough road. It doesn’t have any unbridged rivers, but the section beginning from the F338 route is very bumpy, filled with potholes and big rocks on the road. After that section, the F333 becomes a forest road, which is a pretty unusual experience in Iceland due to the lack of trees. 🙂 “
F333 video drive-through
F335 – Hagavatnsvegur
F335 advice from the local
“Track that goes to the glacier lake Hagavatn. The first part is easy, with only one tiny stream to cross. Nice views at Lake Sandvatn. Near the end is a small cabin from Ferðafélag Íslands. In 2015, staying there for one night cost ISK 4000. Very short bunk beds, and no drinking water near the cabin. After the cabin, the track continues for another kilometer to Hagavatn. But you have to cross a glacial river, about 4m wide. At the end of the road lake, Hagavatn overflows into a river with a 30-meter (my guess) high waterfall named Leynifoss. According to a message in the cabins gestabók (guest book), it should be possible to hike from there to the nearby glacier, but I haven’t tried that.”
“Starting from F338, going south, you first get a decent track around Mount Hlödufell. There are actually tracks on both sides of the mountain, I took the right branch. The area is flat but scattered with huge boulders which probably fell from the mountain. There is a cabin on the south side of the mountain, often used by horse groups. One km after the cabin there is an unnumbered sidetrack on your right, that goes to Thingvellir. I think its name is Eyvindarleið…
…The F337 continues in sand and lava to a mountain range. Just before reaching it, there is a sign pointing back to the north to an unnumbered track that goes around this mountain range. Close nearby the river Brúará runs in a small but pretty canyon Bruarárskörð, worth a visit. The same river later forms a few km downstream of the Brúarfoss waterfall. After the mentioned sign, the road goes steeply up the mountain. The track is mostly fair, but there is one section where it crosses a dry riverbed with big round stones for a few hundred meters. At the top of the mountain, you have a great view of Lake Apavatn (weather permitting, I only saw mist and rain), before descending on a steep and curvy road. There are no rivers to cross on F337.”
F338 – Skjaldbreiðarvegur
F338 advice from the local
One: “This is a Linuvegir, a track along powerlines. It runs on the slopes of the shield volcano Skjaldbreiður. Starting from the west the track first crosses a small stream. The track is mostly fine with only a few sandy stretches. But it runs in a lava field, with lots of short curves and bends. And several stretches where you drive under the powerlines. Nice views of the Thórisjökull and Langjökull glaciers. A few km before the track ends near Gullfoss, there is a river crossing. I don’t know how difficult this one is (I took the turn to F333), but you cross the same river on a bridge near Geysir, and it looks doable there.”
F338 Skjaldbreidarvegur
Another: “The river crossings on this road are very wide (3:55) and rather wide (7:00) (the only optimal place for a crossing is where the river turns wide and hopefully shallow). One needs to plan the crossing correctly because one is able to find submerged and surfaced boulders to place the car on top of, and also deep vistas within the crossing. This crossing changes every single year so any route or tracks may lead one astray and the route shown in the video is *not* to be taken for granted.”
F338 video drive-through
F347 – Kerlingafjallavegur
F347 is the only road leading directly to the picturesque Kerlingarfjoll area. It’s a detour from F35 and it’s definitely worth taking. In terms of difficulty, I would divide F347 into two parts – up to a Kerlingarfjoll mountain resort and afterward, towards Hveradalir.
Up to the Kerlingarfjoll mountain resort, F347 is just a gravel road with potholes doable even by a 2wd car. To Hveradalir, however, it becomes more challenging. This time the challenge exceptionally doesn’t lie in river crossings (as there are no unbridged ones) but in the steepness and rugged terrain of the final section.
Is there a river crossing on F347?
Contrary to the wrong statements of some other guides – there is NO unbridged river crossing on F347. This means you may get to Kerlingarfjoll without fording any river.
F347 road next to Hveradalir hot spring area in Kerlingarfjoll
What car do I need for F347?
For the part up to Kerlingarfjoll mountain resort, any 4wd car would be sufficient. For the final part leading to Hveradalir, I recommend at least a medium-sized SUV with enough ground clearance. Dacia Duster is a minimum. We’ve done it in it and it was a bit scary.
“Can we do it in a Suzuki Jimny?”, yes you can try and you may succeed, but you may also not. Jimny is considered to be a small-sized SUV, which, when driven in the right way and in good weather may be enough. It may also not be enough if the opposite is the case.
Not sure what type of car to choose? Feel free to read how to choose a proper car or how to pick the best Icelandic car rental insurance. We also collaborate with Icelandic car rental companies to give you a discount and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.
F347 video drive-through
F349 – Kerlingarfjöll old
F349 – old Kerlingarfjöll track
F349 is an old, remote, and really long F-road serving as an alternative road to Kerlingarfjöll. F349 is not well-known, nor often driven. You will hardly meet here anyone, which is also both the biggest danger and biggest beauty of the road – its remoteness. Rough highlands and wild landscapes will be surrounding you on every kilometer of this track.
Is there a river crossing on F349?
According to very scarce resources, there are some small to medium-sized river crossings on F349. Rivers are not the main obstacle on this road.
What car do I need for F349?
As already mentioned, the main danger of this road are not river crossings, but rather its remoteness and some really rough sections. This means narrow roads and steep ascents and descents. It’s safer and easier to drive the road from south to north, not the opposite, because this way the steepest parts will be descents and not ascents.
Theoretically, under good weather conditions, a medium 4wd SUV should be able to drive through F349. However, bear in mind the road is really remote, with steep and rough sections. To be on the safe side I would definitely recommend at least a large 4×4 car and ideally a super jeep.
F508 – Skorradalsvegur
F508 advice from the local
“I’ve driven F508 Skorradalsvegur in a 4×4 truck. It’s bumpy and rocky. There is only one really steep hill to climb if one drives east (descend if one drives west). No rivers to cross that I can recall, but as mentioned – this follows the power lines like F338, not so much “under” the lines but they’re always nearby. Very little to see apart from one small waterfall next to the steep section mentioned – a second one isn’t far away but to see it one needs to hike to it. Both are pictured here and are about 12-14 meters high each (39-46 ft): https://gonguleidir.is/listing/eiriksfell-i-skorradal/ Those who visit these waterfalls tend to drive back out of Skorradalur rather than heading onwards.”
Not sure what type of car to choose? Feel free to read how to choose a proper car or how to pick the best Icelandic car rental insurance. We also collaborate with Icelandic car rental companies to give you a discount and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.
F570 – Jökulshálsvegur
F570 has been reclassified to just “570” in recent years, due to road improvements. Still, Google Maps mark it as F570.
F570 is an old mountain road connecting Ólafsvik with Arnastapi. The road is steep and narrow at several spots, but beautiful! It is also the closest road to Snæfellsjökull glacier. Super jeep tours use it for reaching the glacier and also for bringing the snowmobiles up towards the glacier.
We drove Road 570 in mid-July just 2 hours after the official opening. There was still a lot of snow around the road and we even had to pass several 3-meters (10-feet) high snow tunnels! We loved the drive and it was a once-in-a-lifetime experience.
Is there a river crossing on F570?
There are no river crossings on F570 – Jökulshálsvegur. There may be snow, though. Especially earlier in the season (May, June, July).
Road 570 Snæfellsness near Snæfellsjökull
What car do I need for F570?
Although technically a 2wd car is allowed in good conditions, we definitely do recommend driving Jökulshálsvegur with a 4×4 car. The road gets steep from time to time and you may get stuck with a small car. A small 4wd car is a must and should be enough under good weather conditions. We would better take there at least a medium-sized 4×4, though, as we mentioned above, because snow may often be present on the road.
Not sure what type of car to choose? Feel free to read how to choose a proper car or how to pick the best Icelandic car rental insurance. We also collaborate with Icelandic car rental companies to give you a discount and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.
F570 video drive-through
F575 – Eysteinsdalsleið
F575, Eysteinsdalsleið
F575 is the only F-road that has remained in place in Snæfellsnes. It connects the western part of Road 547 (near Saxhóll crater) to the middle part of Road 570 (former F570). In some spots, it is steep, narrow, and with rough terrain and rocks. Nevertheless, F575 is definitely one of the easier F-roads.
We drove F575 on a sunny day in mid-July and it was a magnificent drive. Views on a nice day are picturesque and the road on a such day is a quick and quite easy drive.
Is there a river crossing on F575?
There’s no river crossing on F575 – Eysteinsdalsleið. The road is just steep, and rough, and there may be snow early in the season (anytime before August).
F575 Eysteinsdalsleið, Snæfellsnes in mid-July
What car do I need for F575?
F575 is a bit rougher and steeper than F570. You should drive the road with a 4×4 car or ideally in a larger 4×4 vehicle. However, under good weather conditions and when the snow is already melted it’s more or less an easy 4wd drive.
Not sure what type of car to choose? Feel free to read how to choose a proper car or how to pick the best Icelandic car rental insurance. We also collaborate with Icelandic car rental companies to give you a discount and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.
F575 video drive-through
F578 – Arnarvatnsvegur
F578 advice from the local
One: “Starting in Húsafell the first part is a bumpy ride in an old lava field. After about 6 km there are signs of two lava caves, Súrtshellir and Íshellir. The track continues bumpy and bendy, but with a good view of Langjökull and EiríksJökull, until the river Nórðingafljót. This is a clear-water river but can be a major obstacle. Wide, fast streaming, and big rocks on the river bed. Not an easy crossing…
…The F578 continues as a fair track to a mountain cabin Alftakrókurskáli and onwards. After a (signposted) turn to the left, the track goes along Arnarvatn stóra and to the fishing lodges at the north side. The Landscape is mostly lakes and small hills covered with stones. From Arnarvatn the road is going north as a straight black line in flat green moorland back to inhabited areas. But the “F” is then already dropped from the road number. There are quite a few unnumbered tracks in the area, and I was surprised to see how well signposted and marked they were, like this one, south of Arnarvatn.”
Another: “F578 from the south is quite rough. So rough that anglers going to the lodges generally drive the RR1 to the north and then take the F578 from there. I have twice had to help wrecked vehicles out of the river (Norðlingafljót). It’s a road I wouldn’t do except on a good truck.”
F586 – Haukadalsskarðsvegur
F586 advice from the local
“A normal track going over a hill. Steep on both sides. On the east side, you have to cross the same river two or three times, but this shouldn’t be a problem. More upstream the river runs in a nice but not too impressive canyon. Near the top of the hill, the river is dammed, creating a small reservoir. On the west side of the hill, you only have to cross one small river. There is an impressive rock face near the end of F586. The biggest attraction of Haukadalur is Eiriksstaðir, a replica of a Viking house, where a guy in a Viking costume will show you around.”
Not sure what type of car to choose? Feel free to read how to choose a proper car or how to pick the best Icelandic car rental insurance. We also collaborate with Icelandic car rental companies to give you a discount and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.
F586 video drive-through
F649 – Ófeigsfjarðarvegur
F649 Ófeigsfjarðarvegur Iceland
F649 advice from the local
“649 starts at Strandavegur (643) and goes over a mountain towards a fjord named Ingólfsfjörður. After descending the mountain, the road passes through Eyri, a small village that has a huge deserted herring factory and some houses used as summer homes. It’s after the factory when 649 becomes F649 and the road conditions get much more rougher and bumpier. Driving along the coastline we passed through a farm and eventually arrived next to the Húsá river. It’s worth mentioning that it is possible to ford Húsá river and carry on for a few more km and end up at Hvalárfoss waterfall, which marks the end of F649. But since we had problems with our car’s 4WD system, I decided not to risk it this time with the river crossing. So, we just turned around and drove all the way back to Strandavegur.
I’d say F649 is a very special road since it’s so isolated and far away from everything. As mentioned earlier, it creates a feeling that you are driving towards some kind of an end. And in a way, you also experience a sense of ending when you pass the abandoned factory, which has been like that since 1952. That being said, there was actually surprisingly much traffic on that day. :)”
F649 video drive-through
F734 – Svörtutungur / old Kjölur
F734 Iceland
F734 is a dangerous alternative to normal Kjölur (road 35). An area around F734 is completely uninhabited and the road is a very scarcely driven one. That means rough and unmaintained.
Is there a river crossing on F734?
There are two big river crossings – the rivers of Svartakvisl and Blandá. We are talking about 80cm and more in terms of the depth of the ford. Can be easily more than 1 meter. On top of that – strong current and big rocks. Don’t go alone! And very carefully check the conditions!
Not sure what type of car to choose? Feel free to read how to choose a proper car or how to pick the best Icelandic car rental insurance. We also collaborate with Icelandic car rental companies to give you a discount and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.
F735 – Þjófadalavegur
F735 advice from the local
“This is the road to Hveravellir, which is a must-go when you travel the Kjölur route. The track continues to the cabin at þjófadalir. I did this track but returned halfway because the scenery was not interesting enough. There is a track going up the mountain on the right (Oddnýjarhnúkur) which may give a good view of the Langjökull glacier which is behind it. No streams to cross on this track.”
F752 – Skagafjarðarleið
F752 advice from the local
“One of the three roads from the north to the Sprengisandur. And IMO the second most interesting after the F881 (from Akureyri) but before the F26. It has one major obstacle, near Laugafell you have to cross a big glacial river, the Hnjúkskvísl. There are also several freshwater rivers to cross, but these should be minor problems. Not many highlights on this road. Of course, Laugafell has an excellent thermal pool. The east part of F752 is rather desolate but sometimes has a good view of the Hofsjökull glacier. After a steep descent with sharp curves, you are in a green river valley between mountains, where it continues as road 752.”
F752 Skagafjardarleid south of Laugafell
Another: “As usual, it’s a lonely unpaved road, offering beautiful views and lunar landscapes. It also has some streams and two pretty wide unbridged rivers, that need fording. They weren’t too deep when were crossing them, but they can be depending on the weather conditions.”
Not sure what type of car to choose? Feel free to read how to choose a proper car or how to pick the best Icelandic car rental insurance. We also collaborate with Icelandic car rental companies to give you a discount and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.
F752 video drive-through
F821 – Eyjafjarðarleið
F821 is another spectacular Icelandic F-road located in the north of Iceland. It starts from Hólsgerði farm and heads south until it reaches Laugafell mountain hut. It’s pretty rough, having big potholes and rocks on the road.
Is there a river crossing on F821?
Yes, there are some small river crossings on F821, Eyjafjarðarleið. No serious or big river crossing, though.
What car do I need for F821?
F821 is theoretically passable by any 4wd car. We were more than happy, however, to have our big Land Cruiser with enough ground clearance and enough horsepower in case of the car got stuck or in case of meeting another car.
Rivers are not a big issue with Eyjafjarðarleið, the steep terrain is, however. There were some scary spots where a bigger car with high-enough undercarriage came in very handy. I would recommend renting a Land Cruiser-like vehicle for peace of mind.
Choose your car wisely when driving steep and rough F-roads. Feel free to read how to choose a proper car or how to pick the best Icelandic car rental insurance. We also collaborate with Icelandic car rental companies to give you a discount and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.
F821 Eyjafjardarleid
F821 advice from the local
“It doesn’t have any huge unbridged rivers, just a couple of streams. F821 runs through a valley and then climbs from sea level up to 926 meters (3037 ft). The twisty and narrow section climbing up was very exciting and memorable. The trail ends with Laugafell mountain hut, which has a natural geothermal hot spring.
We took this road on the 5th of September 2020 and a day before that there had been an unexpected spontaneous snowstorm in that area, especially more in the center part of Iceland. Luckily, the following day was clear and warm and the sun had been melting a lot of snow by the time we got there. That’s the reason why the trail was quite wet in the beginning and after the elevation, there was quite a bit of snow still on the road. A good example of how Icelandic weather can be unpredictable and change the conditions very quickly.”
F821 video drive-through
F839 – Leirdalsheiðarvegur
F839, in Icelandic Leirdalsheiðarvegur, is one of the two roads in the Northern Highlands leading to the sea, next to Flatey island and close to Akureyri’s fjord – Eyjafjörður. It’s a beautiful valley drive with sea views in the distance. We wrote in detail about driving F839 (Leirdalsheiðarvegur) in our article.
Is there a river crossing on F839?
Yes, there are some small to medium-sized river crossings on F839, Leirdalsheiðarvegur. No serious or big river crossing, though.
What car do I need for F839?
We recommend taking at least a medium-sized 4wd/SUV. There are river crossings on the road that require some ground clearance. If weather conditions are really good, also a small 4wd car should be sufficient. To be sure, we would use a bigger one though. We drove the road in Land Cruiser.
Not sure what type of car to choose? Feel free to read how to choose a proper car or how to pick the best Icelandic car rental insurance. We also collaborate with Icelandic car rental companies to give you a discount and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.
F839 – Leirdalsheiðarvegur
F839 advice from the local
“F839 is interesting… It often doesn’t open until late July or early August. It’s only about a 45-minute drive to the sea where you have an exceptional view and a legal but extremely primitive camping site. Great fishing at the mouth of the lake for a reasonable fee (ISK 6000). This road can be done in any reasonable SUV with +20cm clearance loaded.”
Another: “F839 is a bit shorter than F899, being 27 km (16,7 miles) long (while the F899 is 34 km / 21 miles long). It has a few unbridged rivers (or streams) that need crossing, but for me, the highlight of F839 is in the middle where there is a steep descent following a tight bridge and then ascent back up. Maybe it’s also worth mentioning that near the end of the road, we encountered some trail damage, and driving through that small section needed more caution. We did this trail at the end of September, so we were rewarded with beautiful autumn-coloured scenery. “
F839 video drive-through
F843 – Dyngjufjöll
F843 – Dyngjufjöll
F843 is a totally deserted, rough, and unmaintained F-road. You won’t even find it on many maps. F843 leads west of the Dyngjufjöll mountains, hence its name. F843 is an old road connecting the Mývatn area in the north with the Askja area and with F910 in the central highlands of Iceland. The terrain is rocky and full of lava formations. The main challenge of F843 is the rough terrain and some steep sections, but mostly its remoteness.
Is there a river crossing on F843?
According to very scarce resources, there are some small to medium-sized river crossings. Rivers are not the main obstacle on this road.
What car do I need for F843?
You need a high ground clearance for crossing the lava field after Botni (thanks Volker Jungmann for pointing that out). Also, bear in mind the road connects to the central F910 which is even harder to drive on. For central F910 you definitely need a large 4×4 car and ideally a super jeep. Anything else is theoretically possible, but simply irresponsible and you may end up getting yourself stuck or injured.
We collaborate with Icelandic car rental companies to give you a discount and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.
F881 – Dragaleið
F881 is a road in the Icelandic Highlands connecting F26 and F821, located in the very heart of Iceland. It’s 18 km / 11 miles long and driving it offers a true sense of wilderness. At times it almost really feels as if you are on another planet.
Is there a river crossing on F881?
There is no river crossing on F881, Dragaleið. It’s just a rough and remote road.
What car do I need for F881?
While F881 itself is not difficult to drive and would require basically any 4wd car, don’t forget about connecting roads! All three of them – F752, F821, and F26 are much more difficult to drive, so you should choose your car according to where you will be driving next.
F894 is a climax of all moon-like roads leading to the amazing Askja area. It is the final section (after F905 and F910) which ends closest to the famous Viti crater. F894 is a very rough unpaved road that will shake the hell out of you but otherwise isn’t dangerous at all.
There is no river crossing on F894. There are 2 medium-sized ones on the F910 preceding it, though, and several bigger ones also on the alternative route of the F88.
Vikraborgir car park, the closest point available on your route towards Askja/Víti crater
What car do I need for F894?
You need an SUV with sufficient ground clearance because the road is very bumpy with many big boulders being part of the terrain. By sufficient I mean at least that of a medium-sized SUV like the Dacia Duster. Alternatively, you may just drive very slowly to take care and not damage the undercarriage of your car.
Don’t forget to consider connecting roads. There are 2 medium-sized river crossings on F910 and even bigger river crossings on F88. Plan for that carefully.
Not sure what type of car to choose? Feel free to read how to choose a proper car or how to pick the best Icelandic car rental insurance. We also collaborate with Icelandic car rental companies to give you a discount and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.
F894 video drive-through
F899 – Flateyjardalsvegur
F899 or Flateyjardalsvegur, is one of the two roads in the Northern Highlands leading to the sea, next to Flatey island and close to Akureyri’s fjord – Eyjafjörður. It’s a beautiful valley drive with sea views in the distance. We wrote in detail about driving F899 (Flateyjardalsvegur) in our article.
Is there a river crossing on F899?
Yes, you have to cross several unbridged streams of small to medium sizes. There’s also one bigger river towards the end of the road, near the sea, that can be considered at a minimum a medium-sized river crossing. It can sometimes get bigger when it rains a lot.
What car do I need for F899?
We recommend taking a large 4wd/SUV, like Land Cruiser. There are river crossings on the road that require some ground clearance, especially the last one. If weather conditions are really good, also a medium-sized 4wd car should be sufficient. To be sure, we would use a bigger one though. We drove the road in Land Cruiser.
Not sure what type of car to choose? Feel free to read how to choose a proper car or how to pick the best Icelandic car rental insurance. We also collaborate with Icelandic car rental companies to give you a discount and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.
F899 Flateyjardalsvegur
F899 advice from the local
“You would say this track would be comparable with F839. But there is no steep climb in the beginning, and no summer houses, and it looked more deserted. But like F839 it is a river valley between beautiful mountains. Along the track were several signs pointing to deserted or disappeared farms. Halfway through the track is a mountain cabin, and near the end, another was under construction. Near the beach, there was a toilet house. There are numerous rivers to cross, but I don’t remember any that would be a problem with a decent SUV.”
Another: “F899 isn’t as rugged as some other F-roads, however, it still has numerous streams and unbridged rivers that need to be crossed, even though none of the rivers were super deep when we did this trip. Nature was very beautiful and green, offering stunning views. At the end of the trail, there is a sandy beach section that might be problematic for some vehicles. A small island, called Flatey, is also seen from the end of the trail. There is also a campsite (just before the sandy part) that has a flush toilet and running fresh water.”
F899 video drive-through
F902 – Kverkfjallaleið
F902 advice from the local
“Did this with a tour group, and only remember that the track was quite sandy. Kverkfjöll is an impressive hot spring area on top of the glacier. But very difficult to reach, because it requires a few hundred meters of steep climbing on the glacier. A hike from the cabin at the foot of the glacier to the spring area and back will take a full day. There are guided tours that start at the cabin.”
F902 video drive-through
F903 – Hvannalindavegur
F903 Hvannalindavegur Iceland
No, you won’t find this road at its full length on Google Maps. You need to look at more local maps.
F903 advice from the local
“Compared to some other Icelandic Highland roads, F903 is pretty sandy. I personally loved the rocky section of the trail, which is just before the first river crossing. F903 has two unbridged river crossings, both over the Lindaá river. In the middle of the trail after the second river crossing is a small oasis, called Hvannalindir.”
F903 video drive-through
F905 – Arnardalsleið
F905 is the first in the series of F-roads leading to the amazing Askja area. Compared to the main alternative – F88 – the road F905 (and F910) to Askja is longer, more versatile and I would say more beautiful. F905 stretches through the most beautiful and out-of-this-world Icelandic landscapes and I more than just recommend you take it. It’s once in a lifetime experience. The terrain is rough (see more below), but it’s worth the drive.
Gravel, clay, rocks, sand, sulfur – anything you can imagine, all of this surrounded by unforgettable views of the volcanic hills around. This is F905.
Should you take F88 from the north or F905 from the east to reach Askja? Long story short, If you are a river crossing beginner and if you want to take the more scenic route, then F905 is a better choice. On the other hand, if you are well experienced in Icelandic river crossings, then F88 will be quicker and with easier terrain.
You need a proper car for both alternatives, though. We wrote in detail here about our Askja experience with driving on the moon-like F-roads leading to Askja.
Is there a river crossing on F905?
There are no major river crossings on F905, only ponds, and small rivers. There are 2 significant medium-sized river crossings on the following F910, though. Follow the river crossing principles to succeed.
F905 coming from Möðrudalsleið, towards Askja
What car do I need for F905?
Specifically for F905, you would be fine with any 4wd car. BUT, don’t forget about the connecting roads, especially F910. As I mentioned, it contains medium-sized river crossings which require you to drive at least a medium-sized SUV to be more sure to cross.
F905 is a versatile F-road with all kinds of terrain you can imagine. It’s also bumpy and possesses many potholes so take care when driving it.
Not sure what type of car to choose? Feel free to read how to choose a proper car or how to pick the best Icelandic car rental insurance. We also collaborate with Icelandic car rental companies to give you a discount and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.
F905 video drive-through
F907
F907 has been reclassified to just “907” in recent years, due to road improvements. Still, Google Maps mark it as F907.
We drove only a short section of F907 from the crossroads with Austurleid in the west to Jokuldalsvegur in the south. This section had only some small ponds to cross. I’ll write a detailed guide once I drive the entire F907.
What car do I need for F907?
For the short section we drove, any 4wd car would be sufficient. Bear in mind though, you’re gonna be probably continuing on the more difficult roads like F910 where medium-sized river crossings are present. For those, you need a medium-sized SUV.
F909 – Snæfellsleið
F909 advice from the local
“Coming from the north you first get three smaller glacial rivers. Before you get to the mountain cabin, there is another, much wider one. The road itself was easy to ride, at least on my bike. From the cabin, I did a day hike following the valley west and later south of Mount Snæfell and was rewarded with a great view of the valley east of the mountain. Another popular hike is to go to the top of Snæfell. You can ask the warden at the cabin for directions. After the cabin, the road continues as a bumpy track to the Brúarjökull glacier. At that point, the glacier is not very steep, and you can easily set some foot on it.”
F909 video drive-through
F910 – Austurleið – east
F910 is the road you cannot avoid when visiting Askja. F910 connects both F905 and F88 with the main Askja area. It’s a breathtaking F-road with magnificent landscapes along the road. Driving on F910 is an integral part of the entire Askja adventure.
One important fact – 99% of visitors drive only a small part of Austurleið – the part leading to Askja. However, F910 also continues a long way through central highlands all the way to F26 and Nyidalur in the west:
F910 Austurleið full length
This is a very deserted part of Iceland, we cover it below as F910 – Dyngjufjallaleið – west. In this paragraph, we cover only the part of the F910 leading to Askja from the east.
So – if heading to Askja – be prepared for your Askja venture responsibly. It’s neither an easy drive nor the short one. Bring enough food and water, tank enough fuel, and plan your journey in advance. Study guidelines for driving F-roads and crossing rivers carefully.
F910 towards Askja
Is there a river crossing on F910?
Yes, there are 2 major medium-sized river crossings on F910. They are manageable, just check the weather and road conditions thoroughly before departure and follow precautionary safety guidelines on the Icelandic Safe Travel website.
There are medium-sized river crossings on F910, hence you need preferably at least a medium-sized 4wd car. “Can we do it in a Suzuki Jimny?”, yes you can try and you may succeed, but you may also not. Jimny is considered to be a small-sized SUV, which, when driven in the right way and in good weather may be enough. It may also not be enough if the opposite is the case.
If you want to be sure, better opt for a larger car. Not sure what type of car to choose? Feel free to read how to choose a proper car or how to pick the best Icelandic car rental insurance. We also collaborate with Icelandic car rental companies to give you a discount and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.
F910 video drive-through
F910 – Dyngjufjallaleið – west
Map of F910 west – Dyngjufjallaleið – leading from Nyidalur to Dreki
Fascinating, remote, moon-like F-road. That’s F910 between Nyidalur and Askja. A typical Icelandic visitor will never drive this road, nor hear about this road, central F910 is simply too far off. Everybody knows about F910 East leading to Askja only.
Remoteness is the main reason why someone decides to take the road, but also the main danger. The terrain of Dyngjufjallaleið is very rough and any help is very far away. Prepare well and choose your car wisely, or don’t drive this road.
Is there a river crossing on F910 West?
Yes, there are several medium river crossings on central F910 connecting Dreki (Askja) and Nyidalur (F26). The biggest river crossing is located about 30 minutes of drive from Nyidalur and can be considered a medium-to-big river crossing. You need to come equipped with a large enough car, with some river crossing experience, and ideally after a dry period.
A drive through F910 from Nyidalur to Askja
You can read about our river crossing experience of central F910 in our article about Central Highlands (upcoming). For a video of all river crossings, see below. Just a word of caution, the video was shot at the end of July, over a very dry period.
What car do I need for F910 West?
You need a big 4×4 car, such as Land Cruiser, at minimum. We, however, better recommend driving a super jeep with high ground clearance.
Beware, there are medium-to-big river crossings, very rough terrain requiring high ground clearance (Land Cruiser minimum), and any help will be very far away in each direction. Don’t risk it with a smaller car, you may end up crying alone being stuck in the center of Iceland.
Not sure what type of car to choose? Feel free to read how to choose a proper car or how to pick the best Icelandic car rental insurance. We also collaborate with Icelandic car rental companies to give you a discount and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.
F910 West video drive-through
F923 – Jökuldalsvegur
F923 Jokuldalsvegur Iceland
No, you won’t find this road at its full length on Google Maps. You need to look at more local maps.
F923 advice from the local
“It turns into an F-road after the last farm and straight away there is quite a wide unbridged river that needs to be forded in order to carry on. There is a second river crossing also, but that one is located a little bit before the end of the road. Eventually, F923 ends with merging into road 910. We did this trip at the end of September and some parts of the road were already covered by quite a bit of snow.”
F923 video drive-through
F936 – Þórdalsheiðarvegur
936/F936 Þórdalsheiðarvegur map
Road F936 (in some maps already marked as only 936), Þórdalsheiðarvegur, is an F-road leading along the power lines through a green and stony mountainous valley. Technically, F936 is kind of a “shortcut” from Fjarðabyggð in the east to Road 95 in the west. F936 is pretty rough, however, so it’s doubtful whether it’s really a shortcut. For F-road lovers, Þórdalsheiðarvegur is a nice route to take, though.
Fun fact from our reader: “All those power lines go from Kárahnjúkar dam to Alcoa Fjardáal aluminum smelting company that consumes five times more power per day than capital city Reykjavik. And this road is basically just a service road for them”.
F936 (or 936 already) – Thordalsheidarvegur
Is there a river crossing on road F936?
There’s no river crossing on F936. However, be prepared for steep, rough, and narrow roads leading through a mountainous area.
What car do I need for road F936?
Although it’s possible to drive F936 in good weather in any 4×4 vehicle, we do recommend taking at least a medium 4×4 car. There are some really steep parts at F936. In case you meet a vehicle going in the other direction, or if you meet Mr. snow on the road, it’s much safer to have a bigger car.
F946, or Loðmundarfjarðarvegur, is one of the most remote roads in Eastfjord of Iceland. It leads via mountainous terrain to the hut in Loðmundarfjörður which is inhabited only seldom. The road has picturesque surroundings and is definitely worth a drive in nice weather and proper car.
The map above depicts both road 946 and F946 from Borgarfjordur Eystri up to Loðmundarfjörður hut. F946 starts roughly in the half.
Is there a river crossing on road F946?
There’s no river crossing on F946. However, be prepared for a steep, rough, and narrow road leading through a highly mountainous area.
F946 Loðmundarfjarðarvegur Borgarfjörður Eystri
What car do I need for road F946?
Although it’s possible to drive the road in good weather in a medium-sized 4×4 vehicle, we do recommend taking a large 4×4 car. There are some really steep parts at F946. In case you meet a vehicle going in the other direction, or if you find snow on the road, it’s much safer to have a bigger car.
F959 or Viðfjarðarvegur is an F-road quietly hidden in Eastfjords leading to very remote Viðfjörður fjord. F959 is very scarcely driven, we drove it in a high season at the end of July and we were the only foreign car on the road. Viðfjarðarvegur is worth the drive if you enjoy remote mountain roads and lonely places where you will be completely alone surrounded just by Icelandic countryside.
Is there a river crossing on road F959?
There’s no river crossing on F959, only some small puddles and streams. The main obstacle of Viðfjarðarvegur is not rivers, but its steep, narrow, and bumpy parts. The major, the most exciting, and also the most dangerous part of the road is a drive via a narrow mountain pass with steep falls on your right and steep mountain slopes on your left (coming from the south).
F959, Viðfjarðarvegur, leading (surprisingly) to Viðfjörður
The road is wide just enough for one car. If you meet another car, you have to think a lot to find a spot where you can both pass. This of course involves even more dangerous maneuvers of driving uphill or downhill in reverse or similar.
What car do I need for road F959?
F959 is technically passable by any 4wd car. We were more than happy, however, to have our big Land Cruiser with enough ground clearance and enough horsepower in case of a car got stuck or in case of meeting another car.
Choose your car wisely when driving steep and rough F-roads. Feel free to read how to choose a proper car or how to pick the best Icelandic car rental insurance. We also collaborate with Icelandic car rental companies to give you a discount and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.
F959 video drive-through
F980 – Kollumúlavegur
F980 Kollumúlavegur
F980 is called Kollumúlavegur because it leads to Kollumúli mountain cabin in the Lónsöræfi highlands. F980 is beautiful and so are the surrounding landscapes. But the road is really dangerous due to its river crossing of the Skyndidalsá river. You may try to drive up to the river and then turn back. Never drive alone through the river. You may end up like this.
Is there a river crossing on road F980?
Yes, there are some medium-sized river crossings at all parts of F980. The major river crossing is located roughly in the middle – this is the Skyndidalsá river. This river crossing is one of the biggest in Iceland, together with Krossá on F249. Never go alone, never attempt in anything else than a super jeep, and better go with a guide.
F980 Kollúmulavegur to Lónsöræfi
What car do I need for road F980?
Up to the Skyndidalsá river (roughly in the middle of F980) you should be fine with a large 4×4. If you want to cross the river, your option is only and only a super jeep + someone else crossing with you.
Not sure what type of car to choose? Feel free to read how to choose a proper car or how to pick the best Icelandic car rental insurance. We also collaborate with Icelandic car rental companies to give you a discount and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.
F980 advice from the local
“I tried to do it once by almost the end of October. No snow in low lands yet. The river was not big, doable with my Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.0 CRD, 32 inches, and snorkel. But up in the mountains, after about 20km it became more and more difficult: foggy and some snow. I could probably do it to the end but since I have never been there I did not know what to expect. The road is sometimes very narrow and on the edge of the mountain. I was thinking if somewhere I could no longer continue, it would have been difficult to even turn around. Thus, I decided to turn back.
I assume in summer I cannot cross the river because there are so many river beds with deep trenches…if full of water, difficult to get oriented and where to drive. In summer you definitely need a super jeep and someone knowing the river with close eyes. But even then, you should expect for unexpected. I heard that even very experienced local drivers in their super Jeeps ended up by being rescued. Indeed, such river is no joke at all.”
F980 video drive-through
F985 – Jökulvegur
Jökulvegur is an F-road leading to Skálafellsjökull glacier, a branch of the biggest Icelandic glacier – Vatnajökull. F985 mostly serves as an access road to the glacier. Tour companies take their jeeps with snowmobiles and transport tourists together with snowmobiles directly to the glacier via this road.
F985 has probably the biggest number of zig-zag bends out of all roads I’ve driven in Iceland. Jökulvegur will lead you to a pretty high altitude through a steep gravel road. F985 seems to be short on the map, but in reality, it felt to be quite a long drive. And the drive is not for those afraid of heights Several parts of the road will test your guts.
No, there are no river crossings on F985. But – the road is steep, narrow, with some pretty dangerous parts. Thus, the main threat of this road is mountain passes, not rivers.
What car do I need for road F985?
I drove F985 in our modified Land Cruiser and had no problems at all. It may be dangerous to drive all these steep ascents and rough gravel with Dacia Duster or anything smaller. Yes, it may be possible, but irresponsible. I better recommend taking a Land Cruiser or anything bigger, no shame for a super jeep.
F985 advice from the local
“We just went up F985 a couple of weeks ago on a super jeep tour. The road takes you all the way up to the station for snowmobile tours on Vatnajökull, where it ends. I saw smaller vehicles driving on the road, so it would appear that you can drive it under ‘normal’ conditions in summer, but be advised that it is narrow and windy and there is always the possibility of a HUGE truck coming around the corner at you.
The views are amazing on this road, especially as you get further up. Our super jeep guide kept going even when the road didn’t, bringing us through the snow and up onto the glacier for views across the top of Iceland. “
F985 video drive-through
214 – Kerlingardalvegur
Road 214 leads to one of the most beautiful hiking areas in Iceland called Þakgil, or Thakgil. The road to Thakgil is adventurous and beautiful and would be worth driving even if you decide not to hike in the area. The surrounding landscapes form a scenic combination of lush green hills and volcanic black ash.
Is there a river crossing on Road 214?
There’s no river crossing on road 214 to Þakgil campsite. The road is just very bumpy and full of big holes.
Road 214 Kerlingardalvegur to Þakgil on a beautiful sunny day.
What car do I need for Road 214?
When Road 214 is open in summer, you officially do not need any special car to drive it, any 2wd car should be sufficient. That being said, the road is so bumpy, we better recommend a car with high enough ground clearance, i.e. Dacia Duster and bigger. Small cars may struggle and need to be very careful not to scrape their bottoms.
Not sure what type of car to choose? Feel free to read how to choose a proper car or how to pick the best Icelandic car rental insurance. We also collaborate with Icelandic car rental companies to give you a discount and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.
Road 214 video drive-through
558 – Berserkjahraunsvegur
558 advice from the local
“Berserkjahraun is located on the Snæfellsnes peninsula in Western Iceland. It’s a 4000-year-old lava field and the twisty unpaved road going through it is called Berserkjahraunsvegur (558). It’s only 10.6 kilometers (6,5 miles) long but offers breathtakingly beautiful views and landscape. 558 is doable with a passenger car, even though there are some bumpy sections. “
Since road 612 is officially not an F-road, it also doesn’t contain any river crossings. Other challenges are present, though.
Breiðavík beach next to road 612
What car do I need for Road 612?
Officially, 612 is accessible by any 2wd car. I do recommend a 4wd though, at least a smaller one. The road eventually gets rough and you may damage the undercarriage of your car if its ground clearance isn’t big enough.
The last part of Örlygshafnarvegur is a rough, narrow gravel road with many potholes, leading across the mountainous area and sometimes even next to the coastal edge simultaneously. It’s definitely doable by any 4wd (not sure how it looks in rough weather, though). We also met several 2wd cars, but they were struggling at least. Sure, in good weather you can make the last part even with 2wd, it will just take you much longer than in 4wd and you will be probably blocking many 4wds waiting behind you.
Not sure what type of car to choose? Feel free to read how to choose a proper car or how to pick the best Icelandic car rental insurance. We also collaborate with Icelandic car rental companies to give you a discount and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.
622 – Svalvogavegur
622 definitely is one of the most thrilling driving experiences that Iceland has to offer. Shelf roads through cliffs, beautiful views, and then of course the bit below the sea level. A smaller 4×4 will NOT be a good option here
622 advice from the local
“First bit of 622 is paved and in good shape, it is after a “4×4 vehicles only” warning sign when things start to get interesting. The road gets super tight and narrow, as it’s carved inside a cliff. Drive this part slowly and carefully, as it’s wide enough only for one car – having a cliff on the left and a steep drop down on the right. There is also a danger of falling rocks.
And now to the exciting part of the main attraction of the road – the sketchy bit down at sea level. First, there is a quite steep descent and the road starts to go between the sea and the cliffs. But soon it gets very narrow and sometimes we were basically kind of driving beneath the cliff, exposed to the waves crashing against the road. With a high tide, this part of the road can easily be underwater.
So, it is super important to be informed about the weather conditions while being on that road, as there is no help near and mobile connection is very limited. During our drive, the weather wasn’t the calmest and there were waves partly crashing onto the road, but we got through there in one piece. Also, this section is super rocky and bumpy and needs to be driven with extra care.”
622 video drive-through
624 – Ingjaldssandsvegur
624 advice from the local
“624 (Ingjaldssandsvegur) is a mountain road located in the northwestern part of the Westfjords region in Iceland. It starts from Highway 60 (Vestfjarðavegur), runs over a mountain, and ends up at Ingjaldssandur valley. The highest elevation of the road is 508 meters (1667 feet) and it’s passable only during the summer months.
The mountain pass is quite steep at some places, but the road is generally in good condition and shouldn’t be a problem for a simple crossover for example.”
624 video drive-through
630 – Skálavíkurvegur
630 advice from the local
“There is no winter service for 630, so the road is accessible only during the summer months. But despite being unpaved and opened only for some time during the year, the road itself is in good condition and easily accessible for simple passenger vehicles without 4WD.
A really exciting place near this route is Bolafjall Mountain, which is 635 meters (2086 ft) high. But it’s worth mentioning that weather can often be very foggy and cloudy up there and we were waiting three days for our shot, always rescheduling and aiming for the sunshine and clear sky. It’s definitely not pointless to go there when cloudy, you can still check out the Latrar Air Station and experience the tight mountain road (in that case with very poor visibility). But I’d say the views over the area are at least 60% of the experience up there.”
630 video drive-through
635 – Snæfjallastrandarvegur
635 advice from the local
“635 is unpaved, but it’s easily passable for a simple passenger vehicle (at least during the summer months!). I highly recommend stopping for a coffee break or lunch at Steinshús if you happen to be on this road. However, it’s worth mentioning that the cafe it’s not open all year round.
A track going towards Drangjökull glacier is also located in the middle of 635. You can drive on the trail until a parking spot and from there on it’s possible to hike all the way to the glacier.
A tiny cute church called Udalaskirkja is at the very end of the road. In my opinion, 635 isn’t as exciting a driving experience as road 643 for example, but it’s still a nice drive if you have some spare time to spend in Westfjords.“
635 video drive-through
643 – Strandavegur
Road 643 or Strandavegur is the only road leading to the legendary Krossneslaug hot spring. It is the terminal road of the area.
643 is a very scenic coastal drive and not an easy one. I highly recommend taking it, though because it’s a great experience. Feel free to read about our detailed experience with 643 here and in our journey diary.
Is there a river crossing on road 643?
Since road 643 is officially not an F-road, it also doesn’t contain any river crossings. Other challenges are present, though.
Overview of Strandavegur, a.k.a. Road 643
What car do I need for Road 643?
Road 643 heading towards Krossneslaug is definitely doable by any SUV in summer and definitely was doable by our Dacia Duster. Officially, you’re allowed to drive the road even with a normal 2wd car. However, this is one of the very few “normal” roads in Iceland, where I don’t recommend using a 2wd car. There are just too many potholes for it. Yes, you can do it also with 2wd, but take a lot of additional time. We’ve done it in about 2 hours (one way) and I would say with 2wd it’s additional 1-2 hours.
Not sure what type of car to choose? Feel free to read how to choose a proper car or how to pick the best Icelandic car rental insurance. We also collaborate with Icelandic car rental companies to give you a discount and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.
832 – Vaðlaheiðarvegur
832 advice from the local
“Vaðlaheiðarvegur is an old mountain pass over Vaðlaheiði mountain in North Iceland. There are three ways to get from Akureyri to North-East Iceland. The first one is a paid tunnel on the ring road, the second one is a combination of roads 84 and 83 and the third one is road 832.
Road 832 goes on top of the tunnel. It’s quite a fun alternative to the other options and shouldn’t be a problem to get through during the summer months. If you are afraid of mountain driving, don’t recommend it, though 🙂 It even has a small unbridged stream.”
832 video drive-through
939 – Öxi
Road 939 is a shortcut from Djupivogur towards Egilsstaðir and it’s passable only in summer.
In summer, road 939 is accessible by any 2wd car. For the more comforting feeling, I would drive it with at least a small 4wd SUV, though. The road is mountainous and steep and the weather may get ugly around the area.
Not sure what type of car to choose? Feel free to read how to choose a proper car or how to pick the best Icelandic car rental insurance. We also collaborate with Icelandic car rental companies to give you a discount and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.
939 video drive-through
Austurleið next to Þríhyrningsvatn
Austurleid is also the name of an entire F910 road. Here, however, I talk about the 20km long section between roads F905 and F907. We used Austurleid to traverse from Askja towards Studlagil canyon.
Is there a river crossing on Austurleið?
Austurleið by lake Þríhyrningsvatn didn’t contain any serious river crossings, just small rivers and small ponds of depth 20-30cm at max.
What car do I need for Austurleið?
Austurleid is a secluded F-road with all of the characteristics of any other general F-road – not well paved, not well maintained, potholes, gravel, but no serious river crossings. This makes Austurleid easy to pass.
Basically, any 4wd is sufficient for Austurleid. Just consider the connecting roads. If you are e.g. planning to visit Askja before or after, you will need at least a medium-sized SUV.
Map of the Bjólfur mountain track leading to the viewpoint and avalanche barriers
Bjólfur mountain track is a road leading close to the peak of the Bjólfur mountain with amazingly beautiful views over Seydisfjordur. The spot where Bjólfur track leads is marked on Google Maps as “Bjólfur avalanche barriers”, surprisingly, because there are avalanche barriers.
Bjólfur road is very steep and open strictly only when all the snow has melted. Bjólfur track is nothing for those with a fear of heights or small cars.
Is there a river crossing on Bjólfur track?
There’s no river crossing on Bjólfur road. However, be prepared for a steep, rough, and narrow road leading virtually directly to the top of a mountain.
Bjolfur mountain road
What car do I need for the Bjólfur track?
Although it’s possible to drive Bjólfur track in good weather in a medium-sized 4×4 car, we do recommend taking at least a large 4×4 car. There are some really steep parts at Bjólfur track. In case you meet a vehicle going in the other direction, or if you meet mr. snow on the road, it’s much safer to have a bigger car.
A warning – Bjólfur track is not even an F-road, it’s just a track! You can read more about what “track” means in Iceland. In short, this means the track is even more difficult than F-roads and most car insurance packages do not cover it. Always check with your car rental company if it’s covered, otherwise, you are going at your own risk! Secondly, drive the track only if you already have experience with F-roads!
Bjólfur track video drive
Botnlangalón track
Botnlangalón track map
Botnlangalón track is one of the worst roads in Iceland. It’s undoubtedly the worst track we’ve driven in Iceland. The track is one of the three access roads leading to lake Langisjór. And, as the name suggests, it will first get you to the remote lake of Botnlangalón. Then, you can either turn back and drive back via the neighboring Faxasund track or finish your journey towards Langisjór in the eastern direction.
So why would anyone even bother driving this crazy track? Well, except for a guarantee to be alone in moon-like surroundings, there’s a surprise near the end of the road. A scenic drive in a river bank directly through canyon made of broken stones.
Is there a river crossing on the Botnlangalón track?
Yes, there are many river crossings throughout the track. None of them is huge, though. The biggest typically qualify as medium-sized river crossings. Beware – there’s no guarantee some crossing may become much bigger in a particular year or season!
What car do I need for the Botnlangalón track?
River crossings are not the main problem of the Botnlangalón track. Road quality is! The track is barely maintained, with huge holes, steep and uneven parts. A typical scenario involves a steep ascent combined with a hole slalom followed by “I-cannot-see-in-front-of-me” steep descent of similar quality. Take nothing less than a super jeep in here. Even our modified Land Cruiser struggled here and almost didn’t make it!
A warning – Botnlangalón track is not even an F-road, it’s just a track! You can read more about what “track” means in Iceland. In short, this means the track is even more difficult than F-roads and most car insurance packages do not cover it. Always check with your car rental company if it’s covered, otherwise, you are going at your own risk! Secondly, this track is only for very experienced drivers aware of all risks!
Botnlangalón track video drive
Emstrur track
Emstrur track leads to one of the popular huts along the Laugavegur trail called Emstrur-Botnár hut (or Emstruskáli in Icelandic). Emstrur track also leads to the best (eastern) viewpoint of an amazingly beautiful Markarfljótsgljúfur Canyon. There are three branches of the track – the eastern one, the northern one, and the western one.
Here is the article where we write in detail about how we drove the Emstrur track. We drove the northern branch on our way there and a western branch on our way back. The western branch was a nightmare 🙂
Is there a river crossing on the Emstrur track?
There is no river crossing on Emstrur track. There are several other challenges, though. See below.
What car do I need for the Emstrur track?
You need a big 4×4 car, such as Land Cruiser, at minimum. We, however, better recommend driving a super jeep with high clearance. Although the Emstrur track doesn’t have any river crossings, it is steep and very uneven, with big sharp boulders every now and then. There are also pretty big holes in the road, even our modified Land Cruiser struggled at times when we drove the road.
A big warning – the Emstrur track is not even an F-road, it’s just a track! You can read more about what “track” means in Iceland. In short, this means the track is even more difficult than F-roads and most car insurance packages do not cover it. Always check with your car rental company if it’s covered, otherwise, you are going at your own risk! Secondly, drive the track only if you already have experience with F-roads!
Emstrur track video drive
Faxasund track
Faxasund track map
Faxasund track is the second most difficult access road leading to lake Langisjór. The main attraction of the track is its remoteness and harsh, yet fascinating, surroundings.
Is there a river crossing on the Faxasund track?
Yes, there are severalriver crossings along Faxasund. They typically don’t get bigger than just medium-sized river crossings, but there’s never a guarantee for this.
What car do I need for the Faxasund track?
We recommend a super jeep. A skilled driver may be able to pass with a large 4×4 like Land Cruiser or Hilux, but only in ideal conditions.
Similarly to Botnlangalón track, the main obstacle of this road is not river fords. The track terrain is the issue. The worst part of Faxasund is located near the junction with F208. It consists of thousands of sharp stones, some of them being too big to just drive on. Big ground clearance and slalom skills are required.
A warning – Faxasund track is not even an F-road, it’s just a track! You can read more about what “track” means in Iceland. In short, this means the track is even more difficult than F-roads and most car insurance packages do not cover it. Always check with your car rental company if it’s covered, otherwise, you are going at your own risk! Secondly, drive the track only if you already have experience with F-roads!
Faxasund track video drive
Gígjökull track
Gígjökull track is a detour from the road F249 (Þórsmerkurvegur) leading to Thórsmörk. Gígjökull track will (as its name suggests) take you to one of the glacier tongues – Gígjökull glacier tongue. Many guided tours make a stop here. Here is the article where we write in detail about how we drove the Gígjökull track.
Is there a river crossing on the Gígjökull track?
Yes, there are 1-3 fast-flowing medium-sized rivers (depending on whether you go from the west or from the east, there are 2 branches of the Gigjokull track).
What car do I need for the Gígjökull track?
You need a big 4×4 car, such as Land Cruiser, at minimum. We, however, better recommend driving a super jeep with high clearance.
Gígjökull glacier and river crossings
A big warning – Gígjökull track is not even an F-road, it’s just a track! You can read more about what “track” means in Iceland. In short, this means the track is even more difficult than F-roads and most car insurance packages do not cover it. Always check with your car rental company if it’s covered, otherwise, you are going at your own risk! Secondly, drive the track only if you already have experience with F-roads!
There is no river crossing on the Hekla track. There are several other challenges, though. See below.
What car do I need for the Hekla track?
Although there are no river crossings, expect very steep and uneven terrain to drive on. The most difficult part is the last kilometer, which makes for a very steep final ascent toward the Hekla volcano. This part of the Hekla track is one of the steepest roads you can find in Iceland. It can be very dangerous when driven improperly.
You need a big 4×4 car, such as Land Cruiser, at minimum. We, however, better recommend driving a super jeep with high ground clearance for the whole area. Is it possible to drive the Hekla F-road in Dacia Duster? Well, everything is possible – at least once. But it is simply irresponsible because there’s a high chance you’re gonna damage the car and nobody could come to rescue you.
A big warning – Hekla track is not even an F-road, it’s just a track! You can read more about what “track” means in Iceland. In short, this means the track is even more difficult than F-roads and most car insurance packages do not cover it. Always check with your car rental company if it’s covered, otherwise, you are going at your own risk! Secondly, drive the track only if you already have experience with F-roads!
Hungurfit track is probably the most amazing, remote, versatile, and challenging track (yes all four at the same time) we’ve driven in Iceland. It is a “shortcut” from F261 to F210 through the inner Fjallabak highlands and there’s a Hungurfit hut and Króksskáli hut on the way.
Yes, there are many small to medium-sized river streams along the Hungurfit track. There’s also one pretty fast-flowing medium-to-big-sized river in the second half, closer to Hungurfit hut. This river crossing scared us a bit, but under good conditions, with proper experience and a big enough car, it’s doable.
What car do I need for the Hungurfit track?
You need a big 4×4 car, such as Land Cruiser, at minimum. We, however, better recommend driving a super jeep with high ground clearance.
Hungurfit road is versatile and challenging with probably all the challenges you can expect. There are steep parts, narrow parts, big potholes, river crossings, and sharp boulders and the road is totally remote and not serviced.
A big warning – the Hungurfit track is not even an F-road, it’s just a track! You can read more about what “track” means in Iceland. In short, this means the track is even more difficult than F-roads and most car insurance packages do not cover it. Always check with your car rental company if it’s covered, otherwise, you are going at your own risk! Secondly, drive the track only if you already have experience with F-roads!
Hungurfit track video drive
Hvannagil track
Hvannagil valley road map
Hvannagil track is a more or less average gravel road leading along Hvannagil valley, close to the Lónsöræfi area and along the huge and picturesque riverbed of river Jökulsá í Lóni. Most visitors use the Hvannagil road to get to hiking trails in the beautiful Hvannagil golden valley.
You may get to the first half of the Hvannagil road – the start of the Hvannagil hike trail – by any car in the summer. The road leading to Hvannagil valley is semi-paved and narrow but without any river crossings. There’s no designated car park, but you can safely park your car in the huge gravel area. This is a good starting point for the hikes in the area.
After reaching Hvannagil valley car park, it’s possible to continue further following the dirt road, or better said a dirt track, along the river, deeper into the highlands. We drove the track for a few more kilometers with our Land Cruiser and you definitely need a 4wd car for this first part of the track. Maybe even a super jeep for the latter parts (which we haven’t driven yet).
A warning – the Hvannagil track is not even an F-road, it’s just a track! You can read more about what “track” means in Iceland. In short, this means the track is even more difficult than F-roads and most car insurance packages do not cover it. Always check with your car rental company if it’s covered, otherwise, you are going at your own risk! Secondly, drive the track only if you already have experience with F-roads!
Hvannagil track video drive
Jökuldalsvegur
Jokuldalsvegur connects road 923 with F907 and stretches along the entire length of Studlagil canyon. It’s a semi-paved non-F-road, so you may basically treat it as a normal, but old road of worse quality.
Is there a river crossing on Jökuldalsvegur?
Since Jokuldalsvegur is not an F-road, it also doesn’t contain any river crossings. Other challenges are present, though.
What car do I need for Jökuldalsvegur?
If you aim only for Jokuldalsvegur (e.g. you want to visit Studlagil canyon), any car would be fine. Jokuldalsvegur is a bit rough compared to normal roads, but definitely doable also with a 2wd car.
If you, however, aim to combine your trip with visiting Askja, go for at least a medium-sized 4wd car.
Krakatindur track is a rough dirt track that leads through the inner highlands of the northern Fjallabak reserve, in between Hekla and Rauðufossar waterfall. Krakatindur track leads to the dark and remote mountain called Krakatindur (that’s why its name is surprisingly the same).
Is there a river crossing on the Krakatindur track?
There is no river crossing on the Krakatindur track. There are several other challenges, though. See below.
Krakatindur track near Hekla. Watch out for your car’s ground clearance!
What car do I need for the Krakatindur track?
Although there is no river crossing on the Krakatindur track, it is very rough, and uneven, with huge potholes, narrow passages, no road service at all, and totally remote. Even our modified Land Cruiser was struggling at times with some parts of the road, so please don’t go in here with cars like Subaru Forester or Suzuki Jimny…
You need a big 4×4 car, such as Land Cruiser, at minimum. We, however, better recommend driving a super jeep with high ground clearance for the whole area. Is it possible to drive the road in Dacia Duster? Well, everything is possible – at least once. But it is simply irresponsible because there’s a high chance you’re gonna damage the car and nobody could come to rescue you.
A big warning – Krakatindur track is not even an F-road, it’s just a track! You can read more about what “track” means in Iceland. In short, this means the track is even more difficult than F-roads and most car insurance packages do not cover it. Always check with your car rental company if it’s covered, otherwise, you are going at your own risk! Secondly, drive the track only if you already have experience with F-roads!
Krakatindur track video drive
Möðrudalsleið
Modrudalsleid is a rough, semi-paved road that serves as a gate towards F-roads to Askja – F905 and F907.
We found out that the more the name of the road resembles some killing machine the rougher the actual road is, but that’s just what we’d observed. Möðrudalsleið is a quite good gravel road (compared to many other F-roads) so it’s possible to drive really fast.
Is there a river crossing on Möðrudalsleið?
Since Möðrudalsleið is officially not an F-road, it also doesn’t contain any river crossings. Other challenges are present, though.
Möðrudalsleið road, the first gravel road you’re gonna encounter when coming from Egilsstaðir direction
What car do I need for Möðrudalsleið?
You may drive Modrudalsleid with basically any car. There are only small potholes, so even a 2wd car would be suitable. You will just have to drive slower because gravel may damage your car more easily if it has a very low ground clearance.
If you are planning to continue towards Askja, you will need a medium-sized 4wd car, though. Read more about that in the section where I write about F905 and F910.
Skaelingar track is an amazing alternative to road F235 leading to Langisjór lake. The track first takes you to the Skælingar hut (Skælingaskáli). Then the track turns into the Blautulón track, which leads along the edge of the picturesque lake Blautulón and then connects to the official Langisjór F-road F235.
Is there a river crossing on the Skælingar Blautulón track?
Yes, there is one medium-to-big river crossing, right in the beginning when you turn from F208 south (Fjallabaksleið Nyrðri), close to Eldgjá, to Skaelingar track. You will be driving a few tens of meters through the actual riverbed. Since the crossing is right in the beginning, you may just look at the crossing and if feeling unsure, better turn back and drive the regular F235 to Langisjór.
Besides this river crossing, there is also a legendary lake crossing! Yes, you hear it well, a lake crossing. You’re gonna be driving a few hundred meters via the edge of lake Blautulón. You need to be sure to drive not too far from the edge and at the same time not too close to it to damage your car with the nearby cliffs. This can be both fun and dangerous, so be sure to have proper experience and a car before trying it.
Between the Skælingar track and Blautulón track to Langisjór
What car do I need for Skælingar Blautulón track?
You need a big 4×4 car, such as Land Cruiser, at minimum. To be sure to drive the Skaelingar track even in bad weather, we better recommend driving a super jeep with high ground clearance for the whole area. Is it possible to drive the track in Dacia Duster? Well, everything is possible – at least once. But it is simply irresponsible because there’s a high chance you’re gonna damage the car and nobody could come to rescue you.
A big warning – Skælingar track is not even an F-road, it’s just a track! You can read more about what “track” means in Iceland. In short, this means the track is even more difficult than F-roads and most car insurance packages do not cover it. Always check with your car rental company if it’s covered, otherwise, you are going at your own risk! Secondly, drive the track only if you already have experience with F-roads!
Strútur track starts just west of Maelifell, the legendary picturesque mountain. It leads to Strútsskáli hut and also to many amazing hiking trails. There are trails to Rauðibotn crater lake, the trail to Hólmsárbotnar, or a beautiful trek to a wild hot spring in the highlands called Strútslaug.
Yes, you will have to cross several streams and one medium-to-big-sized calm river. You’re actually gonna drive roughly a hundred meters in the river itself, not just crossing it. This can be both fun and dangerous, so be sure to have proper experience and a car before trying it. And definitely read our river crossing guide.
Strutur track to Strutslaug in a foggy weather
What car do I need for the Strútur track?
You need a big 4×4 car, such as Land Cruiser, at minimum. We, however, better recommend driving a super jeep with high ground clearance for the whole area.
A big warning – Strútur track is not even an F-road, it’s just a track! You can read more about what “track” means in Iceland. In short, this means the track is even more difficult than F-roads and most car insurance packages do not cover it. Always check with your car rental company if it’s covered, otherwise, you are going at your own risk! Secondly, drive the track only if you already have experience with F-roads!
River crossings are the main challenge of Icelandic F-roads. If it wasn’t for them, 95% of F-roads would be easy to pass. However, they do exist and create a significant obstacle. Improper river crossings may cause huge and expensive damages to your car. In extreme situations, even your life may be at stake. That being said – prepare thoroughly for your river crossings! Here is a detailed guide on how to cross a river in Iceland.
With river crossings, it all comes down to HOW, WHERE and WITH WHAT.
By HOWI mean general rules for a safe river fording. It’s essential to adhere to them, no matter how big your car is.
By WHEREI mean where are you crossing. What is the type of river? How big is it? What is the season? How much did it rain recently?
By WITH WHAT I mean the type of vehicle you are operating. Generally said, the bigger the better – but it’s more complicated.
How to safely cross Icelandic rivers? (HOW)
Make a plan. Do you have a proper car? What types of rivers are in your way? Are you equipped sufficiently? Think before.
Check the road conditions. If they say impassable, don’t even try it yourself. Isak 4×4 can help you with their Convoy driver or sit-in guide. If they say passable, read further. What does it mean passable, impassable, and no winter service? Here is the explanation of Icelandic road states.
Examine the river.
So you arrived at the river. If you can see with your eyes that it’s a small river or even just a pond, you may usually proceed with passing. What’s a small river? Read below in “WHERE“.
If you can’t assess the depth with your eyes, find out physically. Go into the river. How are you supposed to do that in ice-cold water? Get inspired by how we’ve done it.
Alternatively, wait for someone else (ideally with a similar car) to pass.
Compare the river to your car. The essential thing is, whether your air intake is high enough above the water level. But that’s not the only thing. See below in “WITH WHAT“.
Stay inside yellow markers. Those mark the area allowed for crossing (and usually also shallowest). They are situated on the borders of a passable area.
Go for the shallowest part.
If it’s a medium-sized or even a bigger river, it’s really important to cross it through the shallowest part. This is usually NOT the exact middle of the river crossing, but rather its sides.
This is usually NOT where the river is calm – that’s typically the deep part. Better find a part where you can see the stream of river running into pebbles and cross on that pebbles.
Turn 4×4 mode on.
Drive slowly.
First, max second gear, around 10kph to create a little “wave” around your car. Ride that wave.
If you drive too quickly, water will splash into your engine and your car may be dead. See below in “WITH WHAT“.
Don’t stop. Don’t switch gears. If you do, you may not get the car going again. Don’t get scared by your car shaking inside the river, just go steady.
Down the stream. If it’s possible, go with the stream, not against it. This will lower the chances the water will get into your engine.
Stay near the rope. Sometimes there’s a rope in the river. It’s not there by coincidence. Rangers installed it there typically to indicate the shallowest part. Drive near the rope, this should be the best spot to cross the river.
What types of river crossings are in Iceland? (WHERE)
The basic categorization can be made according to the depth of the river crossing.
PONDS
Up to 20cm / 8 inches.
If the depth of a river crossing is this shallow, you don’t have to bother much about crossing at all. It’s doable with any car, even with a 2wd one.
SMALL
20 to 40cm / 8-16 inches.
Here some ground clearance of your car starts to make sense. I consider 40cm to be still a small river but it’s already a non-trivial crossing. If you do it wrong, you may end up like this.
MEDIUM
40 to 70cm / 16 to 28 inches.
This is already some decent river crossing. You will probably not get drowned but you may waste your car easily.
It’s still a manageable crossing though, even for beginners! You just have to adhere to river crossing rules strictly and drive a proper car.
I would avoid these at all costs if I was a river crossing beginner. Not only may you waste your car, but you could also get yourself seriously injured, if not killed.
You need to have a combination of a) proper car, b) adhering to river crossing rules, and c) experience
The depth of the river is the single most important factor when it comes to a river crossing. There are of course several other aspects influencing your fording:
Has it rained heavily for a few days? Add some centimeters on top of your expected river depth.
Is it just early summer? Glacial rivers will have substantially more water compared to the late summer.
What is the riverbed like? Is it stony or muddy? If it’s muddy, it will be harder for you to ford.
What car do I need to cross rivers? (WITH WHAT)
Ok now you know HOW to cross and WHERE will you be crossing. It’s time to get to WITH WHAT. A right car is essential. But how are you supposed to know what car is the right one? Of course, we are talking only about 4wd/4×4 now:
The bigger the ground clearance (and wheels), the better. Because of several reasons. Firstly, your air intake will be higher (see below). Secondly, the chances you will get stuck in a river are lower. Thirdly, the chances, you will damage your undercarriage are lower.
The higher the air intake, the better. Study this one carefully. The main risk with river crossings is flooding your engine with water (then the engine usually becomes dead). This happens once the water reaches an air intake of your car. The water level should be AT LEAST 10cm/4inch below your air intake!
The stronger engine, the better. Inside rivers, some additional horsepower may only help. BUT – use your horsepower on the lowest/2nd lowest gear only when crossing the rivers!
Snorkel is a plus. If your car has a snorkel installed, it basically deals with point number 2. It adds considerable height to your air intake. It’s not everything, though. You may have a snorkel, but with the too-low ground clearance, you could still get stuck in a bigger river.
When there are only PONDS in your way, you may basically choose any car.
When there are SMALL RIVERS in your way, ideally choose any SUV or 4wd car.
When there are already MEDIUM RIVERS in your way, choose your car wisely and better opt for at least a medium-sized SUV.
When there are BIG RIVERS in your way, either avoid them at all or if you really want to, then choose the super-jeep.
We also offer you FREE discount codes for several Icelandic car rental companies.
Example of the correct river crossing
Correct river crossing of Sydri Ofaera river on F233
Every river crossing in Iceland is specific, and road F233 is a nice example of it. Syðri-Ófæra river crossing is the biggest obstacle of the notoriously known F-road Álftavatnskrókur or F233. Sydri Ofaera is typically a big river and also a very specific and unmarked river fording. The correct crossing is not obvious at first glance, but locals know it well.
The trick is, you should NOT ford straight. Rather, you have to drive in a U-shaped pattern. BUT – not to the east where the river is deep, but to the west, where it is shallow. OK, and why not go straight? Because there are huge boulders in the way that could easily stop even a super jeep.
Example of how NOT to cross the river
The video below from our friend Lucas is a nice example of how NOT to cross the river in Iceland. The driver has done nearly everything wrong:
Drove through the deepest point (middle), instead of the shallowest parts (both sides where the ropes are)
The river depth was too deep for Dacia Duster (in the middle), the car almost died and the driver was just lucky the engine started again.
Blocked the road for another car, taking pictures and even being rude to them!
Driving too fast through the second river crossing.
Below is a beautiful example of possibly the biggest mistake you should avoid when crossing rivers in Iceland. Never go fast! You will flood your engine this way. Exactly as the guy below flooded his engine. The car was dead within a second.
The orange mountains of Kerlingarfjöll are one of the most beautiful places in the highlands of Iceland. Its main geothermal area – the Hveradalir Hot Springs – offers otherworldly colors like no other place in the world!
You can best enjoy the spectacularness of this place on one of the fantastic Kerlingarfjöll hiking trails or by soaking in the Kerlingarfjöll hot spring!
We have been to Kerlingarfjöll three times and are happy to share all our experiences about the area, trails, places, and conditions.
You can easily get to Kerlingarfjöll in summer by highland roads (F)35 and F347from the south or the north.
The optimal route depends on what your other plans are. Technically, it’s a shorter route from the south, but the difference is negligible.
F35, aka Kjalvegur, near Hveravellir towards Kerlingarfjöll
By Car
Kjölur, Kjalvegur, or just (F)35 is a long gravel road connecting north and south Iceland. Somewhere around halfway through it lies the detour towards the Hveravellir hot springs area, and a bit further towards the south lies a detour towards Kerlingarfjöll.
There are better parts of Road 35 and worse parts of Road 35. Better parts mean you may drive quite fast. Worse parts mean a lot of potholes and turns, i.e., you have to drive slowly. Importantly, there are no river crossings on F35, only very small ponds doable even by a 2wd car.
A final detour to Kerlingarfjöll, F-roadF347, also has no river crossings and is pretty similar to F35. The closer you approach the Highland Base, the more the road becomes mountainous and interesting.
By Bus
There used to be a bus service from Reykjavik to Kerlingarfjöll, operated by Gray Line, but it has been discontinued recently. Most likely due to being uneconomical for the bus provider.
The only way to reach Kerlingarfjöll other than driving there yourself is by taking the guided tour.
By Tour
A picture from the Kerlingarfjöll guided tour on a clear day
Only a handful of providers in Iceland offer guided tours to Kerlingarfjöll. We picked two of them – one from Reykjavik and one from Akureyri, which we believe are the best. We also partnered with them to exclusively offer you discounts on these tours.
10% discount code for the Kerlingarfjöll guided bus tour from Reykjavik: EPICICELAND24
You can easily see the top places in Kerlingarfjöll in one day. And they mostly involve breathtaking hikes.
The most popular place to visit is undoubtedly the Hveradalir Geothermal Area, the main attraction of Kerlingarfjöll. But there are also many other spots, not many travelers know about!
Kerlingarfjöll Hikes
The number one activity is hiking. Kerlingarfjöll treks offer unique, stunning, and mystical views that will make you feel like you’re on another planet.
The most famous hike is the shortest Hveradalir Hot Springs hike among scenic orange hills and bubbling hot pots. Our favorite is the much lesser known Snækollur hike instead, with even better views!
Horseshoe Bend
The Horseshoe Bend in Kerlingarfjöll. Photo by amazing www.adventures.is
The Horseshoe Bend is a place that got famous thanks to Instagram, yet almost nobody knows its location. Well, this picturesque twisted river is situated next to Road F347 to Kerlingarfjöll.
Gýgjarfoss Waterfall
Gýgjarfoss
Another beautiful stop along your way to the Hveradalir Geothermal area should be Gýgjarfoss waterfall. It typically stays almost unnoticed along Road F347.
Kerlingarfjöll hot spring
Bathing alone at Kerlingarfjöll hot spring
There is one and the only hot spring in Kerlingarfjöll where you can bathe. It’s totally worth a separate 1-hour hike!
The Highland Base
The Highland Base hotel, formerly The Kerlingarfjöll Mountain Resort
The only accommodation in the area used to be called the Kerlingarfjöll Mountain Resort. However, it has recently gone through a major reconstruction and will soon turn into the luxurious Highland Base.
Once in Kerlingarfjöll, you have numerous hiking options. The two most popular Kerlingarfjöll hiking trails we really enjoyed are the hike to Hveradalir and the Kerlingarfjöll Hot Spring hike.
Although these two hikes are a must-see, we recommend checking out also the other hikes in Kerlingarfjöll! Some of them are even more scenic than these two! Our secret tip is a hike to Fannborg and Snækollur.
Map of Kerlingarfjöll hiking trails
Map of all Kerlingarfjöll hiking trails
Above is the Kerlingarfjöll hiking trails map depicting the most favorite trekking options.
This time it’s not rainbow mountains, no black sand, no green moss. This time, it’s orange mountains mixed with wild sulphuric hot springs and snow. A lot of snow. And cold. And the wind. Welcome to Hveradalir.
Want to hike to Hveradalir? You don’t have to drive all the way there, you can also start at the Highland Base. This area is called Ásgarður in Icelandic.
It will take you around an hour and a half to reach the Hveradalir area, and you may enjoy some additional nice views on top of that.
The main advantage of this trail is that the Highland Base is both your start point and endpoint. The disadvantage is the time aspect, as you will be spending additional 3 hours just getting to and from Hveradalir.
Hverabotn is another geothermal area in Kerlingarfjöll, different from Hveradalir. It’s located further away from the main area, which is a reason why it’s not so popular.
You can hike to Hverabotn either from the Highland Base or from Hveradalir. Either route you choose, it will take you less than 2 hours one-way.
Mænir is one of the tallest peaks of Kerlingarfjöll. It’s also part of the legendary multi-day ring hike called the Hringbrautin Circuit.
Hiking Mænir is more difficult due to poorly marked trails and challenging terrain. On the other hand, you will definitely be alone on this expedition and enjoy one-of-its-kind views.
9. Ögmundur, Röðull and Höttur hike
Ögmundur, Röðull and Höttur peaks in winter, photo by: https://highlandbase.is/
Hiking time: 3 to 5 hours, one-way
Difficulty: very difficult, glacier crossing
Trail Map:Hiking trail
If you are up for a challenge and a very experienced hiker, you may attempt at hiking the three peaks of Ögmundur, Röðull, and Höttur. The panoramas will be stunning.
These three summits too are among the tallest in Kerlingarfjöll and are often covered by snow, even in summer.
10. Hringbrautin Circuit
Kerlingarfjöll Circuit hiking trail, photo by: Krator, under CC3
The Hringbrautin Circuit, also known as the Ring Route or the Kerlingarfjöll Peaks Hike, encompasses all the biggest summits of Kerlingarfjöll.
This hike is sometimes wrongly being called as Austurfjoll Peaks by other bloggers who haven’t even hiked any of these peaks.
This is a very challenging multi-day hike, where you will be going to need very good gear (e.g. crampons) and be in a very good physical condition. It will take you about three days and involve sleeping in mountain huts, bivouacking, and crossing rivers.
Our Kerlingarfjöll Tips and Experience
Kerlingarfjöll – Hveradalir hot springs geothermal area
When to go
You can easily visit and hike Kerlingarfjöll only in summer, typically from June to September. This is when the roads to Kerlingarfjöll are officially open to foreign visitors.
The accommodation options in Kerlingarfjöll are very scarce. Only one place, the Highland Base, is designated for overnight stays. Alternatively, you may also stay in Hveravellir.
The Highland Base Hotel
Visualization of the new Highland Base hotel
The Highland Base Hotel is the newly refurbished lodge and the only hotel in Kerlingarfjöll. It used to be called the Kerlingarfjöll Mountain Resort.
It now offers multiple different accommodation options in various budget categories. You can stay in the mountain hut, in the luxury lodge, or even in the dormitory room.
Kerlingarfjöll Campsite
Visualization of a new Kerlingarfjöll campsite
You can camp in Kerlingarfjöll in summer. The campsite is located just next to the new luxurious Highland Base Hotel. Just bear in mind the weather conditions.
Kerlingarfjöll camping is one of the coldest places in Iceland available for camping.
On the 8th August, 3 pm in the afternoon (i.e. probably one of the warmest times possible) the temperature climbed to tropical 5°C (41°F). And the strong wind didn’t help it at all, making everything feel even some 5°C colder. Now doing the math that nights are additional 5°C-7°C colder compared to daytime temperatures, you’re going to be freezing for sure.
Our Tips
Come on a day with clear skies. Or at least try to do it. It will be a very hard task, but more than just worth it!
Don’t go when it’s too foggy. Or when it rains too much. You will see very little of otherwise breathtaking Hveradalir.
Bring hiking poles. If you plan any longer hikes than just the main Hveradalir Geothermal Area.
Dress well. Layers are a must. Kerlingarfjöll is one of the coldest places in Iceland. Daily summer temperatures often hover just around 5°C (41°F).
Hike to Snækollur. If you are fit enough. This is the most rewarding hidden hike of Kerlingarfjöll.
Take a dip in the hot spring. There’s just one where you can bathe, but totally worth the detour.
Leave the pretty shoes at home. The orange soil in Hveradalir will partially destroy your shoes. At best, they will just be very dirty.
In short, we drove F35 from north to south. We first stopped at Hveravellir hot spring area, then hiked at Kerlingarfjöll as a highlight, and we finished our day in the south by seeing Gullfoss and Strokkur. We had camped at Varmahlíð campsite the night before.
But remember, we are still talking about Iceland, so the environment will always be lovely, just not extraordinarily so (as was the case with formerly mentioned roads).
F347 road next to Hveradalir hot spring area in Kerlingarfjoll
The F35 also seemed to attract a pretty high volume of cars. This can be a slight nuisance as many of them either crawl along at a snail’s pace or race down the track. And, as you can imagine, Icelandic F-roads are not exactly designed for maneuvering past other vehicles.
Our Hveradalir hike experience
Once we reached Hveradalir geothermal area via a quite steep final part of the road F347, we felt like entering a whole new world. The orange-white universe.
We spent roughly an hour and a half wandering around the place, savoring each second, except for the chilly gusts.
Our latest visit to Hveradalir
As for visibility, the foggy mist would dissipate to reveal slightly clearer skies, and then roll back in again, all in a span of 5 minutes. Therefore, a little patience could reward you with better photographic opportunities. Alternatively, you could just get lucky and arrive during a clear weather spell.
Our tip: There are several smaller hills with wooden stairs-like steps almost on each of them to help you with the ascent. Your shoes will be full of orange clay anyway, though.
We hiked about 4-5 hills, retracing from each back when deep snow began to blanket the path or when we ascended to heights entirely shrouded in fog.
Our Kerlingarfjöll hot spring experience
Our Kerlingarfjöll hot spring trip
On our second visit to Kerlingarfjöll, we finally managed to hike to the Kerlingarfjöll hot spring where you can bathe. And I highly recommend you take this hike!
Our tip: The trail is marked well and this walk can easily be done also with small children.
We did this easy trek in a moody weather accompanied by a light drizzle and it was pleasant anyway. The most rewarding is naturally the end with the hot spring hidden in the middle of nowhere.
Snækollur hike is more difficult, but it was worth every (steep) step for us. Especially on a clear day. We encountered one of the best views in Iceland at Snækollur.
Kerlingarfjöll vs Landmannalaugar
Should you rather visit Landmannalaugar or Kerlingarfjöll? If you have the opportunity, don’t hesitate and go see both! Experiencing Landmannalaugar is very different from Kerlingarfjöll.
Both are located in the Highlands and are predominantly hiking areas, but the commonalities end here. The comparison doesn’t make much sense to us, but if you insist, here is the one:
LANDMANNALAUGAR:
Rainbow mountains, more colorful, green and blue are present
Bigger campsite, more visitors
More difficult and also more beautiful access roads
Various hikes of various difficulties
Typically a pretty crowded free hot spring
Views over Landmannalaugar
KERLINGARFJÖLL:
Orange mountains with hot springs and fumaroles
Less packed campsite and fewer visitors
Easy access roads
Various hikes of various difficulties
Typically an empty remote hot spring
So what if you can visit only one of these places? It’s best if you decide based on where’s better weather. If the weather is the same, I would then go for Landmannalaugar because it’s slightly more impressive and diverse for a first-time visitor and also closer to the ring road.
Askja Volcano is one of the most amazing places in the Icelandic Highlands you can possibly visit.
Askja is an otherwordly moon-like area with several volcanic craters and calderas. The biggest one, Lake Askja, is filled with ice-cold water. On the other hand, the smallest one, Lake Víti, is a geothermal hot spring!
*2025 UPDATE: Askja is still an active volcano and, although not imminent, the eruption may happen any time. We highly recommend you consult rangers in Dreki huts before your visit!*
The map below displays all roads leading to Askja caldera, river crossings, campsites, and all the interesting places around Askja. If you are looking for the main Askja hiking trails, scroll below.
How to get to Askja
You can get to Askja by various combinations of rough and long highland F-roads:
from the East via roads F905, F910, and F894 (difficult terrain, medium river crossings)
from the North via F88, F910, and F894 (easier terrain, sometimes difficult river crossing)
from the West via F910, and F894 (very difficult terrain, difficult river crossings)
You may drive to Askja yourself, take a guided bus tour, or a guided super jeep tour. Round trip to Askja takes around 5 to 7 hours of driving on 300km (185 mi) of roads.
Road F905 to Askja on an exceptionally beautiful sunny summer day
By Car
We have driven all of Askja roads several times. Unfortunately, many “bloggers” out there will tell you many misleading facts about these roads, which they just copied from somewhere else. We won’t 🙂
There are river crossings on the way to Askja. Please study how to cross rivers in Iceland in advance or don’t go on your own!
The Easiest way
The easiest way to reach Askja depends on road conditions:
If water levels are higher, roads F905 and F910 from the east are the easiest way. In this case, the river Lindaá on F88 may become bigger and dangerous. F905 and F910 to Askja are much bumpier, though.
If there’s little water in the rivers, then F88 from the north is the easiest road to get to Askja. On dry days, the terrain on F88 is much much easier to drive compared to the combination of F905 and F910 from the east.
One of the common misconceptions about roads to Askja is that the most treacherous one is always F88 from the north. Many “bloggers” just write this without further explanation because they have never actually driven F88.
The truth is, it’s all about the Lindaá river crossing on F88. If there’s a lot of water in this river, then yes, this one spot is difficult, and you need a large 4×4 car to pass safely. In the opposite case of low water levels, F88 is in reality easier due to flatter and less bumpy terrain.
Our Tip: If you are a first time visitor, better take the combination of the roads F905 and F910. If you already know how to cross rivers in Iceland, then F88 will be quicker and easier for you.
The Most Beautiful way
The most beautiful roads leading to Askja are undoubtedly roads F905 and F910 from the east. The surrounding landscapes are stunningly versatile.
You will be driving on gravel, through black ash fields, yellow sands, and even on huge volcanic boulders.
F88 from the north is, on the other hand, a bit monotonous with harsh and simple surroundings. The main attraction along F88 is a legendary Herðubreið volcano with a flat top.
What Car do You need
To safely get to Askja, you need to drive at least a medium-sized 4wd car. Roads to Askja are rough highland roads with several obstacles like sand, stone boulders, and river crossings.
Cars with higher ground clearance are necessary for Askja. Some examples of minimum capable vehicles include Suzuki Jimny, Dacia Duster, Jeep, or Land Rover.
The main advantage of the Askja bus tour is that it’s the cheapest option out there. The main disadvantage is a bigger number of co-visitors and likely nausea from driving.
Don’t want to go on your own? Take an epic Askja jeep tour!10% discount code: EPICICELAND
By Private Jeep Tour
Did you know you can even take a private tour to Askja? This is a bit unconventional way of visiting Askja but definitely a memorable one. And fully flexible and tailored to your needs!
And also with a 10% discount code: EPICICELAND 🙂
When to Go
Our visit to Askja volcano area
You can visit Askja only in the summer, typically from July until September.
Askja opens to visitors once all the snow on the roads has melted and the roads are safe to drive. This usually happens between mid-June and early July.
The area then becomes inaccessible again sometime between mid-September and early October.
Askja is an active volcano area. Better check with the Askja ranger in Dreki before every visit.
Askja Volcano area
A useful map of the Askja volcano area
The main highlights of your visit to Askja will surely be the huge Lake Askja, or Öskjuvatn in Icelandic, and the smaller geothermal lake Víti.
A short glossary may be useful at this place:
Askja = name of the entire area; Askja is a volcano on the southern side of the big lake.
Lake Víti = volcanic crater you are probably aiming for, with blue picturesque geothermal water working as a hot spring.
Lake Askja (Öskjuvatn) = a big lake just next to Víti, with no geothermal water.
Askja hiking trails
Askja hiking trails
There are three main hiking trails in Askja:
Lake Víti trail – 30 minutes of easy walking from Vikraborgir car park at the end of the road F894; the most popular and rewarding trail
Drekagil Gorge trail – 2 hours of more difficult hiking from Dreki huts to Lake Askja; an adventurous ravine trek with beautiful views over Askja
Dyngjufell trail – 3-4 hours to Dyngjufell hut; this is part of the long central highlands trail
Lake Víti
Hiking trail down to Lake Víti, sometimes called Askja crater
From the Vikraborgir car park, it takes some 20-40 minutes of walking the well-marked path with yellow sticks to reach the place everybody admires in the pictures – i.e. Víti crater. This was the highlight of our trip. From this spot, you may either:
Just admire the beauty of Víti crater and the massive Öskjuvatn lake next to it, or
Hike around the area, or
Hike down the Víti crater and swim in the green/blue geothermal water, as we chose
Lake Askja
Lake Askja, or Öskjuvatn, next to the famous Víti crater
Öskjuvatn, or just Lake Askja, sits just a stone’s throw from the stunning Víti caldera. It is a fantastic photo spot on a nice day. We especially loved shooting both lakes in one picture.
Things to Do around Askja
Tourists normally head only to the main highlight, the Víti crater. But there’s more to see around Askja.
Volcanos, lava fields, hot springs, and canyons are just a glimpse of the Eastern Highlands of Iceland.
Herðubreið volcano
Herðubreið volcano next to the road F88
Herðubreið volcano is the main highlight of the highland F-road F88 leading to Askja from the north.
Fun fact: Herðubreið is a legendary flat-top mountain which has even won the award "Best Icelandic Volcano".
Drekagil Canyon, or Drekagil Gorge, is a picturesque ravine connecting Dreki huts with Lake Askja. You can hike all the way through the canyon when the hiking trails are open.
Always ask about trail conditions at Dreki Huts before going. There’s a range during summer.
Holuhraun Lava field and F910
Holuhraun lava field on western F910
When, instead of taking F894 to Askja, you decide to drive F910 further toward the southwest, you will reach the Holuhraun lava field.
Holuhraun lava field was formed during a huge and famous eruption in 2014 which lasted for 6 months and had been the biggest in over 300 years.
Laugavallalug Hot Spring
Laugavallalaug hot waterfall spring in the eastern Icelandic Highlands
Long story short, Laugavallalaug happens to be located quite close to Askja, on the southernmost end of the road F910.
Hafrahvammagljúfur Canyon
Hafrahvammagljúfur, although hard to pronounce, easily belongs to one of the hidden gems in Iceland.
Hafrahvammagljúfur is a huge canyon in the Eastern Icelandic Highlands, south of Askja. Almost nobody visits this place, yet it is pretty accessible by road 910 from the south.
You can also get to Hafrahvammagljúfur from Askja by various combinations of F-roads. A medium-sized 4wd car is necessary from this direction.
Stuðlagil Canyon
Stuðlagil Canyon, view from the western side
You’ve probably already heard about Stuðlagil, or at least seen it in the photos. Stuðlagil Canyon has become one of the two most popular canyons in Iceland.
Stuðlagil can easily be visited on a day trip to Askja because it’s located next to the road F907 south of Askja. We wrote in detail about getting to Stuðlagil.
Although suffering from over-tourism a bit, Stuðlagil Canyon is still a beautiful spot to visit, especially when the water is clear and not polluted by the Karahnjúkar dam.
Our Askja Experience
Crossroads between Möðrudalsleið gravel road and F905 leading to Askja
We visited Askja for the first time at the end of August on a beautiful sunny day. Having heard stories about terrible weather full of fog and rain holding at Askja for most of the time, this really seemed like a blessing.
Möðrudalsleið road, the first gravel road you’re gonna encounter when coming from Egilsstaðir direction
On our first visit, we arrived from Egilsstaðir on the ring road and then turned left for the road without any number on Google Maps with a fancy name Möðrudalsleið. I guess the more the road’s name resembles some killing machine, the rougher the actual road is, but that’s just what we’d observed. Nevertheless, Möðrudalsleið is a quite good gravel road compared to many other F-roads.
F910, or Austurleið, continuation of road F905 towards Askja
After driving some two-thirds of the road, we turned left to F905, where a real adventure began. By “a real adventure,” I mean nothing dangerous, just endless out-of-this-world landscapesas if you were on another planet.
Different types of surface alternate between each other, each more beautiful than the one before. Gravel, clay, rocks, sand, sulfur – anything you can imagine, surrounded by unforgettable views of the volcanic hills.
There are two medium-sized rivers on F905. When we reached the first river, there was already a 4×4 car waiting in front of the river, I think Toyota Landcruiser. It seemed like a driver wanted to see someone else cross first. I stepped out of the car and inspected the river. This one was not very wide, and I could observe where the best part to cross it was, even by visual inspection. The river’s depth was some 40-60cm at the deepest point, so you ought to have an appropriate 4×4 car for medium-sized rivers and follow river crossing rules not to sink your car.
Gated bridge at F905 road towards Askja. Just open the gate when crossing the bridge and close it afterward.
After spending some time on F905, the road turns into F910, which is very similar in its character to F905, just, once again, a bit different. There are a few parts of the road where you’re going to drive on huge volcanic rocks, and you have to drive carefully not to damage your car – this is where a good 4×4 with high ground clearance is useful.
Driving F88
F88 – Öskjuleið to Askja from north
On our second and third trips, we always drove the road F88. It is quicker, less bumpy, and generally easier to drive than F905 and F910. It saved us a lot of time.
The are two caveats to F88, though:
The first one is the Lindaá river crossing, which is typically even smaller than rivers on F905. But sometimes it may become bigger when there’s too much water in Lindaá. In other words, rivers on F905 are more stable in size.
The second one is the landscapes around F88 and the driving terrain. Both of these are, simply said, more boring compared to the surroundings of F905.
Driving F894
Vikraborgir car park, the closest point available on your route towards Askja/Víti crater
Once you arrive at Dreki huts, you may leave your car here and go for an 8km hike towards Viti and Öskjuvatn, and you will enjoy the beautiful mountain area even more. What we did, was to drive as close to the actual geothermal Víti Lake as possible and spend most of our time there.
To do that, you must take the F894 road, i.e., a slight turn right coming from the F910 direction, standing in the Dreki huts spot. The road is rough and rocky, with volcanic stones and rocks everywhere. At the end of the road, you will reach the car park with another toilet booth called the Vikraborgir car park. This is where you have to leave your car.
Hiking to Askja and Víti
Easy walking path from Vikraborgir car park towards Víti and Öskjuvatn will take you 20-40 minutes one way.
Hike to Askja from the car park turned out to be an easy walk on the flat surface. The hike is well-marked with yellow sticks.
However, I can easily imagine this leisurely trek may become strenuous when the weather changes to wind, rain, or fog. Or the combination of all three.
Bathing in Askja hot spring
Me swimming in 25°C sulphuric water of Víti crater in Askja
When we reached the Askja caldera, we decided (or better said, my wife decided) to hike down the Víti crater.
This was one of the few moments of our journey when I was a bit scared. The descent was steep, and the ground was covered with slippery clay, which means you cannot control your fall in case it happens.
Nevertheless, it’s a short descent and not too dangerous, so in good weather, you should be able to make it. Once down in the caldera, you may enjoy swimming in the water with a temperature around 25°C, which is not a hot spring but warmer than air (at the time of our visit, around 10-15°C). Once-in-a-lifetime experience.
Driving to Studlagil and Laugavallalaug
F910 towards Askja
If you want to reach the Stuðlagil canyon and/or the gorgeous Lagauvallalaug hot spring, you need to traverse south via the combinations of the road F910, F905 and possibly roads 907, 923 or F923.
Road 907 and 923 are just rough gravel roads without any sizeable river crossings. The conditions on the southernmost F910 and F923 are very similar to the rest of F910 and F905 – expect at maximum medium-sized river crossings.
Driving F910 from F26
Map of F910 west – Dyngjufjallaleið – leading from Nyidalur to Dreki
On our fourth trip, we dared to drive F910, Dyngjufjallaleið, across central Highlands. This is one of the harshest and most remote Icelandic F-roads.
It took us 6 hours to drive the central F910 from Nyidalur next to F26 all the way to Dreki huts in Askja.
I’ve done tons of research on how to choose the best car for Iceland. I’ve done tons of research on Icelandic car rental companies, reviewing more than 50 of them. If you are like me, and you want to do your research on your own, then Northbound.is would be a great place to start when choosing the best car rental for Iceland. The car is a really important part of any road trip in Iceland, for us, the car was the most important thing to have in many aspects. What I concluded after a thorough research was the following. Primarily, you have to decide what kind of trip do you want to do:
Of course, you can always opt for the big, expensive, super-jeep 4×4 car which will serve you for all of the options above. You will be fine, you’re gonna just end up paying much more. What we primarily aim for in this article, is the best performance to price ratio, as many people aim for as well. If you aim for that too, here’s what I advise to do (for the trip types from above):
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1. Ring road only, no F-roads
Small 2wd car
Basically any car, just read carefully what’s included in the insurance. We took a Hyundai i20 for our first day because it was cheaper than roundtrip from the airport to Reykjavik by bus. The company I can recommend for this kind of trip is Go Car Rental or Lava Car Rental. Mostly because they offer one of the cheapest cars in Iceland while being a reliable car rental company that doesn’t scam its customers. Lately also Lotus Car Rental went with their prices lower, so they are one of the cheapest now as well.
If you want to go for a Campervan option, I can highly recommend Go Campers or Happy Campers. They are one of the biggest and cheapest campervan companies in Iceland. You can be more than sure that your experience with them will be awesome. CampEasy is also a great choice you won’t regret.
Want to rent a Motorhome in Iceland? The best Motorhome company in Iceland is definitely McRent.
2. F-roads with no river crossings or only minor ponds
Small 4wd car
Basically any 4×4 car. If it wasn’t for the Icelandic law, which requires you to have 4×4 on EVERY F-road, I would say even 2wd car would be sufficient for most of the Icelandic F-roads which do not have river crossings, during good weather. They are just really bumpy with many potholes, but in 90% of cases easily passable. Bad weather may change this dramatically of course. We had the best experience with Lotus Car Rentaland besides our experience, heard great feedback on Go Car Rental from many travellers as well. But, of course, if you prefer to do your own research go for sites like Northbound.is.
Looking for the best campervan in Iceland? We can highly recommend Happy Campers or Go Campers. They are the most reliable and most friendly campervan companies in Iceland. They also rent 4×4 campervans! Additionally also CampEasy is great.
Want to rent an RV or a Motorhome in Iceland? The best RV rental company in Iceland is definitely McRent.
Lotus car rental promo code: A PROMO CODE epicicelandd5 will get you a 5% discount with Lotus and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.
4×4 car with decent ground clearance, i.e. in my opinion at least 18 centimetres and with air intake which is high enough (at least your hip height). Best performance to the price in this category is for me undoubtedly Dacia Duster 4wd, the option we firstly took after my research. Again, we had the best experience with Lotus Car Rental, but you should do well also with Go Car Rental or your own research which is easiest to start with the Icelandic search engine Northbound.is.If you feel unsure and better want to go for the safest option, take one of the big Toyota cars (Land Cruiser or Hilux). The best Toyota car rental company in Iceland is MyCar.
MyCar promo code: A RARE PROMO CODE EPICICELAND will get you a 5% discount with MyCar and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.
4. F-roads with bigger river crossings
Big 4wd car
The smallest option for this kind of roads is a Toyota Land Cruiser. Several companies offer Land Cruisers for rent and we had the best experience with MyCar Rental. MyCar offers exclusively Toyota cars and all of them are brand new high-quality models. Toyota Hilux is a great alternative to Land Cruiser as well. If you want to do your own research, Icelandic search engine Northbound.isis great for that.
The only Icelandic car rental company with a river crossing insurance for your Land Cruiser is again Lotus Car Rental. If you aim for even bigger car than Land Cruiser or Hilux, here comes the Land Rover Defender to the scene! The biggest and most renowned Land Rover rental company in Iceland is undoubtedly Isak 4×4 Rental.
Isak 4×4 promo code: A RARE PROMO CODE epiciceland will get you a 10% discount with Isak 4×4 and us a small commission at no extra cost to you.
For bigger cars you need to go for the so-called super-jeep 4×4 car. You need to have really high ground clearance, strong engine, artificially modified air intake, very good tires and other things a car mechanic would describe better than me. Even in this case, crossing big rivers (like Krossá near Thórsmörk) may be dangerous. There are just a few companies which will let you rent a super-jeep, where one with the best performance to price ratio is Isak 4×4 Rental according to my research.
The second great super jeep rental company is a legendary Ice-Rovers with 25+ years on the market and beautiful modified Land Rovers. There’s also one “super jeep” which you may rent from MyCar (and which we took).
Ice-Rovers discount: Just email ICE ROVERS asking for an exclusive “3% Epic Iceland discount” and you will get it right away!
It’s all about river crossings
At the end of the day, it’s all about river crossings. The size of rivers you want to cross determines what car do you need for those rivers. Apart from river crossings, there’s nothing super dangerous about Icelandic roads in the summer (well OK, sometimes they are steep, narrow and bumpy). Winter season, of course, changes this significantly and factors like how the car handles snow come into the force.
If feeling unsure, NEVER do a bigger river crossing, you may risk your life. It’s also better to wait for someone else do the river crossing first and many other rules we describe in our river crossing article. The same applies, if you don’t have enough experience, or it’s your first time crossing a river – do NOT do bigger river crossings without prior experience.
River crossing in Iceland. Taken from https://www.foodiebaker.com/day-3-iceland-travelogue/
During our first Icelandic trip I wanted to try many interesting F-roads and see the magical surreal landscapes surrounding them, so I haven’t even considered options 1 and 2. I finally opted for option 3, because you are able to see the majority of the most beautiful places in Iceland without crossing big rivers. You cannot avoid the small to medium ones, however. Secondly, a price jump from option 3 to option 4 is a bigger one, you can easily double the price of your rental car because of it being a super-jeep.
Under option 3, i.e. medium 4×4 (or 4wd is sufficient as well), the clear winner in terms of performance to price ratio has been Dacia Duster. I can confirm this after our 12 day ring road trip. We successfully drove all our planned roads without any problems, crossing around 20 rivers, including several medium-sized ones. I can highly recommend Duster under normal weather conditions even in the Highlands with smaller river crossings.
Although we didn’t experience any heavy rain during our drives on F-roads, Duster should still be capable of dealing with most of the situations, except big rivers, which, however, is not an option 3 anymore. You can read this blog further for a list of F-roads which we’ve done and also to see which rivers are considered to be small to medium-sized ones.
Road 60, or Vestfjarðavegur in Westfjords towards Dynjandi waterfall
Car rental company and insurance – 4wd
For me, this was an easy choice. I wanted to do the river crossings. That means, there is always an option that your car can get stuck in water or your engine may be damaged by water. And this may cost thousands of Euros. I definitely wanted to avoid that. And, since there is only one car rental company in Iceland which insures you even for river crossings, I’ve opted for this company – Lotus.
River crossings are part of their platinum insurance package, which costs around 40eur/day, i.e. almost the same as platinum insurance packages from other car rental companies that do NOT insure you in case of river crossings. Although a car rental via Lotus costed a bit more (around 100eur/day for 11 days) compared to some other companies, river crossing insurance was a deal-breaker for me.
On top of that – not only Lotus insures you in case of river crossings – it also allows you to drive on ANY F-road. What does this mean? Majority of car rental companies do not allow you to drive certain roads (e.g. F249, F210, F980). What does it mean “do not allow”? Firstly, you can get fined for doing that. Secondly, in case you drive them, no insurance applies for your rental, even if you paid for the platinum one.
Of course, with some roads, this makes sense, like the ones I mentioned above, as they may be often dangerous. However, rental companies often tend to forbid you driving even on F-roads which are not that dangerous, but the rental company has “some risk” that you may damage the car somehow, so they better forbid you to drive the road. Which makes really no sense to me – why am I borrowing a 4×4 car then, which is allowed to drive F-roads, when a rental company doesn’t allow me to drive almost half of them?
That’s why I firstly chose Lotus. They let you drive on any F-road and their insurance applies in case of ALL F-roads, which really is a great feature. Then it’s up to you to judge which routes are doable for you and which are not.
F208 road from Vik towards Landmannalaugar
Our 4wd car rental experience
With Lotus, the entire rental process was really smooth, you’ve got a nice website with all info you need, you’ve got really great reviews (I would say the best among all rental companies in Iceland).
We arrived at the car rental desk, being the only customers at that time (unlike in the case of some other companies). The car was ready immediately. Kudos to Laura at the desk, who explained to us everything we needed, showed us how to operate the rooftop tent, how to use wi-fi router, gave us advice on how to drive the car the best way and other important basics. The car was in a great condition without any damage (unlike in the case of some other companies).
I asked Laura on her opinion about river crossings we were planning to do and she reassured me they all should be doable in case I drive properly, even in Dacia Duster, and that most of them she had done already and are not that hard. She told us the only river she doesn’t recommend us crossing is Krossá river on the road to Thórsmork, which reassured me even more. I was pretty sure I don’t want to cross this one, I was just afraid whether the ones we were planning (like F208, F235, F905, F910, F347) are not too dangerous as well. For example, some famous Icelandic rental companies are banning you from doing F910. Her reply reassured me that they should be fine.
Fellabær campsite next to Egilsstaðir
I studied a lot about how the car may be damaged when crossing a river, so my last question was where the air intake of Duster is located. She replied that it’s somewhere above her hip height (i.e. some 80-100cm) which reassured me even more. I definitely was not planning crossing rivers that big (from what I’d studied, the biggest should be around 50-60cm maximum). So, empowered with my newly gained confidence from Laura’s advice, we started our journey.
Our super jeep car rental experience
Honestly, I’ve done a really exhausting research on super jeep car rental companies, when planning our highlands road trip. I also thought about buying a car or renting a car privately from someone local. Neither of those was possible, nor made sense, though. If you want to buy a car in Iceland, you need an Icelandic ID (kennitala) and a lot of time 🙂 I had none of these. And if you want to rent a car privately from the local, no insurance will ever protect you, and it’s probably also not entirely legal. Not to mention that no Icelander will rent you his super jeep toy :))
I summarized my findings and experience with Icelandic super jeeps in our article How to rent a super jeep in Iceland. Long story short, I narrowed down the list of affordable super jeeps to just 2 super jeep rental companies – Isak 4×4 and MyCar. And we finally went for MyCar and their modified Land Cruiser with snorkel. It was a very close battle, but MyCar won it by a notch, because their Land Cruiser was slightly bigger and newer compared to the Land Rover Defender of Isak 4×4 and the price was similar.
If we had a bigger budget, however, we would definitely go for the Land Rover Super Defender from Isak 4×4. This is the biggest super jeep you can rent in Iceland. It’s a beast. We offer a 10% discount to our readers for Isak 4×4 with the promo code: epiciceland.
But coming back to our MyCar rental experience – it was great. They offer a free 24/7 airport shuttle to their Keflavik rental office. They also rent exclusively only brand new Toyota cars. Moreover, MyCar has a network of Toyota car repair shops all over the country. In case anything happens, this is a very useful feature. When it comes to insurance, we took only a basic option and bought full insurance (engine, undercarriage, windows, tires, …) from RentalCover. We wrote about our Highlands trip with MyCar extensively.
Our 2wd car rental experience
For our first day in Iceland, we decided to rent a cheap 2wd car due to several reasons. Firstly, we wanted to explore Reykjavik, Keflavik and their surroundings at least for a few hours, for which a 4×4 car would be useless. Secondly, we wanted to prepare for our trip doing shopping etc. for which again a 4×4 would be useless.
Last but not least by renting a 2wd car we saved around 80Eur compared to 4×4 rental and saved even compared to a return journey from Keflavik to Reykjavik by bus, not to mention the flexibility the car gives you). So I’ve done quick research for a cheap car rental company with good reviews. Yes, you definitely don’t want a company with a bad reputation, trust me – this can cost you money and nerves on your holiday. I narrowed my search to Lotus and Go Car rental. And we finally chose Go Car rental, because they were cheaper.
Go Car rental, one of the best Icelandic car rentals
GoCar has a great office location, right next to the airport hotel Aurora, only 200m walking distance from the departure hall. This means, no taxi or bus needed! The rental process was quick and smooth and the rental included all the useful insurances for a 2wd car – CDW, SCDW, GP & TP (see our car rental insurance guide if you are interested in insurance details).
I didn’t buy any additional insurance on top of the compulsory one (CDW, TPL), because damaging the car on a way from Keflavik to Reykjavik and back was highly improbable. When returning the car the next day, the return process was smooth. There were no customers waiting and nobody bullied us with any examination of the car scratches, so it luckily took maybe 5 minutes altogether.
Everybody Googles these headlines. Everybody wants to have a private, remote experience. Nobody enjoys crowds of tourists, shouting, leaving litter, and waiting in queues for pictures…
Well, Iceland is one of the few places around the world where it’s still possible to experience “remoteness”. But, it’s getting worse each year. Covid definitely helped with over-tourism a bit. The everlasting question still remains, though:
How to avoid tourists?
Be creative. We offer you inspiration, how.
Sigoldugljufur canyon. A remote, magical, non-touristy place.
Googling for phrases like hidden gems, off the beaten track or best-kept secrets usually won’t work. Once it’s easy to Google it will be also crowded. So how to find non-touristy places?
The road to the place is steep, unpaved, or even not marked on the map
The place is not even accessible by car
4X4 car only
The way we chose when searching for secluded places was to focus on sights accessible only by 4×4 vehicles. This way we eliminated at least all those who are not friends with driving on F-roads. And it’s a great adventure as well.
If you opt for extensive highlands driving, as we did, be well prepared, though:
Going for a hike is another interesting option, although not such a comfortable one, due to Icelandic ice-cold weather even in summer. This is also the reason why you very rarely meet crowds on longer hikes. In Iceland, you have countless possibilities of where to go hiking. One of the most popular ones include areas of:
And literally hundreds and hundreds of less-known ones.
Use a ferry
Why not use a ferry? This brings another discomfort to many travelers – you have to carry all of your equipment, you have to plan well for where to leave your car etc, etc. And at the same time, these are the reasons why areas only accessible by ferry are usually the least crowded ones.
One great and most well-known example of this in Iceland is the Hornstrandir Nature reserve. It’s accessible only by ferry and it’s one of the very few places almost untouched by heavy tourism.
The upper part of the hike on Sveinstindur near Langisjor lake on a foggy day with slight rain
Take a super jeep tour
There are numerous great super jeep tours in Iceland in the south (we offer a 10% discount for the best ones! Check out the link on the left) and also in the north (10% promo code: EPICICELAND). This is one of the most expensive options, but definitely the safest one. Some of the dangerous F-roads you simply don’t want to drive yourself. At least not, if you don’t have enough 4×4 experience or if you don’t study them really well in advance. Short on time or experience (or both) and want to see remote places? Go for a super jeep tour.
It’s also possible to rent a super jeep yourself. Not cheap, but very useful for F-roads. You still need to have enough 4×4 experience, know how to cross rivers, study the roads you go to in advance, and check the road conditions. Car is not everything!
Sapphire ice cave with tourists in the background
3. Come in a shoulder season
Well, well. This is an eternal trade-off. You come off-season and you will freeze to death or you will get blown by a heavy wind. You come in a peak season with the best weather and you will be rammed by crowds of tourists. Sadly, it’s not much different in Iceland. Hence, it’s all about the trade-off and you are the final decision maker, what is most important to you.
It’s still useful to understand Icelandic seasons to make an informed decision. The sweet spot seems to be somewhere between May and September. According to your taste of course.
This is an easy trick that is definitely doable in summer. Why in summer? The daylight is very long in Iceland during the summer. During its peak at the end of June, it starts around 3 AM in the morning and ends around midnight.
Tourist count by months
Thus, your easy trick may be to visit the usually most crowded places either very soon, near sunrise, or very late, near sunset. It’s not forbidden to visit beautiful places any time of the day, but also during the night. So if you are up to it, just rent a proper car and go!
This was supposed to be Langisjór campsite according to maps. It just turned out to be a remote place with nobody there.
While Icelandic campsites are usually well maintained and spending nights there is typically a pleasant experience, this is where most of the tourists concentrate. Because it’s cheap. Because it’s accessible.
Option number one is to Google campsites that are either remote or not well known (for example measured by a number of Google reviews).
Option number two is to opt for private accommodation in guesthouses, hostels, or hotels. These are usually small family-run places that cannot accommodate huge crowds.
What is the best hike in Landmannalaugar? When to visit it and how to get there? These are the question we asked when visiting Landmannalaugar for the first time. Below we describe what we think are the most beautiful hikes in Landmannalaugar.
We have visited Landmannalaugar many times and explored all the hikes. That’s why we decided to create the most detailed guide for first-time visitors you can possibly find. Let us know in the comments if we were successful!
Landmannalaugar is located in the Fjallabak Nature Reserve, in the southern Highlands of Iceland.
You can get to Landmannalaugar by car, by bus, or by a super jeep tour. Highland Buses (5% discount code: in our newsletter) run only during the main season, typically from mid-June until mid-September. Outside of the main summer season, it’s highly recommended to take the super jeep tour instead. The roads leading to Landmannalaugar are often full of snow and impassable at that time.
Landmannalaugar by car
Amazingly beautiful roads around Landmannalaugar
How to get to Landmannalaugar by car? You have 3 options on how to reach Landmannalaugar. You can either take the southern route (the most beautiful and difficult), the western route (something in between), or the northern route (easiest).
Firstly, you can drive to Landmannalaugar only when the roads leading there are open. Roads to Landmannalaugar typically open in June and usually close in September. This can vary depending on the toughness of the past and the upcoming winter. Secondly, you need to rent a 4wd car to reach Landmannalaugar.
1. From the south (Road F208)
The southern road to Landmannalaugar is the most difficult and also the most beautiful one. The route leads via an F-road called Fjallabaksleið Nyrðri, or southern F208. This is one of the most beautiful F-roads in Iceland. There are several small and medium-sized river crossings along the way. Dacia Duster or a medium-sized 4wd car is a minimum for this road.
F208 south is our favorite road to and from Landmannalaugar. It’s a once-in-a-lifetime experience to drive it. There are also multiple wonderful detours along the road like Eldgjá or F235 towards lake Langisjór. Take a proper car, study the proper river crossing techniques, and go for it! If you don’t feel like doing these things then take an easier road or a guided tour.
2. From the west (Road F225)
The western route to Landmannalaugar is a good compromise between the beauty of the surroundings and the difficulty of the road. To get to Landmannalaugar from the west, you have to take the paved road 26 and then turn east to an F-road called Landmannaleið or just F225. This is one of the easiest F-roads with one small-to-medium river crossing. This river crossing is great for practice because it’s quite easy to pass.
The road F225 is also the quickest option to drive to Landmannalaugar. The road is shortest by distance and the quality of the road is alright, with no major obstacles. Even Icelandic buses use F225 to drive to Landmannalaugar! The surroundings of Landmannaleið are picturesque and much nicer compared to northern road 208.
3. From the north (Road 208)
The northern road to Landmannalaugar is the easiest and the most boring one. There are no river crossings on this route, just the one final river crossing right before the Landmannalaugar campsite. Officially, you don’t even need a 4wd car for the majority of the route, only for the last part – road F224.
This route consists of driving via road 26, road 208, and road F224. Road 26 is paved and road 208 is a bumpy gravel road with pretty monotonous surroundings. We recommend taking this route only if you are really afraid about driving to Landmannalaugar.
4. Road F224
The last part of the road to Landmannalaugar is a short F-road Landmannalaugavegur or F224. It’s very bumpy and full of potholes, and there is one medium river crossing right at the end of the road, before the campsite. There’s also a car park before the crossing, so you may leave your car there and continue by footbridge to the campsite.
Landmannalaugar by bus
You can get to Landmannalaugar by bus from Reykjavik, Selfoss, or Hella. Buses run only during the main summer season, typically from 15th June until 15th September. See Landmannalaugar bus schedules below. Two main Landmannalaugar bus companies are running the so-called Highlands buses:
The main disadvantage of the buses is that they typically arrive at Landmannalaugar at lunch and leave around 4 pm or 6 pm at the latest. This means you will have only around 4 to 6 hours to explore the area if you want to come back the same day.
Super Jeep tour – mid-range, less people; by far the best is Midgard Adventure (10% discount code: EPICICELAND10)
Private Super Jeep tour – expensive, you will be alone, fully tailored to you; interested? We can take you on our Epic Private tour, just write us at [email protected]
So which one is our personal choice number one? The most authentic way to reach Landmannalaugar is to take a super jeep tour. The experienced local driver will take care of everything and you can just sit and take pictures on the seat of a huge super jeep with a snorkel.
There are many Landmannalaugar super jeep tours, but if we have to recommend just one, it would be a super jeep Landmannalaugar tour by Midgard Adventures. They are a small, local, family company, with 5* reviews only. Their guides are funny, personal, and knowledgeable and their jeeps are majestic. Our readers can also enjoy a 10% discount on all tours by Midgard Adventure with the discount code: EPICICELAND10
Beginning June 20th, 2024 there’s a new parking reservation system in place in Landmannalaugar. You have to reserve your parking spot in advance when arriving at Landmannalaugar between June 20th and September 15th, 2025, between 8AM and 3PM. Otherwise you may be denied parking.
You have to reserve your parking spot in Landmannalaugar between 8AM and 3PM.
The reservation is compulsory for any type of a private or rental car. It’s not necessary for guides and bus tours.
This system is a pilot program and has been introduced only very recently (spring 2024) due to parking chaos that ocurred during the summer season of 2023 in Landmannalaugar.
When to go to Landmannalaugar?
The best time to visit Landmannalaugar is during summer. More specifically, from mid-June until mid-September. This is when roads and hiking trails are typically open. If winter is too strong, roads can sometimes open as late as the beginning of July. On the other hand, if the winter is really mild, roads can open as soon as the end of May. Then they typically close anytime between the beginning of September and mid-October.
Sunny summer view over Landmannalaugar from the peak of Bláhnúkur
Landmannalaugar in summer
Summer is the only time when you can drive to Landmannalaugar on your own or catch a bus to Landmannalaugar. It’s also a time when you can safely hike in Landmannalaugar because the hiking trails are snow-free. Last but not least, the colors of Landmannalaugar are most beautiful exactly in summer, or on the edge of spring/summer or summer/autumn.
Summer weather in Iceland is usually the most merciful. There’s much more to say about Icelandic weather though. In very short words – never underestimate the harsh Icelandic weather and overestimate your physical condition.
Landmannalaugar in winter
Private super jeep tour to Landmannalaugar in winter
It’s possible to visit Landmannalaugar also in winter, but only by a super jeep tour. Winter conditions in Icelandic highlands are very harsh and often life-threatening. This is where you simply need a super jeep and the experience of the local driver. Even they may decide not to go if the weather and road conditions are unfavorable.
That being said, visiting Landmannalaugar in winter is a very unique experience and you will 100% be alone there only with your tour guide. We can highly recommend the winter Landmannalaugar super jeep tour by Glaciers and Waterfalls, for which you can enjoy a 10% discount with the discount code: EPICICELAND
10 best hikes in Landmannalaugar
There are many beautiful hiking trails in Landmannalaugar. If you are really into hiking then Landmannalaugar is a place where you should spend more than just a few hours. Hiking trails in Landmannalaugar range from as short as 30 minutes to as long as 3-4 days. Below are summarized the 10 most popular hikes in Landmannalaugar.
Note:In this article, we list only the best 10 Landmannalaugar hikes in the main area around the Landmannalaugar campsite. There are many other hikes in a wider area called Fjallabak nature reserve and also around Hekla volcano! Be sure to read our articles on these too!
Landmannalaugar hiking map
The most important slice of the Landmannalaugar map for your 1-day trip
Above is the map of the most popular hikes in Landmannalaugar – Blahnukur, Brennisteinsalda, and Laugahraun. These are the hikes accessible right from the Landmannalaugar campsite. This Landmannalaugar map helped us a lot with orientation. I wonder why it’s so hard to find this map online, but this map is basically all you need to know.
1. Brennisteinsalda
Pointing at Brennisteinsalda from the Bláhnúkur hiking trail
Distance from the car park: 5/10 minutes (to the start of the trail, from camping/car park in front of the camping) Hiking time: 1 hour to the top (one-way) Worth visiting in bad weather: depends Difficulty: moderate Hiking trail:Brennisteinsalda hiking trail
There are two main, most beautiful, one-day hikes you can do from the Brennisteinsalda campsite. And it can be a bit confusing to understand the difference between them and how to get to each trail. At least for us, it was in the beginning. So let’s get to the point.
The first of the hikes, the easier and quicker one, is the hike ending at the top of the Brennisteinsalda volcano, or “orange mountain”. It takes about an hour to reach the top and some 30 minutes to come back. The ascent is of normal difficulty and everyone should be able to make it.
2. Bláhnúkur
View from the top of Brennisteinsalda towards Bláhnjúkur
Distance from the car park: 15 or 40 minutes (if you want to go only for Blahnukur or if you first want to go for Laugahraun lava field) Hiking time: 1 hour to the top by the eastern trail, 2 hours by the western trail (both one-way) Worth visiting in bad weather: no Difficulty: moderate Hiking trail: Bláhnúkur hiking trail
The second hike, for me even more beautiful, is the hike to the Bláhnúkur peak or “Blue peak”. It’s a bit longer hike, it took us 1,5 hours to get to the top and some 1 hour to get back to the campsite and you should be in good physical condition to make it, at least compared to other places in Iceland where you just step out of your car and make a 5-minute walk. But it’s definitely doable for everybody and more than just worth it as it’s one of the most beautiful views in entire Iceland. Just be prepared for a mountain hike.
If you are in good physical condition and the weather is good, I definitely do recommend you to go for both peaks – Brennisteinsalda and Bláhnúkur as well. It’s a beautiful loop trail, so you don’t go twice via the same trail and all the views around it are breathtaking. On halfway to Brennisteinsalda, you’re going to cross a lava field called Laugahraun which is interesting as well, although compared to the other peaks it’s not that special.
3. Brennisteinsalda Bláhnúkur loop
View from Bláhnúkur over Landmannalaugar
Distance from the car park: 5/15 minutes (to the start of the trail, from camping/car park in front of the camping) Hiking time: 4-6 hours round-trip depending on your pace Worth visiting in bad weather: usually no Difficulty: moderate to difficult Hiking trail: Brennisteinsalda Blahnukur loop hiking trail
If we had only 1 day in Landmannalaugar, and if we had to choose just 1 hike, then the single best hike in Landmannalaugar is undoubtedly the Brennisteinsalda Bláhnúkur loop hike. Why? Because you can see the majority of the most beautiful parts of Landmannalaugar from the peaks of Brennisteinsalda and Bláhnúkur and the hike is nicely doable in just one day.
Bláhnúkur Brennisteinsalda loop, or the “orange mountain – blue mountain” loop, is not for the elderly or small children, but you can surely do it if you are at least in average shape. Reserve a whole day for this hike and don’t go if it rains considerably or if the wind is too strong. Some parts of the hike are rather steep. We wrote a step-by-step guide to hiking Brennisteinsalda Bláhnúkur loop below.
Distance from the car park: 5 minutes (to the start of the trail, from the roadside car park) Hiking time: 6-8 hours round-trip depending on your pace and how far you go Worth visiting in bad weather: usually no Difficulty: moderate to difficult Hiking trail: Grænihryggur hiking trail
Our personal favorite in Landmannalaugar is the Grænihryggur hike. This is a true hidden gem almost nobody knows about. Yet, it offers some of the most beautiful views in Landmannalaugar with almost no co-hikers! The hiking trail is official and is no secret, and despite this fact, typically only locals hike Grænihryggur, the green ridge.
To hike Grænihryggur you need a full day and preferably no rain and no strong wind. Some parts of the Grænihryggur hiking trail are a bit steep and slippery. It is a one-way there and same-way back hike. Nevertheless, the surrounding landscapes are more than just worth being seen twice! We recently wrote a brand new detailed guide to the Grænihryggur hike. Hope it helps you plan your trip!
5. Laugahraun
View from the top of Brennisteinsalda towards Laugahraun
Distance from the car park: 5/10 minutes (to the start of the trail, from camping/car park in front of the camping) Hiking time: 15-20 minutes (one-way) Worth visiting in bad weather: yes Difficulty: easy
Laugahraun is a lava field with interesting rock formations formed from volcanic lava eruptions. It takes some 30-40 minutes to hike it from the campsite and it stands halfway to Brennisteinsalda mountain. It’s a nice place to see but it was not that amazing for us compared to other sights like the peaks of Bláhnúkur or Brennisteinsalda.
6. Ljótipollur
Ljótipollur
Distance from the car park: right next to it Hiking time: 10 minutes (one-way) Worth visiting in bad weather: yes Difficulty: easy
Ljótipollur is a red crater lake with amazingly colored water situated in the moon-like highlands of Landmannalaugar. It’s a nice and short stop close to the campsite. Unfortunately, the place has become pretty popular recently, because it’s very easily accessible and doesn’t require a huge jeep or a long hike to reach. We wrote in detail about our visit to Ljótipollur.
There’s a short F-road leading to Ljótipollur, suitable for almost any 4wd car. At the end of the road, there’s a little black-ash car park. From the car park, it takes just about 5-10 minutes of uphill walking to reach some of the best viewpoints of Ljótipollur. It’s possible to hike even further around the area, but most of the visitors turn back after seeing the crater from above.
7. Hnausapollur
Hnausapollur, or Bláhylur volcano lake in Landmannalaugar
Distance from the car park: right next to it Hiking time: 1 minute Worth visiting in bad weather: yes Difficulty: easy
Hnausapollur, or Bláhylur, is another crater lake that looks like from another planet. It is located right next to road 208 north of Landmannalaugar. It’s possible to drive and park your car right at the edge of the Hnausapollur crater lake. You can then either admire the lake from the viewpoint next to the car park, or the more adventurous souls may take a long walk around the crater. It is almost guaranteed you will be alone throughout your walk. This can’t be said about the main car park, though, where even tour buses stop.
8. Stútur
Stútur volcano hike to the left
Distance from the car park: right next to it Hiking time: 10 minutes (one-way) Worth visiting in bad weather: yes Difficulty: easy to moderate
What about hiking a little volcano in 10 minutes? Well, go and hike Stútur then! Stútur is a little old volcano covered by moss, located just a short drive north of Landmannalaugar. There’s a tiny car park with a place for 2-3 cars and a little sign indicating a hiking area. All-in-all, the Stútur hike is nicely hidden from the crowds. Even we didn’t spot it when we visited Landmannalaugar for the first time.
It takes just a short uphill hike to reach the top of the Stútur volcano. Once at the top, you can admire both the 360° views of the area around and also the inner part of the volcano. This is an easy hike that even a family should be able to do. The same can be said about the harsher weather – Stútur can be typically visited even if the weather isn’t ideal.
9. Hrafntinnusker
Hrafntinnusker hut in the heart of the highlands
Distance from the car park: 5-10 minutes from the campsite/car park Hiking time: 4 hours (one-way) Worth visiting in bad weather: no Difficulty: moderate to difficult Hiking trail: Hrafntinnusker hiking trail
Hrafntinnusker is a geothermal area close to Landmannalaugar with an ice cave, a mountain hut, and a lot of hiking trails everywhere around. The only catch is, Hrafntinnusker is a very hard-to-access place. One of the options is to grab a super jeep and drive there. Yes, you need a super jeep to reach Hrafntinnusker even in summer. Don’t even think about winter! Impossible!
The other option is to get to Hrafntinnusker by hiking. Hrafntinnusker is actually a part of the famous Laugavegur trek (see below). The shortest hiking trail to Hrafntinnusker starts at Landmannalaugar campsite and takes about 4 hours (one way) to complete. Once there, you will be rewarded with one of the most remote and highest-altitude corners of Iceland.
Distance from the car park: 5-10 minutes from the campsite/car park Hiking time: 3-7 days (one-way, depends if you include also connecting Fimmvorduhals hike) Worth visiting in bad weather: no Difficulty: difficult Hiking trail: Laugavegur hiking trail
The most epic hike in Iceland is the Laugavegur hike, many would say. The Laugavegur trail typically takes about 4 days to complete. Hikers spend their nights at the mountain huts or at the campsites located right next to the huts. The hike is difficult mainly due to the length and unpredictable weather, but the trail is doable for anyone who is fit and used to hiking.
Laugavegur hike is the most legendary hike in Iceland and even many Icelanders are still taking it every year over and over. During the 4 days of hiking Laugavegur, you will be guaranteed to see the best Iceland has to offer. Little volcanoes, out-of-this-world canyons, magnificent valleys, adventurous river crossings, snow spots even in summer, waterfalls, and hot springs. This is just a very short glimpse of all the spectacular things you will see along the Laugavegur trek.
Hiking the Brennisteinsalda Bláhnúkur loop
We had only 1 day in Landmannalaugar, so we decided to go for the best 1-day hike in Landmannalaugar, the Brennisteinsalda-Laugahraun-Bláhnúkur loop. We first climbed the orange mountain, or Brennisteinsalda, coming from the campsite. Then we turned back towards Bláhnúkur and traversed across the Laugahraun lava field to the blue peak of Bláhnúkur.
Brennisteinsalda hike
This is how the start of the hiking trail toward Brennisteinsalda looks like
Hike for Brennisteinsalda volcano is quite easy and takes around 1,5 hours round trip. If you either don’t have much time or weather is worsening or you simply aren’t into hiking that much, you can definitely make Brennisteinsalda hike. The trail to the top and the view from the top itself is definitely worth it. We experienced it in slightly foggy weather and it was still beautiful.
You start at the main building of Landmannalaugar/Brennisteinsalda campsite where there are red signs pointing to two opposite directions. When coming from the river crossings facing the campsite, the one pointing left is the one for Bláhnjúkur and the one pointing right is the one for Laugahraun lava field and Brennisteinsalda.
Views from the Brennisteinsalda hike
The other way how to orientate yourself is simply to go in the direction of the mountain (you can see it throughout almost the entire trail) and use common sense. Although the trail is well marked, the signs are not very helpful because they contain just the name of the entire trail and they don’t point specifically to Brennisteinsalda. It’s important to stick to the marked trail to not destroy Icelandic untouched nature and not get yourself fined heavily.
Your first checkpoint would be crossroads with the Laugahraun lava field where you will continue to the upper right, i.e. above the field. Then you will eventually arrive at another crossroad just below Brennisteinsalda where you should turn right, to face the only little steeper part of the hike right towards the peak. Once you reach the peak, you can enjoy 360° views of surrounding landscapes, Laugahraun field from a bird-eye view, and also majestic Bláhnjúkur peak nearby.
View from the top of Brennisteinsalda on a slightly foggy day. Still very windy at the top, despite a calm day.
There was no wind below Brennisteinsalda at the time of our visit, but at the peak, the wind was blowing like crazy. So be prepared for this. After Brennisteinsalda you may either come back to the campsite or continue for the Bláhnúkur peak – as we did. If you have enough energy and the weather is alright I definitely do recommend going for Bláhnúkur as well because the views surrounding that route are even more amazing.
Laugahraun hike
Easy Laugahraun hiking trail
We didn’t go particularly for the Laugahraun hike, but we stumbled upon it on our way back from Brennisteinsalda peak and on our path further towards Bláhnúkur mountain. Laugahraun is a nice and easy family walk through the old black lava field. Coming from Brennisteinsalda, if you leave the Laugahraun field at its top-right part, you will find yourself at the beginning of the trail for Bláhnúkur, the Blue peak.
Bláhnúkur hike
Slippery clay slope at the start of the hike to Bláhnjúkur or Blue peak
For us hike to the Bláhnúkur, or the Blue peak was the most beautiful, the most rewarding, and the most difficult part of our one-day visit to Landmannalaugar. We had to find the beginning of the trail, we had to ford the small river, we had to climb the steep muddy hill and then we had to cope with a strong cold wind at the top.
All of these were definitely worth the experience. Views encompassing the route are amazing if you are lucky with the good weather and the view from the peak is even more breathtaking. So how do you reach Bláhnjúkur?
You have three options on how to reach the top (including the circular round trip we did, starting with Brennisteinsalda and continuing to Bláhnúkur or vice versa). Arriving from river crossings before Landmannalaugar you may either:
turn left and go directly for Bláhnúkur or
you may turn right, reach the Laugahraun lava field first and then continue for the Bláhnúkur hike or
of course, you may choose the order we chose, i.e. after reaching Laugahraun continuing for Brennisteinsalda peak, then coming back to Laugahraun, and then going for Bláhnjúkur.
I recommend the way we did it, i.e. the circular route so that you can see everything.
Spectacular views right from the beginning of the hike on Bláhnjúkur and even on the slightly foggy day
After you leave the upper right part of Laugahraun field (coming from Brennisteinsalda trail), you will arrive at the small river. Despite the river being small, there’s no bridge or designated place where the river should be crossed. We spent almost 30 minutes searching for a spot where to cross the river to not get our feet wet in this cold weather. And up to this day, I don’t know where was the “official” spot meant for this Landmannalaugar river to be crossed.
What we finally did was go almost 10 minutes to the right along the bank of the river coming to the place where the river was shallow enough with enough pebbles to jump on and pass. Then we had to come these 10 minutes on the other side of the river back again to reach the yellow marks marking the trail towards Bláhnjúkur. So, after 30 minutes of struggle, we managed to ford the river without getting wet, although I’m not sure whether this was the way meant for crossing. Probably no.
Bláhnjúkur hike near the top
Afterward, for us, the most dangerous part followed. The trail is well-marked with yellow sticks so you shouldn’t get lost. You will shortly arrive at the steep clay slope going up closer to Bláhnúkur. The ascent is not hard or anything, but it’s quite steep and you don’t have a good grip on the ground because of the clay. So with each step, you feel like slipping on the smooth clay. I was equipped with high-quality La Sportiva hiking shoes and those didn’t help either.
There are neither stairs nor chains so you can only help yourself by going slowly zig-zag to the top. Fortunately, this part is not too long and takes some 10 minutes to complete. What follows next is just a typical gravel hiking trail and you shouldn’t have any problems continuing up the trail. Magnificent views will shortly emerge and will accompany you all the way to the top.
One of the views from the peak of Bláhnjúkur towards Landmannalaugar and 2nd (steeper) hiking trail
We had a semi-clear sky with partially sunny, partially cloudy weather, and light fog. This is still supposed to be good weather so we enjoyed every moment of it. Visibility (although not perfect) was fine and the views were, as I already mentioned, breathtaking. We met just a single-digit number of visitors at the peak, so at the time of our visit, the peak being crowdy wasn’t an issue.
It was really windy and the temperature felt like 5°C even on a sunny summer day like ours, so be prepared for that. Once reaching the top, you will be rewarded with the best views over the area.
Another view from the peak of Bláhnjúkur towards Landmannalaugar camp, Laugahraun, and 2nd (steeper) hiking trail
The way back
We started our descent from the other side of the mountain (the one where you may access Bláhnjúkur right from the campsite), which was supposed to be much steeper, according to guides I’ve read. That definitely wasn’t true and compared to the steep clay part we had to overcome before, this was a piece of cake. I wonder what’s worse – to ascent the clay part or descent? I guess descent would be worse. The path continued without any obstacles until we reached the point where we could see the small river we’d forded before from above.
At this point we’d also seen the campsite from above already, so we continued pursuing that direction. The entire descent wasn’t hard and it took us some 1 hour at maximum to reach our campsite again. We went for a hot chocolate at the nearby snack bar, ate a little, and it was still only before 3 pm so we had enough time to continue with our journey.
Landmannalaugar hot spring
Landmannalaugar hot spring
The hot spring in Landmannalaugar is one of the most popular wild hot springs in Iceland. Landmannalaugar hot spring is located next to the Landmannalaugar campsite and it takes about 5 minutes of walking to reach it. The hot spring is quite big and it forms sort of a hot river.
There are two little caveats, though. The first one is, the Landmannalaugar hot spring is quite shallow, just around 50cm / 1.5 feet. The second catch is, the temperature varies considerably around the hot spring. There are parts, where the water is actually cold (close to the clothes-changing deck), and parts where it’s very warm (next to the spring itself). This means all the people try to come as close to the little spring as possible.
There’s a wooden clothes-changing deck, where you may leave your clothes. It is uncovered, hence, if it rains, be sure to use a rain cover for your clothes. Landmannalaugar hot spring is free of charge and it’s a great way to relax after a long day full of hiking. It is not our favorite hot spring, we think there are many other, much greater hot springs. Anyway, it’s definitely nice, unique, and worth trying.
Landmannalaugar campsite
Landmannalaugar Brennisteinsalda campsite on a summer evening
Landmannalaugar campsite is one of the most beautiful campsites in Iceland. It sits right in the middle of the colorful rhyolite rainbow mountains of Landmannalaugar. On a nice day, even the pictures of the tents at the campsite are lovely. The camping costs 2500 ISK per person (as of summer 2023).
Many come to the Landmannalaugar unprepared for the weather. The campsite is located in the heart of the Icelandic highlands and especially the night temperatures even in summer may reach freezing. Not to mention, if a strong wind and/or rain arrives, the fun begins (hint: irony; the campsite is very uncomfortable in bad weather). Keep track of the weather forecast closely!
There are also mountain huts at the Landmannalaugar campsite, where you may spend the night under the shelter. It is highly recommended to book them in advance due to the huge demand in summer. They are of course much more expensive (11 000 ISK per person as of summer 2023).
Weather, Roads, and Trail conditions
Below are the useful links for Icelandic weather forecast, road conditions, trail conditions and many more:
Do you have to cross the river to get to Landmannalaugar?
Yes, you need to cross the river right before the Landmannalaugar campsite. However, you don’t have to cross the river in your car. You can leave your car at the car park before the river crossing and use the footbridge to walk the last 10 minutes to reach the campsite. To cross the river, it is recommended to drive at least a medium-sized 4wd car.
Below is a video of how NOT to cross the Landmannalaugar river in your car:
What is the easiest road to Landmannalaugar?
The easiest road to Landmannalaugar is the northern route. First, you have to drive the paved road 26, then the unpaved road 208, and finally the gravel road F224. There are no river crossings on this route, but it’s bumpy and rather boring. The only river crossing is located right before the Landmannalaugar campsite and you may leave your car in front of it.
What is the most beautiful road to Landmannalaugar?
The most beautiful road to Landmannalaugar is called Fjallabaksleið Nyrðri. It is an F-road leading to Landmannalaugar from the south. The other name of the road is F208. The landscapes around the road are amazingly beautiful and unique. Southern road F208 is also the most difficult way to reach Landmannalaugar. There are several medium-sized rivers that need to be crossed. You need to drive a medium-sized 4wd car or bigger to safely pass this road.
What are the best hiking trails in Landmannalaugar?
This list is of course highly subjective, but the hikes above are otherworldly beautiful and there is no doubt they belong to the most beautiful hikes in Iceland.
Grænihryggur hike
What is the easiest hike in Landmannalaugar?
The easiest hike in Landmannalaugar is the short walk around the Laugahraun lava field. It takes only around 30-40 minutes to complete it. One of the easiest and also the most beautiful hikes in Landmannalaugar is the Brennisteinsalda hike. Brennisteinsalda is the orange mountain and the views from the top of it are picturesque. It takes about 1-hour (one way) to complete the hike.
Besides the two hikes mentioned above, there are also many easy and short hiking stops around Landmannalaugar. They involve almost no hiking because you just get out of your car and walk anywhere between 1 minute to 10 minutes to reach your destinations. These include the Stútur volcano, the Ljótipollur crater lake, and the Hnausapollur crater lake.
I arrive by bus, will I have enough time?
You will have around 4 to 6 hours to explore the area if you want to come back the same day. This is enough time to complete only one hike of your choice, like Bláhnúkur or Brennisteinsalda, but no more. If you want to come and leave by bus on the same day, you will definitely be in the rush. It is advised to spend a night and come back by bus the next day.
How much time do you need for Landmannalaugar?
If you want to fully enjoy Landmannalaugar you need to spend there at least one full day. Avid hikers will not make a mistake by devoting 2 or more days to Landmannalaugar. There are enough beautiful hiking trails to fill your schedule. But to have a good overview of Landmannalaugar, one day with nice weather is usually enough.
About Us Dear Iceland lovers! We are Igor, Katka (+family), and love Iceland with all our hearts. We've spent 3000+ hours hiking, driving, and studying Iceland. Highlands, F-roads, epic Hikes, and wild Hot Springs are our favorites. We share everything we know about Iceland on this blog. Read our references.